20 Best Uv Resistant Clear Coat (2023 Updated)

I didn’t like this product at all, it did not lay flat or even lots of orange peel. Sanding clearcoat usually makes it flat and glossy but not in this case it just got worse. Has only semi gloss appearance and it didn’t blend in well with the factory clear.

I will never use again and i dont recommend it.

Leaves a great depth and gloss coat. It goes on THICK! Self leveling as well. Don’t go crazy on the heavy coats. Go light and build up. Doesn’t take much to build a poly “shell” on whatever you’re spraying.

Goes on crystal clear and dries in HD. LOL. Yeah, this is the good stuff. Little goes a long way. A++ 5 starz.

Its anti-yellowing, and the good spray tip enables you to coat with as little orange peel that you will ever see come from clear out of a spray can. Perfect for coating badges or emblems to keep them from yellowing.

no reason you couldnt spray whole panels with this can.

Goes on well if sprayed with LIGHT coats. Shake can for at least 1 minute, then use supplied cap to press in bottom pin (will take a fair amount of force), then shake for over 1 minute. Spray light coats (will smooth out).

I painted the inside of a bare aluminum wheel, using 4 coats, after scuffing with coarse scotch-brite pad. Cured to a very hard coating. Don’t waste any time painting after mixing activator (I waited 5 minutes between coats).

You can’t save anything left in the can, so be prepared to use it all or lose what is left. I was well satisfied with the results that I got by using the above steps. Expensive, but gives a good tough coating.

A great alternative to mixing two part paint and having to use and clean up a spray gun.

I did a car hood w/this product and have used it on motorcycle tanks, frames and fenders. good product to use when ya don’t own or want to invest in an air gun/compressor system and NOT doing a large project.

it doesn’t apply as FINE as an air gun-u will get some orange-peel effect, so extra care needs to be taken when applying. like all clears, it WILL run if u are not careful-there’s a fine line btwn. a “wet look” coat and running.

I do, however, like the adj spray noz for choice of vertical or horz fan of spray. Overall, only thing Spray-Max could improve upon is the orifice nozzle size for a more “misty-like, air gun quality” discharge.

I bought this product to clean up the bowls under the burners on my electric stove. I repeated the process about 4 times with not much change. I have used it to clean floors and it works fine. I also tries the burnt on grease on the bottom of a couple fry pans.

No way did it affect them at at.

I used this product to solve an exterior finish issue on my new custom Spanish Cedar front door. The original finish used by the builder failed after only a little over one year. After doing some extensive internet research, I contacted Jamestown Distributors and they recommended I use Halcyon since the original finish was a water based finish.

The technical support team also took me through the best process to end up with a beautiful satin finish (hint: 6 coats of gloss, scuff, and 2 coats of satin). They also recommended I use badger hair brushes which I would now highly recommend.

Ease of application and quick drying time allowed me to refinish the door in two days (8 coats). The brushed on finish leveled nicely with no drips (it looks like it was applied with a sprayer). I sanded the original finish, touched up the stain and removed the hardware so I could finish the door in place, all of which worked out great.

I now plan to do maintenance coats as required to maintain the look of this door for years to come. The product is so easy to use that it should no big deal to keep the door looking great.

After watching a Jamestown video, I chose to go with the Halcyon Amber Gloss varnish, to blend the existing color variations in the wood. For the interior of the boat, I completed the project with a couple of coats of the Halcyon Clear Satin.

I’m extremely happy with the satin finish, let it sit for a couple of days, as it will get smoother and more consistent. The exterior will be completed when the weather improves. Notes: I had better luck applying with a foam roller and tipping with a foam brush.

The varnish does set up quickly, so the foam roller allowed me to apply a larger area in a short time frame. Because of the low VOC’s all the removable wood panels were varnished inside my warm home and my wife did not say a word!.

My husband used this on a beautiful cedar table top he made for our pontoon. Our pontoon came with a flimsy plastic table top so he decided to make a more sturdy wood table. We did alot of research online for the perfect varnish that wouldn’t change the color yet provide protection from the sun and water.

I called customer service and asked for a recommendation on which product would be best. They were so helpful! The representative I spoke with was very knowledgeable about each product. The varnish was easy to work with too which was a huge plus.

We applied 3 coats – it exceeded our expectations. What a great company!!!.

Been refinishing a lot of teak for the boat and this stuff is by far the best I’ve used. It does not dry “Red” or “Orange” like many other products. it’s much more honey colored, or towards brown/amber.

This is the Epifanes product that you MUST sand between coats for adhesion. Calling Epifanes will walk you through it, or even their Q and A section of the website answers sanding steps. It is SO important to thin your first coat 50/50 with their Brushing Thinner product.

