20 Best High Torque Starter Harley (2023 Updated)

As stated in some other reviews, had to grind a spot on the block but not a huge ordeal. Just used my Dremel and carbide cutter, maybe 20 minutes max. Actually installed my Hedman Elite extreme duty header from the topside! Slide right in after unbolting passenger mount and jacking up the engine a couple inches.

Starts right up with my Keyless ignition and Holley Sniper EFI. Engages flywheel perfectly.

Starter works great and resolved my heat sink problem completely. During the install discovered that the starter motor engaged the block not allowing it to fit flatly in the starter hole. Used a die grind on a small area on the block and it installed perfectly.

Pictures included. Installed on a ’66 Ford Fairlane GT with GT 390 FE Block, FPA Headers and 4 speed transmission. Starter is clocked from factory to put the cable between the starter and inside of the block completely away from the headers.

This starter was very easy to install with the FPA Headers. Absolutely no issues there. Headers did not need to be removed. No inner shim ring required or external shim. I bought Summits starter jumper since the solenoid is on the fender not requiring the solenoid on top of this starter.

A jumper is not included by Powermaster which is why I bought Summits. Starter looks good. Sounds like a high performance starter and a little like a Mopar starter. All good. It works. I needed tech help initially so the Powermaster Tech guys were right with me.

Very helpful especially their starter specialist JR Richmond. It your starter cranks when cold but will not when it is hot, than this starter will resolve it. Mike Brattland El Cajon, Ca.

Product was good, looked to be solid and well built. Unfortunately it is not a direct fit without some modification. Attempted to install in a 66 Fairlane with 390/ long tube header set up. Cleared the header fine on that side.

The design of the starter has a bowed out section on the solenoid which causes it to come in contact with the block. It is clock-able and an application without headers it may work fine since you could clock it to that side.

With the headers you need to clock it towards the block where it then comes in contact. As other reviews state its not an extreme amount but some of the block would need grind down to allow a proper fit.

In the end found that the Robbmc starter (similar price) has the solenoid set back enough to clear the block. Unfortunately this one did not.

This starter is just what you need for higher compression motor mine is 11:1, tight clearances, or heat soak issues. Many say ford starters do not need to be shimmed but it states in instructions you may need to.

Back plate may be in poor shape or if you run without back plate then shim needed. tolerances may be off also. Current setup is a early 80s 302 with C4 smaller bell housing and 157 tooth flex plate. Mine needed to be shimmed was hanging up just a little my back plate was bent pretty good.

Starts car amazing every time no heat soak issues you won’t be disappointed.

Installed on a 67 Cougar with a 289 and C4. It solved my hot start issue. Feels significantly lighter than original Ford starter and has good header clearance. Appears well made. I have a trunk mounted battery and it turns the engine very well.

I heat wrapped it for longevity. I’ve only had it a few days, so I hope it lasts. Good first impression.

This starter cranks very well. Fit in my 65 Mustang with a 302 engine and manual clutch. I have a 157 tooth flywheel. I measured from the engine separator plate to the front edge of the flywheel ring gear teeth and came up with 11/16ths.

This starter works in that range.

Ok so first of all I want to express how wonderful the powermaster 9500 works 5 years later on my 57 Chevy. That being said, I went with the 9502 for my nova and have had nothing but trouble. I’m on my 3rd one now and despite the 1/4” stack of shims, it still fails to start my car 75% of the time.

The first one bolted up without a shin and worked incredible for a month, but then failed. Summit was awesome and sent another one. Second one worked 2 days and failed. Third one (current) has an extremely hard time engaging the flexplate and has required using a stack of shims and wants to make slight contact with the flexplate while engine is under load.

I had to cut a shim in half longways to angle the pinion down slightly. My flexplate has also been chewed up in a section. Summit was awesome through this all but powermaster seemed shocked that their starters weren’t perfect.

This third one works 1/4 times regardless of wngine temps etc. I have to crawl under the car and physically pull the pinion onto the flexplate and then hit the key. Idk what has happened in the 5 years since I put the 9500 on the 57, but it seems powermaster has slipped or outsourced.

My advice: if you have to add a stack of shims or you start having no starts with this, then immediately return it and go with a different manufacturer. Sorry for the bad review, but this has been awful for 2 years almost now, and I’m not thrilled about having to remove the engine to change a flexplate.

Matt.

