20 Best Wood Rot Repair Products (2023 Updated)

Can be molded into nearly any shape. Once it has cured it is a permanent repair- it will easily outlast any wood. Be sure all the surrounding wood that might be rotting is all gone, or you will have to get it out later.

but the original repair with this product will be fine and never rot. Can be sanded just like wood, after it has completely cured. I have used it on 10+ different repair jobs (window sills etc) , over 3-5 years and no issues or failures have occurred.

I do think it is a little expensive, but it is convenient and simple. For whatever reason, none of the major hardware chains carry it, in stock, so you will probably have to order it online – so you will have to plan ahead.

Really works!! Easy to apply and corrected wood rot on my wood windows/shutters. Dries hard and looks like real wood. Saved a lot of money versus replacing wood windows and/or getting expensesive repairs from window companies.

Anyone can use this product w/o any experience.

Made repairs to a rotted wood door frame. Both sides of the frame needed repair due to the installer failing to seal the the bottom so it soaked up water. This stuff hard as a rock when it cures and can be shaped to match the profile of the frame.

After it cures it can be sanded and after some you dont even notice the patches.

Forgot to include #sweepstakes in my review. Excellent adhesion, goes on smoothly, working time of 10 minutes is predictable. Cures fully in one hour and sands like real hardwood.

This product is very effective for repairing damaged core wood in fiberglass boats. It is very thin after its mixed and seeps deep into voids and into damaged wood. Its a permanent repair that saved me thousands of dollars over the cost of cutting out and replacing damaged balsa wood.

Only a 1/4 hole was required near each soft spot to apply the product. Sometimes, a second 1/4 hole to release air helped the application. It usually sets up quickly, but on a cool wet day an application took several hours to harden.

The deck seems stronger than it was with the original wood core. Very happy here!.

I had a soft spot in the floor of one of my RV storage compartments. I followed the directions and drilled shallow holes on a staggered basis, took my my time applying and let the epoxy cure. After curing 5 days it’s as if there was never a problem.

Will definitely buy again for other projects.

I’ve been using GitRot for over 20 years to help repair rot damaged wood. It’s basically a low viscosity, slow curing epoxy that penetrates deeply into damaged wood before curing. It can often repair dry rotted wood without removing it – a real time and money saver.

I utilized the products to repair three wooden columns on my front porch that had rotted near their bases. I paid about $140 with tax for the kits so it is expensive but a fraction of the cost of replacement columns.

Just the column costs with bases and caps were 1400 without any demo or installation costs. The wood e pox product was easy to apply, shape, and sand. I recommend it for these types of repairs.

I have a house that is over 100 years old. In the process of painting, we found some dry rot and some water-related damage. Used both LiquidWood and WoodEpox to harden the wood and fill in rotted areas.

It was very easy to use and did a great job patching. Took a little while to set up but the weather was on the cool side and the damage was not very deep. Ironically, the more volume you use, the faster it cures.

Could sand, nail and paint in 2. 5 days. Excellent product.

I use this stuff exclusively for vintage window repairs. It doesn’t take stain amazingly but as a wood filler it can’t be beat.

I have recently had work carried out on the rendering to my sandstone cottage. During the work I discovered some rotten wood. I searched the internet for a good product. Abatron came up as by best choice.

Although expensive I ordered the 24 oz kit, the instructions were easy to follow. I have carried out the repairs myself, and am very satisfied with the results.

excellent product. really works, and after a couple of days of curing can be drilled, cut, painted, etc – just like wood. if you’re not careful, can be a little messy. when mixing the Wood Epox, suggest you use your hands to knead the two parts together.

make sure you have equal parts of the A and B components. went cheap throw away gloves when working with the product.

I used your product Rotfix and also SculpWood to repair dry rot in a deck door. After removing as much of the dry rot as I could I applied the Rotfix. It hardened and stabilized the remaining wood very well.

