Best Shutter Speed For Portraits (2024 Updated)

Now that I have the YN560tx, the YN560iv, and a pair of the RF605, I have three ways to control remote speedlites from the camera. Which one makes the most sense depends on the situation. The 560iv offers pretty much the same control as the 560tx.

The 560tx is smaller and lighter than the 560iv, but then can’t have an on-camera strobe. The 605 is even smaller, and (unlike the RF603) does allow turning groups on and off. The advantage of the 560tx over the 605 is control of the remote strobes’ power and zoom.

With all those units, plus a 560iii, usage is very flexible. Can do any of these: * 560tx on camera, both 560iv and 560iii remote, and up to two additional remote manual strobes (of any brand) mounted on the 605s (no remote power nor zoom control of those).

* 560iv on camera, 560iii remote, and up to two additional remote strobes on the 605s. * 605 on camera, both 560iv and 560iii remote, and one additional remote strobe on the other 605 if desired. * with either the 560tx or the 605 on the camera, plus the right cable from it to the camera, can use the other 605 to remotely release the shutter – and trigger the remote flashes on the same shot, too! The 560tx is smaller than I expected, despite using AA batteries, and the 605 is larger than I expected, despite using AAA batteries.

I’ve tested them with a Nikon D7100 camera. Sync test was OK up to shutter speed 320, that’s useful. Usage of the RF605s is a bit confusing. Found out that: * the “TX” mode really means “on-camera” mode: transmits flash trigger signal (when the camera tells it to), and receives shutter release signal (from the remote unit, if used that way) – can even do both simultaneously in same unit for the same shot! This observation directly contradicts what the user manual says.

* the “TRX” mode really means “off-camera” mode: receives flash trigger signal, and transmits shutter release signal upon button press. If the on-camera 605 is in TRX mode, it doesn’t trigger the remote unit.

It has to be in TX mode. Despite receiving some things, the TX mode is supposed to drain the batteries more slowly than the TRX mode. The 560tx is permanently essentially in TX mode. I thought I’d go with the Phottix Strato Multi II triggers, which are superior to the Yongnuos: seem more solidly built, more compact, have a nicer user interface IMO, faster responding than the RF603, and have a 1/4″ thread on the base of the receiver.

But Yongnuo won me over by (1) adding the missing features: locking mount (603ii & 605), and grouping (605), still at 1/3 the price of the Phottix, and (2) offering the YN560iii with built-in receiver and YN560iv with built-in transceiver, and the 560tx controller, all at very attractive prices.

I teach and have a lot of the 600EX RT Speedlights and YN-E3-RT II Transmitters – I recently purchased several of the 650EX RT models and thought I could just use YN-E3 transmitters – nope. You need this one, the TX-Pro versions.

It took some button pushing but I got it to work with with the 650’s and it appears to work almost the same as the YN-E3-RT II transmitter. Also, I tried using this transmitter (TX-Pro) with the older 600EX RT speedlight and it did not work.

Maybe it will, but I was just happy I got it to work with 650’s so I did not mess with it. Little disappointed that all these products do not work together. At least I have a matching set. Maybe it will get fixed in a firmware update.

oh well.

Just got two of the YN560IV Speedlites plus the trigger to use them off-camera. The flash units are well made, robust and do the job perfectly. Each speedlite also comes with a protective case, a small plastic stand and reasonable instructions.

The two flash units and the trigger worked straight out of the box without any set up issues. I’m using them on a Panasonic, so the TTL elements that are specific for Nikon/Canon are irrelevant but for the money they are excellent value and I am looking forward to honing my off-camera flash technique.

I can use them both on one channel or put them on separate channels so that I can adjust them individually from the trigger unit. I also have a smaller Nissin i40 that I used which is for Panasonic and has TTL etc, but it cost more than the two Yongnuo’s and the trigger, by the time I’d added a trigger and receiver to use it off camera, the kit would be twice the price.

The i40 is smaller and neater and so handy for travel etc, but the YN560IVs pack more punch and are more adjustable. If they were lost, I’d order a new set tomorrow.

The reviews I read online all seemed to culminate into one main point about the Canon RP: It’s a good but not great camera designed for a very specific and small demographic. I felt confident that I fit into that group, namely in that I needed a new secondary body, and this body fits my needs perfectly.

Besides all of the subjective comparisons and compliments I can give it, objectively the RP does fit very well into a new groove of its own. As an entry-level, full-frame, mirrorless camera, it doesn’t do everything perfectly, but it does what it does very very well.

