20 Best Water Pump Stop Leak (2023 Updated)

I couldn’t find where i was loosing antifreeze. No drip or spots under my truck. Must be internal. I bought the bars leak l have used before and it worked. I just had the thermostat and the housing changed a few months beforehand.

Now its working great.

It stops the leak, but it also clogs the overflow hole and hose at the cap. I noticed the upper radiator hose was collapsed after driving and letting it cool a bit. Upon removing the cap, air went back in the system and upper hose expanded to normal – which is when I noticed the material from the product clogging the overflow hole and tip of the overflow hose.

I removed the clog once, but after driving just 2-3 miles, it clogged the overflow hole again. Ended up ordering a new radiator, since this is a temporary fix anyway. Just be aware that this might happen and overheat the engine, especially if you have too much fluid or it’s overflowing at all.

FYI, my fluid is at the max line and this is a Chrysler under 10 years old, and the overflow hole is about a quarter inch in diameter.

I have a coolant leak in my 2002 VW New Beetle. I know it needs to go to the shop, but I was 120 miles away from home when the problem developed. In what I considered to be an emergency situation, I added half a bottle, as per the instructions.

In fact, I would say that the coolant leak decreased by 80% or more! Got me in, and was considerably less that the cost of a tow. Going to the shop for sure, ASAP.

I went into this thinking it wouldn’t work at all and possibly cause other problems. Minor head gasket leak that was getting into the combustion chamber and blowing out the exhaust, but not getting into the oil.

I would watch a small bubble rise into the overflow tank once every couple seconds, and over the course of 100 miles or so would be putting in a half gallon of coolant. Since it was fighting against the compression I doubted it would be able to work its way into the hole and plug it up.

I followed the “less is more” method that others on here had good results with. I drove the car to work to get the coolant up to temperature so the thermostat would be open and ready to cycle coolant.

Got to work early and poured roughly 4 or 5 ounces of what looks like robot vomit into the overflow tank, turned the heater on full blast, and let it idle for about 30 minutes with the cap off the overflow tank.

I watched the typical bubbles come up into the tank every time the cooling fan would kick on, but noticed they stopped appearing on the last couple cycles. 9 hours later drove the car home as usual and checked again when I got home, no bubbles and coolant had remained at the level I left it at.

I’ve been driving it for a couple weeks now and have even gotten on it fairly hard and haven’t lost a drop of coolant yet. I’m actually in shock. We’ll see how long it holds up, and if it blows I still have 11 or 12 more ounces to try hitting it with again.

If I get a few months out of it I’ll be happy. Please note that if you have a head gasket leak on a car you really want to keep, do not use this. Bite the bullet and get it repaired properly. On the other hand, if you have a 32 year old car that you didn’t spend much on and are just using as a beater, it’s definitely worth a shot.

I took my 2010 Land Rover to a mechanic because it was leaking coolant. The exhaust was sweet-smelling and there was no coolant dripping from anywhere in the engine bay. I suspected a leaky or blown head gasket.

I let the car sit for 3 or 4 days and upon start up there was a big puff of white smoke and I got the check engine light. Cylinders 4 and 6 had misfired upon start up. I took it to a mechanic to get it checked out and he confirmed a head gasket leak with an estimated cost of repair approaching $10k.

I decided to look for a cheaper alternative to at least postpone having to spend so much money on a repair on a car I had just purchased (used with 110,000 miles) and I found K-Seal. I read another reviewer who suggested not putting in the recommended amount, but just a few ounces, which is what I did.

I put in between 2 and 3 ounces into the coolant reservoir and followed the instructions. The car has a 5 liter V8, which is small compared to the engines K-Seal is designed for, so that made sense to me.

I took the car to another mechanic to get a second opinion about the head gasket after putting in K-Seal. I told him I had put a gasket sealer into the car and he poked fun at me for doing so, saying that those things never work.

However, after checking the vehicle, he could not find a leak anywhere. He told me the head gasket hadn’t blown at all. The vehicle drove fine! The exhaust didn’t puff white smoke anymore nor did it smell sweet.