I used the SculpWood to fill the resulting void. Unfortunately, I ended up a little shy in one place and had to build it up. I tried more SculpWood but found it did not adhere to itself as well as I would have liked.

Had to fuss with it a bit. In the end I would caution others to be sure to overfill the material so they don’t have to fill in a little to get the patch level. Other than that the two materials did a great job for me.

I would certainly recommend them and add that though it was expensive it was well worth it.

It’s tricky to figure out how much to mix, so my first time, I mixed way too much; I poured the leftover mix into some kitty litter for disposal. WOW When it had solidified in the litter, it seemed stronger than wood.

I think this will fix my rotted spots on my porch extremely well. Do use this before applying SculpWood – another terrific companion product. SculpWood is waterproof and sculpts and sands like a dream.

The repairs I made to my porch posts are INVISIBLE, thanks to these products. I even rebuilt the bottom of a baluster with it.

Great way to permanently repair exterior wood trim, posts and beams that would be expensive to replace with new. I have repaired 12 full dimension 6″x6″ approximately 20′ long posts and beams associated with them that support a high deck and roof structure.

They had severe weather damage and I had repaired them with Bondo in the past but it did not last more than a year before it started to squeeze out of the weather cracks. I repaired half of the posts and beams using Abatron a year and a half ago and the wood remains in perfect condition.

I am now about finished repairing the remaining beams. I also have found Abatron to be the perfect repair for cracks in my cedar siding. I am very impressed with this product and highly recommend it.

When MyBondo repair failed I contacted technical support at Bondo and the rep told me he hated to recommend a competetors product but for my repairs Abatron would be his choice. The tough part was removing all of the old filler.

I also used liquid wood everywhere that I used the Wood Epoxy to make certain that I got the best repair possible.

I have started to use this to repair the edges of a plywood deck that was originally sheathed with fibreglass cloth and resin. Unfortunately during the last 40 years someone used a sander nearby and rubbed the fibreglass away leaving the bare plywood.

I have used the Albaton Wood epoxy as it is advertised that it wont shrink to seal the raw edges and in some places gaps in the plywood. One can use it in temperatures down to 10F. The first application (3 days ago) had to be “encouraged” to start hardening by using a hot air gun.

Yesterday it had hardened enough to let me sand it down. I then applied a second coat in parts. Again because the temperature was just above 10F I had to use the hot air gun to get the hardening process going.

I am not sure if I was sold “old” stock as the Part A material (white) was quite dry only once I started mixing the (Beige) B material did I get a putty like mix that could be shaped. Heat certainly helps when mixing and when filling cracks.

I have just checked the second application and it has finally set hard. I have not rated this product Excellent Quality as I did find it quite hard to use. Compared to Poly cell its expensive ! thus the lower score.

I purchased this product because, when compared to other so-called “wood restorers”, (A) the two parts are easier to mix together; (B) it’s FAR easier to use a small spatula to apply the mixed product; and (C) it definitely has a higher “tackiness” or “stickiness” than others I’ve used.

In other words, there’s less waste. But, be advised: I live in the west, where summers are dry and hot. Beware of using P. C. Woody in the heat of a summer’s day, because it will harden in a fourth of the time the product information says it will! Mix ONLY the amount you can apply.

and cut that by a fourth if you use it in hot summer sun. That “quick-hardening” in sunlight is the reason I gave it 4 stars instead of 5.

As someone who is pretty handy and always working on home projects I discovered this product several years ago and have used it quite often for wood repair. Upside – once dry it is a hard and permanent wood repair patch.

Far stronger than any other wood repair product I have tried. Downside – it’s pricy for the amount you get compared to products like Bondo, fix-all, wood putty, etc. so if you have a large repair good luck.

It needs to dry and cure fully for about 24 hours ( depending upon temperature) before sanding. If you sand too soon you’ll have a mess. Trying to stain it to match surrounding wood is difficult at best.

I almost always use it where it’s going to be painted.

