20 Best Sealant For Water Leaks (2023 Updated)

My built-in sunken hot tub in a small custom-added redwood room stood unused for about 22 years. I thought it would be cheaper to fix it and use it for therapy than purchasing a therapeutic bath tub.

When I fired it up I found many problems including that it had three small leaks – all three were visible or made visible by disassembly of the outside spa pack. None of them could easily be fixed by patching – without really getting expensive.

I did some research and found “Fix A Leak”. Since my hot tub was only about 300 gallons, I thought I wouldn’t need the whole bottle at one time. So I treated in thirds – following the on-bottle directions.

The leaks slowed but didn’t stop. I think I ran the pump for a total of 10-12 hours the first time. Since there was some progress, I bought a second bottle. I put the whole bottle in at once following the directions and not changing water from the first treatment.

After running the pump another 10-15 hours, the leaks started to really close down. So I ran the pump another 10-15 hours and the leaks completely closed. I let the tub stand with the pump off for a few days, then started the pump, ran it, heated the tub, let it cool, heated it again, and finally satisfied myself that it wasn’t leaking anymore.

It wasn’t and it hasn’t forthe past week. I don’t know what it will do down the line, but it’s good now. The secret is keeping the active crystals in solution and keeping them circulating. I could see the leaks and when they stopped leaking, I could see the crystals coming through the leaks from the inside and drying when they hit the outside air – stopping the leak.

They also change color to a yellowish brown – this was a very small amount but I could see it happen. So the secret is to use a lot of “Fix A Leak” and let the pump run a long time. Keep the crystals in solution – you will see them settle to the bottom of the tub.

I used a broom to keep them stirred up and ran the air injector to really remix them in the water. Keeping running the pump It works. Then I emptied the tub, put the filters back in, refilled and heated.

Everything, as I said, is good so far.

hello i have a large vinyl liner in-ground pool leak lousing 1 inch of water a day. i tried this product instead of calling the pool guys. it started to work on day two of the repair only lousing 1/2 an inch but that only lasted a day and the leak continued.

still lousing an inch of water. if a had to do this over i would have used two bottles of fix a leak , maybe giving me a better shot at fixing this leak.

This product was used on an above ground pool with a vinyl liner that had been leaking slowly. After the first few days it did not seem to work. However, after a week the leaking has completely stopped.

Like any type of paint or sealers, surface preparation is what really makes the difference on whethe it works or not. I decided to coat the metal roof of my outside storage shead. This all steel building is almost twenty years old and began leaking last winter.

I had planned to coat it with “Flex Seal White. The original color of the roof. It is surface rusted in areas, but not bad. Water was also seeping through screw holes. I took a wire brush and electric sander and cleaned the entire roof first.

Not heavy cleaning but enough to scratch the surface and get most of the rust and years of dirt and mineral build up off. Next, I used the sealer in white to spray the cracks and screw holes with several light coats, the recommended approach, then I coated the entire roof twice with a medium coat.

That’s a little more work, but helps to make sure it sticks for a long time. BTW, I also used the grey color to paint the top of my grey spa cover in the back yard. Same approach, and it worked perfectly also and looks brand new now! Great product! Using it to seal some small cracks on the side rain gutters and slide-outs on my motor home.

Several light coats always works best in lieu of a single thick coat. Amazing!.

I recently purchased this to fix a problem with aluminum siding under my garage. All of it cake out of the can. Some others said they were only able to get 1/2 out. I was spraying it on the wall so it seemed to run.

I wish it had of been thicker so I wouldn’t have had to do more coats. Some of it went on bubbly but smoothed out. It did run out very fast. I expected more coverage. Maybe they should use larger cans.

Expensive , but it seems to have solved my problem and kept me from having to replace some of the siding. I would buy again , just wish it wasn’t so expensive or came in a larger can.

I bought Rust-Oleum LeakSeal for ten bucks from a WalMart store and a $5 can of Mighty Sealer (As Seen On TV) from a Menards big box store. I bought two steel garbage cans to hold bird seed for this winter to protect against squirrels, mice, rats, deer.

A few years ago, I noticed water entered through the small handle holes in the top lid. It ended up molding my birdseed and causing a lot of corrosion on the bottom of the cans. Threw them away. So this year I sprayed the Inside BOTTOM and SIDE SEAM of both steel garbage cans with Rust-Oleum.