Although pricier than a standard starter, this one was worth it. I installed a remote starter solenoid on the fender and still had sluggish starts when the engine was hot. Now with the new Powermaster 9502, it cranks just as strong with a cold or hot engine.

Plenty of torque. Amazing as it is actually smaller than a stock starter. Technology at work. (installed on a ’69 Camaro small block).

I replaced my stock starter for this Powermaster XS Torque Starter 9502 in my 1965 Corvette Roadster which has a 502ci. BB Chevy motor. I am impressed. First, because the 7 quart, deep sump oil pan was too big for my stock GM starter, this starter fit perfectly.

Second, the powerful torque easily cranks the motor effortlessly. Third, because of it’s small size, it was very easy to install.

Very happy with the product. The infini-clock function for locating the starter in the optimum position seems like a great Idea but for my application was only able to instal in one position with a good deal of difficulty.

I read reviews that mentioned the same problem with the upper mounting bolt and they replaced it with a stud and nut. The starter works great, has plenty of torque and I no longer have the dreaded heat bleed problem when it gets hot here in the dessert.

1967 Mercury cougar,302, headers.

I haven’t installed it yet but it looks like it will suit my application without any issues. Certainly well crafted. Perfect for my 64 Cyclone, small block Ford, 4R70W tranny upgrade. I do wish that Powermaster would include the jumper wire as part of the package.

What would say. another $10. 00 added to the cost of such an expensive starter.

just replaced my still working 15 year old 164 tooth Powermaster starter with a 157 tooth Powermaster starter. Cranks over the 410 easily, even with a trunk mounted battery. same 15 year old one-wire Powermaster 100A alternator too.

Summit delivered, for free, within 30 hours of ordering.

Have 1969 Lemans with 455, Edelbrock round port heads and Dougs headers. Test fit starter, had to re-clock to the other position to clear headers. Had very slight interference with oil pan rail, made small adjustment to pan rail.

Have not powered up or started engine yet but seems to fit ok. Product looks nice and appears well made.

When I first tried to install this starter the solenoid hit my Doug’s D521 headers. I was able to re-clock the solenoid but and the solenoid clears now but the starter body now hits the rim of the oil pan.

Sending it back. Poor fit.

I used the Ixx starters and have always had issues. I used this one based off of forum feedback and didn’t need any of the shims works with Dougs headers and has plenty of room GREAT start power, hot or cold i’ve used powermaster products before and have never had an issue.

VERY good quality only gripe i can say is install wise, just two clockable settings, but it worked, and puts the solenoid uptop, compared the Ixxx ones i’ve had just makes the install a little more challenging for those with pleasantly plump hands lol.

This starter is perfect for my 1979 chevy c10 pickup. Perfect fit, works great, and this is what I really needed. I will continue doing business with Speedway motors. If you don’t take a chance, you don’t stand a chance.

I took a chance on this starter and it worked out exactly the way I needed it too. Perfect fit and very good product.

I have bought three of these, each for a different car (all three gen. 1 SBC). I bought the three starters over the course of approximately 18 months; includes shims, starter bolts, and clear instructions, which is nice.

The first two starters bolts where about 1/8 to 1/4 inch too long. The third and latest starter included bolts, which were the perfect length (the bolts are decent and include knurls). I did not need to shim or clock “any” of the three starters for my applications.

Each time I ordered the same exact part number. The first starter was a dull satin finish. The second starter was a black finish. The third and latest starter came with more of a polished finish. I find the variance in finish a bit “strange” but not a deal breaker; unless you are expecting something specific.

Bottom-line, these are excellent starters and each solved the “heat soak” and “hot start” issues of the previous starters. The side mount wiring lugs are easy to get to. They take up “way” less space and easily start my mild to more wild performance engines.

This was installed in an 86 Corvette, Small Block with long tube headers, manual transmission. All the rebuilt stock starters (mostly rebuilt in china) could not take the heat being so close to the headers and would get heat soaked.

Instead of going with a brand new stock type starter ($$$) I decided to try this mini because the price was about what I was paying for the last rebuilt unit. Fit was good, I did have to remove the shim between the starter motor and the mounting plate because the pinion was too far from the flywheel, probably due to my flywheel being resurfaced and it is shimmed out from the crankshaft about.

060″. There was also some interference with the oil pan flange so I had to notch the aluminum mounting plate about an 1/4″ but that was no big deal. What is a pain in the butt is there is no way on this car with a one piece bellhousing that you can measure the gap between the pinion and the Flywheel gear teeth.

