20 Best Spray Paint For Rusty Truck Frame (2023 Updated)

Overall a this appears to be a very good product. the hose worked good for all the little tight spots and inside the frame. I really don’t understand all the negative comments about the hose. yes, it comes coiled, but hot water, or a heat gun easily solve that.

plus, I taped a piece of wire to it anyway so it wouldn’t bunch up in the frame. the paint is very liquid so it runs into all the corners well an drys to a very hard finish that is hard to scrape off.

I don’t guarantee compatibility in your case, however I used it with POR15 with no issues. I painted everything I could reach with POR15 and a brush, and used this for the hard to reach places and inside the frame on my toyota tacoma.

I let the POR15 dry first. as for the inside of the frame, I wanted make darn sure I had a good coat, so I may have used a little more than needed (I didn’t go to crazy) but I still used far more than the 3 cans they recommend.

i used 8 cans total. that was for the inside (about 4. 5 cans) and about half of the outside of the frame. I checked with my camera after the first coat and it definitely had missed a few spots but seemed excellent after the 2nd.

My frame is fairly rusty so that too probably sucked up a lot more paint than a newer rust free frame. only time will really tell, but I will absolutely be using this product again on my other rigs as soon as I get the time.

Also, I used black because I used it on parts of the outside of the frame too, But I think the green would be far better for the inside frame for the color contrast to help confirm a good coat.

Sprays and coats the inside of frame better than advertised using the 360 extension nozzle, but I found, after using the first can, it worked a lot better once I attached the extension with a dab of contact cement.

Something like “Crazy Glue” probably would have worked just as well or better, it definitely would have been neater. I used two coats of the Internal Frame Coating on the inside of the Jeep YJ frame.

For the first coat, I used the Internal Frame Coating – Green, because of the contrast of the green to the black of the frame, it was easy to determine, using a colour inspection camera, that I hadn’t missed any area, and that the interior of the frame was evenly coated.

Then I used the Internal Frame Coating – Black, for my second coat, for the same reason, contrast, using the inspection camera, I was able to determine that the entire surface of the frames interior was evenly coated and that I hadn’t missed anything.

When using this product, it always works best, when you follow the manufacturers instructions.

The hose nozzle sprays a nice conical pattern for good coverage. I used a stiff wire taped to the nozzle to help guide to where I wanted it to go. The length was good and I was able to get to all the places I wanted.

Cleaning the hose after use was a bit of work but doable with some paint thinner and compressed air. How th product holds up over time is unknown as it will take ten to fifteen years to find out.

It has held up very well! I did notice some fading where it was used more, but that was to be expected! I had to use two coats so the bottom color didn’t shine through! But overall held up very well!

I like this product and have never had a problem with it. It is not a heavy undercoating like some cars are manufactured with, it is a thinner finish when dried. Good product when used per instructions and shaken often during application.

Spray onto a clean dry surface. If the surface is dirty, it’s not gonna stick. If the surface is oily, it’s not gonna dry in the oily areas. It applies heavy, so spray lightly or be prepared for runs.

It does in most cases foam up but it will shrink down somewhat as it dries. it does spray brown but dries to black. If sprayed in humid environment, it may cause condensation on the coated surface and water may puddle on some top horizontal surfaces.

I rebuild classic cars for a hobby, and have done so since the 70’s, so I know a thing or 2, trust me, if you follow procedure, it will more than satisfy.

VHT is always great paint, dries fast, covers great, and is pretty durable used it to paint the roll cage, insides of my doors, and my dash, looks great! Would recommend VHT spray paint for any use whether its painting your engine, roll cage, exhaust, or even painting your fireplace (:

wanted to see a better contrast on the frame to go with a cast blast undercarriage this seems to do the trick

This is excellent for painting frames. Power wash frame and paint it. Covers nice but needs to be put on in 2 or 3 light coats to keep from getting runs.

very satisfied fast shipping perfect match thank you mike

I actually had a can left over that I used on my fire pit cover and it’s the 1st time what I painted it with actually held up through the elements (winter included) and is still fine. This time I bought a 6 pack to paint the bottom supports of my deck (wood) which I’m re-doing (I used the left over can to start the job and wanted it uniform).