It applied smooth, but ran empty fast. I used the Mighty Sealer on the Outside BOTTOM and ran out fast. The Mighty Sealer went on BUBBLY. It looked terrible, like it wouldn’t work. After the cans dried over 24 hours in my garage, I see a big difference between the two.

Rust-Oleum looked a lot better quality. But it costs way too much for the little amount you get to apply. Will update to see how it holds up through December 2012.

I went into this thinking it wouldn’t work at all and possibly cause other problems. Minor head gasket leak that was getting into the combustion chamber and blowing out the exhaust, but not getting into the oil.

I would watch a small bubble rise into the overflow tank once every couple seconds, and over the course of 100 miles or so would be putting in a half gallon of coolant. Since it was fighting against the compression I doubted it would be able to work its way into the hole and plug it up.

I followed the “less is more” method that others on here had good results with. I drove the car to work to get the coolant up to temperature so the thermostat would be open and ready to cycle coolant.

Got to work early and poured roughly 4 or 5 ounces of what looks like robot vomit into the overflow tank, turned the heater on full blast, and let it idle for about 30 minutes with the cap off the overflow tank.

I watched the typical bubbles come up into the tank every time the cooling fan would kick on, but noticed they stopped appearing on the last couple cycles. 9 hours later drove the car home as usual and checked again when I got home, no bubbles and coolant had remained at the level I left it at.

I’ve been driving it for a couple weeks now and have even gotten on it fairly hard and haven’t lost a drop of coolant yet. I’m actually in shock. We’ll see how long it holds up, and if it blows I still have 11 or 12 more ounces to try hitting it with again.

If I get a few months out of it I’ll be happy. Please note that if you have a head gasket leak on a car you really want to keep, do not use this. Bite the bullet and get it repaired properly. On the other hand, if you have a 32 year old car that you didn’t spend much on and are just using as a beater, it’s definitely worth a shot.

I took my 2010 Land Rover to a mechanic because it was leaking coolant. The exhaust was sweet-smelling and there was no coolant dripping from anywhere in the engine bay. I suspected a leaky or blown head gasket.

I let the car sit for 3 or 4 days and upon start up there was a big puff of white smoke and I got the check engine light. Cylinders 4 and 6 had misfired upon start up. I took it to a mechanic to get it checked out and he confirmed a head gasket leak with an estimated cost of repair approaching $10k.

I decided to look for a cheaper alternative to at least postpone having to spend so much money on a repair on a car I had just purchased (used with 110,000 miles) and I found K-Seal. I read another reviewer who suggested not putting in the recommended amount, but just a few ounces, which is what I did.

I put in between 2 and 3 ounces into the coolant reservoir and followed the instructions. The car has a 5 liter V8, which is small compared to the engines K-Seal is designed for, so that made sense to me.

I took the car to another mechanic to get a second opinion about the head gasket after putting in K-Seal. I told him I had put a gasket sealer into the car and he poked fun at me for doing so, saying that those things never work.

However, after checking the vehicle, he could not find a leak anywhere. He told me the head gasket hadn’t blown at all. The vehicle drove fine! The exhaust didn’t puff white smoke anymore nor did it smell sweet.

It has only been a couple of weeks, but it appears the leak has been sealed. I am very impressed.

OK here’s the deal. I have a 1999 Ford F250 with a clogged radiator/heater core and when towing it was always over heat when towing a heavy load (5000lbs – boat and 1800lb in bed) during summertime heat of 100F degrees.

1st cleaned radiator out with Irontite ThoroFlush which made my heater core leak like a babbling brook. Approx a pint of water would drip on passenger side floor in 5 min or LESS. So I read and decided to give K-Seal a try as replacing the heater core is a little tough but doable ( 4hr job for a DIY if you don’t break any other parts along the way).

Literally after about 5 min of pouring in K-Seal in radiator the massive dripping under the heater core started to slow down to a drip. then NOTHING. ZERO water. THIS STUFF IS AMAZING. Directions say to leave it in, no need to drain everything and refill with antifreeze so I have kept it in for now.

I’ll replace with regular antifreeze soon but if you have a leaky radiator/heater core, this is worth a try to delay costly repairs (if you don’t work on cars) like I can Hope this helps anyone deciding to give this a try, currently under $20.