I installed without the included shims and it did not sound quite right so I added a shim and there was a noticeable difference and I left it that way. Where I used to have about. 030″ between the starter motor and the header tube I now have about 2 inches.

There is plenty of room for a heat shield now if I should need it. One complaint, and it is minor – the ignition switch wire does not mount onto a stud with a nut as is typical with most starters I have used.

This one uses a small bolt and it’s close to the top of the solenoid. You have to be a bit of a contortionist to try to attach it, luckily there is room because the motor is so much smaller but it takes some time to get it tightened.

Also, Made in USA which I always try to look for. But, no stickers in the box.

My friend installed this for me. 1977 shortbox truck w/ 454 big block chevy. He is a 30+ year auto technician and has a truck with the same motor combination. During the install and setup, we noticed that when the starter gear was engaged, it wobbled a little.

I read almost 200 reviews and we made sure to loctite the solenoid bolts as well as the clocking bolts, before installing. Lots of reviews mentioned them coming loose and causing issues. Everything was set up according to the instructions.

From the start it made some noise and progressively got worse. Starter was in the truck less than 24 hours and had only a few starts on it, before we removed it. You could see the starter gear had got a few nicks from the gear wobbling.

I returned this and bought an MSD Dynaforce starter. Starts right up now. Very disappointed because powermaster has a good reputation. But of the almost 200 reviews I read, there were a few that had similar issues.

I hate doing things twice, wasting time and money. Spend a little more money and buy the MSD Dynaforce.

Used this starter on a new GM 350 crate engine (and new flexplate) with 9:1 compression and had problems from the beginning with the pinion sometimes not engaging the flywheel gear but just grinding against it.

Tried re-adjusting with shims which made no difference. The starter mounting bolts do not have a locating knurl so the starter alignment is not precise. Called the Powermaster tech support and was told I probably was not getting full voltage to the starter.

They said I needed 12 volts to the starter during cranking. Well after checking other sources found out that an engine normally only gets about 10. 5 volts when cranking and their instructions say the starter needs only about 9.

6 volts minimum to engage so I should have been good. Battery ground cable runs directly to the engine block. Checked the voltage and it was about 10. 5 at the battery and starter while cranking so that was normal.

The voltage drop on the battery cable was within spec. Replaced the ignition switch and ran larger wire to the solenoid and still had the problem. Finally gave up and bought another brand of starter with a larger solenoid and knurled mounting bolts and now it works fine.

I think the Powermster starter solenoid just was not powerful enough even for a mild 350 engine and the sloppy mounting bolts do not align the starter well enough. Would not buy this starter again or rely on their tech support for accurate information.

They are just defending an inferior product. They said I could ship the starter back to them at my expense to be checked but it came with a test sheet that showed it had already passed their tests. Buy another brand with a larger solenoid and knurled mounting bolts to save yourself time, hassle, aggravation and money.

Quality of this starter is very low!! Powermaster manufacturing with malfunction. Recived brand ” new” with altered solenoid connector and bolt heads showing excessive wear. SHAME!!!!!. Shop confirmed its batch of them like mine.

DO NOT BUY.

Great starter! Cranks over my 468 stroker Pontiac engine in my 1967 GTO like it’s not even trying. I had a 3655 hi torque starter that only lasted 2 years and it struggled. This starter does not struggle at all! Beware if you are running HO manifolds like myself the positive terminal is about 1/2” away.

I put some heat wrap over it to prevent an arc out.

There was a problem with the first unit I received, which is why I didn’t give a full 5 stars. The holes in the mounting block weren’t large enough for the bolts to fit through. Jegs’s customer service took care of everything without a hassle.

The replacement works great. The best feature is the infinite adjustment to the clocking position to fit properly between the block and long tube headers. One other observation: The mounting block on this unit is quite a bit different in dimensions compared to the stock Pontiac starter.

It looks like it’s off by almost a half inch, but it bolted in place without any shimming.

I had a mechanic install the starter on my 72 Ford Ranchero 429/460 block. Motor was started less than 30 times. Recently I was hearing a grinding sound while starting the motor. I went underneath and the entire outer housing of this starter was moving around due to one of the two long screws holding the housing in place coming loose.

I would not recommend buying this starter.

