Best Wireless Channel For 5Ghz (2024 Updated)

This router is a great entry level Wi-Fi 6 router. Speeds are great and it’s been pretty reliable. My only real gripe with it (and the reason I’m giving it 4 stars) is the requirement of using the Linksys app to setup the router.

It took me way too long to set it up as the app refused to let me sign up for an account (something you really should NOT need on a local device) and I was forced to do it from the Linksys website. Then it kept refusing to acknowledge that my modem was connected and just kept saying I had no internet connection.

Any attempt to try and set up the router the old fashioned way (through the default gateway address) just led to more frustration as it just tells you to download the app. Overall good hardware (especially for the $100 I paid for it) but just an awful software experience.

For anyone without a good understanding of how to troubleshoot technical issues, steer clear of this thing. However if you can get past the hurdles of setup I would recommend it. (As long as it’s on sale).

The first bad sign was when it took multiple attempts to get it to connect during setup. Once I got it set up and running, everything seemed great, and it was generally showing between ~1-1. 2Gbps, though it frequently dropped to a few hundred for some unknown reason and required me to disconnect and reconnect to go back up to 1Gb+ again.

The main reason I got it was so I could connect a 5-bay USB HDD enclosure and access the drives over the network, and it worked seamlessly, and so I thought all was good. Immediately, though, I started having issues with disconnects while transferring or reading data to/from the drives.

Because of this, it took me over a week to do what should have taken a couple days, because I had to keep restarting things after they would run for hours only to fail due to a disconnect. Twice when it happened I was lucky enough to see it happen, which allowed me to go check on the router and see that it was booting up, meaning it was randomly restarting on a regular basis.

Unfortunately, this joke of a router has basically no troubleshooting capabilities built in, not even having such a basic feature as uptime to be able to see how long it’s been running and, therefore, how long ago it reset itself.

Even enabling the logs proved fruitless, since there were about six or eight lines after running for a while and rebooting again, so I can only assume it clears the logs on reboot, which obviously makes them useless.

Another issue was that it would randomly not be accessible via IP to access the Velop interface even though I could ping it and had connection to the internet and my drives, and trying a different browser didn’t help, either.

I would have been willing to chalk the issues up to a defective product and try again, but I’m sorry, I’m not going to bother with a “router” that doesn’t even have the most basic of diagnostic tools.

This thing is a pathetic joke and is just destroying Linksys’ name, though I shouldn’t be surprised since it’s now owned by Belkin. Don’t waste your time on this toy.

Years ago we had at least one other Linksys networking device – likely one of our first routers. It performed well enough that I certainly did not rule out another Linksys device when our Apple Time Capsule stopped working.

Within the past year I heard many newer routers were much easier to set up than in the past. Although I would not say this was completely “plug-n-play”, it was easier than I remember – and worked well with both Apple and non-Apple devices.

We have Amazon Echo, Google HomeMini, and even an Apple Home device. All rather seamlessly connected to the router. I liked Apple’s AirPort Utility app, so I was pleased to see Linksys had a similarly visual interface to see which devices were connected to which band (2.

4 GHz or 5. 0 GHz) of the Wi-Fi router. You can select icons to mirror the appearance of your actual devices (i. e. smartphone, TV, Echo), but not every device had a matching icon. I was surprised to see over 30 devices were connected to the router.

Some devices were not easy to identify with the identifying information in the Linksys app. This was definitely not a deal-breaker, but a little frustrating. Our internet went down for a couple of days after installing the AC1900 – not because of the Linksys device, but an ISP issue.

As with any router (and modem), we simply unplugged the network devices and plugged them back in, and we were up and running after the cable company resolved their issues. About a week after buying this router, it went on sale at Best Buy.

Within their price match parameters, Best Buy quickly matched their own price. But even at about $160, this device was worth the price, as it kept me from having to invest hundreds more for a mesh system – we live in a 1,000+ sq ft condominium.

Even the associate at Best Buy felt that would have been overkill.

Works fine for most of the things you want it to do. For required tasks, the WiFi connection is dropped for a split second every ten minutes or so. For gaming, you may be dropped from a game. This happens once every 30 minutes or so.