Yeah it’s probably just VMA Naptha, but I am not willing to try experimenting with product longevity to save 10 bucks by not buying their thinner. The Epifanes “Wood Finish” Product is something you might consider IF YOU DO NOT want to sand between every coat.

If you recoat within 72 hours no sanding needed. THIS product MUST be sanded to provide “Tooth” for the subsequent coat to grab. First sand bare wood to 120 grit. Light sanding with 220 after first sealer coat thinned 50%.

220 after 2nd coat thinned 75% varnish/25% Thinner. Then go to 95% or 100% varnish and use 320 between coat. My final top coat I sand with 400 prior to final coat. This is completely in accordance with Manufacturer directions.

Works incredible.

I used this varnish at the recommendation of another builder, and against my better judgement I bought it and am stuck with the remaining 2 of 3 pints. I’m disappointed that even following the sanding, coverage, and thinning directions to the tee, it hasn’t performed.

It spreads as it’s laid down, i. e. lacks flow if used with a brush, sags on thinner coats on vertical surfaces (even when laid down extremely thin), shows any “off track” with the brush strokes and when laid on thicker binds in the brush and surface.

I use another brand that has the same synonym as a skipper of boat (not sure we can compare brands in these reviews – which though I struggled with at times, it has a way more consistent hold, flow, and spreads evenly in a “self-correcting” manner.

I know because I was laying down both brands at the same time in the exact same conditions. I’m going back to my original varnish – now let me do a review for that one! I’m not laying down another pint of this stuff and will go with the other brand – it’s really top notch by comparison.

Sad thing is that there are no returns on paints – my bad not to know this in advance. Don’t buy unless your sure or want to eat the cost.

I’ve used this on several engine pieces and rims with great success, still super glossy and crystal clear. Gasoline and brake cleaner spray will dull and maybe discolor , but as long as you lay down rags before cracking open fuel lines its great, just don’t leave a gas soaked rag in contact too long.

I love this stuff. Easy to apply. A small foam roller works even better than the brush I was using. Use a minimum of 2 coats to evenly coat. Works on everything. No longer have to polish and wax my aluminum under hood pieces.

TIP: Drill a hole in the can near or in the top instead of trying to remove the lid. Seal it after use. The lid is already glued to the can because the product dries super strong due to the air in the can from the factory.

Just received my PS-270 and am very impressed by the build quality. I’m new to airbrushing but can tell that this airbrush was built to last. It has a heft to it that the Chinese knock-offs can’t even come close to.

Haven’t used it yet, but ran some distilled water through it immediately to test the atomization and control. Perfect. I look forward to years of service from my PS-270. Thanks to Spray Gunner for a painless and quick purchasing experience.

I will definitely be purchasing from them again in the future. A special thanks to Wendy for the careful attention taken when packaging my order. I’ve dealt with companies in the past that just chuck your stuff into the most convenient box they can find without adequate padding only to receive product crushed or damaged.

Spray Gunner even goes out of their way to shrink wrap product together to keep them from shifting around in the box. Two thumbs up! Keep up the awesome work.

my suggestion would be to KBS to stop putting a cheap low quality spray tip on the gloss cans, its garbage, it spews globs of clear that turn white with the most inconsistent spray pattern, i turned right around grabbed a spray tip from a satin can.

guess what, shoots fine. i have been using kbs in a quart cans forever; shooting from spot gun, no problems. Shot aerosol satin, no problems. So, a logical conclusion would be that the aersol gloss works just as well.

wrong!. the gloss aerosol tip is trash. just highly disappointed; i use these products in a pro capacity building sports cars, motors, and wheel refinishing; and i am a pro trigger man. no humidity, 85 degree base temperature.

was debating on getting into high temp ceramic series, but now i’m completely on the fence since an improper spray tip selection on a product is such a rookie mistake. probabvly taking my business somewhere else, just ruined two wheels that i now have to refinish, thanks kbs.

I used this product to stain a 6ft x 15in board that is part of a piece of furniture I built. The color was simply white, semi-transparent. I followed the directions to apply the stain with a high quality synthetic brush.

When I went to wipe off the excess with a clean rag as instructed (immediately, within 2 min), I found that the rag stuck to the product as I tried to wipe. This made the result extremely splotchy. I stripped the splotchy stain off to start over, but before doing so I called Minwax to get some advice.

After explaining what I was experiencing, the individual ended up suggesting that I use a damp rag to wipe off the excess instead of a dry one. This did work a little better, but also removed most of the product.