I needed some sealant for an alkali oxygen-hydrogen (separate stream) electrolysis device. Such devices are typically operated with around 10-30% potassium hydroxide by weight in solution, which means that everything inside the cells is exposed to an extremely strong alkali solution for months or years on end.

Mastic rubber is one of a relatively limited number of sealants capable of enduring such harsh conditions. I applied 4 successive thick coats of Flex Seal White Spray to the internal joints of the PVC electrolysis cells after I initially hot glued them into place (also decent for strong alkali but needed further sealing to prevent gas leakage), waiting at least 12 hours between applications.

The result was a highly uniform and tightly adhering continuous layer of mastic rubber, reasonably thick and bright white, matching the rest of the cell components. I did not observe any indication of leakage, peeling, cracking, or any other form of failure.

Industrial references indicate that mastic rubber materials tested survived continual exposure to 50% or higher slurries of potassium hydroxide indefinitely, exceeding my requirements. Hopefully it will continue to hold up well in ongoing use.

I do not anticipate any issue given observations and research to date.

I bought this item to caulk around the edge of a pool skimmer which was underwater. It comes in a plasticized container that does NOT work well with a typical caulk gun because the bottom of the container does not move well against the sides of the cylinder.

The material is NOT like caulk – it is like incredibly adherent, sticky glop that gets all over everything – the surface you are working with, your hands , the caulk gun – everything. I spent as much time cleaning up the mess and my hands as I did doing the caulking job!!!.

This product sealed a 2″ long by 1/8″ wide crack in an inlet opening at the deep end of my inground pool. I had been chasing down a serious water leak for about 2 months and discovered the crack location by accident.

I did not want to remove all the water and found magic leak on Amazon. The product works underwater as advertised. The chaulk is unforgiving, where ever you put it it stays, smears and is somewhat challenging to remove.

An hour later it is there to stay, keep that in mind. If you have an underwater leak, crack or want to adhere anything under water this is the product you need 100%.

Seems to work. I had a pretty big crack between the Gunite wall and skimmer. I first tried to apply it with a gloved hand and it stuck to my glove like crazy and kept pulling away from my attempted repair.

I then put “Strips” along the space using only the caulking gun and that seemed to work better. Hopefully it will cure to a less sticky surface and I can touch up any missed spots. Again using only the caulking gun.

I got this stuff in hopes that I could repair my favorite raincoat after the arm had been torn. It worked like a charm. I was worried that since I was going to be patching a sleeve that it might seep through the tear and attach to the other side of the sleeve.

I put some wax paper on the external tear site and I sprayed some patch onto the inside of the sleeve. I gave it the evening to dry. My two concerns were: 1) How tacky it would be if my skin were to come in contact with it 2) would it be able to hold the frayed edges together so that it wouldn’t be noticeable on the outside.

I felt no real difference from the raincoat that wasn’t patch and the area that was patched. First concern was not an issue. I have to really look to see where I patched it on the sleeve. Everything is holding well and it is waterproofed.

The tear was only about 2″ long so it was not huge but it was definitely large enough to give me a soaked arm when it rained. Since I have patched the sleeve I have no leaky arm.

Still working on it. I have a crack on the side of the pool. Peeble Crete Pool, still trying to see if its working. Have used 1 bottle so far and will wait and see. I really hope it solves the problem.

I have squirted it direct on the crack and put the rest in the filter box as directed. Waiting to see. 2nd report. I need to wait for a storm to fill the pool so I can use the 2nd bottle I purchased.

I need the pool full and I’m not going to fill it out of the tap. I have a divertor from the roof so it doesn’t take long to fill if we get some rain. Ever. At this stage I’m very pleased. Will let you know.

Great follow up guys.

Our indoor spa developed a small leak from underneath. Our local spa specialist advised that to properly find and repair the leak would require draining the spa, raising it on blocks, partially refilling, running the pump, locating the leak, marking its position, draining the spa, turning it on its side, digging into the foam, hopefully finding an obvious crack or defect and repairing it.

Refoaming around the repair was optional. Of course, hoping the repair was successful and it was the only leak. While searching for the weight of the spa empty to determine how hard it would be to get up on blocks, I happened across this stop leak product with mainly glowing reviews.

Reading about the failures, I made the assumption that some leaks are just outside the effective realm of this products useful range. I was hoping our leak would be exactly what the product was intended for.