It has only been a couple of weeks, but it appears the leak has been sealed. I am very impressed.

OK here’s the deal. I have a 1999 Ford F250 with a clogged radiator/heater core and when towing it was always over heat when towing a heavy load (5000lbs – boat and 1800lb in bed) during summertime heat of 100F degrees.

1st cleaned radiator out with Irontite ThoroFlush which made my heater core leak like a babbling brook. Approx a pint of water would drip on passenger side floor in 5 min or LESS. So I read and decided to give K-Seal a try as replacing the heater core is a little tough but doable ( 4hr job for a DIY if you don’t break any other parts along the way).

Literally after about 5 min of pouring in K-Seal in radiator the massive dripping under the heater core started to slow down to a drip. then NOTHING. ZERO water. THIS STUFF IS AMAZING. Directions say to leave it in, no need to drain everything and refill with antifreeze so I have kept it in for now.

I’ll replace with regular antifreeze soon but if you have a leaky radiator/heater core, this is worth a try to delay costly repairs (if you don’t work on cars) like I can Hope this helps anyone deciding to give this a try, currently under $20.

I replaced an old Radiator and it started leaking fluid from my water pump seal. On referral from my brother who’s worked on cars 40 years said give this a try first. Well, it worked! Didn’t have to replace the gasket.

Well then it went to next weakest point. Hose connection started leaking so, replaced old pinch pressure clamp with a new hose screw on clamp. That worked and well now my AC unit has a small leak in one of its hoses that has a crimped collar to a metal connector.

So, I’m living with that till I get to my nephew who does AC work. So, I’ll say it works on leaky seals! Also, Thanks to another review who said you have to split the amount of liquid and pellets depending on your radiator size.

Have two plastic cups handy you can see through and a funnel.

My radiator developed a large leak, a new radiator is about $200. 00. I have tried stuff like this in the past and they are usually temporary fixes. My Ford Taurus doesn’t allow direct access to the radiator it has a large plastic reservoir.

I called Bar’s Leak advice line and they recommended PLT11. They said to mix the can of stop leak in a container with hot water first to dissolve the pellets and remove the top radiator hose and pour it in there.

It stopped the leak immediately. So far so good, only time will tell.

Tremendous and safe for your cooling system. Stopped my streaming leak the size of a pencil lead when other brands couldn’t. The pellets are the difference and what makes it “heavy duty” capable of plugging the larger leaks.

Important to idle the engine at least 30 minutes and until the leak visibly stopped. Been permanent since I then added 4 Oz of K-Seal product with (copper small enough) highly precision and smallest particulate to make it suspended then available for any future seeping that could develop, miracle that its really “cementing” where it’s needed to prevent any later seeping.

My Toyota with temperature controlling hvac works fine and wasn’t diminished for heating and a/c, engine cooling system working normally. I expect to be able to get continued service on the radiator and when it’s diminished I’ll replace it.

Tremendous!.

Awesome product. My TJ Jeep Wrangler started leaking it’s anti-freeze and couldn’t find the leak. To ease my mind while driving and avoid getting stuck out on a road with a “steaming” radiator, I poured Bar’s Leaks Liquid Aluminum Radiator and Heater Core Stop Leak.

The product started right away and I could see that no leaks after driving around with the solution inside my radiator. There was a “funky” smell for a couple of minutes but I am guessing its either the surrounding area (have my windows open) or from the product.

Either way, the smell dissipated after a few minutes. Jeep’s running well and smoothly again. I might replaced the radiator and replace the hoses too, Meanwhile, the Bar’s Leaks Liquid Aluminum Radiator and Heater Core Stop Leak, is still providing solid performance on a very hard working Jeep engine.

Have a 2004 Kia Rio I’ve been doing a lot of work on. Just when I think I’m done, something else pops up. (I’m sure you know the feeling. ) Radiator started leaking. Before I freaked out and bought a new one, I did my research and discovered this.

Over the last 2 years I’ve added about a bottle-and-a-half. I get a small leak, pour in what I can till radiator’s topped off and that’s it. Six months later another small leak. Lather, rinse, repeat – lol.