I decided to try something radical. I bought some plain Brillo sponges. I stirred the stain and then wiped some stain onto the sponge with the stirring stick to prime it. Then, I poured a stream of stain along the entire length of the board.

I used the sponge to quickly spread the stain, and then made light passes across the board from end-to-end, with the grain, to gently smooth out the stain. I held the sponge with both hands while doing this, being careful to minimize the amount of pressure applied.

This technique gave me a pretty reasonable result. Minwax, please update the directions and provide a corresponding video to help people apply this product in a way that will work with this extremely thick, fast-drying stain.

Many people are wasting money, and worse a ton of time and effort trying to make this product work. Have some compassion for all these poor folks. Thx!.

I have a 100 year old table and chair set that I spent a solid month refurbishing. I sanded it down very well, but with it being 100 years old, it still had plenty of little knicks and dents in the wood.

So I chose chalk paint to paint the table legs and chairs as it is so dense and also very flat that it conceals imperfections very well. The paint job was perfection, and I was so pleased with it. Then I made the mistake of putting Miniwax Matte finish Polycrylic on top.

First of all, it’s not matte at all. The sheen is much closer to semi-gloss. I stirred the can literally 100 times in both ways (I counted it out in my head) so I know that no components were separated in the can— in other words, this was not a user-error.

I also applied a very light coating. I thought after my first coat that it just needed to dry in order for the sheen to diminish. Nope. Still very high shine. It ruined the texture of my chalk paint completely, and revealed every single blemish on all of my chairs.

I was distraught. Also, it yellowed in some spots, and I know for a fact that it was not caused by tannins because I coated the chairs with shellac everywhere prior to applying the white chalk paint to seal the tannins from seeping through.

Thinking I had maybe a bad batch of paint, I borrowed some of the same matte polycrylic from my mother to hopefully conceal the sheen (after sanding off the yellow streaks) and it did the SAME THINGG!! I’m mad, and disappointed to say in the least.

Don’t buy the matte polycrylic, it’s just so disappointing.

This is the only clear coat I know of in a spray can that performs as well as the 2 part urethane I use for bigger pieces. I love this stuff. It stinks though. Surprise!

POL Clear # 1 does a nice job for my repair needs. Dries quickly and has a nice spray pattern that can be set for horizontal or vertical application. Price was a lot cheaper than buying in my area, plus free shipping that was fast.

Would buy again.

I have had great results over the years with this clearcoat!

Great products, 100% customer service, correct advice. This took a dingy old garage floor and blocks on the side and now it looks AMAZING. Although I didn’t do this myself, two people that do odd jobs on the weekends that I know for many years came and did this.

The biggest but easily managed task is grinding off the top layer of cement so all epoxy would adhere without failures. These machines are available from rental stores. I am sure this made all the difference in the world with adhesion.

I plan on using these products again on any next house that may be in store.

Recently I coated a 2 car garage with the resin and then the hardcoat on top of this. It turned out very well and I am happy with my purchase. The key to success is proper preparation of the concrete floor.

I rented a concrete grinder from a tool rental company and it took me about 3 hours. I then mixed the resin and hardener as the instructions provided. Using an 18 inch roller made the floor painting go fast, about 30 minutes.

I put on the spiked shoes and went over the initial paint using just the roller in the opposite direction as recommended by the excellent technical support provided by Colorpoxies. The air temperature was in the 50’s and as I later learned, the floor is 10-20 degrees cooler than the air temperature.

Thes factors contributed to the nearly 48 drying time for the first coat. I then applied the second coat and it went on smoothly but unfortunately the weather stayed in the low’s with fairly high humidity and it took nearly a week tonot be sticky to the touch.

Colorpoxies recommended I apply a top coat to further harden the epoxy. While expensive, the topcoat did further dry out the resin and after 3 more days, we drove on it with no problems. I would recoomend these productsbut would highly advise applying them with temperatures at least 60 degrees or higher.

The resin just does not dry well in colder temperatures. Tech support is excellent – friendly and extremely knowledgable.

I have an unusually challenging application – a super durable floor for the camper vans that I build. Vans flex, experience temperature extremes, UV and more. Jason and Jacob helped me figure out if the material would work, how to apply it and broadcast the chips to give a professional finish my customers expect.

My experience is not all companies offer such help to small operations like mine. Kudos to Colored Epoxies for both the products and the support. Offering both is the key to success!.

I restore antique mahogany Chris Crafts. This varnish is the easiest spar varnish I have used giving fine results. But 48 hours in the Florida summer heat is not enough time to sand between coats without the semi cured, but completely dry, varnish to roll up under the sand paper.

