19 Best Single Stage Reloading Press (2023 Updated)

I use it in my woodworking shop. The plastic cover for the spring adjustment (pulls the chuck back up) needs help. Will not come off unless the tabs break and then it is useless. That is a real problem.

The depth adjustment set is a little rough and stiff. I am hoping it will work more smoothly with use. Some roughness to the housing and some parts but not bad. Overall it seems like a good machine. I don’t think it is made as good as Jet was in the past.

I might buy it again but not real sure If I had the opportunity to see it in a store first. I almost bought the Rikon.

Recently retired my 34 year old drill press and went shopping for a drill press that had features for wood working. The following are the features that attracted me to thiss modeel. Heavy construction, cast metal head.

Seems very sturdy. This unit can make a hole and impressive 5 inches deep. I find normal drill preses have a drilling depts of only 3 inches. Uses a flat belt drive for great traction. Multi pully layout supports 16 speeds.

Uses an ideler roller that is easy losten belrs, make changes and quickly re-tension. Large power button, and off paddle in the front of the unit. The drilling table has several features that are attractive to wood workers: -Angled slots for easy positioning of hold down devices.

-Large square table for you projects. -T-Slots built into cast metal table for alternate use of other T-slot hold down clams that may already be in your sho. -Easily replaceable sacrificial square drilling block in the middle of the table.

Takes standard 3/4″ stock and has leveling scres for the block built into the table. -Moderatly easy to adjust table height. -Table can be tipped for angle drilling up to 90 degrees Has built in last cross hair ro align work.

Cross hair accuracy is goo. Has built in work light. It is an LED unit that has a narrow focus and points straight down. Unfortunatly it lights the drill press post better than the work surface. This is a negative.

The power cords needs to another 3-4 Ft longer. Would help avoid extension cords. The bright green LED power on light is right at my eye level abd somewhat annoying. Add a tool holder for the wrenches and chuck key to mount some where convenient on the head of the unit.

Overall I give this unit two thumbs up.

Perfect delivery in perfect condition. Fast, too. Assembly is straightforward and easy. I assembled on the ground and lifted the complete press. All functions work as intended. The real surprise, though, was lack of runout.

I measured. 0005 at the chuck (i. e. , generally worse than the spindle itself). Yup, five tenths. Amazing. Stable. Good sized table with replaceable insert. A little fussy getting the table rotation to work smoothly, but nailed it in a few tries adjusting the rack collar.

There’s some minor casting roughness in the table openings, but 2 minutes with a file takes care of that. Cleanup was easy as the machine does NOT arrive slathered with cosmoline. A quick wipedown with mineral spirits left it spotless, which I followed with my machine protector of choice.

I thought long and hard about buying this press rather than a Nova DVR press or one of the better-made Reeves drive presses out there. (3-phase/inverter presses were priced way outside my spending limits.

) In the end I opted for simplicity and longevity. The JDP-17’s idler does make belt changing far faster and easier. No more loosening of the motor mount. Good press.

The 20-inch version of this drill press turned out to be bigger and more substantial than I expected. It is VERY solidly built and will last the rest of my life, for sure. I downgraded to a smaller chuck, since most of what I will use it for is smaller jobs.

I had only a few minor complaints, none of which was truly a big deal in the long run. First, this is a VERY heavy unit, and you should expect to need help from at least one (possibly two) more strong people to assemble it.

Lifting the head/motor unit onto the column/base is not a job for one person unless you are a Nordic dead-lift champion. I used an engine hoist and some strong straps to accomplish the lift, but I wouldn’t do it that way again.

Seriously, it is unwieldy and ridiculously heavy if you’re by yourself. Don’t do it. Second, the assembly instructions (just like most Chinese machines of any kind) are not quite right in some places.

Some of the diagrams do not match the actual components. The table of my unit was already assembled, and the instructions did not reflect that. The pilot feed handles and table locking clamp were a totally different style than what was shown in the manual.