A bit hard to handle when still wet, but really strong and it blends with my pine logs really well. I also tried a competing product but it dried with an odd reddish color that was ok for painting afterward but no good for staining.

This product took stain just like the new pine replacement log I installed. But didn’t quite stain as darkly as the old logs I stripped (the ones that actually needed repairing). Nonetheless it’s still a fairly good match and blends in well when all said and done.

Excellent product!.

Although not a marine project i had an undesirable project of replacing a window sill that had much dry rot in it. The git rot completely stabilized the damaged portion until it was harder than the original wood.

I used another product to build up the area that were lost to dry rot and you now cannot tell there was ever any damage. This saved me much time and money from replacement of the entire sill. Great product and very easy to use with the measured mixing bottle that came with the kit.

I live in Utah and we get a lot of snow on our front deck. The bottom of the door starter to rot out. I used a die grinder and burr to remove rot that I could see (2″×3″×1″). Following directions I drilled 1/4″ holes up through the base of the door.

I could tell when I had reached good wood when the drill met with resistance. These were a lot deeper than I initial thought they would be. 23 holes ~3. 5″ deep. I mixed git-rot as instructed and filled the holes repeatily adding more when they needed more.

I swished some around the open cavity. The extent of the repair will require another order. The capillary action of the wood really drank up the liquid epoxy.

As always safety first. Read the instructions before use and Wear gloves. This product is very strong smelling and needs ventilation. Moving on to opening it. I strongly suggest that you have a pair of pliers handy if you do not have upper body strength.

This product is liquid and it is best to protect surroundings surfaces. Depending on the thickness of the wood needing repaired at minimum it is going to take 4-6 hours to see any results. This product was applied over the wood filler to ensure a good seal and several coats were applied because the final step of the project was to stain the table.

While it states you can use a brush I preferred a sponge brush to not leave streaks. End result no water marks and the table looks as good as new.

I have tried several varieties of wood hardener, including a couple of the water-based brands. They works best for hardening wood softened by weathering. It’s sticky and runny, but absorbs well into the wood.

Make sure you have enough, it is crazy how much of this pulpy wood will absorb. My property is seventy years old and has custom doors, some of which have been ignored for decades. The hand-cut textures are appealing, and I hated to lose them.

Instead, I saturated the doors with this, filled the worst damage with indoor/outdoor wood repair, and painted them. Voila! Kept the rustic, but added protection.

Worked perfectly. Had a older hammer with wooden handle severely weathered from being left outside,thought it was beyond recovery with linseed oil. Treated with multiple applications of Minwax wood hardener and brought it back to life.

Now feels as solid as new. It absorbs immediately and resin like product hardens from within. Zero build or loss of detail, and paintable. Buy more than you think you need, wood soaks up more than you think it would.

Easy to mix and apply, hardens nicely. Easy to sand and stain, though of course it won’t be an exact match to wood but makes a good patch for some larger cracks in my deck. Time will tell if it’s better than last wood filler I used which tended to shrink and crack over the winter.

We’ll see how this one fares outside over the course of a year but so far so good.

I used this to repair/rebuild part of a chest-of-drawers leg and bottom of a side panel that had suffered dog urine damage. After removing the damaged wood, I used some PC Products Wood Petrifier to seal the wood.

Then I used PC Woody Wood Repair Epoxy Paste according to the included instructions. When cured, I sanded the new “wood” to shape, then applied staining and clear sealer. My husband was going to throw this nice piece of furniture away, but now he is impressed with the repair.

Bonus: no strong odors or fumes during or after use.

Watch any of the several videos out on how to use this product and then go to work. I used it to fix a partial rotted door jamb on my front entry. I works exactly as shown in the videos. I kneaded equal parts in my hands (wearing gloves–although some say you can do it bare handed) ending up with what felt like a light weight Play Dough.

I pressed the “dough” into the cleaned out rotted areas. It seemed too light to do the work, but after drying, this stuff is hard and structurally sound. It sands easily and smoothly and after painting you would never know it’s not the original wood surrounding the door.