Looks great, shipped fast and ZORO had the best price. Would definitely recommend.

Extremely dissatisfied. Color is rather grayish. Creates a lot of drips. Very liquid, Not glossy enough. The worst paint

This is just like if you go to a body shop supply and have them mix you a can of paint. Not the off the shelf stuff. This gets stringy like car paint does if you touch it half dried. Has a nice shine too.

Good for details.

I’ve used Rust-Oleum products before on car parts and even painted cars with HVLP guns. Rust-Oleum and Walmart need to pull this from the shelves. I used this on a new trailer hitch, freshly sanded, cleaned, a and prepped.

I sprayed between 60 and 75 degrees Fahrenheit on several different days following the directions on distance exactly. I got tons of gritty dry spray on the surface. I switched to a can I had of Rust-Oleum self-etching primer and had no problems with that.

I see that other reviews are stating the same results. Walmart, please pull this from the shelves.

it actually worked m your summit brand came without a cap and when I pushed the cap on it dripped everywhere but where I was spraying it. Ruined my panel, had to be completely sanded back down. Please QUALITY CONTROL your summit brand its making you look bad and way overpriced compared to Walmart.

WILL NOT RISK IT NEXT TIME.

The way the paint laid down when spraying. You can achieve pro looking finish from a rattle can. Your preparation before spraying makes all the difference in the world. Great paint, awesome finish.

Paint is awesome and would be great product if the paint would spray correctly. I have recently start a project and purchased about 5 cans and no matter how aggressive you shake em to perhaps not shaken them they will stop spraying half way thru and for $13 a can that is a rip off and need to get a better can distributor as I will not buy another one until I seen that has been done or your gonna lose your money.

Take them off the shelves for now is my vote.

IšverstiShow in original languageI tried a couple application methods because I wasn’t aware it would be so thin. It is so thin you could easily spray it without any reducer. I brushed with sponge brushes, bristle brushes, rolled and sprayed.

I like the normal style bristle brush finish best on the frame and it knocks off any loose scale you might have missed. Spray is best for areas that you’re going to see. It literally penetrates the way Ospho does, so a thin coat is all you need.

I sprayed the engine bay and walked all over it for the next few days doing wiring and engine install, and it hasn’t chipped anywhere. I bought a quart and it did pretty much everything under the hood.

IšverstiShow in original languageHave tried the rust encapsulator, wire brushed the original rusty surface and brush applied. Looks really good, pretty stinky though. I tried both one layer and two layers- after about a month of regular driving, all the rust comes back.

Tried two layers, the same problem. Have used on several vehicles on both rusty to lightly rusty surfaces with the same results. A year later and it look like I never even applied this stuff. really dissapointing as I removed entire suspensions/subframes and painted them only to have them look like crap a year later.

IšverstiShow in original languageWhen you have gone to the local auto parts store and saw some sort of rust encapsulating product, the Eastwood Rust Encapsulator is what you wanted and imagined. I’ve bought several versions of this sort of product but non of them did what was advertised.

Eastwood’s delivers. I had a rusty part of a bumper off my Hummer I coated with the spray can version. I ran out with just a small area uncovered. I pulled out a can of duplicolor’s rust product I had laying around to finish cover the area just to ensure against flash rusting.

There was light dew overnight. The next morning everything covered with duiplicolor was rusted. I bought more of the Eastwood product, sanded off the duplicolor and put Eastwood down. More than a couple weeks later, it looks exactly like it did when I painted it.

Now for the tips and tricks- in order to get into the little crevices in rough rust it has to be a thin or low viscosity product (otherwise surface tension will keep it from getting down in the cracks.