Every shot I’ve taken, I love. Weighing in at just under what-I-expected pounds, it’s light and small enough to carry around anywhere. As a sub-four-digit-price-tag body, I’m comfortable taking it to a lot of places I would NEVER take my R5.

I recently shot a wedding with the R5 on one hip and the RP on the other, and the shots are comparable. Yes, the R5 has higher dynamic range and more post-processing latitude and more front-end features and higher resolution and 4x file sizes and yada yada yada, but the RP is so comfortable and fun to use that it cannot be overlooked as a useful body.

If you’re a beginner to full-frame and/or mirrorless cameras, or if you’re a pro in need of a secondary body that doesn’t cost you the arm you need to hold the lens, the RP is a great buy that I guarantee you won’t regret.

TL;DR- It’s light, it’s comfortable, it’s cheap, it works well, it’s Canon, it’s not perfect but it’s great at what it was designed to do, it keeps up with the competition, I didn’t have any buyer’s remorse on this one, and I don’t think you will either.

As a route into full frame photography and the EOS R system this is a fantastic camera choice. Yes, it’s an older camera, but for the price and the included 24-105 RF kit lens you can’t go wrong. The camera is small for a full frame camera, but I found it to be easy and comfortable to use.

The Canon menu system makes it easy to navigate around the settings and controls; I found it very intuitive. One of the things I like most is the sharpness and quality of the photos straight out of the camera.

Compared to my older crop sensor camera the images from the Canon EOS RP are crisp and the colours are beautiful. I love the Canon colour technology. Before deciding on this camera I compared it with other full frame cameras.

For me, this was an introduction to full frame and the EOS R system. I decided that I would rather invest in quality RF lenses and upgrade the camera body in the future. It’s not a flagship camera, so don’t expect it to be.

I think this camera is perfect for everyday photography. In my opinion, the sensor is great and the photographs it takes look professional. The video quality is also very good, with its fully articulated screen, the EOS RP will probably make a for a good video camera for YouTubers.

I found the battery life of this camera to be ok. I get about 250-300 photos from the supplied battery. I didn’t have a higher expectation on battery life, so, I found it to be reasonable. The battery level can drop rapidly when the indicator reaches the 50% mark.

I would recommend buying spare batteries so you don’t get caught out if the battery level depletes quickly. If you are looking for an excellent camera that can create sharp, colourful and beautiful images at a sensible price, the Canon EOS RP can deliver that.

If you are undecided, do a little bit of research and decide if this is the camera for you. If you want to invest in the impressive RF lenses and upgrade the camera body later, in my opinion, this is an excellent choice.

This is my first mirrorless camera. I upgraded to the Z6 II after years of shooting with Nikon DSLRs, my last being the D810. This review is subjective, so your mileage and experience may vary from mine.

TLDR: Brilliant camera, highly recommended First, what I like. User interface: I like that the user interface is still largely familiar to Nikon shooters, although the positions of many of the buttons have been changed, so muscle memory still makes my left thumb hunt for controls that aren’t where they used to be.

These are minor changes, and it won’t take very long for me to adapt to the new setup. Image quality and noise handling: I’ve always liked the image quality that Nikon cameras provide, and the Z6 II is no exception.

It has lower resolution compared to my old camera (24 mp vs. 36 mp), but this will only affect me if I need to crop my photos substantially, which I usually don’t. There is a pretty significant gain in dynamic range and ISO performance coming from my last camera to this one, so that makes a huge difference to my shooting in low light conditions.

I set my auto ISO to an upper limit of 12,800, and image quality is still fantastic at this setting. Any observable noise at this level can quite easily be cleaned up in post-processing. See the next section for some more thoughts on auto ISO.

Use of legacy lenses: The fantastic FTZ II adapter has made moving to mirrorless much easier for me with all the legacy F-mount glass I have. The only AF lenses I have that won’t autofocus on the Z6 II are my D lenses, in which the AF is driven by a screw drive internal to Nikon DSLR bodies.

So, these D lenses are the only ones I need to replace for now, unless I’m okay with manual focus. Functionality on all my other lenses, including third-party F-mount lenses, remains unchanged. Touch screen: I like the touch screen functionality that this camera offers, including the ability to focus with a touch.