For the very reasonable cost of this product, I figured, what’s the harm. It works, I’ve saved a lot of work and the $60. an hour spa specialist repair rate. So, I ordered one bottle, understanding that should allow two or three treatments.

Wow, I think the bottle arrived within one or two days. I removed the filters, turned the pump on and poured 1/3 of the bottle into the area where the filters go. Ilet it run for several hours. It’s been almost a week now and no leak! Obviously, it’s too soon to know if this is a long term solution to our leak, but so far so good! For the price, even IF I need to retreat once or twice a year, that is better than the alternative.

Fingers crossed :-).

I have leakage at the return line of my swimming pool and did the procedure once, it last for couple of weeks and the leak returned, did the same procedure twice and the leak returned again. Procedure: 1.

closed the return valve at the pump so the line separated from the pump. 2. closed all the return nozzle so the water is kept in the return line. 3. tied a flex hose with a bucket attached to it to one of the return nozzle.

4. elevated the bucket 5 feet high so the water in the bucket would pressure the closed return line. 5. filled the hose at the bucket with the product. 6. kept the bucket filled so the water and product would go through the leak for over 10 hours, the leak was not so bad and the bucket was almost empty after 10 hours but the hose was filled with water and the product remaining in it.

7. after 10 hours the leakage stopped and the water in the bucket didn’t lower. 8. left the set for another 24 hours. 9. started the return line and it was ok, 10. a week later the leakage returned.

Had to re-cement the main drain in an indoor pool and after it was completed the water level was going down slightly over a few days. Poured Fix a Leak into the pool directly above the main drain without the pump running so the product fell directly into the drain.

Could see it slowly being drawn in through the grate. Leak stopped within 24 hours and a week later is still holding. Excellent product.

Had multiple leaks and tried everything to repair it. After using this product iam sold. I instantly saw this product work as I poured it in . Very impressed and highly recommend this product

Had a leak in our hot tub and the pipes are encased in foam insulation so we tried a bottle of Marlig Fix A Leak and voila! It no longer leaks. We followed the directions very carefully and then waited a couple of days to see if the water level would go down before using.

Now we are back to soaking in comfort and enjoying the tub again.

I sprayed the can around a porcelain sink and washer that was slightly leaking every time I let water drain from my sink. it’s a brand new Washer brand new sink. it’s sprayed on running and I waited 24 hours before I use the sink and I just ran a little water in it and it didn’t leak then I sprayed another coat over that and waited 8 hours.

the next morning while I was shaving and running water in the sink it ran again so I guess my solution is epoxy. the product was very runny but it did dry smooth but it didn’t cure the problem.

Walmart. com listed “FlexSeal” in stock at my local store – which was the product I was looking for since I have had such great results many times in the past. When I got to the store, this LeakSeal was the only product the store carried so I took a chance and purchased two cans.

What a mistake! Sprayed 1st can (returning 2nd!) on some leaking mortar joints on a concrete block wall and all the product did was bead up and orange peel!. Never again. JUNK. Buyer Beware.

Even though the product says it’s an external leak sealer it isn’t. so all the people who keep giving it bad reviews saying it won’t stop a leak need to understand this. What this product is in fact is just a good jointing compound to be used when you are making a compression joint or threaded joint.

And if used in that way it is very successful. I’ve always had some in my toolbox for the last 15 years. What you can’t do with LSX is just smear it on the outside of fitting or a pipe which has a leak and expect it to work miracles.

‘Because I’ll tell you now it won’t do that and it will be a complete waste of your time and money if that’s all you’re buying it for. The only annoyance with this product is the little cheap plastic cap which doesn’t properly seal the tube once it’s been opened and can actually split if you screw it on too hard.

This means a lot of the product hardens in the tube. And you’ve wasted a lot of what is quite an expensive product For the size of the tube.

Having swapped a couple of radiators to tall aluminium verticals I couldn’t get one connection to stop leaking. The connections were straight cut, with an O ring at the back end of the threads, that really would just deform if overtightened, either with the O ring on or off it wouldn’t stop.

I remade the connection a few times with jointing compound & PTFE tape but it always continued to leak & even getting a magnifying glass on it I could not see where the problem was. Having read the reviews for this product it sounded as if it would solve the issue & it did.