Increases the time and effort between coats by quite a bit. Rustoleum solve this problem and you will have the great varnish. Makes me not want to use this again. Too bad because I love the ease of use and results.

I purchased the varnish to seal fresh wood cookies that were first treated with the wood preservative Pentacryl to construct a nature path. I like that it brought out the wood grain; but it took 3-4 coats to do it.

It also requires some drying time in between coats. Considering the absorption of fresh wood and the size of my project, it took 6 cans. The cost of the varnish, Pentacryl and brush supplies got a little pricey but I think the results will be worth it, when I finally get the path laid.

I also used it on my porch swing and wood trim around my kitchen bar and cabinets. The varnish left a high gloss finish on my indoor projects but considering the outdoor was un-sanded fresh wood it turned out the way I wanted because I didn’t want the wood to be slick when walked on.

My only complaint, I never found it in the gallon size and had to re-order twice to get my projects finished.

Received the product sooner than stated. Had used a similar product before but this one seemed very thin/watery, so a bit messy. Easy to apply, need to move quickly to avoid overlapping and uneven coat.

Drying time required is more like 1-2 days in between coats to allow it to dry without being tacky as you will need to sand lightly between coats. A lesson to remember, do not try to correct missed areas when still wet, does not adhere neatly and is visible.

Even with my flaws, the result should look nice for an outdoor table and durable once completed.

*I second Canuck’s review:* This stuff goes on like shaving cream, that’s how many bubbles it creates. And no, I did not shake it or use it in any way other than directed. I used a bristle brush and although it hasn’t dried yet, I got the impression it was clinging to the bristles, after a directed water clean up.

I now have a terrible mess to clean up and hope I can put a quality oil based varnish on top of it, after a few hours of sanding this junk off. It dries in about 1/2 an hour to the extent that you can no longer brush the bubbles out.

For me, the more you roll, the foamier it gets? It’s like whipped cream. Brushing doesn’t work either.

I bought when I discovered my 15 year old can of Varathane Diamond had turned to gel. The store didn’t have interior (there used to be only one) and I though “how different can it be?”. Well. it means it when it says not for interior.

I put it on a stair railing and the results are awful. It doesn’ t flow and self level like my previous experiences with Varathane Diamond Coat. Does anyone want 9/10 of a litre of this stuff? I have no use for it.

2 stars because it does say that it’s not for interior, I wouldn’t be happy with the results even on an exterior item.

Great product when applied correctly. Nice clear, hard finish. Easy soap and water clean up. Applying multiple thin coats is best for a smooth finish and prevents seeing brush strokes. This finish dries quickly so DON’T overbrush or you will see brush strokes.

This product is amazing as it protects metal garden furniture and ornaments from the most extreme weather and we have a lot of rain in Wales! I use it regularly on an antique Victorian metal bench which is too heavy to store away for the winter, as well as on other metal garden furniture and assorted accessories including bird baths, urns, wind chimes, weather vanes, statues and so on.

Just sand off any rust and apply the spray direct to the metal, on both sides if applicable, remembering to wear a mask. I re-spray my best items several times throughout the year, most importantly before the winter, ensuring that all surfaces are completely dry before applying the product.

This product can be used on pre-painted or distressed surfaces and the nozzle doesn’t dry up or clog as sometimes happens with other aerosols if you haven’t used them for a while. I would recommend this product unreservedly.

The only drawback is that a single can doesn’t last too long so I would suggest buying more than one for a large project or multiple items.

Would recommend leaving for much longer than advertised (24 hours) before touching. Was incredibly easy to scratch and chip afterwards. Either that or expect to do many, many layers. I had a good 2-3 on top of day old painted spray paint and it did not offer any real protection.

May be better after leaving for longer.

Over the years I’ve used many types of rustoleum, but this one is a 1st, I normally use there wax which is good quality, this was used for quickness. I gave 4 coats, as I used it outside and tbh with a breeze you loose alot of it, the wind sweeps alot away, but the end product was perfect.

I tested it with a water spill and it gave 100% protection.

I purchased this product because I was in the process of building some shop cabinets for my wood shop. Our house has a stone foundation so moisture is always present and has caused serious problems with other materials in the past.

I chose the spar urethane because of its claims to work well in damp/wet environments. Pros: 1. It gets applied like most other finishes. it went on easy with a cheap bristle brush and laid down fairly smooth.

Make sure to mix the container thoroughly as there was a film at the bottom of mine. 2. The product had a slight yellow tint to it. I personally think it really brought out the character of the plywood but others may not be impressed.

you to make your own determination on that Cons: 1. I started using this in my garage and the smell spread through much of the house. I quickly discontinued my application and waited for a nice day to move the items outside.