You can also trigger the shutter release with a touch, but I don’t like using this feature. While the newer DSLR bodies do have touch screens, my D810 didn’t. Since I do a lot of street photography, which in many cases involves my having to set the camera down at street level, the ability to both see AND focus on what I want to shoot using the back panel is definitely an advantage I did not have on my old camera.

I wish the touch screen was more articulating, but apparently this was limited to allow the use of an L-plate, which is something I’ve always used, so no real complaints here. Weather sealing and construction: I feel confident about shooting in rainy conditions since the weather sealing is so good.

And while the camera is definitely much lighter than my old one, it does feel very well constructed. Focus stacking: I like the option of being able to do this in-camera. It’s also a feature available on some DSLR models.

Dual card slots: Definitely a big improvement over the first-generation Z6. Now for what I think could be improved. Autofocus: I think Nikon has done a great job with the autofocus capabilities of this camera, even when one compares the Z6 II to the original Z6.

However, I find it cumbersome to switch between the modes that I need most. I usually use AF-C, single point autofocus for 90% of what I need to shoot, so that’s fine. For the remaining 10%, subject tracking often becomes necessary.

However, switching between single point and subject tracking with just a push of a button is impossible. You have to be in one of the auto area AF modes to quickly move to subject tracking mode. To move from single point AF to subject tracking requires you to first enable auto area AF (or one of the eye detection modes).

My workaround for this so far has been to first disable all other AF modes except single point and auto area, then assign AF to the Fn1 button, rotating the front dial while keeping Fn1 pressed to enable auto area AF, and then pushing the OK button to engage the subject tracker.

I’ve also input these settings into one of the user modes, so I rotate the mode dial to engage it. As I said, cumbersome. The performance of the single point AF mode is brilliant. Subject tracking, a little less so.

It’s just not as intuitive as I’d like it to be. If something gets in the way, the subject tracker doesn’t always track back to the subject. I also find it annoying that you have to start from the center to focus on the subject and then recompose while tracking.

I wish one could position the tracking cursor anywhere on the screen/viewfinder. However, since this function is reportedly better in the Z6 II compared to the Z6, I’m guessing that future firmware updates will mitigate this issue.

I primarily shoot in AF-C mode, and the focus point stays red even when focus has been achieved, instead of turning green (it turns green when you use AF-S or manual focus). I can’t for the life of me understand why Nikon did such a thing.

Auto ISO: I set my base ISO to 100 and my ISO ceiling to 12,800, a level at which I can live with the noise. On my old camera, I simply set the shutter speed to 1/100 sec. The Z6 II also has an Auto setting for shutter speed, which basically determines the focal length of your lens and adjusts accordingly.

If the focal length is 50 mm, it sets the shutter speed to 1/50 sec. If the focal length is 24 mm, it sets the shutter speed to 1/25 sec. You can increase or decrease this Auto setting by up to 2 stops so that the shutter speed is 1 or 2 stops faster or slower than the auto setting determined by the focal length.

This is not readily apparent, which is why I’m explaining it here. Nikon should have done a better job of this. I don’t like this setting because the shutter speed changes every time you change the focal length on a zoom lens such as a 24-70 mm.

So, you might have sharp subjects on the street when you shoot at 70 mm, but the same scene could have motion blur if you zoom out to 24 mm because the shutter speed was automatically slowed down. You might not notice this when you review the image on the LCD screen unless you zoom to 100%.

I prefer to set my shutter speed to 1/100 or 1/125 sec and change it when I need to. Battery life: Battery life is obviously much shorter, even with the new EN-EL15c batteries compared to DSLR bodies.

This is understandable because of the juice required to power the EVF and the LCD, since there is no optical viewfinder (this also means you can’t compose your shot while the camera is off or sleeping).

That said, however, one needs to plan accordingly, with backup power when one needs it. The option to power via USB cable is useful because it allows you to use a power bank or an AC outlet while shooting, although this would be limited mostly to situations where your camera stays in one place while you shoot (studio, landscape).

If you’re shooting street or weddings/events, carry spare batteries. Other features I wish were offered: I wish Nikon had provided a rotating dial instead of the 8-point multi-selector on the back of the Z6 II.

Since the focus points in the Z6 II are moved by the joystick (sub-selector) instead of the multi-selector (in DSLR bodies, the multi-selector moves the focus point), and the fact that you can navigate through the menus and settings using the touch screen, I think the functionality of an 8-point multi-selector is largely redundant.

