20 Best Street Cam For Small Block Chevy (2023 Updated)

this camshaft only lasted 22 minutes. it threw all metal debris through the oiling system that the entire motor needed a complete rebuild costing me more money than I would make on this customers car.

Not worth it. I did everything per comp cams instructions. I have built many engines in the past 25+ years and this is the first time that 2 cams have failed consecutively on the same engine. I am now getting an edelbrock roller camshaft kit.

this is the 3rd purchase of a camshaft for the same engine that I am paying out on my own (lost revenue). And now trying to get credit for the failed camshafts from summitracing. no summitracing reps answers calls on a Saturday.

I have installed many new camshafts but never experiences cam failure basically on startup. Followed every break-in requirements, lube, oil additive, high RPM on start-up. Started ticking before I drove it.

1 lifter and lobe destroyed, 2 other were failing as well. Filled motor full of metal filings, horrible. Summit made good and credited me back. ordered a Comp cam.

Wow this cam was an excellent choice. I have used many cams before but not Lunati. I decided on this cam when I read the technical data. The lift, duration, and power range was exactly what I wanted.

This cam gives me the power and torque that I needed. It sounds great and the acceleration is smooth and quick. I recommend Lunati to all of you who are searching for power and torque.

Hi, I have experienced excellent performance from this cam. After reading all the other reviews I know some of you guys had some not so good experiences. One thing it is crucial to run zinc in your breakin oil.

The cam will destroy itself within minutes if you don’t. A quick initial start is also crucial with any flat tappet cam. Can not start and stop then start and stop. Start right away and bring up the rpm to 2500 and hold it there 25 minutes.

No stopping. The stall speed of the converter has less to do with drive ability than does the carburetor idle mixture and proper ignition timing. This cam requires more initial advance and total advance than does a stock cam.

My biggest issue in the beginning was being able to keep the engine idle low enough so when I pop into drive it did not klunk hard. This was solved with opening up the idle mixture screws then lowering the idle adjust screw.

Important to not have those butterflys encroach into the transition slots. As soon as the carb is setup correctly the better results you will have. Once I got my carb correct the motor took on a whole different personality.

It began to idle nicely at 800 rpm and then stay there when ac was on or when I drop it into gear. I hope this helps somebody. Best wishes.

This cam lives up to its name! Thumping idle but the engine is still pretty smooth in terms of vibration. It is advertised as okay with a stock converter but you will want a 2700-3000 rpm stall. Power is strong all the way to 6500 rpm.

I installed this cam in a true 350 cubic inch small chevy. 4 bolt main, forged and blueprinted internals. Custom cnc aluminum heads. 200cc intake runners, 2. 02 1. 60 valves 64cc chambers. Holley carb msd ignition.

I will note the cam is finicky to tune. Likes alot of initial timing. Vacuum around 10 so a reserve cannister is recommended.

Been wanting this cam for some yrs and finally decided to get it for a cam swap of another Comp Cams shaft for more of a street/strip powerband. Sounds amazing and the powerband is awesome. Installed in my SBC 350 4 bolt main with Brodix aluminum heads.

Complete roller engine.

Bought it last week, and now it’s in and running in a 537 hp 350. Bottom end torque is better that I expected and the mid to high range is awesome. Made a mean sounding and running street truck. My last build tacked 9000 but have not took this roller motor over 7200.

About all I feel comfortable with.

My truck a 2000 C35 with 5. 7 Vortec 213K miles. I installed this cam along with new heads, timing set, distributor, sensors, etc. My bad, I didn’t stab the distro correctly, but once I straightened that out / broke in the cam.

took it out for a drive around the neighborhood. Wow is all I can say, very pleased with this cam’s performance. Low end to high end throttle performance is smooth. SIGNIFICANTLY more torque, seems a lot more power (taking it easy for a few miles) but haven’t revved it very high yet.

Very subtle lopiness at idle, if you didn’t know it had a cam you wouldn’t even detect it. My old truck feels like it has a new (different) engine. Putting my 383 thoughts on the shelf for now. Comments on the web ‘you won’t notice much difference from the modest grind changes on this cam’ are totally wrong.

Totally worth all the work to put this in. helpful hint; you’re going to pull both intake manifolds to install any new cam. Don’t go gonzo like I did and powerwash your upper intake manifold (at least not without removing the MAP and TPS sensors) Sensors don’t take kindly to 2,500 PSI.

BTW, no computer reprogram was required.

this is the camshaft that i feel GM should have installed from the factory. This went into a daily driver 98 K2500. My truck is a NV4500 Manual with 4:10 gears. i constantly felt like i was driving a 70s grain truck due to the factory camshafts extremely low duration (191/194).

Factor that with the low gearing, it always felt like the engine was screaming when it was above 2500 rpm. This camshaft and its bump in duration and lift has transformed this truck into a much nicer driver and tower.

don’t be scared by the low LSA number. The engineers at GM know what they are doing. The idle is smooth and just slightly over stock. the low and mid range torque improvement are nice. I use my truck for work, so i constantly have weight in the back as well as a trailer hitched.

this camshaft helps me in what i use my truck for, a work mule. oh, don’t skimp if you are planning on installing this cam. if your cam is worn, likely your lifters, pushrods, and rockers aren’t far behind.

I had decent amount invested after i finished up with this swap, but I can’t afford downtime with my truck being down. so it is well worth it to replace the entire valvetrain while you have it apart.