And so on. Again, not a big deal. At least the manual’s spelling and grammar was good. Finally, all the edges of the table, especially the edges of the slots, were razor-sharp. I spent 10 minutes on them with a Dremel tool fitted with a drum sander, and now they are as smooth as butter.

I highly recommend you do this before handling the table, or you’ll end up looking like that scene in the movie “Carrie. ” Note: Unlike some drill presses, there is no center hole in the table, so you can’t be forgetful in the way you set up your work.

The precision seems to be very good, although I don’t have any numbers to back that up yet. It has a very stable base, and the table is large and well-lit from a single 60W LED bulb. Changing speeds with the belts is dirt-simple and easy.

Overall, I highly recommend this drill press.

To start the order and delivery process was smooth. That was the good part. the drill press itself is a letdown. It does drill well and has plenty of power, BUT. The instructions do not match well with the parts and pieces.

Jet needs to update to reflect the correct assembly of the press. The fit and finish of the machine is horrible at best. Whoever ground the table should not be running the surface grinder. The depth of the grind marks varied a great deal in the table.

I had to sand down the thickness of the table by about. 050 to get most of the roughness out of the table. Then the quality of the table casting itself is very poor. Lots of casting flash and very uneven t-slots in table.

Next we have the pulley arrangement. None of them line up with the others. either too high or low or not parallel. Not off by a large amount but not what I would consider good for this price of machine.

Finally there is the issue of smoothness of the quill travel. Very rough. I took the mechanism apart and cleaned the gears up and removed some burrs. Added grease where it was missing and this helped considerably.

I would not rate this a $1000. 00 drill press. I purchased this strictly for metal work. I compare this to the Delta 18-900L that I own for woodworking. The delta fit and finish is considerably better that the Jet.

I paid the same for both machines.

I put the drill to the test today. 160 pieces of square steel drilling holes. I ran the machine for 2 1/2 hours with an aggregate down time of 5 minutes meaning I only turned the machine off 4 times in this time.

I was operating at 150 rpm. The drill bogged down a few times but my poor quality drill bits are more likely the cause and me trying to force the speed. When I first put it together by myself, it was tough.

I used my front end loader to lift the head into place otherwise, it is most definitely a 2 if not 3 person assembly when it’s time for the head.

I’ve been using my 2800B drill press for 18 months. I and a hobbyist that uses the machine pretty lightly and wanted this to be the last drill press I would ever need to buy. It has a ton of great features, a large table with a good fence, long quill travel, work light, built heavy feels solid all around, and variable speed.

The variable speed is the cause of so much frustration. From day one, changing from 250 to 3000 RPM is a 2 hand job and you feel it in your arms. In the short time I’ve used this machine I’ve worn a set of belts.

Talking to the JPW tech, this is “normal” and apparently normal to spend $300 for a set of belts to keep the machine running. It is absurd to me that a machine that cost this much and a company with a reputation for being the “gold standard” has such a poorly designed variable speed.

Purely on the cost to operate, I am once again searching for the last drill press I will need to buy.

Bought this machine from a local tool company in Salt Lake. Worked great for the first 7-8 months then started to loose power and had sporadic speed control. After reading a few reviews on line it is confirmed the upper pulley on the main shaft becomes locked due to belt fragments between the shaft and pulley.

Was extremely hard to free the pulley and consequently the belt(s) shreds itself of material which in turn gums up the shaft. Took some time to get the pulley free from the shaft. The pulley really needs a stronger spring to keep the pulley from becoming locked on the shaft.

I could have bought 4 standard drill press machines for the same price with less or no trouble. Definitely has its design flaws!.

I have been waiting a while for a price drop and finally got a 10% discount at Rockler. I replaced my trusty 20 year old 3/4 HP Delta floor drill press with this 1 HP PM2800B model. I upgraded from the Delta to get out of the Stone Age with better technology.

Quickly sold the Delta on Craigs List to an eager young woodworker. I love the new digital rpm readout with the variable speed hand wheel, the bright LED work lights, the easy to adjust laser crosshairs and dual voltage.