Couldn’t be easier to use. I’m an older lady, with minimal “handy person” experience, and I had no problems fixing my door entryway. I highly recommend this product.

This works great It makes a very strong replacement for any wood fixes a I find it to be in most cases stronger than the wood I am replacing. I like that it’s not messy and very easy to use. You do have to knead it to the point at which is is one uniform color or you will be disappointed.

A few notes: if using your bare hands, it does tend to want to stick to your fingers when filling holes. Moistening your fingers slightly will solve this. It does have a very unique smell (to me kind of a cross between tuna and a skunk), but not much worse than other epoxys I’ve used.

and finally, getting it out of the container is a pain. Sometimes this takes longer than the actual repair job. I just tap it upside down on my desk a few times, and eventually it will give. If anyone else has tips for removing it, I’d love to hear them Overall a great product.

Very short working time and the putty was very course. All I needed to do was fill some countersinks in plywood but this putty was difficult to work with. I should have just used ordinary wood putty.

Easy to pull off only the amount needed. Stuck well and cured quickly. Sanded to a nice smooth finish without being gritty, no problems taking paint. Was difficult to lay down thinly.

I followed all the directions,suggestions and tips but found that when the penetrating epoxy had cured, i washed it, dried it, sanded with 320 in preparation for varnish,,, The epoxy left my piece splotchy (for lack of a better description).

This was used on red mahogany. The 1st piece (of 2 pieces) of this project i used only varnish, 5 coats ,sanding lightly in between, and it turned out to a very fine finish, no clouds or splotchy patches, practically perfect.

I decided for the 2nd piece I was going for a more weather resistant finish when I decided to use the penetrating epoxy step prior to varnish on the 2nd piece. Just using the epoxy and no varnish left me with a final finish that was too glassy and less than smooth.

When I tried sanding that. it left me with the cloudiness and splotchiness. It’s possible i did not do this correctly,,,but having followed all the instructions provided, which I read numerous times, I fail to see what I missed.

I’m at a loss in my attempt to add the epoxy prior to varnishing.

The package just arrived, so I haven’t even used the product yet. I’m sure it will do exactly what it’s advertised to do. This 5 star review is more about Jamestown Distributors. This is the first time I ordered from them.

I called on the phone. The person that helped me answered my questions and gave some pointers. He was very patient. He explained when the product would get shipped (the next day since it was already late that same day) and when the product would arrive.

All that worked great. What really exceeded my expectations was the mixing sticks and mixing cups that were a very pleasant surprise. On the phone I mentioned that I would have to find a way to mix this product in the right ratio.

The person must have remembered that and included the extra items to help me. (Or else they include these for everyone. ) Either way, it was very thoughtful and greatly appreciated. Thank you!.

I am restoring a 1954 Glen L. Witt outboard runabout. All wood construction. The deck is plywood and I took it down to bare wood. Then I used penetrating epoxy (thinned 50/50 with acetone) to firm up and prepare for varnish.

The thinned epoxy penetrated deep into the plywood and the whole structure feels much stronger. I have now put on two coats of varnish (at least one more to come) and it looks fabulous.

Used it to fill a small void in an oar blade which will be covered in Dynel. Like other reviewers, I was dubious about the crumbly texture of the Resin. It mixed up fine though. Instructions indicated “by hand”, which I came to understand was meant literally.

Via gloved fingers and palms kneading the two equal parts together was child’s play. The mix molded easily and equally easy to apply over the epoxy penetrated wood. Will be curious to ascertain its shelf life.

I am restoring an old 1960’s Starcraft and needed to do a small amount of wood replacement on the transom. Not wanted to do a full transom redo I looked to this product for help. Mixing is quick and easy.

Kind of mixes like dough. Hardened in just 6 hours and sanding was like butter. Recommend.

I like how the container was designed to keep the wood hardener packet in the plastic lid. Now I will be able to find the hardener when I need it for the next project. I used this wood filler to fix small chips, holes, and dents in wood cabinets, trim and doors.