At other times, you will see a slight lag or glich for a split second. For streaming video on Roku and Home Essentials Direct Fire stick, you will see the video freeze for a second or two. Once every ten minutes, you may lose the stream and the Roku/Fire will take you back to the main menu.

This is really annoying if you are trying to watch a movie, or a Basketball/football game, and the signal drops. Since I have multiple sources wired to a switch (2x game consoles, Roku, AppleTV) when the signal drops, the switch cycles through and searches for a new signal and land on the second streaming device (for example, I will be watching Roku and it will automatically swap to AppleTV, or vice versa) and I would need to manually switch it back.

Slightly annoying. so when I have a gathering, I unplug all the other sources and only have the Roku plugged in. Even if the signal is dropped, the switch stays on the Roku since it has no other sources plugged in.

(This happens with both a Roku media player and a Home Essentials Direct Fire stick so I know it is not the device). Like I said – Slightly annoying.

Easy setup with my AT&T NVG510 Modem router. Works well for my needs. The 5Ghz band covers most of the house a 1 story 4 bedroom approximate 2100sqft. The Router is setup in the front of the house and the 5Ghz band is week in the back bedroom.

The 2. 4Ghz band covers the whole house very well and strong signal. For the cost I can not complain. As I learned more about Routers I rather have a router with more antennas and removable antennas that can be changed out if needed for higher dBm.

I would have purchased a router with the latest 802. 11ax rather than then the 802. 11ac. I am pleased with this purchase. I have not had any dropped signals or anything like that. I do advise with any new hardware you add to your pc always go to manufactures website and download the latest Firmware to update.

Never use a disc that some hardware’s ship with.

The RT-AX56U is reasonably priced router with good range, performance and features. Placed centrally within my 4 bedroom, single-storey home it gives me strong 5GHz coverage to the entire house & most of the 600m2 property.

Where the 5GHz radio doesn’t reach then the 2. 4GHz radio does the job well. WiFi roaming or auto-failover (or whatever the technical term is) between the 5GHz & 2. 4GHz radios, when both using the same SSID, is seamless.

The router has some great features, QoS, VPN, DMZ, parental controls, etc. , most of which I don’t use but it’s nice to know they’re available should I need them. Plus, being an ASUS Ai-Mesh router, there’s the really handy ability to extend WiFi coverage if needed.

Wired, wireless or auto-detect backhaul support to boot. I have tested the Ai-Mesh and it works great. I no longer use it though because it turned out the single RT-AX55U router gave me coverage for the whole house anyway.

The router setup process was impressively easy. It even automatically upgraded it firmware to the latest version as part of the configuration process. impressive. There’s a comprehensive web browser interface or a phone app to manage the router too.

Nice piece of kit. money well spent.

I recently installed a smart internet-connected thermostat. Actually, these types of devices aren’t so smart, they are LAN weak points that are susceptible to hacker attacks. I needed a new router that can separate this and similar devices from my central computing equipment and resources.

This Asus router offers multiple guest accounts which are isolated from my central LAN. I devoted one of those to my thermostat and accomplished my objective. An unexpected benefit has been a significant increase in internet throughput.

My old router tested at about 65Mbps which is consistent with the 60Mbps account I have with Comcast. This new router tests at up to 120Mbps and this is not a measurement fluke, web sites load faster and my Netflix client also reports throughput above 100Mbps.

I’m pleased with this router and its the user interface. Everything was easy to set up and understand. I think I’m going to enjoy this router for several years.

I am using this router for 2 years now, starting from 2021. The first year was great. No issues were found. In the second year, I started to get either “Network access denied” while connecting to Wifi, or “No internet when connected to Wifi”, even after firmware update.

At the beginning, only 1 device has that issue. Getting worse, all of 3 devices have the same issues. Restarting using software or the physical switch won’t resolve the problem until resetting the router.

It usually happens in the morning. If you work at home, I recommend thinking twice before purchasing this model.

If you worried about TP Link, only had one router die after two years of continues service, I suspect that bad surge protector, and bad surge may have caused its demise, but it was running 24/7; so routers have to take a lot of abuse in 24/7 environment.