I’m 65 and retired but still athletic. I proudly assembled everything by myself. First the base and column with the tray positioned at the lowest point on column. I positioned the power head (still in its styrofoam box) on my hydraulic lift table near the edge at the tables lowest level about a foot high.

Tilted the column over and gently leaned it on the edge of the table near the power head. I cut some of the styrofoam out of the way then I maneuvered the power head onto the column and gently bolted it into position, leaving room for it to slide about a foot towards the edge without falling to the floor.

I then slowly jacked up the hydraulic table so the column with power head was a little more than a 45 degree angle to the shop floor from the lift table. Then I easily muscled the assembled drill press into an upright position and then walked the drill press into place on the shop wall a few feet away.

If I was another 10 years older I would probably need help. LOL!.

I’ve been looking for a single stage press for a while now and I decided that the Forster Coax was the one I wanted. I received my box in perfect shape yesterday within 2 weeks as expected with the current shipping delays.

It’s function seems to be as advertised but the finish was pretty awful. It looks to have a red powder coating on it that has numerous chips and black marks all over the body of the press. Additionally, it had some sort of string that appears to be tied to one of the priming station bolts (I assumed it was a factory detail) turns out it was what appeared to be s h a g carpeting fibers that gotten lodged in there.

Looking at it I have to wonder if someone gave me a used floor model along the way? All that being said it does seem to function, but its not pretty.

Just getting used to the press. The shell holder jaws are a nice feature. Gave away all my caliber specific shell holders. I expect the floating nature of the shell holder jaws and the die system will improve ammo quality.

I added the lights to it. I really like the way it handles spent primers. You don’t end up with an occasional primer on the floor with this system.

I have a couple of RCBS presses and have always been a bit annoyed with having to push cases into the shell holders when rims are a bit thicker then normal. This Co-Ax press shell holder is a technology leap.

No specific size shell holder required. Set the shell on the flat and begin the down stroke. holder closes centering the shell perfectly. Amazing piece of technology.

I absolutely love the Redding T7 Turret Press. The auto prime is a great addition making priming a lot easier than placing a primer in the cup each time. Set up and adjustments were a snap. The large ball handle makes positive control effortless.

Once set up- it works quite well. Brand new addition to brand new T-7 press. Some initial adjustments to technique from RCBS Rockchucker- but works very well, and predictably. Readily accepts slightly modified primer tubes for my Dillon system too.

Really like the ease of changing out primer sizes.

By far the best priming system designed for a single stage or turret press that I have used. It is easy to get into a rhythm using it and I believe priming goes almost as quickly as with my hand priming tool.

I have it mounted on a T 7 turret press and it is a quick size/de-prime/ re-prime then on to the next die. The large and small primer tubes are nice quality. However I have discovered that Dillon and Star primer pick up and feed tubes will also work with this.

The metal shroud that screws into the base to protect the user in case of a detonation is very well made and substantial enough to protect the user. The one challenge in using this system as it was purchased is switching between the small and large primer holders.

It is not a hard job it just takes time. I solved that problem by purchasing second slide bar. Then it is an easy swap of the slide bar with the correct small or large primer cup all ready mounted on it.

In summary: No gripes; big smile, Five Stars! Yes, buy it.

This is a profession quality drill press. It is hefty at around 150 pounds of steel. Not a lot of plastic crap on this drill press. Motor and mechanical runs super smooth and true. Table is rock solid and can be set on a tilt.

The three handles for operating the press have been updated to a super comfortable and solid thick rubber grip over steel rods. Make sure you have room for this guyit isnt small!.

At this price point the drill press is fine. No complaints there. However, you should check your runout when your machine arrives. The drill chuck Jet sent me the first time had runout that exceeded.

01″. To their credit, they very promptly replaced the chuck with one that’s running ~0. 002″ runout. I’m happy with that.