Purchsed the XS about a month back to replace the Powermax on which the bendix had failed. In a 14. 25 compression Big Block Ford, and a 16V system, the Powermax spun the engine fine cold. Hot, it was a little sluggish, understandably being rating at10.

1 CR. Surprisingly, the XS actually doesn’t seem to perform any better when there is heat in the engine and is rated at 18. 1 CR. The clocking option for mounting has proven to be great function, and necessary, with large headers.

Overall, a decent value.

Put this on a BBF 460 in my boat. so it has to start the boat with the drag from the impeller as well. Locked out timing. First thing is its half the size of a stock starter. It spins the motor fast even in the water, even with 38* of timing.

my old starter took a lot of power to turn the motor over and got the wires hot if you cranked to long. This thing takes almost no power and spins fast. Also power cable is on top but leans out and down, so easy to route cables away from headers and oil pans.

I love my new pro-form mini high torque starter, I was removing a pro-form starter so was a direct match for my 1967 Chevy C-10, it came with good instructions new bolts and even a new electrical clip for my ignition lead wire and starts my GM 350 with ease.

I would give them five stars as I paid for fast delivery, and it left the warehouse the same day I ordered it, but then it got held up in a Oakland mail depot for three days, not cool.

If this starter fits perfectly out of the box (with correct offset and gear spacing), you should be OK. But, if you need to make any adjustments, forget trying to follow the instructions that come with the starter.

The instructions leave a lot to be desired. I finally got mine adjusted properly, but I HAD TO DISASSEMBLE THE STARTER THREE TIMES TO FIGURE OUT HOW TO DO IT CORRECTLY! After installation, the starter seems to work fine so far.

This is one of the best race starters we’ve ever purchased great product will probably be purchasing more soon!

I ordered the 3/4” starter a while ago for my 351w in a 1989 F-150 5speed. I then found my truck to have a 3/8 pinion. I sent an exchange slip to summit for the 3/8” starter and they decided to handle it as a return.

So I ordered the 3/8” starter. Installed it in my truck and it won’t crank my motor I removed it and it spins with out issues, and the bendix comes out. Reinstalled it still won’t crank it. I reinstalled the stock starter and it cranks the motor as expected for a high compression engine.

Powermaster XS Torque 9504 description on summit website says 3/4 in offset which is what I needed for my 351C with FMX. Installed and starter would not engage into flywheel far enough. Looking thru internet found that XS 9504 really have a 3/8 in offset.

In the overview description on summit website it does say 3/8 in offset. Going to return XS 9504 and order Powermaster XS 9503 which has the 3/4 in offset I need. Summit should update description correctly for XS 9504.

Starter works great With long tube headers I have super competition headers with a 351 Cleveland and the starter lets you access the bolts And have enough clearance.

i was having issues with soft or long starting problems with my Chevy Silverado 2500 hd , after the initial first crank. I had this problem at least a year , I’ve changed out just about everything in the starting system including spark plugs and all,yes even my starter.

so I was told it was my starter , im like no !!!!!! I changed that starter out about 4 months ago. issues was heat soak , never new anything about that before , so im researching on this issue and looking for a better build starter ,not remanufactured starter neither.

so I came across this powermaster 9509 starter which had good reviews , and one of the key elements that this starter offered was reduced heat soak with high torque, im like yes. order the powermaster 9509 starter and it cranked my truck up like a boss ,I must of cranked my truck up at least 20 times back to back hearing the sweet sound of my truck cranking up with ease.

I am very pleased with this powermaster starter and I will continue to do business with powermaster staters for my trucks. I will follow up with you all in 4 months to let you know how things going with my powermaster.

I wanted to get away from the old AC Delco starter and purchase something that was better made. This started worked out for me but it required some modifications. If you plan to purchase this for your 2011 Silverado LTZ, you will need to cut the solenoid wire connector and place a small terminal connector in its place.

You will also need to use the shims provided. The most important thing you will need to do is modify the bell housing dust plate. I had to cut away the portion where the starter goes. If you do not do this, you will have problems with the teeth not lining up properly.

Starter on my camaro went out. Had this happen 3 times with the OEM starter. I bought this after I was tired of the slow start from heat soaking on the OEM starter. Had a shop install this and I love it.

Strong start even after a hot day with pushing the car. Wrapped a heat sheild around it just fir safe measures and has been doing great after 1 year.