Imagine if I waited a bit or drained enough out to add a full bottle, might really seal it up but this way seems to do fine. All I know is I haven’t had to replace my radiator yet! Yay! :D.

This stuff works as well as it needs to. I was able to see this work in real time. My plastic radiator drain plug broke off when trying to perform a coolant flush. I had to drill a hole in the plug before using an extraction tool to remove it.

A stream shortly turned into drops. I had to redrill the hole several times because this stuff clogged the hole so well.

Houdini himself probably couldn’t do the magic this little can does. After replacing a R60 Mini Countryman WP, thermostat housing and cross-pipe; the cross-pipe started leaking behind the WP connection after a couple of months.

Replaced the pipe twice and same thing. The repair procedure is painful. After using this magic potion, the leak stopped. Nothing is perfect, every once in awhile (months) I might have to top up a small bit (nothing major), but beats trying to access the cross-pipe time and time again.

Had a slight leak (as in leaking half the expansion tank a week) on the water pump gasket AND the radiator on my VW Golf GTI and a bit sceptical if this stuff would work. Put it in as per instructions and had to give it a few days to circulate from the expansion tank into the system.

Glad to say since putting it in I have not lost a drop of coolant. I would recommend it for small leaks and as a preventative additive.

For the record, these are more for leak prevention then they are for stopping leaks. These type of tablets are added to all new cars at the factory to ensure a water tight seal in the cooling system.

If you have a small, or extremely slow leak, they may be able to stop it. However, you should always add these to a cooling system in which you do a full coolant flush or hose and/or radiator replacement.

They will work in all engine types with all coolant types.

I had a tiny leak somewhere in the lower part of the cooling system that did not show up using the pressure test method of detection at the shop. My mechanic suggested trying a sealer. I purchased the 2X concentrate originally then I called the Bars Leaks tech support line for help with application.

They suggested using 3 of the tablets instead. Got some of them and used as directed. Worked to repair my leak. I recommend them now, at least, for my kind of leak.

For anyone considering such a product I would first ask the question if such a product didn’t exist would you invest in the head gasket replacement? If the answer is yes I would seriously suggest that option over trying such products.

This product is best used for the Hail Mary save, when the choice is the junk the car or give this a shot. I don’t recommend it to delay a head gasket replacement. The reason why is this stuff uses something that is typically called liquid glass.

A liquid when exposed to high head forms a very hard solid crystal which hopefully will plug the hole as the solution tried to enter the hot combustion chamber. The problem is that if such solution can get through the hole it may also get onto the piston and that can score the cylinder.

Also if the head is warped there is a fairly good chance that the solution can also get into the oil which also could circulate till it heats up enough and may solidify anywhere and score bearings, rings, etc.

You may loose compression and power and fuel efficiency if these happen, but with that the head gasket may seal and it may be possible to get additional time on the car. For my own case I did much of this research after using it and do regret it and feel it did loose power.

Also it didn’t work the first time, but happened over additional driving and I’m still watching for bubbles which thankfully have not re-occurred but it’s still early (will update if things change). My suggestion also is to take several short trips and baby that car for a while till you get a seal.

Even repeat the idle/rest instructions the next day if that works for you. Part of it’s sealing can happen when you shut down the car and pressure in the cooling system causes the fluid to try to get in the the combustion chamber and allows the sealing as that’s still hot.

I also recommend following the instructions to the letter. Don’t think you can do better. It says idle then let fully cool, don’t try to circulate it better by increasing rpm’s, that just increases the pressure in the cylinder and can pop out the seal and increase the risk of damage to the cylinder when the solution re-enters.

You want things just hot enough and not too hot. Also I don’t recommend removing the thermostat as it actually appears to works better if the engine receives it’s first shot of this stuff when it is hot.

If you want to go as far as remove the thermostat do it after and clean it or put in a new one. Though I would consider bypassing the heater core unless it is suspect of also leaking, just because it’s so hard to change so why risk that initial ‘slug’ of stuff clogging it (this stuff looks like it also includes some standard stop leak and it’s not just liquid glass) Also some have commented that.