I needed a drill press for metal, capable of drilling 17/32 in 1/4 steel and 11/16 in cast iron. The Jet works great. Lots of power, no chatter, no belt slipping, nice slow 200 rpm. The chuck is nice, and the light feature is nice.

The on off buttons are stiff, hope they hold up. The table finish is a little rough but OK. The 3 1/4 travel is adequate but my last press had 4 1/2. In short the Jet drill press I purchased has lived up to Jet’s reputation.

Bought about 2 months ago. Easy to assemble. Packaging was good; no damage. Noticed a few finishing defects but not a bid deal. Highest speed on DRO was 2910, again not a big deal since I don’t know the accuracy of the DRO.

Biggest concern is the vibration at high speeds. Seems to run smooth at lower speeds and as speed is increased I noticed more vibration as I approached 2000 rpm. By the time hit full speed (2910) there is a very noticeable vibration being transferred to the handle.

Haven’t had much opportunity to see what’s causing the vibration. Also, table adjustment isn’t as smooth as I had expected. Overall not a bad DP for the money but the vibration at higher speeds is concerning.

I bought this model on sale at Woodcraft in Sacramento. It has turned out to be a money maker for my shop. I did have to adjust the laser, but that’s all part of setting it up. It is very versatile and the long drill depth is great.

I wish it had a little more depth for drilling my hollow body guitars. I guess I need a bigger press! I think it’s great and I highly recommend purchasing one. The digital readout and easy speed adjust lever makes jobs quick and easy.

Your going to love this drill press. Go ahead and buy that budget drill press, prepare yourself to be let down. learn from my mistake and do it right the first time. If you want to hear your significant other say, why are you buying another drill press? Go ahead and buy something else.

I have been looking for a replacement tube for my RCBS single stage reloading press without the high cost of purchasing a package of them from a supplier. Just what I needed and at a very reasonable price.

Fast and efficient shipping. I single stage load all my hunting and accuracy rounds to insure utmost accuracy with my firearms. Thank you again MIDSOUTH for being there when I needed you. Cudos to all your employees and staff.

Extra large primer tube to be used with the RCBS auto priming tool. (Spare tube).

Well if you bought this part you already have an RCBS press so you know they are high quality. I’ve been using one for 50 years. If I hadn’t tried to walk through the primer feed arm and bent it I wouldn’t be buying another one.

Just finished my first Arts and Craft Show, wish was a Success. The Dry Mount Press was fantastic! For two days the machine got a great work out. The photos on the Mount Boards were so impressive. When compared with professionally done prints with mine you could not tell the difference.

Buy this machine if you are a serious photographer who loves to prepare the photos for display. Claudette Gainesville, Florida.

I use RCBS products because they “work”. I was very pleased when I found that an RCBS primer arm fits the rusty old Pacific reloading press that I picked up at an estate sale like it was made for it.

(Apparently Pacific was bought out by Hornady several decades ago, so parts for the Pacific press can be a problem to locate. ) I read online that the RCBS primer arm has a stronger return spring than the original Pacific primer arm.

The same post noted that the RCBS primer arm can be easily converted fro large primers to small primers (by simply using a paperclip as a tool). I can confirm that the RCBS primer arm fits the Pacific reloading press.

I am gifting the Pacific reloading press with its new RCBS primer arm to my brother, who hasn’t reloaded ammo in close to 50 years. Sometimes the simplest solution to a problem is the best one. I can’t wait to hear what he thinks of it.

I really recommend this over the handheld primer press. After about 60 rounds with the handheld you want to swear off reloading as its so tiring on the forearm to squeeze and squeeze and squeeze. With the loading press primer tool, all you do is put the case in the holder, swing the primer tool into the ram and pull it down to seat the primer.

Since its nowhere near the magazine, there is no chance of setting off all the primers. This accessory really makes reloading a breeze and very quick even if you insist on getting everything exactly like the round before it.

I have an old Pacific Cpress and the primer spring broke. This fit perfectly. Good quality. Works good as new.