Recently I upgraded my to headers and full exhaust. I started having trouble with my starter cranking over. Apparently the stock GM starters have trouble cranking when they get hot. I was told that these mini starters were the solution being that they can dissipate more heat.

Well that’s not the case. Starter cranks well when cold, but will have trouble cranking after the engine reaches normal temperature. I was told to use a heat shield but the manufacturer states that they don’t recommend it.

?????? So now my options are going back to exhaust manifolds or wrapping my headers with that ugly heat wrap. Just doesn’t make sense.

I have a 1972 GMC Jimmy with a 1969 Chevelle 396 bored. 060 over(409 cubic inches) 10. 25 to 1 compression, a lumpy roller cam, and lots of advance. Also, heddman long tube headers. Got tired of going through parts store OEM China remanufactured starters and stepped up to a Powermaster 9112 starter.

So far, I am completely impressed with the performance of this starter. Should have done this much sooner. Have read some of the other reviews and it is true that the clearances can be difficult to check.

I installed mine ‘straight up’ and it works perfectly. Would recommend.

I bought this for a 1984 Chevy K30 with an ambulance body. I’m building the truck into an overland camper. It’s a stock 454 so this little starter has no problems turning over a stock compression engine.

I bought it because it’s small and easy to service on the trail if necessary. It’s probably 40-50% smaller than a stock starter. You can also rotate (clock) the starter to place the electrical connections in a position that’s easier to access.

You’ll love this if you’ve you ever had to stick your hand between a starter and a blazing hot exhaust pipe. It’s also probably half the weight of a stock starter. Easier to hold onto and quite likely less painful if you drop it on your face! Lastly… USA made.

I intend to get this truck into some deep back-country and I would love to avoid as many part failures as possible.

Paint was chipped off when I took the starter out of the box. More chipped off while handling it to get installed. So that should have been my first indication that it was a piece of junk. This starter LOOKS exactly like the original (minus the paint falling off) and fit just fine.

Once installed the starter was actually WORSE than the one I had replacing. It tuned my 07 Street Glide over just one time and then never worked again. It seems to have some sort of internal short. Thinking that the battery must be the problem (since there’s no way a brand new starter could have been bad right?) I then replaced the battery as well and it still did not function.

Then I re-installed the original starter and the bike now starts again but still starts poorly so I now need to buy ANOTHER starter but certainly not this one! I travel for work so by the time I got all this done I’ve now missed the short 30 day return window.

Their warranty is useless as well. Good luck getting ahold of anyone. Now I have a $150 piece of garbage sitting in the garage that I can’t return. This is a complete piece of junk. Do not buy.

Perfect fit. No issues thank god I bf. I. Do understand. Harley wanted 460! For a starter

Great value for a new, not rebuilt starter. $300. 00 less than a new starter from the dealership. Received the part three days after ordering. Great service and selection of electrical parts. This is now my go to place for electrical parts.

I tried this and another model and they do not line up with the holes on the bell housing due to not enough clearance against the block (’75 Chrysler 400 B, which they are advertised as a compatible application).

That’s a few hours of work and a few days waiting for delivery that I’ll never get back. I will never buy ANY powermaster products. Maybe they should try their own product and buy some rulers as well.

This starter is not powerful enough to start a 15:1 540 CI engine when hot. It struggled to start it cold. But like always SUMMIT took care of it for me and exchanged it for a CVR that has the power.

Cranks the engine and clears the headers, that’s what I needed. The ability to clock the starter was critical for clearing my headers and this did it. Spins my 340 mopar well.

I have not installed this starter..It is my spare in case my starter on my 99 roadking with over 300,000 km on it ever stops working . I bought the starter because it had great reviews.

Was a good fit. Didn’t understand why it was listed as a 1.8 kw starter on the web site but the test sheet that came with it showed it tested at 1.6 kw.

installed this starter. worked perfect great product great price ! would highly recommend !

I had starter to flex plate clearance issues with other low price mini starters (slight wobble on flex plate). This starter came with proper shims. No more flex plate hitting starter drive under load.

Powerful quality starter.

Installed this on a GM 602 crate engine with Shoenfeld headers. The starters I’ve tried before this were more expensive and turn the engine over normally while cool but when hot, it’s a struggle. I haven’t gotten to try this while the engine is hot but it turns the engine over quick and fast enough that the oil pressure builds up to about 40psi just off the starter.

Impressed for $75. I’m giving it 5 stars just on price to performance and ease install. I’ve yet to get to test the longevity.