With 15 years experience in networking, mostly SOHO, and home users; I have used other brands, from well known to not so well known, and TP Link does outperform them in my opinion hands down. G was ok wireless in 2005, (I used wired); 2008 moved to Gigalan wired and Cat 6;been there ever since.

N came to town and saved us from connecting wireless of only 20 ft. in some cases. AC has changed the playing field, finally; wireless that is as strong, maybe stronger than wire. I like TP for pricing and reliability.

Works and doesn’t drop signal, no restarts, only upgraded firmware first time out of box, set it and forget it cause it works. Setting privacy, passwords, renaming it and other features, easy and nice to see.

(if you are new to wireless world, you have to set privacy and passwords to keep neighbor boy from using your bandwidth) or not if you prefer to “hotspot” its users choice. Range, AC has got the range for ya, at roughly 1/2 mile; at 2 bars yeah that’s your range, no joke.

Walls, levels, line of sight issues; of the past, this router says “what issues”, haven’t experienced no drop signals and couple of times that has happened wasn’t due to router, its laptop overheating, being older model.

Other devices was singing along no problem. You wonder how many devices? I’m using 7 on my network, one being a server, and couple added smartphones that guests show up with, all running at same time, and no one noticeing any bandwidth of the others including major download, i’m using heavy cable internet, 70mbps input to Gigalan output.

I don’t use any fancy routing tables or rules, don’t use guest account, I just give password to those that need it, my password I use is simple (five digit name/number) you don’t have to encrypted these things for soho or home use, just change the default to something only you will know.

Always change the default if using wireless, is a must do.

Setup was pretty straightforward and typical of a router. Once modem and router were powered up (in this order), access to the web based gui was as easy as navigating to 192. 168. 0. 1 and logging in.

The gui worked well, was quick and did not require too many reboots in order to save settings. The gui is not as helpful or as user friendly as other routers I have used recently, however it worked and perhaps a firmware upgrade will improve its feature list.

I did notice that I was not able to manually choose bandwidth mode of the 5. 0ghz band, however during testing I noticed that I was able to connect to it at 80mhz without issue. The router I currently use is a first generation draft Asus AC 1750 router and I was keen to test this second generation router against it using a laptop and Asus AC53 usb client.

I always setup my router to use channels 6 (2. 4ghz) and 153 (5. 0ghz), disable wps and enable WPA2 with AES encryption. My laptop sits in my office which is currently 65ft from the router and has two walls between.

I use Totusofts Lanspeed software to send packets of data across my LAN to and from wired computers as well as to and from the laptop wirelessly. I have a full gigabit hardwired network in my office and when using the testing the TP-Link router over Ethernet, Lanspeed recorded maximum speed of 811mbps write and 345mbps read, the Asus router returned a maximum speed of 808mbps write and 516mbps read.

The TP-Link router was actually the faster router at 2. 4ghz, which surprised me as the ASUS supports beamforming. The TP-Link showed speeds of 70. 36mbps write and 112mbps read and at the same location the Asus returned speeds of 61.

56mbps write and 94. 03mbps read. At 5. 0ghz the results were reversed with the Asus router showing faster speeds overall and a better range. I was able to return speeds of 102mbps write and 235. 51mbps read using the TP-Link router at 65ft which is an excellent result, even if beaten by the Asus router.

I have to keep telling myself that this router is half the price of my original AC router and performs just as well. This router is fast, looks great, was reliable in testing, comes with 2 year warranty, 24/7 tech support and is cheap.

I really see no reason for people not to upgrade to AC now that routers like this exist. Recommended.

TP-Link is the wireless-router market share leader in China. I have used a LOT of TP-Link products. They have been reliable and cost-efficient for me. I was a little puzzled by the Archer C5 AC1200 coming out after the Archer C7 AC1750.

The C7 has been out for some time and was the first QCA (Qualcom/Atheros) based AC router sporting three streams (radios) on each band while the C5 supposedly only has two. In other countries the C7 is more expensive than the C5.

Looking at the US pricing it appears that the C5 is just a bit more expensive. Both models look almost identical, with 3 external and 3 internal antennas, Qualcomm/Atheros QCA9558@720MHz, 128 Mb RAM, 16 MB of Flash, and a SOC+Atheros QCA9880v2 Wireless NIC.