If a dial were provided instead, similar to what one sees on Canon and Sony bodies, this could have been customized for ISO settings, for instance, which would be very useful while shooting in manual mode.

This would be easier than having to press the ISO button and rotating the front dial. Another feature I wish Nikon had provided on the Z6 II is a sensor shield. With the Z mount flange being so close to the sensor, and the fact that there’s no mirror for added protection, changing lenses, especially in the field, always brings with it the risk of dust on the sensor.

A sensor shield should not be a feature reserved only for flagship cameras (the Z9 has one). Nikon should have included one with EVERY mirrorless body. It’s not a luxury, it’s a necessity. Other features on the Z6 II are either comparable to those on previous DSLRs I’ve used, or are features I don’t use much (e.

g. , video capabilities), so I won’t mention them here. Final thoughts: Although I’ve made several points above, it all comes down to whether this camera is good for the photography I do. Does it help me make better pictures (or make good pictures more easily) than my previous D810? Absolutely.

Am I happy with this camera? Absolutely. Do I recommend it? Yes, with conditions. If you, like me, have been a Nikon shooter for years, have a number of Nikon FX lenses, want a full-frame mirrorless camera, and are not ready to switch ecosystems just yet, get the Z6 II.

You will not be sorry, and you will not go wrong. If you’re not as invested in Nikon glass as I am, I would recommend taking a few competitors (Sony a7 IV, Canon R6 and Panasonic S5) out for a test drive too.

I’m not saying these cameras are better or worse than the Z6 II. They’re all very good. It all depends on personal preference – your level of comfort with the user interface, the availability of lenses, the 300-500 dollar difference in price between these different models, etc.

I have shot every brand of speedlight reasonably available (because there are so many knockoffs. ) and these are the most reliable, best by as far as they are high priced. I think the original marketing that they are portable studio lights is ridiculous.

But these A10s are steadfast performers from beginning to end, I love them, they have made me a better photographer because I no longer have to worry about misfires, I can just work with my subjects.

These speedlights are so dependable. They rarely misfire when used at a reasonable frame rate. I use them with grids, rarely with gels, they do give off a blue-ish tint sometimes compared to environmental light.

They are my workhorse lights for outside photography. I’ve banged mine up quite a lot and they just keep working. Versus the A2 these are a dual speedlight and air remote. Versus the real air remotes, I prefer the real ones because they are lighter.

But sometimes you need to switch quickly from front flash to controlling lights and this is very handy. Things that could be better: -price, I mean, they are expensive if you break them. I’ve broken one of three so far due to a stand falling over (the hotshoe broke) -battery life is not the best and the batteries are expensive.

I don’t remember how much other li-on batteries cost but these are kinda pricey. However in my experience overshooting, as I do, two batteries will carry me for a wedding, three if I really go nuts with high powered flashes and need an extra battery to reduce my worrying (not sure i’d need it) -expensive adapters for bigger modifiers, or expensive and limited modifiers.

IDK why you might want a strip box on one of these, but if you do it will cost you a lot for an adapter. I currently own everything except barn doors and it’s all pretty great. The profoto modifiers are amazing and the magnet mounts are fantastic, way better than other competitors.

I’ve been a full-time professional photographer for 25 years using Canon equipment. Until I bought this unit I had always used Canon flashes. The A10 worked fine for the first three times I used it. Then the head stopped firing in the middle of an event.

I emailed ProFoto for warranty support but am not hearing back from them. I suppose a return for credit is out of the question, but that’s what I would most like. Second choice would be an even swap for a new A10 unit.

Warranty repair would be OK, but I’m not enthusiastic about a brand-new product that fails on its 3rd time out. Reliability is one of the factors that is most important to me. Even though the A10’s features are impressive, and it appears durable, now I know I can’t really count on this flash, and will be going back to Canon as my primary gear.

I tried the iPhone feature. It’s difficult to hold the iPhone and then take the photo by holding the flash unit. Need a better solution for this to really work well. I very rarely break my own rule of not using 3rd-party equipment, and this incident has reminded me why.

Canon may not have the best flash unit, but they have the most reliable one. A product that carries the ProFoto name and costs $1,000 should be a five-star product. I’m very, very disappointed.

Firstly I must state that dealing WEX was first rate though in dealing with the issues experienced. The first A10 exhibited a number of issues, the main one being underexposed images when shooting in TTL mode on the Nikon D850 & D700.