Works great. Does not leave marks on bullets so they can be reused. Had a bad batch of. 223 that I did not have the Full length sizing die set properly as well as neck tension. Saves brass, primers, powder, and bullets.

Quickly paid for itself!!! Well worth it for the cost of this tool! Especially with todays prices on Ammunition!!! Highly recommended! Never used one, but I imagine it is a lot better than inertia bullet pullers.

Works quickly and efficiently.

This thing is a lifesaver! I had 200 9mm bullets that I had loaded a little too hot and wasn’t satisfied with. Have used my kinetic hammer puller before, but dreaded the tedious, messy process that goes with it.

Fitted this puller with the 9. 3 mm collet and mounted on an extra press. I was amazed and thrilled at the ease of pulling the bullets. Pulled all 200 in less than an hour and recovered the powder. No damage to the bullets (124 grain Speer GDHP).

I will be getting collets for some of my other calibers and saying good-bye to the dreaded hammer (kinetic) puller!.

Forget the one made by Hornady. That thing is junk. Too much fussing around to adjust, and it’s too easy to damage your bullets. This one by RCBS is fantastic. Super easy to adjust, and fast. Not to mention it will not leave a mark on your bullet jackets.

Great item. buy one!.

I have used RCBS for over 50 years. My large primer sleeve jammed up with a crimped primer pocket so I needed a replacement. Due to current circumstances there were none in stock locally or on line, only found them on eBay, priced way above what had been retail, but available, so I bought some.

This is a very integral part on my RCBS press. You can’t seat primers without it. I was surpised and glad that MidSouth Shooters had them. They are always my “go to” guys for specialty items like this.

Just like the original. Worked perfect. Was even a little beveled on the sleeve which is a nicer fit with the primers.

I had to have a good 30 caliber bullet pullet because my reloads got wet in a shed disaster. Nothing wrong with the bullet pullet, an excellent, must have item. Unfortunately due to COVID, reloading supplies dwindled to zero.

I had to pay $136 for a $30 item. Any consideration from anyone is appreciated. On the other hand, as a NRA member and disabled American Veteran. I supported the community to stay in business. If the industry would just crank up and start making more (lots) of reloading supplies, primers, powder, bullets and brass.

The Law Abiding American Public would buy those items and make the industry stronger. God Bless America, the NRA, and Law Abiding Citizens.

As does all of the other RCBS bullet puller collets, this one worked like a champ to pull some. 500 S&W bullets from some empty cases. I was setting-up some bullet seating dies and seated a few bullets that needed pulling.

Nice piece, works perfectly. FYI you will need the RCBS bullet puller tool to go with this collet in order to pull bullets as recommended. Once you have the tool, you can add a variety of collets for a variety of calibers, all of which fit the same RCBS bullet puller tool.

It’s a nice system, fit’s right into your RCBS or any standard press. You will need the appropriate shell holder as well, but most reloaders will know this.

The drill press is typical of Jet quality. I have no doubts that this tool will give many decades of service. It is well built with heavy use of cast iron. I don’t see where the bean counters cut any corners.

Put it to work without any fears. The price I paid was less than I could find an old American drill press for. No regrets here.

I have a Lyman case length headspace gauge for the calibres that I reload for (9mm, 45acp,. 223, 44 mag, 308 win, 45-70 gov) so I naturally ordered one for 6. 5 CM when I started reloading for it. When the 6.

5 CM gauge arrived from Cabela’s, everything appeared good to go until I tried putting a brass case in the gauge. The case only went in so far as the bottom of the shoulder. A quick search on the internet and an email to Lyman revealed that quality control was not around when a batch was manufatured last March.

I returned the one from Cabela’s and will purchase one down the road once the stores selling the 6. 5 CM gauge stop selling the ones that don’t work.

If you reload for any semi auto firearms this is a must. This is especially true if you shoot range brass since some dies only neck size and may not size the body. Many comblock weapons have different chambers so this gauge makes sure you are to speck.