When I compared some speed tests on my C5 vs. my C7 the C5 was often faster on 5 GHz. My best guess is that, initially, when the QCA chipset based C7 AC 1750 first came out, there were sporadic reports of dropped connectivity with Broadcom chipset based clients (like apple phones).

There was a firmware upgrade and a hardware change to a v2 QCA9880 chip (from the QCA9880-AR1A chip) and those reports seemed to stop but the name “C7” didn’t get changed. As best I can tell, that may be one reason why there is currently a price differential with the higher spec device selling for a lower price.

The second reason is that their new Broadcom chip based C8 AC1750 model is available – which has similar specs to the C7 (at well over twice the price). PROTOCOL REVIEW In case you are not up to date on wireless technology and don’t have an 802.

11ac router the next best thing is 802. 11n protocol. 802. 11n protocol can be run on either the 2. 4GHz or the 5 GHz radio band. N gets you up to about 150 megabits per “spatial stream” which can be thought of as a 20 MHz radio channel.

The big deal with n is that you can “bond” several “spatial streams” together for increased throughput. Two streams on this router get you 300 Mbit/sec. Some routers can “bond” up to three streams for 450Mbs on a band.

Each stream usually gets its own antenna. This assumes the router is set to n-only mode (“mixed mode” supports legacy devices like B or G protocol. ) If you set “mixed mode” and you have non-N devices on the network, the whole band throughput will slow down dramatically.

Realistic TCP throughput on pure three stream 2. 4 GHz N will max out around 150Mbs under ideal conditions due to TCP protocol overhead when Windows is showing a 450 Mbs connection. Most people set the 2.

4GHz to the most-compatible mixed mode setting and then use the ac-only mode for big files/streaming. Most phones/tablets only do one stream because of limited battery life. The ac protocol can only happen on the 5 GHz band and provides about 433 Mbit/sec per spatial stream.

Newer laptops and some handsets like the iPhone 6, HTC M8, and Galaxy S4/S5 support the ac protocol (it’s less battery power per byte). 5 GHz is less crowded but usually drops off faster than 2. 4 GHZ with di.

Many LTE routers include the ability to utilise modern 4G networks, they typically do not include a key feature being carrier aggregation. However the TP-Link Archer MR600 includes the feature which allows for several mobile frequencies to be used for incoming traffic, resulting in a high speed and very responsive to various demands.

Once the MR600 is setup using the TP-Link Tether application on an Android or iOS mobile device then the router seamlessly determines the best mobile frequencies to be used, thus providing optimal connectivity and throughput/ Overall, the MR600 is highly recommended as an excellent 4G+ LTE router.

Excellent 4G Router for small business. 4G speeds are as expected for the locations tested. Can be configured as a 4G failover for an NBN connection although the default is for 4G only. Configuration change location in the firmware is not obvious but internet searching found the setting location.

Have not used the tech support that was advertised on the box but having 24/7 support is very useful for any product. The connotation “AC 1200” typically refers to the total added max speeds of the 2.

4 Ghz an 5 Ghz bands. So in this case 300 Mbps 2. 4 Ghz + 867 Mbps 5 Ghz = 1167 Mbps total speed rounded up = 1200. Unfortunately most consumers who are unfamiliar with routers make this mistake and think that this speed of 1200 Mbps is available through 1 single connection.

However that is not the case primarily due to speed split over two bands and being that the advertised speed is the theoretical maximum which is never reached. Client devices primarily those being USB 2.

0 connected to PCs and laptops will suffer from a speed limitation on the 5 Ghz band. USB 2. 0 caps out at 480 Mbps theoretical speed thus limiting the 867 Mbps data connection between the client and the router.

A USB 3. 0 client remedies this issue since the link between USB 3. 0 and the PC is 5 Gbps (5000 Mbps). The C5 may utilize beamforming which enhances the signal acquisition and maintenance via directional transmission and reduced interference.

Extremely handy to have especially when using the 5 Ghz band. Speaking of 5 Ghz, it being a a higher frequency is subject to lower range compared to 2. 4 Ghz. The reason is that higher frequencies have trouble penetrating walls and other barriers and range significantly decreases when connecting from another floor of a building.