I applied it to the threads, wound some PTFE tape on & then applied another layer, left it to dry overnight – no more leaks! As someone else stated it is silicone & not a putty / paste type compound, it is easy to work with & clean up afterwards.

Wish I had taken note of 1 star comments before buying. An existing push fit joint on cold water connection onto isolating flexible connection, leaked after I had replaced a shower pump. Used plumbers mate initially to reduce to infrequent drip.

The main cold water valve in loft would not seal to allow isolation, so I thought I would try this leak sealer. The sealer is soft and has to be taped on as recommended, ended up making the leak worst and was a complete waste of time.

The whole point of a leak sealer is that it can be used in situ without having to drain down. If you have to drain down to use then you would just just change the fitting rather than sealing, which is what I did by draining the completed water tank.

Please select lowest rating ad see all other failure reviews.

I was looking for a product that would seal the spaces where my outside water lines enter my camper to help with insulation and weather proofing. The area was not huge but just enough to allow cold air to seep in and I did not want to take any chances as temperatures frequently dip into single digits.

I found the flex seal worked well in this application. It was easy to administer the appropriate amount for the area I was working on. The product comes in an aerosol can with a standard push button spray nozzle.

I would have liked the product to come with a connecting straw which would help get into smaller cracks. As it is there’s little control on how much of an area is sprayed due to the nozzle. Overall the Flex Seal worked nicely.

It is dispensed in liquid form which helps it get into the nooks and crannies and then dries into a rubber-like consistency. I had to do a couple of applications to build the product up and waited 24 hours before coating.

The can recommends 24 to 48 hours between. I found the seal to be fully cured about 48 hours after applying. The instructions also state the dried seal can be painted over, but I selected the black color which matched the hole protectors in my RV; therefore, I did not need to paint.

The Flex Seal liquid rubber sealant really does live up to its name! I used the Flex Seal on a damaged black vinyl downspout by applying layers to create a nice water tight seal where there was a cut along the extension connection point.

This worked out great in my case because my Flex Seal is black which just blended in with my black vinyl downspout. I applied about five coats to get a nice water tight seal which looked seamless! When starting off, I found that applying little goes a long way especially because the damage I was repairing was just a cut/slit across the vinyl.

As indicated on the can, definitely need to use the spray in a well ventilated space and/or outside. Certainly not the most pleasant smell, but I would expect nothing less; would recommend using a mask if you don’t want to inhale any fumes.

I was impressed with how well this worked on vinyl as it bonded well against the material. I can foresee multiple applications that the Flex Seal spray can be used for and look forward to using this on other applications around the house.

This is certainly a great item to have around the house not only for crafts but also for emergencies to fix any leaks.

I had several leaks for over a year from my 1979 classic car. First I tried this product on the pinion seal at the front of the differential and it stopped that leak. I just followed the directions and washed down the area with brake cleaner first, then I began spraying about 4 or 5 light applications of Permatex.

I did NOT pre drive the car as the instructions state. Then after about a week of no more leaking I decided to try spraying about 4 or 5 small oil leaks from the engine and the fly wheel rear main seal area.

Again I washed down the areas with brake cleaner, did NOT pre drive the car, and began spraying about 4 applications of Permatex. After 4 days now there are no leaks in those places either. I would suggest using disposable rubber gloves as it takes a long time for the stuff to come off bare hands.

I have now been able to finally remove cardboard to catch leaks from under the car. Wife is even truly amazed that this product worked as it states. I highly recommend it for a try as it’s better than replacing a seal and changing cardboard from the garage floor spotted with dripping oil and grease from the car.

I really like it when a product actually does what it’s made to do.

Had a leaking timing chain cover on my 2009 CX7. Lots of work to remove and with high mileage more concerned about breaking something else. Leaks started to be more noticeable over time. Decided to give this a try.

Cleaned the area with Lots of brake cleaner, let dry and wormed up engine. Sprayed on last time before trying this. Used 5 coats about 2 minutes apart. Not only is there no drip after 3 months no loss of oil.

2 notes mask areas and wear rubber gloves and old clothes.

I had my doubts! Oil pan leaking on my suv. Need to pull engine to replace oil Pan gasket. I thought I would give this stuff a try. At first I thought it wasnt working sprayed out like water? Slowly it gelled and expanded making a seal.