2. The product seemed to take longer to dry than indicated on the can. I was surprised since the majority of my work was outdoors in the open air during moderate temperatures. Definitely give yourself a few extra hours for dry time from what is recommended by the manufacturer.

3. I seemed to have an issue with the finish getting a clear white haze to it. It was just in a few spots and I assume it was based on surface prep. Other notes: I was wearing a pair of cheap vinyl gloves while coating.

It seems like there was a chemical reaction with the product as they quickly began falling apart. I changed to a pair of nitrile gloves bought here on amazon and didn’t have an issue. Final Thoughts: I have another round of shop cabinet builds on the horizon so as long as it holds up I will definitely use the product again.

So for the most part it is a great product that works well !.

I have been using Helmsman Spar Urethane satin finish on most of my yard decorations such as birdhouses, nail kegs, flower cart, antique laundry tub and the list goes on. A great product, it helps protect from sun, rain and snow damage.

I apply every spring with a paintbrush, it goes on clear and dries with barely any sheen and the best part is no yellowing. I took it a step further and applied it to an antique soda cooler, a full size floor model made from wood and glass.

Why you ask? The cooler had the original paint which was worn, chipped and flaking. I wanted to preserve this antique finish but just looking at the cooler would cause tiny paint chips to fall off and make a mess.

More importantly, it was slowly ruining the look. For this project I purchased the spray can version and am happy to report that it has sealed the paint finish, chips and all preserving the look. I can now use it outside during the summer months as a beverage cooler without any worries.

Highly recommend this product!.

I’m going to start with the fact that I am a novice furniture flipper! I enjoy finding small pieces like side tables and chairs, wooden, and painting/refreshing/sometimes distressing. I usually layer different colors, and distress for an aged or vintage look.

Sometimes shabby chic! I have been please with my work so far but was nervous about needing a top coat to keep the integrity of the paint and keep it from staining from water/household use. I read a lot about others drying with a yellowed tint so I was nervous to try this on my almost stark white table.

The spray went on very evenly, was easy to apply, dried fast (but not too fast as to leave streaks or anything while overlapping the spray strokes), and dried completely clear! I may have over sprayed, but I did one “thick” coat and so far has stood the test of time with kids, adults, and pets! I would definitely use again and did exactly what I was hoping it would!.

This color is a perfect burgundy with more of a slight sheen than a sparkly metallic which is exactly what I needed. I used this on a 1970s vintage model car based on the movie “Bloody Mama”. Would buy again!.

When I took the can home, the spray nozzle was off. When I tried to put it on it would not go in and sprayed paint all over my hands. I returned the item to the store hoping to get a new one, but they were out of stock.

The next time I went in the same spray can was on the shelf. They still have not gotten the color back in stock and it has been over a month.

Since Testors was sold to Rustoleum, the Testors paints have been discontinued. Buy ’em if you see ’em. Testors spray lacquer goes on easily, dries quickly, and lasts. It is my favorite spray lacquer, though now it is nearly impossible to find online at a reasonable price.

Best UV spray for delicate work and works great on watercolors. The spray is fine enough that it leaves an even surface and doesn’t splatter and ruin your work like other sprays. The satin has a beautiful finish right between matte and glossy.

Matte and glossy also professional quality of course and also create beautiful even finish. Does not harm watercolor, ink, gouache or other water-soluble medias. Appears to work on a great variety of surfaces from paper to canvas, metal, wood, stretched fabric, ceramics (not potable or cooking dishes, just decorative ceramics).

It is expensive but there is no other UV protectant spray varnish product I know of that does a consistent professional job with top archival quality. One can goes a long way, also. And Dick Blick ships fast and safe.

Recently I began spraying my watercolors with a UV protection. I begin with several coats of gloss and overlay that with some semi-matt. With the semi-matt especially, you MUST keep the can at least 12″-24″ away from your painting.

If you spray too close you will get a cloudy mess.

The Lascaux fixative works perfectly for soft pastels and I couldn’t detect any change in the colors. I’ve tried other fixatives but the pastel colors were changed. I still have to be somewhat careful when handling the painting, though, since some of the pastel can still come out when touched, what I feel is normal.

The price is a little steep for me but it’s worth.

Facile d’application

Great quality, sprayed over aerosol gloss paint to give a greater shine!

I’ve used other laquers on wooden turned items, but I’m my opinion this gives by far the best shine. Easy to apply

Arrived very quickly easy to use (suggest putting can in hot water for a while especially if its cold). Produces a good hard lacquer finish.