That was primarily the case with older routers utilizing 802. 11 N via Ghz. However 802. 11 AC increases the range to the inclusion of beamforming which is mentioned above. Overall a solid router which gets the job done and I would definitely recommend this router.

I have an existing Linksys Router with multiple remote boosters and was interested in moving to a true mesh network. This system had high expectations to meet as we have a farm and run wifi cameras out in the barn and horse arena.

The current configuration gets the job done usually but the camera out by the arena loses wifi strength for large points in time. I recently setup a Netgear Nighthawk Mesh Wifi 6 in the main house and that was very seamless and great improved the reliability and speed of internet through the house – I was expecting a similar experience with the Linksys.

It’s been two weeks and I’ve finally gotten Linksys’s mesh setup. The setup was supposed to be simple and easy. But I found pain in every attempt. I was disappointed that the only setup documentation in the package was a business card telling me to download an app, no QR code so I had to take on faith that I picked the right one.

The app continually failed to load the router. My thinking was that the web admin portal would be a valid way of working however when you login to 192. 168. 1. 1 all you get is a referral to use the app: There is ZERO option except to use an app wizard to set this up.

Once I finally got the router recognized by the app and got started with the process I found the process was overly step by step where I could’ve setup the network in 5 minutes each individual step took multiple minutes and to get both the router and the additional node setup took well over 30 minutes, and that’s after I finally got the app to recognize the router.

Once I got everything setup the speeds were impressive and while the WiFi by the arena is not perfect I no longer get Nest notifications that the camera is out (so outages are brief and far more reliable).

In the end, after the bad setup days you do get great WiFi over a broad coverage area. I do goback to that Netgear Nighthawk Mesh that I have in the house though. If I had the choice of one, this that I have in the barn or the one in the house, I would buy the Netgear over again over this.

It’s not bad, and in time I’m sure it will be great but the setup did really leave a bad taste in my mouth.

IšverstiShow in original languageI purchased this router on behalf of a customer who was looking for an inexpensive router/wifi access point for his home office. While the price was certainly within my customer’s budget, upon opening the box and closely examining this unit, my customer and I both agreed this was NOT what he wanted! The intended use for this router was to be used as a “wireless access point”; an option that is pretty standard on *most* routers, including most models from Linksys.

This particular model however, had no option to convert it from its native “router” function, to a simple “wireless access point” mode, so it was of no use to my customer. Secondly, this particular router is only a “single band” router, meaning it can only transmit & receive data at the older “2.

4Ghz” frequency. For those with “5G” capable devices, having to “drop back” and operate at 2. 4Ghz, would almost seem like “going back in time”. Not exactly what most of us are wanting to do! We ended up returning this model, and getting one that could in fact be programmed to be used an access point, AND operate in both “2.

4Ghz”, as well as “5Ghz” mode, which met my customer’s needs and was only a few dollars more in price. To be fair, for someone who just needs a (very!) basic, single band router in their home or office, this router might just fit the bill.

If however, you’re looking for a router with more robust functionality, and/or the capability to program it to be used as a wireless access point, you’ll probably want to “pass” on this particular model.

IšverstiShow in original languageBought the Linksys AC1200 router to replace my linksys ea2700 that died after about seven years of faithful service. While the AC1200 works, the admin webpages of this new router take much longer to completely display the same basic info as the old router.

It takes almost 20 seconds for it to display the whole Wireless Security page which consists of the 2. 4 and 5 GHz security modes and passphrases. Displaying the complete MAC filtering page takes about 15 seconds.

It displays all 32 MAC filter entry fields in about 1 second but then takes another 14 seconds or so display the wireless MAC filter checkbox and the radio buttons besides the prevent/enable options.

A router made in 2021/22 should perform much better than a router built in the 2013/14/15 time period.

IšverstiShow in original language− The 100Mbps “fast ethernet” WAN port hamstrings the router’s alleged 1. 2Gbps capabilities: it supports LESS THAN A TENTH of the throughput advertised in the description.