) So. this product is runny. The picture on the website shows using a foam brush. I really don’t recommend this in practice. I started off with one, but the foam holds too much of the encapsulant and the moment you touch the part and compress the foam the encapsulant runs like water off your part.

Instead use an inexpensive bristle brush. It really doesn’t leave brush marks because it is so thin. If this is going to be a part visible or painted over, you probably want to go with the spray can or use your own spray gun.

Using a brush, you can probably reduce the number of coats you might do with a can, as it invariably is thicker going on. If you buy the can, I found that you can get all the coverage you need for the area the can says it covers.

Most other products you can get one thin coat coving the area the can says it covers so it is a great buy. I’d recommend buying both the spray can and the quart container for any project because the can just gets you into some places the brush has a hard time with.

Used this product to soundproof my wheel wells and reduce the tire noise on my Hyundai Accent. Six cans and many coats were applied. It reduced the noise until it all wore off three months later. I cleaned the wheel well cover and roughed it up with a wire brush.

Followed instructions and made sure it cured over a 24 hour period above 50 degrees. Didn’t work. It won’t stick permanently to hard plastic wheel well covers evidently.

I always get great results from Rust-Oleum, I have used other undercoatings and I prefer the Quality of this undercoating. The cans have more volume than others I have used as well as the price is very good for the quality and volume of the product compared to others I have used.

I also like the way it comes out of the spray nozzle. it sprays very even and has very consistent coverage, while spraying the nozzle stays open much better than others I have used.

The actual paint and finish is quite good but Rust-Oleum really need to use better spray nozzles. I normally use a spray gun but sometimes like the convenience of a spray can and as much as I like Rust-Oleum’s products, their spray nozzles just let their product down.

I often decanter their paint into my spray gun and the finish is superb.

This is just gloss paint. If your trim has a little flattness, or matte to it then skip this paint. I put rustoleum black automotive primer on as suggested and sanded with 600. Then put 4 light coats on 3-4 minutes apart.

It has been 18 hours since I applied the coating and is very dry to the touch and still very shiny (Not like the cap which is matte). I think I am going to have to go buy matte paint. However, I will have to say that it did cover.

Paint has decent coverage initially, nozzle gets clogged continuously after 1/4 can and start splattering. Tried wiping nozzle but that did not work. One can instead of paint a big puff of black powder came out and ruined my project.

This is the worst product I have ever used. If I could give it negative review would give it a -10. I previously did touch-up paint on my 1999 Ford Ranger truck five years ago with Rustoleum Auto Spray Paint, which I can no longer find.

It worked great, no runs, no pitting, no problems blending newly painted areas, and it has lasted five years. Krylon Rust Tough was recommended by the Advanced Auto store salesperson. It is absolutely Horrible! I have re-done my tailgate three times already and will have to re-do it again.

The surface was prepped to directions. [stripped down to bare metal, primed per directions and wet-sanded according to directions to prep surface for final paint, making sure surface was clean of all dirt, dust, grease, etc.

spraying in a closed in garage, temps btwn 70-80 degrees outside] This paint runs very bad. When you try to wet sand with 2000 grit the paint dissolves down to the primer. [two coats with adequate time between coats to allow paint to cure].

It is impossible to blend new paint areas. This last time the paint went on smooth, then pitted and bubbled in various areas as the paint dried. A huge waste of time and money to use this product. Would never recommend it to anyone.

This enamel worked on surfaces that were fresh and primered. If sprayed over another brand of enamel, it would craze and crack the underlying paint. Not always compatible with underlying finishes.

The finish was nice, dried with a nice clear thick finish coat. However, be careful with multiple coats on the same pass. Even though I thinned the product 10% as instructed it dried quick and if I did a second pass without it completely drying it left white bubbles and a rough uneven finish is some spots.

So go from the top down and with a thin coat and allow it to dry to the recommended 1 to 2 hours. Then apply the second and third coat (if needed).