Customer service offered to send me a kit with the right length bolts but they are back ordered. I haven’t been notified that they shipped yet. They also said they pulled another one off the shelf and it had the wrong bolts as well.

This could be a problem for others.

Absolutely the best dang starter, Bar None. The main reason? POWERMASTER’s instructions. Let me step back in time. My wife’s Pure Stock dirt car, thinking it was something to do with a well used engine, when warm/hot would labor to start, like when you have the timing too far advanced, the starter that replaced the OEM starter was a, “Remanufactered In China” Napa High Torque, which was bought on a Saturday morning before a race (the good ole’, “just get it running, so it can race.

”). Sure, the following description had a lot to do with its demise, but I vowed, it WOULD be replaced with a; “MADE IN THE USA”. Well, race car has the battery behind the drivers seat with Master switch in between it and the starter.

Many people are probably like, “It’s electrical 101”, however, POWERMASTER’s insructions remind Purchaser, the gauge of wire needed for distance. As soon as I saw that, BOOM. I was such a dummy! Ran some 1/0 wire, with large lugs needed for it, also 2 other, 4 gauge Grounds.

This starter spins like no other, Hot, Cold, or a mad engine, it fires right up. Thank You, Powermaster for a fantastic Made In the USA product with Excellent instructions and description of power output sheet.

It is a Badboy! Hands down, well worth the money. I would have saved so much money and TIME, (replaced Flex Plate, distributor gear, timing chain, double checked valve lash. ), if I would have purchased Made In The USA, the 1st Time.

So far so good. Had an old mini starter that worked well on my sbc. On the bbc, just didn’t have it. Work ok when the engine was cold, but once hot, it struggled. I do have a remote solenoid, so that was not the problem and 00 gauge battery cables.

Bottle line, this starter is almost the exact same size, meaning I hard no problem getting it installed but kicks butt. It does what other people say, no problem cranking over my 10 3/4 comp solid roller 454.

One of the few parts I’m truly happy that a stepped up and spend the extra bucks for.

I bought the $100. Off brand. After installed I used it 3 or 4 times on new 454. After that starter refused turn engine. I bought this power master. Its like night an day difference. It turns engine over very quickly and has no hesitation.

When I buy next starter it will be a power master with out a doubt.

This is the second 5098 starter I have had. The first broke the snap ring that holds the engagement gear in place. Replaced without any questions. I have had this one for a couple of years now and the same thing happened.

I only drive the car a few times a month. I am very disappointed in this starter and can’t replace it with another one of the same without some input. Very disappointed. (340 Mopar) Kurt.

The small wire connection spins with any attempt to tighten the nut and breaks the solder connection inside. I had to remove the starter again and re-solder the connection. The plastic lug should not be round, should be square or triangular so it is not allowed to spin.

I should have sent it back!.

Awesome starter, spins my 14 to 1 500″ mopar easily. I had to grind a little off the side of the starter where it was hitting the block. Took all of 90 seconds. Could be because I run a ultrabell with studs to secure the starter.

Make sure it’s sitting flat against the bell housing or it will tear something up quick.

Fiitment issue, not a quality issue. Starter is a compact version which should work, according to make/year/engine. Installed easily and could be heard turning, but would not engage with flywheel. Removed and reinstalled several times.

With only one bolt and one nut to attach it is nearly impossible to misalign. Bench tested fine. Ended up going to local parts store who physically matched up another part which was nearly identical to the original – and it worked fine.

Summit had a hassle-free return process.

These starters are great. I have a 1977 Dodge American Clipper class c motor home. It has a 440 where the stock exhaust manifolds had many hairline fractures in them. Replaced them with Headman headers seeing as there is no stock replacements available.

It still had the stock starter. I tried to remove the starter but there is no room. I had to pull the plugs, drain the cooling system and drop the header. Looked online for a smaller starter and found one at Simmit Racing site.

Ordered it and was pleasantly surprised at how well it fit. No shimming and there is plenty of room to R&R the starter in the future. Looks well made and has a powerful motor. It’s a little pricey but it’s worth it.

Happy camper.

Great starter, but the high voltage electrical post and or nut must be shortened to prevent grounding out against engine block. Also, the wiring should be connected prior to installation of the starter, and the starter installed prior to the final bolting of headers, if headers are used.

However, the wiring posts can still be accessed by rotating the starter.