Further, the switch that selects manual or TTL moved too freely causing issues, then the battery required charging four time during a three hundred shoots and no all at full power. The replacement unit still underexposed the images in TTL mode by up to q.

4 stops, the other issues such poor battery life and switching between manual and TTL were fine The zoom ring was a rather sloppy affair but the repeat exposure accuracy in manual mode was very good.

The maximum flash output power was also disappointing falling short of old Nikon SB900’s and I felt the recycling times were also disappointing. Overall, I could not recommend this flashgun based on my experience.

Interestingly, my my review of this product was not published on the Profoto web site which I think says a lot about Profoto.

For the last 10 years I have been using the Canon 600 EX-RT flash on my Canon 5D series (I, II, III and IV) and then on my r5. I used rechargeable Enloop 2500MA NiMH batteries. However, the recycle times (depending on flash output) could take between 1 and 4 seconds.

The Li-ion battery pack works remarkably well, whereby recycle times are a fraction of a second on continuous shooting. The UI menus are easy to use and input is fast and easy. Some photographers complain of sticker shock at the price.

However, the list price also includes a battery charger, and a Li-ion battery. The combined cost of these two items is about $180 by themselves. I purchased my EL-1 during B&H Black Friday price of a $200 discount.

The charger is compatible with the Canon batteries used by the D series and r series cameras and having a 2nd charger is convenient when you want to charge more than one battery at a time. The EL-1 battery is not compatible with the Canon camera bodies, due to it’s extended length however the battery charger is the same (fortunately).

The LED modeling light is great and it also serves as an excellent light for macro or close up work where a continuous light may be more desirable. The EL-1 is a major quantum leap in camera mounted flash tech.

Read the real manual that you need download. I’m not sure why Canon doesn’t make a bigger deal of this little flash in the overview. If you have multiples of EL-100 flashes, you can do all sorts of creative lighting.

This flash will run two groups where you can set the balance, i. e. left and right, as well as a background light. The main downside to the optical transmission is that the flashes need to have a direct line of sight to the main ‘sender’ flash unit on camera.

That said, it wouldn’t be much of an issue with telephoto lenses and portraits. In my initial testing, the ‘receiver’ flash was firing when the camera flash was nearly 90 degrees to the right. Of course, the little window on the flash is on the left.

These would also be nice for setting up one or two ‘receiver’ flashes for bounce flashes in a bigger room. They will also do manual flash by pre setting the output levels. Anyways, read the complete manual before you purchase one, because you may want two or three of them.

It would still be cheaper than other lighting options to get these effects.

My out of the box experience was disappointment. I normally research purchases extensivly but in this case I made a last minute switch from a wireless Vello ShutterBoss II to the Pluto Trigger. The price difference seemed worth it for the added functionality.

But I hadn’t done enough research to realize that you also need to order an extra cable specific to your camera. I now see they have a drop-down menu to help you add the needed cable, but it would be helpful if they added a warning for customers who overlook this detail.

Hopefully I have the option to re-rate this after I get the cable and have a chance to actually use the product which will continue sitting uselessly on the shelf until that cable arrives.

After years and years of procrastination, I finally decided to purchase a Speedlite. I’ve always been a “use the light that you are given” photographer, which obviously makes certain shoots a chore (other than the occasional use of lightsticks, ring lights, etc.

) I knew that there was a world of photography that I had yet to experience, simply because I was too stubborn to purchase a decent flash. Seeing as I have the camera (R5) and lens, I figured that it was finally time to bite the proverbial bullet.

And now I’m kicking myself that I haven’t done so sooner. I’m clearly a “beginner” when it comes to using flash photography, but the Speedlite makes learning easy and fun. As I have very little experience with any form of camera mounted flash, it’s hard to compare it to others on the market.

With that said, I am far from disappointed with the results! As far as I can tell, everything about the flash is rather intuitive, and the recycle time is plenty for my photography. The “auto” mode is pretty amazing, and seems to be able to pick out just the right amount of light for proper exposure every.

single. time. I hesitated between going all out and purchasing the “latest and greatest” that Cannon had to offer, but found that paying over $1K for a Speedlite was rather ridiculous (not a paid professional that can justify that cost for such an accessory).

It seems like 600EX II-RT will hold the test of time, and I am very excited to be able to embark in this new lesson in photography!.

The 600EX II-RT works great on its own. However, I have 4. As a wedding photographer, I need my on-camera and remote flashes to reliable function in a different building every weekend. The built-in wireless triggers are unreliable.