I have a 2014 Toyota Prius and began to experience a failing head gasket at only 100k miles (violent shaking of the engine on cold start up, gas/exhaust fumes detected in coolant, etc)… if you know anything about 3rd generation Prius’, you know head gasket failure is a common issue.

Not wanting to pay $4,000+ to repair my head gasket, I tried this head gasket sealant and was I in for a surprise. First off, READ THE INSTRUCTIONS. If you follow their instructions, you shouldn’t have any issues.

After getting the prep work done, I poured approximately half the bottle into the coolant reservoir (since you can’t directly access the radiator in the Prius). Then to keep the gas engine on, I put the car into Maintenance Mode and left the car on and idling for 15-20 minutes.

After idling, I turned the car off and let sit overnight. Drove the car the next day and absolutely no issues! Took the car back home, drove it once more after cooling down, then decided to flush the coolant (even though it says no coolant flush needed).

When I flushed the coolant, white chunks came out, so be aware of that. Now that I have fresh coolant in there, honestly the car drives like it’s new again. No more violent rattling on cold start up or if you let the car sit for a while (since the coolant can’t seep into the combustion chamber anymore).

Honestly I wasn’t expecting this to work as well as it did. Now I can get at least a little more time out of my Prius and not have to get another car. I’d definitely tell everyone to give this product a chance and if you follow the instructions, you shouldn’t have any issues.

Used this on a forklift that has a corroded water jet on the block that keeps burning through head gasket. I’ve replace 4 head gaskets on it in the last 10 years. Couldn’t get the parts immediately and needed the forklift today and figured why not try it.

Poured it in let it get to operating temp and wow it was fixed in under 15 minutes. It runs better now than it did after replacing the last head gasket. I rarely trust miracle in a bottle stuff but this was amazing.

I will buy the parts to have them on hand, but i am going to run with this stuff till it fails again. I will update when it does. One thing I couldn’t figure out till I read the bottle. The difference between the 13 dollar stuff and the 30 dollar stuff is the lower cost one only works with a flushed system and clean water only.

Spend the extra 20 and just pour it and go.

Every morning without fail I would see my bottom sump covered in coolant and a small puddle of coolant on the ground. My car was using about 80ml ever time I drove to work and back and had to constantly keep topping up my coolant tank.

I was sceptical at first with these types of products and read comments how it can block your heater cores and radiators. Thought I give it a go had nothing to else to loose and repairs would have cost a lot even just by replacing a seal or gasket because of being a European car you have to take everything off to get to certain parts.

I had no expectations with the use of the product after first use the leak stop but I do drive my car hard with boost and while doing that one day that hole opened up again but not as bad only like a 10 cent size leak at the area it kept like that for ages going away and coming back only when I drove hard but in less then a month even giving the car more power in a ECU tune it has never leak once yet and the coolant tank remains at the top maximum line.

Great product especially for the price and worth giving it a go like in my situation it can work for you depending on how severe and big your leak is. I do think this is only recommended for small holes though.

Every time when I switched off the engine of my old Landcruiser 1hz the pressure in exhaust / head decreased (obviously) and the pressure in the cooling system that still existed caused coolant to be pressed into the combustion chamber through a minimal crack in the head gasket.

Hence white smoke on start up and minimal coolant loss. So I thought it would be a good idea to try K-seal. I followed all the instructions and at first I thought it worked as the white smoke was gone immediately.

However a couple of hours later the engine overheated cause coolant and k-seal foamed heavily. I flushed the cooling system with a coolant flush to get rid of the slushy mix but no chance. Flushed with water afterwards at least 5 times but theres still residues to be seen and bubbles in the coolant now which i cant get rid of.

In the end the product made everything worse and ruined my cooling system on top of the head gasket crack – dont buy it!! May work for radiator leaks, but definitely not for head gaskets. Bad product in my opinion, as it is specifically advertised as head gasket repair.