It bonded strongly to the oil pan and engine. No leaks at all. Been driving the suv for 4 weeks, so far so good. Be cautioned, wear eye protection and cheap gloves. Once it dries it adheres to everything! I honestly thought it would not work, but it did.

I used this on an engine rocker box cradle for a FORD POWERSTROKE (similar to people’s issues with the Cadillac Northstar engines) and it worked great! First emphasis is to clean the area with degreaser, parts cleaning brush, and wire brush; clean the application area at least 5 times using these tools! Pressure wash the area, a high pressure garden hose will do.

if there’s still any sign of grime or oil, you must continue step one and clean again! Clean the area larger than the affected area as well. Once the area is clean, start the engine and warm it up to “operating temperature” heck, even 30 mins.

to make sure. Shut engine off and clean the affected area with brake cleaner (if that’s where your leak is it should be wet with oil). Brake cleaner will blow the oil away as it evaporates on your now hot engine.

Spray the product in a steady motion, in both directions over the affected areas. U may wipe once on the first coat only, lightly with a clean cloth only to help remove bubbles formed, but not necessary.

Then spray multiple coats each 1 to 2 mins. apart, it’s important that you don’t wait longer than this as the engine still needs to keep the same temperature as the first coat. Put about 5 or more coats in the areas needed.

Finished. U have just sealed the leaking area of the engine! I just want to add that there’s reasoning behind every step of the process, and the timing of it. Don’t deviate! All the reviews of this stuff not working on engines are due to improper: cleanliness, heating up of engine before application (too cool), amount of coats, and again cleanliness.

!!! Lastly, with wherever you’re applying this product make sure the two mating parts are tight, if they are loose (ie. loose bolts/fasteners) then this will not work.

Man! I wish I would have taken pictures!! I bought this bright and clear liquid because my hot tub kept getting so cloudy. I faithfully clean my filters, check my chemical levels and treat as needed.

In fact my pH, alkalinity, total chlorine, free chlorine and water hardness levels were all exactly where they needed to be. I kept shocking the water daily to see if it would clear up. It did a little.

It just got delivered this evening and I went out and put 2oz in my tub. I used a glass measuring cup to measure. (Side note: I agree with other reviews; getting the lid off was insane!!!! There’s got to be a better way!!!) I turned on the jets and blowers as the directions stated.

The scum immediately began to coagulate and gather. It reminded me of boiling chicken and having to skim the scum off the top. It was so gross! I had no idea this was all in my tub. (To be fair, we have only had our tub 2 months and are still learning) I did help my filters by skimming a lot of it out and then rewashed my filters.

After 20min my water was crystal clear! This product made a believer outta me! Oh, one more thing, I read complaints about the fragrance. I have to say, I’m EXTREMELY sensitive to scents and perfumes; the scent of this to me was very soft and clean and not overwhelming at all.

I highly recommend it. If you’re doubting buying it like I was, buy it and try it! Incredible stuff!.

I have been using Leisure Time products since we purchased our hot tub 3+ years ago, and had been happy with their bromine tablets. But the last canister I ordered doesn’t seem to be performing as well as the previous tabs I used.

These are breaking down much quicker, spiking the bromine level in our water. With our set up, I put the tabs into a cartridge that fits inside the filter. I am able to adjust how much water flows through and I’ve dialed down to the lowest setting but still having problems.

I’m not sure if they changed the product or if this batch were truly from Leisure Time. I plan to buy my next container at the store where I purchased our hot tub to see if they are better before deciding if we need to switch to a new product.

Had a bad leak in my 21 year old spa. In February 2021, I was adding water every two weeks to keep the water level up enough so the pumps could run. Tried another product (pools and spas) a few weeks ago, but it didn’t work.

Leak got worse. I was now adding water on a weekly basis. I was worried about draining the spa when outside temperatures were below freezing, as this could do more harm than good. I decided to keep adding water weekly.

I looked online and saw Leisure Time ZJ Leak Seal for spas but not pools. I thought what the heck, and tried it. I checked the next day and thought the leak might have stopped, but I wasn’t sure. I didn’t take note of the current water level.

So I tried a second dose, taking a picture of the water level this time. I also dried the area around the spa, and placed paper towels around the spa. The next day the leak had stopped and the paper towels were dry.

I applied the third and final dose just to use the bottle up. Thanks.