Depending on the building, the connection between the on-camera flash and the remote flashes will drop every few minutes. The only way to reconnect is turn each remote flash off and on again. This is a completely unacceptable level of reliability for the price and totally unworkable in a professional event setting.

I’ll be selling mine.

The 600EX II-RT works great on its own. However, I have 4. As a wedding photographer, I need my on-camera and remote flashes to reliable function in a different building every weekend. The built-in wireless triggers are unreliable.

Depending on the building, the connection between the on-camera flash and the remote flashes will drop every few minutes. The only way to reconnect is turn each remote flash off and on again. This is a completely unacceptable level of reliability for the price and totally unworkable in a professional event setting.

I’ll be selling mine.

I recently switched from Canon’s RT system because I was having intermittent failures with the ST-E3-RT and my 600EX-RT’s. The best theory put forward was that they were suffering from RF interference and, after being interrupted twice during a paid gigs, I decided I needed to try something new and picked up this transmitter and a pair of ONEs.

I was very anxious to know if Elinchrom would perform any better and I had a nagging doubt that they’d use the same radio frequency bands and be just as vulnerable. However, after reading the manual, it sounds like the older Elinchrom units are the only ones that share frequencies and maybe newer units can use a different range that might be less vulnerable.

I’ve shot two gigs now with this transmitter, one shoot at the same location I’d had a failure before, and I’m pleased to say that I’ve had no such problems. If it continues to be as reliable it was a worthwhile upgrade.

As far as interface goes, it’s still a bit clunky — 7 buttons and a wheel only give you so many user-interface options and it isn’t always as smooth as I’d like. I can chalk some of this up to my own Canon muscle-memory though and maybe I’ll just get used to it.

One feature I love: test-fire in TTL, then switch to manual and it starts at power settings that were used for the TTL shot. My old Canon transmitter never did this and it’s a great feature. One feature I miss: the transmitter can’t relay color temperature information to the camera like Canon’s can so AWB doesn’t work — you have to switch to manual temperature and guess where temp should be based on how your lights behave at different power settings.

It’s not a deal-breaker, but it’s a feature I definitely miss. Gripes aside though, if it’s reliable, it’s infinitely better than what I was using before.

I’ve been using Elinchrom for the past 6 years and have come to love their strobes and especially their lighting modifiers. Their transmitter has always been their achilles heel, however. The new Skyport Plus HS aims to put them right back up there with the competition and promises great backwards compatibility as well as new heads to allow anyone to HS at any shutter speed.

I am a wedding, family, and senior photographer and I use Elinchrom units on location (Ranger RX Speed AS) as well as in the studio with everything from the D-Lites to the ELC Pro 1000. Coming from the pitiful Skyport transmitters of yesteryear, these Plus HS units vastly improve everything on the old ones and now include an infrared AF assist and a screen which provides you with the ability to see the power settings on each remote unit.

(The hot shoe is another notable step forward and closely matches the Canon 600EX-RT hot shoe) At the moment I believe there are a few bugs to be ironed out, such as my units not properly displaying on the screen (ELC PRO HD 1000 in particular) and I often have to rescan to get the unit to display again.

This doesn’t affect the transmitter’s ability to control power or fire the units, I think it’s a bug that they will hopefully solve via a firmware update at some point. Oddly enough, my older BRX500 units display perfectly every time which is great because I have a unit up very high for hair lighting and that’s always been a major problem for me to adjust.

As far as HS goes, I haven’t been able to push my Ranger RX Speed AS past 1/500 on my 1DX without any visible banding but then again I am using the A Action head. With a S head on backorder, I hope to be able to HS to full 1/8000 sec.

I do hear that Nikon’s HS better than Canon’s do but that remains to be seen. I doubt I will ever use HS in the studio but again, my ELC PRO 1000 heads are my main units and don’t seem to be displaying properly as of 11/3/2015.

After about a week of use I’m very confident that I’ll never touch the old Skyport transmitters again (which I have 3 of because they never seem to work properly). I’ll try to update once I get my S head and I’ll see if there is a fix for the ELC units not displaying.

Overall if you have the older generation Skyport transmitter, I’d tell you to jump right on this unit to start learning and taking advantage of all of the new features.

This is a great camera, but it looks like Canon just listened to YouTube noise makers and not to the silent world by discontinuing DSLR cameras. The reasons and EVF is dark first and lights up, not necessarily to the correct brightness.