PS sorry for my bad english.

was told nissan pulsar 2006 blown head gasket and not worth repairing vs worth of car – used this stuff and fixed it for a good 4 months. had a service and they flushed the radiator and in about 2 months started overheating again.

added a bottle of k seal and fine , in total maybe minimum 8 months since told to ditch the car. I suggest leave it in radiator permanently and if do a flush add to the tank after as they say on website can be left in permanently.

cheaper than a head gasket repair !.

This actually worked in my application! My radiator was slowly leaking coolant in the middle left section. I had to refill the reservoir once a month and it was smelling hot coolant every time I got off my car.

I was doubting if this would work, but gave it a try. So far so good the coolant leaking I believe it stopped. I have had not refill my coolant reservoir anymore and no more hot coolant smell. I suggest you try this before taking the car in for repairs.

This is to the one that commented not recommended 2 years ago. I bought it a year ago and it worked. I don’t even know where it’s leaking at. But it just started leaking again so I’m going to buy some more it lasted a year so I think that’s a very good deal considering a radiator would cost me over $100.

My 21 year old vehicle sprung a small leak in the radiator. Following the instructions, I tried this powder. No more leak. Easy and very low cost repair. Since my system only holds 8 liters, I only put in 1/2 of the powder, keeping the rest for later.

Highly recommended.

Coolant had been just pouring out of the bottom of my car, I was worried it might be done for good or that this would cost thousands of dollars in servicing to fix. I poured this tiny bottle of solution (around $5-6) into my radiator, drove to work, and when I got out 7 hours later, I absolutely couldn’t believe that there wasn’t a single drop of coolant under my car.

Literally magic.

The radiator in my 1989 F-150 appeared to have been beaten with a ball pein hammer for the last 23 years. It had a small leak from somewhere (driverside on radiator), and would slowly leak ~3/8 of the coolant out over a day.

After doing research on all of the radiator sealers, alumiseal appears to be the least harsh on the cooling system. I put about 80% of the bottle directly into the radiator and within 10 miles there was no leak.

If you have a beater that you dont want to spend $$$ on/ dont have time to put in a new radiator, THIS IS PERFECT.

Purchased this after going through You Tube University looking for a slow radiator coolant slowly disappearing Fix. Found this particular Bars product that allows to be used without flushing radiator.

Shake well install on a cold engine, let run for 15 to 20 minutes idling. In my opinion it wasn’t until I drove it the next time for almost an hour did it work fully. The metal particles find the small leaks and plug the holes.

I did find one leak at the plastic side part seem of the radiator that was weeping at the bottom near but not at the drain plug but seem. Radiator $175 plus labor or $12 becomes a no brainer. This stuff worked.

About a year ago I had a pretty decent leak in my radiator and had to fill my jeep with coolant anytime I hit the highway. Well I decided to use this product and it worked surprisingly. HOWEVER, if you do not flush it out within 8 months it will grow into a sludge that completely clogs up the system and will not let the coolant move properly through it.

DO NOT USE THIS PRODUCT UNLESS YOU PLAN TO FLUSH THE SYSTEM!.

My older Satarn was running hot, obviously leaking water from Raditor. The heater would quit working and it was deathly cold. I was working part time and did not have any money for costly repairs, especially given the fact it was an older car.

I was scared that I would break down somewhere though, and me being a female was really worried about that, and also worried that by running my card with it running hot it may blow the engine. I found this product online and it was pretty cost effective, so I gave it a try.

Directions were very easy to follow, even for me, whom doesn’t know much about cars. It worked like a charm, never had any more problems with leaking and my car did’t run hot again. It saved me tons of money I didn’t have for a costly repair from a mechanic.

It was a God Send and I would highly recommend this product.

I have an older Subaru, now has 280k miles on it all my own. About 5 years ago I used this product on a recommendation of a friend as the car was getting older and had a very small leak. It worked well and held up a long time.

Recently after taking the car to a shop to fix what they said was a leaky hose and getting a huge bill, I still had a problem and nearly overheated twice. So tried K-Seal again. The slight smell of coolant is gone, the car appears to have a bit more power and the coolant has not gone down at all since using.