− IPv6 DNS servers cannot be configured; you’re forced to use the ISP’s DNSv6 servers, or disable IPv6 entirely. − The entire router reboots, kicking all wireless clients off, when making any configuration changes, even those that DO NOT REQUIRE a reboot or any disruption to existing clients.

− Guest SSID cannot be changed, nor can its security mode be changed from a hardcoded HTTP gateway (rendering it insuitable for legacy devices such as a Nintendo DS Lite). − The DDNS client is hardcoded to two (now-defunct) providers, rather than supporting any standardized interface.

I setup the 3 units that I purchased to make a mesh network. The firmware version was so old on these units (probably been in the warehouse for a few years), that the Google Wifi App didn’t quite work per the instructions when trying to setup a mesh with them.

The Google Help line spent a lot of time with me, but ultimately didn’t figure it out. But I did, as I sat there waiting for them and searching around other posts online. No one provided clear steps on how to fix it, but here’s what I ultimately did to get everything meshed and working.

1. Plug one unit in, and follow the instructions to set it up as your Primary. The phone app will get stuck on the Updating Software screen. Let it sit for at least 30 minutes (an hour would be better).

The update must be huge. Eventually exit the setup on your phone app, and start it again. If the update completed, it should skip over the software update process pretty quickly this time and get you to the part where you name your network.

Everything should work fine for that unit from that point forward. 2. For the next unit that you want to mesh, the problem is that the phone app will keep getting stuck on the same screen telling you not to mesh these units.

If you go to their website instructions, the alternative method ends up in the same place every time. The problem is the old firmware. So you first have to update the software by following Step 1 above (like you’re setting it up as a primary).

However here is the trick, it needs a WAN (modem) connection to access the internet for the update. So I do recommend having a small ethernet switch that you can plug into the 2nd port on your real primary unit, and then plug the unit you’re setting up into the switch to get its internet access for the update.

3. So follow Step 1 on your 2nd unit to set it up as a primary just so you can load the update. When you finally get to the screen that asks you to name your primary, exit the setup. You can power it off and unplug the cable from the WAN port.

4. Now you can plug the power back into your 2nd unit, and use these steps to add it to your “meshed” network from the phone app: Touch the top menu item with the 4 dots; touch the “Network & General” option under Settings; Touch “Wifi points”; touch the “Add Wifi Point” button; follow the steps to add it to your meshed network.

5. Setup additional units to your mesh just like you did the 2nd unit. Make sure you have time to spend a few hours on this project, but the end result is pretty cool. I have my primary unit in my office next to my modem.

It has a switch plugged in so that I can plug in my desktop, printer, laptop, etc. I have a 2nd meshed unit sitting on my TV unit also with a switch attached to plug in directly to any devices I have there.

I have a 3rd unit plugged in our front bedroom to extend my range towards the front of the house. All the units are called blue, but it’s a really dark blue that looks black most of the time. They have subtle blue light at the top, and I found you can dim or turn off using the phone app (great for the one in the bedroom).

All my speed tests are maximizing my cable connection. So far I’m very happy with this setup, and this network is compatible with the Google Wifi hockey pucks should I want to expand the network (it all uses the same phone app).

I had this monitor for over a year, loved it. I never write reviews unless I have something nice to say, but what happened to me today with this monitor was a nightmare and it is absolutely infuriating that this major malfunction is not in the description.

I was working in my office on it when suddenly I went from relaxed, to feeling like I was making a decision between my life, and $20,000 worth of hardware. This is not my video, but after explaining on twitter what had happened and sharing the make and model of the monitor, somebody shared this with me – https://www.

youtube. com/watch?v=YkQVK6LKtEY The video does not do justice to how loud it this is. When you have 7 GPU’s rendering at full load, and something like this reminiscent of an airhorn or ambulance blasts in your face, it sends you into the worst panic that worsens with each passing second, until you figure out it is the STUPID FREAKING MONITOR that, according to one commenter in provided video – “Asus knows is an issue, but their only current resolution is to ‘reset the monitor.

‘” I cannot express how infuriating this is. If this happened to one person at ASUS, they would recall it immediately. I do not wish this upon anyone, it is the most unnecessary inconvenience I have ever experienced with computers in the many years I have worked as a professional.