The LCD screen goes blank at times. In the single point focus mode, the focus point is not small enough, therefore it often gets confused. In the eye focus mode, it misses eyes a number of times. The spot metering circle is too large, probably like partial area metering boxes rather than spot metering.

Not sure by transforming to a mirrorless world, we have to compromise so many things. I am not particularly crazy about burst rate, since I don’t shoot sports, but, so much automation is generally for photography challenged people, rather than experienced photographers.

No offense meant to anyone. Other issues are if you leave the camera on, the sensor is constantly exposed and perhaps bad for life of sensor and it could destroy a few pixels. I am sure Canon’s sensors are of high quality, and this is probably one of the advanced sensors, but the sensors if accidently exposed to constant bright light, could destroy.

These is a warning about this in the manual. Therefore, I prefer DSLRs. I could list a number of things, but I was hoping for 5D Mark V and it certainly does not seem to be coming. Therefore my suggestion to Canon is to take a survey from its existing customers on what kind of products they would like, rather than listen to YouTubers.

Fantastic upgrade from my 6D MKii, I’ve been looking and comparing Sony and EOSR5/6 Rp etc. I watched probably every video on YouTube, picked up almost all of these cameras and this one sat just right.

This camera may not have every latest feature but what it does have are the ingredients inside to take some amazing shots. It feels nice, it’s not bulky like older DSLRs, it doesn’t feel plastic, it’s fantastic.

Great dynamic range, this is a pro level camera and capable of achieving a lot of different tasks depending on your skills and lens choice. I love the look and feel of these new lenses, even the STM versions.

They all feel so much better than the older EF, EFs lens and older L series. The mount it self just looks far more superior and contoured just the right way that ads an amazing edge to older canons. When I was looking at the RP I noticed that it didn’t have screen on top and It bothered me that it was not there so I much prefer having it.

All of my batteries from my 6DMKii fit as well so that’s a win. Over all this was a fantastic upgrade for what I had and I would highly recommend this to any level that wants a good pro level mirrorless camera shooting experience.

After shooting SLR and DSLR for the last three decades, this is my first mirrorless camera. First the good. The Canon menus are intuitive and easier than ever to navigate with touch controls and the familiar layout.

My lenses are all compatible with the adapter I purchased – and autofocus seems just as fast as when coupled with my old bodies. The ability to focus is assisted in the dark with the RF beam and I found this to be amazing and get more in focus shots than previously possible at wedding receptions.

Now the “meh”. The autofocus system required me to work extensively to find the settings best for me. I did not like the “eye” autofocus as I found it hurts composition as I’m looking around. Also, the back screen can be touched while looking through the viewfinder to focus, but I find it almost unusable in situations where speed is necessary – despite the innovation, center focus is still best.

And now my complaint – the camera has banding in the images. This was enough to deduct one star because I cannot have banding in a professional setting. I’ve gone online now and discovered I’m not alone.

It is not every shot, but, it’s enough that you could miss a moment if you are a single shooter. I plan on contacting canon to see if anything will be done in a future firmware update. Despite the banding, it’s a solid camera with great innovation.

If you are upgrading from the 5d mkiv – it’s a nice next step.

I am a sports photographer and bought this to replace one of my oldest cameras a 7D MkI. I wanted to make the switch to mirrorless and decided on the R6 for the 12fps. I only use EF glass for now. If you are looking into this camera, and need the 12fps to make sure you check the supported EFS lens on Canon’s site.

None of my lenses are supported for this feature and I did not find that out until after I bought the camera. Compared to the 7DMk2 the build quality and a focus system (outside of eye AF) are not as good.

The camera does not feel like a pro camera which is unfortunate for a camera in this price range. The regular modes for focusing are not nearly as good as the 7D mk2 and maybe not as good as the 7D Mk1 so that is disappointing.

I have reached out to Canon on this and they really do not have a great answer. So, if you buy this camera and shoot fast-moving subjects use the AI focus modes. Battery life is low and you need to stay above a certain level to keep 12fps so think about getting a battery grip.

I am also losing connection to the lens I just purchased which I have never experienced with my DSLRs. I ended up exchanging this one for the same model hoping that I got a bad one. Now for the good.

The low light performance for noise is really good with this camera. The EVF is really good and I am actually starting to prefer it over the optical VF on my DSLR’s. The eye AF is absolutely incredible when you can use it.