I highly recommend for older cars where you are trying not to dump too much money into them. I know some people say there are risks it might bind up the radiator or other things but older cars , not much to risk.

Everyone I know including my mechanic friend has had a good experience with this product.

A number of years ago I noticed some coolant leaking from my ’91 Nissan D21 2. 4 liter pick up truck near the front of the vehicle approx. on the side of the radiator near the overflow tank. I had determine I was experiencing a head gasket leak along the intake side of the cylinder head.

This vehicle basically had 300k on it and I really did not want to, nor did I actually had the time to pull the head off. I had read about K seal and decided to give it a try. Well, that was about three or more years ago and the engine is still running just fine with no signs of leaking what so ever.

This product is “Out Of This World”!!! Thanks So Much For This Wonderful Product!! A Life Saver!!!.

This product comes in the cutest little container. I just had to mention that. Anyway, I was smelling a little coolant from car overtime and was noticing a slow decrease in the reservoir, which I first thought was condensation, from cold temps.

Although, I hadn’t really noticed that before. you know how sometimes you want to make yourself think something is one thing to avoid acknowledging and maybe another. lol. I turned out to be an extremely slow coolant leak.

I poured about 8 oz of the 11 oz of this product in the reservoir and a couple of days, the slight cool sent was no longer there and that drip under ceased.

Used this to divert water seeping in to a basement through cracks in the bedrock and where the existing cement foundation wall meets the bedrock. Having had an unusual couple of weeks of rain everyday there was quite a bit of water coming into a basement.

Bought this product to seal up,a couple of spots and to channel incoming water into a sump. Had to work on surfaces that were very wet and with no chance to dry any surface. Had about 14 horizontal feet of distance to work on.

The mixture is a very fine dust and when you add water it sets up extremely quickly. This is both a benefit and makes it hard to do much with it before it turns hard. The container says you have two to three minutes to apply a batch.

They are not kidding. If you stirred it a bit too long, you will have less time than that. The good news is that being so fine makes it great for sealing very small cracks and it sets so fast you can seal up cracks that are actively leaking.

It also sticks to rock and cement that is wet and slimy which was good in my case as the area had been wet for many days and I also needed to build a slightly raised ridge to direct water runoff to go to the sump instead of spreading everywhere in the basement.

As it starts to set you have a short opportunity to work it into a ball or elongated wad and it can be shaped for a short while after you put it down on your target area. Don’t mix it in a container that has any ridges in it as the stuff will set up so fast that you will have trouble cleaning the container.

It worked very well and I was pleased with the results.

I bought this Hyd Water Stop Cement to plug a leak in my basement wall where the were was coming through the old form ties. SAure does not work on running water, Filler the instruvtions to the letter even tried different mixes, Nothing worked.

Just waster $21. 93 and a lot os agraviation.

Used to stop perimeter seepage of a 40 years old foundation. House on a slope with one side totally buried under. Cut out 1. 5 x1. 5 ” with diamond blade b4 cement applied. Worked as it should unless it is against some strong water pressure after a day of 161 mm rain.

Work time limited so small patches.

With a seeping head gasket on our 1991 Vanagon, and not yet able to afford the expensive repairs, the Liqui Moly Radiator Stop Leak has held the leak at bay and given us many more kilometres on a tired engine.

A flush is not required which makes it more convenient, especially on a Vanagon that takes 18 litres of coolant. I would definitely recommend this product and will continue using it as needed.

Follow the instructions. Stopped a small leak on the radiator immediately. Still working 6 months later.

my intex pool was leaking pretty bad, we looked an looked for holes in the liner we found one in the bottom w, we patched it. so after filling the pool numerous times. it still leaked. we looked for days ,couldnt find the hole or holes.

we looked for a new liner,omg the price of that might as well buy a new pool. i came across this product and thought let me try it, before i spend hundreds of dollars. i put one bottle in , and when i put it in i poured it down the inside of the sides.

its been almost a month now , and the water level is maintaining the SAME!!!!!!!!! GREAT PRODUCT THAT WORKS FOR ME!!!!!!!!.