I have used other wood filler products but this one was much better. The filler works quickly and stays in place easily. I was surprised at how quickly it hardens so next time I will use a little product and then mix more for each chip that I need to fix.

And I wasn’t able to get off the excess product as it hardens quickly. So I will need to sand it off before I paint. Also recommend keeping container outside as the fumes are very strong.

I own a handyman business and was actually looking on the site to get a spec on how cold the temp can be to use this on an exterior door jam repair. I saw some bad reviews and decided to do one myself.

I have had great success with this product in numerous situations. If you don’t mix it right, it will not work. I had to get used to it and once I did, it has been a life saver for many of my customers.

I even used it to repair brick that had a light base screwed into it that spawled and broke the brick. I used a hearty serving if Minwax HP wood filler and let it dry overnight. I was able to drill and screw new screws into it and it still is solid 4 years later.

Love it! Again, please advise on cold temp usage for exterior door jam repair. Thanks!.

First – I have probably used over 20 cans of this product over the past two years – so I know it well. I had to restore 4×10 redwood structural beams under a deck that had been damaged by over 50 years of water running down the sides.

After thoroughly removing the damaged wood and then applying an epoxy sealer to the wood fibers, I used the wood filler with a putty knife. I then used a powerful orbital sander to smooth the surface before staining with two coats of solid color stain.

I could not be more pleased with the results. Yes – I have made some mistakes but learned from them. First you do not need a lot of hardener – I have never run out of hardener. In fact, when I used too much hardener, the working time was much too short.

The working time is short to begin with, so you need to have a plan and work fast. The warmer the weather, the shorter the working time. The beauty of the product is that in the first few minutes, it is very soft and can be easily applied into small cracks and crevices – but you need to work fast.

It also sands well and takes solid stain well – but you do need to use at least two coats to cover the filler well.

Over the course of many years I have periodically used the plastic wood with good results. Given that has been some time, I read the directions and found the “helpful “ admonishment to mix 16:1. How, pray tell, does one do such a measure? I seem to recall in the past to start with a golf ball size and add harding agent about an inch long, to assure time to apply but then have a hardened outcome.

I used this past guidance, rather it cal from an “old timer” or previous directions and it seems to be good. Can Minwax not find a way to incorporate this info into the directions? Come on man (Joe Biden quote), give it a try!.

This product seems to sit on the surface and form a rubbery film (like Elmer’s glue) rather than penetrating into the wood. Also, it foamed up as I applied it and all the bubbles stayed on the surface and dried that way.

NOt too attractive. I much prefer to use the non-milky type of wood hardener like the one Minwax makes. I cannot speak to the durability of this product, but I have 2 treated items that will be exposed to the elements for the next year: one with the Minwax wood hardener and one with this product.

Next year at this time, I will know which product is the better one to use long-term. Until then, Minwax gets my vote.

Coated some framing timber wood I filed the rot off after a long time shower plumbing leak – many years – had done a fair bit of damage. After first drying, sanding, filing and gouging and treating with Metalex I put the JB Weld on the worst bits.

Lovely solid coating of dried epoxy was the result. Brilliant.

I am restoring some antique dining chairs and the wood itself although not rotten in any way definitely needed strengthening in some places. This did the job really well.

I have purchased three cans of this from Lowes to repair exterior wood. The first two cans, I could not open for the same reasons described in the other reviews. I took them back and the worker in the paint section also could not open them.

He said he gets the same complaints from other customers. After trying two other cans, there was one he could open. We then found another one that he could open. I took both of those but did not tighten the lids back because I wanted to use them when I got home.

The wood really soaks this up on the first application. Several are needed. After using the first can, I used part of the second and then tightened the cap back. When I went to use it again, I was unable to open the partially used second can for the same reasons other reviewers have cited.

It would be helpful if they make a larger container for larger jobs. But the most important thing is FIX THE CAP!!!.