The camera is smaller and lighter than my DSLRs. It is a FF mirrorless camera. Even though this camera has some issues, I am still glad I bought it so I can start to transition to mirrorless as Canon will no longer be making any new DSLR models in the future.

Canon is still making FW updates so hopefully, some of the issues above can be solved in software. However, I think Canon has a way to go to make this camera as rock-solid as the single digit DSLR’s like the 7D series or the 5D series.

We all have loads of bags, but I think I just found my favorite for travel. I have had this for 3 months now. I have been on a bunch of small trips for long weekends, day trips, and a big trip to Scotland for 2 weeks, and here are the highlights: 1.

Plenty of space internally for the travel day. I packed 2 Bodies, a 24-70 F2. 8, 16-35 F2. 8, 100-400mm (in original case not the cube), 55mm 1. 8, 1. 4 Teleconverter, RX100, and Macbook 14inch and still enough space for wireless headphones and travel essentials.

This counted as my personal item. and while bigger than the allowable size I have always found that if you wear a backpack on your back when boarding it gets through as long as you don’t overpack it to the point of bursting.

2. Easy at the airport. Very quick to just open the back and take out all the cameras and laptop at security. The luggage strap is also great. 3. When using daily with a camera and lens on a peak design clip the 100-400 can fit in the main cube.

The bag also contains enough space for daily walks with space for personal items. 4. Straps are good for holding the tripod down the back (I wanted to have the side slot for a water bottle). 5. The removable waist straps are really good when you have a longer hikes.

They do get in the way a little when attached. so I advise only using them when needed. Very easy to take on and off once you get the hang. 6. The extra pockets on the outside of the bag are a perfect balance for me.

The big back one contains waist straps and a waterproof cover that works for my camera when on a peak design clip. The key pocket held my keys, pen, and peak design leash for camera only days. The passport pocket held our passports for the whole trip, and the top pocket was great for quick things (just beware it competes with the top compartment space).

7. I even removed the camera cube on one day where I was going for a long hike with just 1 camera and lens. and it worked very well as a day pack for hiking. 8. Dealt with weather and mud very well. 9.

The rolltop is very useful. Used a number of times during the trip to carry layers, purchases, other family members stuff etc. 10. The carry handles. I thought I was going to hate these and that I would probably remove one.

but they do come in useful when you have the bag open and want to move it without closing everything up. The only 3 things I found that were I changed / wished were different: 1. I removed one of the sets of velcro so the rolltop is not as loud / annoying.

2. I wish it had a normal chest strap. While it looks clean, and is removable, it did pop entirely off once and I was lucky to have noticed it before packing up. 3. I hate the wording on the carry handles.

seems very tacky to have this on what is otherwise a very classy bag. Hope this helps anyone in their buying decision. Any questions please ask.

This backpack hit all of the very specific requirements I had for a bag, save one. It is extremely light, insanely comfortable (already hiked about 6 miles with it), durable, seems really well made. It’s ergonomic and has plenty of pockets and attachment points.

I like the built in camera cube and it fits my Nikon Z7 and minimal kit (24-70 f/4 lens, l-bracket, spare batteries etc with lots of room to spare. Wasn’t sure I’d like the rolltop but as it turns out I love it and it’s not inconvenient (relatively speaking of course–it is a roll top and no a zip compartment).

But here’s my one thing: tripod carry is not great, not even a little. I have a very small tripod, the Manfrotto Element small. It’s about 12. 5 folded. I can attach it to the bottom of the pack no problem using straps (I picked up some f-stop ones rather than shell out another $25 for the Wandrd ones), BUT then it blocks the quick access opening on the side, which is a huge reason why I bought the bag.

If I put it in the bottle holder pocket, there’s no strap to keep the head from flopping over (I know some people rig them with a bungee cord but my tripod is too short for that). Finally, if I mount it on the front of the bag using horizontal straps (again, f-stop), it messes up the balance of the pack and makes me feel like the bag is pulling me backwards.

If I can figure out a better way to make tripod carry work, this pack will be absolutely perfect. If not, then it’s almost perfect, but I’d still highly, highly recommend it, especially if you are looking for a small but spacious pack and don’t carry tripods often.

(Oh, and for reference, I’m a 5’2 woman with about a 17-18 torso. This is the ONLY pack I found that was not way too big/heavy for me AND had BOTH side access and weather resistant zips plus room for non-camera gear.

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