I have a hot tub that is fully foam filled beneath. Hot tub was leaking in multiple small areas. I could not locate even after jacking up tub and removing foam in area I suspected. Bought this and within the hour after use, ground was drying up where it had been leaking.

No water has been added in 3 days. I hope this is a long term repair!.

I used it on an inground pool return leak ( small small leak. ) so far it is not leaking and I used the leak repair about 2 weeks ago. I created a loop with the plumbing and bleed the pipe into a bucket of water circulating it very slow.

(For about an 1 hour) then just let set and repeated two more times. Likei said working so far would give 5 star if I had a larger time sample to go off of.

My 2005 Jeep Grand Cherokee, 5. 7 Hemi engine, developed a radiator leak, which required adding a quart of cooling fluid every 4 days. It is a major job to replace the radiator. I added the K&W stop leak to the existing coolant and the leak stopped, within 1/2 hour’s driving time.

I waited 2 days and then flushed the entire cooling system and installed new coolant. The flush was NOT REQUIRED, but my antifreeze level was very low. Still NO leak after flushing system. I have tried many other such products over the years, but this product is the BEST!.

The product fix a coolant leak at my water pump. But if you put incorrect amount of the product your car can overheat in some point after the use. I correct my mistake just flushing the coolant system and the car temp get back to normal and with no leaks !.

Bought this product about a few weeks ago, after i just replace the lifters. Notice a small slow dripping from the headers gasket. Retorque the bolts and coolant was still dripping. Decide to buy the K&W product and give it a try, and it work so far.

Just FYI,(my experience) i needed to flush the heater core, engine was getting hot and the heater core was clogged up with the product substance. Flushed the heater core, and unclogged it (It might need another flush).

I give it a thumbs up.

TranslateShow in original languageFrher war Wynns groe Klasse, war eine milchige Flssigkeit mit kleinen Schwebeteilchen. Jetzt wie die meisten neueren, bringt es nichts. Im Extremfall verstopfen die Khlerlamellen.

TranslateShow in original languageAn meinem 207 verschwand ber die Woche gesehen ein viertel Liter Khlflssigkeit ohne dass ich eine Undichtigkeit entdecken konnte. Nach einfllen von Wynns Khlerdichtung nach Gebrauchsanleitung ist das System wieder dicht.

Super.

TranslateShow in original languageDit product doet wat het zegt; ik had een lekje in mijn radiator en nu niet meer. Het is wel de tweede keer dat ik dit gekocht heb in ongeveer 20. 000 km, dus het is zeker geen definitieve oplossing.

I’ve had my rear and front main seal’s leaking for well over a year. I have tried countless stop leak additives but with no success. I was watching a video on u tube and the guy was raving about AT205 so I decided to give it a try.

I found it on summit and ordered some. the great people at summit wasted no time getting it shipped out, I think it was even shipped out the very same day I ordered it. it arrived exactly when they said it would.

I put one bottle in my oil and drove it around for 500 miles. at around 200 miles I stopped seeing oil leaks under my car. after the 500 mile mark I got under the car and wiped all the old oil away and its been cleane ever since.

in my opinion this product is a miracle product. and I am now a repeat customer at summit.

I had been refilling the power steering on my 2011 Toyota Avalon every 6000 miles and after seeing a couple of YouTube videos i decided to give this a try. I pressure washed the undercarriage and found the leak was coming from the lines that connect to the steering rack.

I poured 1 oz of this AT 205 and cycled my steering wheel from end to end a couple of times. I have not replaced the power steering fluid but i swear this thing worked like magic. Not only did it fix the leak, it also decreased the effort to turn the steering wheel making it feel as if it was electric power steering.

I also poured 5 oz in the engine, sprayed all the belts, CV joint boots, motor mounts, and all the rubber components I could see for preventative maintenance. On another note, my friend was looking to replace an old overstretched drive belt on her sewing machine.

I took the belt out, soaked it in a glass container, reinstalled it and now’s nice and tight. No new belt needed.