It has been over four hours, and my ears are still ringing. The speakers on this thing are awful and extremely quiet, which I didn’t mind obviously, I was buying it for 4K resolution, as basically everybody buying it is.

I cannot express to you how loud the siren was, and with almost complete certainty based on the quality of the speakers, I can say the sound wasn’t coming from the speakers. It sounded like a police siren was installed in this thing.

Now, I had it for a year, and loved it – and I’m not saying that every single one will do it, but the amount of views suggest that many may have experienced this issue besides the maker of the video and myself.

I believe it’s only fair that ASUS put an asterisk next to this item and give fair warning, or try to resolve the issue. Since they have not, I felt the necessity to share so hopefully you will take heed and not experience this.

Do not buy this monitor unless you’re a big fan of trying to stop your heart. It will give it’s best shot. After sharing my experience, I gave this monitor away on Twitter. I refuse to go through something like that again.

I also refuse to accept money for such an item. Would have been better off flushing my money down the toilet, at least I would have never had to go through such an unnecessary episode.

Tired of having multiple wifi extenders that constantly drop I investigated mesh networks. I needed something that I could put the kids on timeout, prioritize wife’s internet traffic and manage everything even offsite.

The OnHub ticked those boxes for me. I bought one to start with and I am super impressed. Previously without the extenders I would get POOR (11Mbps) wifi signal in my bedroom from my main router. With the OnHub (located right next to the main router) signal is EXCELLENT (72Mbps on phone) in my bedroom.

My home is an old brick home. The parental control (time limits, Safe Search) are great features to keep the kids safe. I can prioritize my wife’s device when needed (like when kids are streaming). The only feature request I would like is ability to lower certain devices priority (but sure that will still come).

As someone not staying in USA, yes the AC adapter is rated 220v also so all you need is a US to your local plug converter for it to work. The app also does not have any localization limitations. I read old reviews where people complained about not being able to set DHCP range, DNS or IP address of the device, this is not the case with the latest firmware (that installs automatically when setting up the device).

Would I recommend this product – for someone with beginner or intermediate IT skills and wants something that you can “set and forget” then I would say a definite yes. For someone who wants more control on their router and loves Mikrotek devices, maybe give this one a pass.

For me this has been a great purchase that I definitely do not regret.

Pros: Due to our setup, we needed a modem router as the last one after 11 years died. The TPLINK is no better than the previous Netgear model but as it was simple to setup, gives the same sometimes better coverage, most of all it allows more devices.

Over the last 11 years we have way more devices. Streaming with device plugged into remote unit works a lot better. Overall I would recommend. Cons: This modem/router allows you to switch the modem off.

Shame it’s not the other way around as I would of liked to get a more powerful router – WiFi mesh.

The VPN feature of this product is useless if you want to access your internal network. The product has the option for enabling it as a “VPN Server”, but doesn’t allow access to your internal subnet range.

Having read forums of similar issues, responses from TP-Link have been that the VPN traffic once connect to the router is still treated as “external”, so you have to open up ports using NAT and expose your internal network, as you do not have any control in the NAT options for where the external traffic is coming from.

If you could choose the source as the VPN traffic it wouldn’t be so much of an issue, but this cannot be done. This makes the VPN server feature of this router totally pointless. There is a hack for manually creating a route on your VPN connected computer to access the internal network, but this has been flakey to get operational and inconsistent.

Having chatted to TP-Link support directly about it, they claim that “This router is a VPN pass-through only”. Yet the router clearly has the option for enabling it as a “VPN Server” and is spruced as being VPN capable.

If TP-Link allowed you to issue IP’s to VPN connections from your internal address range, or allowed routing between the two networks, this would fix this issue. Yet the request has fallen on deaf ears.

Don’t buy it for its supposed VPN capabilities, you will be disappointed.

Very good product good value for money I recommend it. Strong signal, light and easy to install! Cant fault it.

Works well, I have used it to extend wifi from the house to the summer house. Hard wired from router 1 to this and then wifi from there. Easy to setup.

Pros: Very fast Cons: Distance seems to be an issue on 5g unless its where I have it located.