These trucks (GMT400) are old enough to buy alcohol now, so take care of them and they will take care of you.

Bought this cam and installed in my 2000 5. 7 Vortec. Wow, what a difference in torque / power. Well-behaved, barely a lope at idle. Didn’t re-tune computer. Feels like a different engine. Ditching my 383 plans for now it’s that good.

overall great kit here were MY issues: (and reason for poor installation marks) -pushrods sent were 0. 050” longer… why? no notes in description -kit description doesnt clarify cam gear type (1x vs 4x) it came with a 1x for a 24tooth reluctor -it advertises no tuning or comp req’d however, the factory idle is too low for this cam… it needs to be raised at least 250rpm, and sets a MAP code.

The kit as a whole, is well built. i can agree with people stating “why provide springs with an NSR cam?” but its not bank breaking for the insurance of matched springs.

Made decent power, usual dod delete with BTR. 560 springs with the 54-700-11, stock converter 4l60e and t-case in 2wd on 93 octane made 312hp and 409ftlb through a 2nd gear pull. With a little throttle input it will start and idle but will need tune to clean idle up, will stall while coming to stop.

Def could use a slightly higher stall.

Best overall power in a hot 350. Must have at least 2000 stall and low rear gears. This cam pumps up compression and helps lower 8-9 compression engines to make power. This cam makes noise and is not quite at all.

I stopped break in after 2 minutes because I thought something broke and called summit tech who stated that it was normal for this cam to be noisy since the fast ramps slam shut the valves. This is the biggest dual pattern profile flat tappet cam for a hot 350 build or 383 stroker.

This cam is quite on exhaust though for those not wanting loud exhaust. I heard the radical ramp speed can wipe a lobe fast if not properly lubed with ZDDP, so use Comp Cam Break In Oil at all times, but if so even 5 of these cams are cheaper then a hydraulic roller cam kit.

I have this cam in a 412 CID engine and it has good street manners from idle to 6500 rpm. You can drive it like gramma or like John force. The off idle performance is excellent and very drivable. I would recommend this cam for any large street strip engine.

The off idle/ low speed performance would probably be less desirable in a smaller engine. Go big or stay home.

Wow! This camshaft its awensome, push hard a low rpm, very strong low end torq;

My 4,500 lb ’65 Impala(4,700 lbs with my fat but in it) with a sbc 383 with this cam, Patriot performance heads, Howards retro Roller lifters, Scorpion 1. 6:1 roller rockers, Weiand Air Strike intake(basically their version of an RPM Air Gap) 850 Holley DP carb, cheap 383 rotating assembly of Speed-Pro hyper pistons, OC cast steel crank, 5.

7″ I-beam Ohio Crankshaft cap screw rods, Pioneer harmonic balancer in a factory 2 bolt block with main studs in front of a 700R4 with a TCI 3,000 stal with lockup, spinning a Chevy 12 bolt with 3. 07:1 rear gear ratio that I installed a used GM Posi unit in with 275/60R15 BFG drag radial tires.

This combo in this very heavy car with this cam does high 1. 8 60 ft times and the best to date of 13. 20 and 101 MPH in the QM! If I had the right valve springs I think I would probably be at least.

2 faster!!(so close to 12s!!!) Using the hydraulic flat tappet springs that came with the assembled heads I installed, need to upgrade those! This same engine in a 3,400 lb car I think would be well in the low 12s with the same drivetrain! I owe most of it to how well this cam makes gobs of low RPM torque to get my land barge moving and even revs to 6,000 with the wrong springs.

With this cam and the 700R4 I even get 15 MPG city and over 20 MPG highway!(keeping my foot out of it, which is hard to do at times!) Talk about best of both worlds with this cam!! So a great all around cam, street/strip, truck tow, MPG, daily driver and so on.

Who says you need a cam that doesn’t pull any vacuum at idle to run fast, this cam pulls 21 in. of vacuum at idle in my little sbc 383! More than enough to run any vacuum accessory ever made, probably all at once(LOL).

You don’t want this cam with to much gear though, its not needed. 9. 5:1 rear gear multiplication ratio(rear gear ratio X 1st gear ratio of trans 3. 07(rear gear ratio)x 3. 06(1st gear trans ratio)) is more than enough, if there is any more than that consider a cam with duration @.

050″. 5 out of 5 stars from me, very happy with how this cam runs in my 383, I highly recommend it. (just hope my endorsement doesn’t make the price go up because I have been thinking of buying anther one for my K-5 Blazer!) Maybe they’ll give me a discount but I won’t hold my breath.

LOL GLTA.

Apparently Comp Cams is still selling these cam and lifter kits with the old pictures, CAVEAT EMPTOR! The lifters are not the old style shown in the pictures with the hardened faces and stout retaining springs.

They are not what is shown in the pictures at all and are NOT made by Delphi if my research is correct. These are an off-shore/off brand and are not what we are used to for lifters from CC. I sent my kit back and will not be using their hyd flat-tappet lifter cam kits again unless they change back to a higher quality lifter.

Nothing but horror stories from people who have broken in their CC cams following the procedures to the letter and still, wiping a lobe or two at least. Not worth the trouble to build a new motor and then wipe it out immediately with a pile of garbage lifter.

C’mon, Comp Cams!! What happened to your quality we are all so familiar with from you?!?.