If you are loading for semi autos I would also purchase a small base die for your caliber if you’re consistently getting rejected brass. Keeps you shooting and not removing suck cartridges at the range.

Exceedingly high quality. Provides accurate measure of maximum and minimum headspace dimensions as well as maximum and trim length for rifle cases. The included instructions are clear and informative.

Excellent value.

This swager is the greatest since sliced bread. It’s easy to set up, it does a great job and fast, it’s very affordable and WORTH IT, and it’s made by Lee, which means they’ll stand behind it. As far as the very few negative reviews on here(out of MANY), maybe they got a lemon, and if that’s the case, contact Lee.

Or maybe they work for RCBS and are worried about losing business to Lee. But either way, I’ll take the Lee Ram Swage over the RCBS contraption ANY DAY! I’ve swaged THOUSANDS of cases on my Lee without issue, and it’s still chugging along.

Another home run from Lee Precision!!.

Bought this for scavenged 45ACP brass. More than a little of it had crimped in primers. What a pain in the sphincter area to run through a progressive! Initially thought I could just use a chamfer tool on the offending pockets.

HAH! Bought this and just ran ALL of it through a single stage on this swager. Problem solved. Don’t fight it trying to get primers seated. Just get one and it will clean up your reloading language substantially.

The best primer pocket swager I’ve used. I also have the Lyman primer pocket cutter and the RCBS swager. The cutter takes too long and the cases stick in the RCBS. This Lee swager sizes the primer pocket and the cases practically fall off of the swaging stud that goes in the shell holder place on your press.

I have stores I think this about. If they don’t have it. you don’t need it The Lee manual is not only full of basic information about the specs and details of reloading, but covers most of the basic aspects of all the little steps and tricks used every day in the reloading process, and a lot of other things to do and watch out for.

I have been out of the reloading game for many years and am essentially starting over. I consider this book a must have for doing this whole thing right. I want my shots to hit the bullseye, my weapon to perform properly every time and stay within safe specifications.

I am certain with the information in this book I can do that.

Yeah, I would like to recommend this to anyone who has an interest in reloading their own ammo. The author provides important information about pressure levels with each caliber along with the corresponding powder charge.

A lot of the information will overlap with other manuals, but I also enjoyed the articles the author included with this book. Now, be warned that since it’s written by Richard Lee, he promotes his products though out, but it’s really not a deal breaker as far as I’m concerned.

It’s worth a look for sure.

Reloading manuals tend to serve their publisher’s purposes, hence many are made by bullet makers, some by powder makers, and some by reloading gear makers. You can fill your shelf with these books and still you can’t find a recipe for the powder that looks promising for the bullet and weight you want to use.

Clearly the powder makers are looking to show off powder performance with popular bullet weights and types while bullet makers are showing off their bullets with popular powders. Lee likely hasn’t tested any loads itself, but has drawn data together from all sources and newest calibers into this updated volume.

It’s a very good compendium, but, of course, if what you are specifically looking for hasn’t been tested and published, it’s likely not here either. As a compendium it is a great one-stop-shop, and includes details about reloading, bullets, ballistics, etc.

that make this book excellent for a new reloader. Lee’s book also includes powder burning rate list, volumetric density list, powders by weight by volumetric Lee Dipper size, and powders by weight using Lee’s Volumetric Disks for their Powder Dispenser.

I’d toss all but certain older books (e. g. , Speer #11) which contain recipes for powders no longer made, but bottles of which may still be sealed, fresh, and on hand – or to investigate what the loading listed on that box of cartridges can do, since the powder isn’t found in modern manuals (nor the Lee manuals).

The Aluminum threaded top pc that holds the upper spring and plunger is prone to destroy the threads if you have to put a lot of pressure on the unit to swedge some case pockets. It should be made of steel since it is a critical pressure point between the APP Aluminum top plate.

I do not recommend at any price to do anything more than 9mm. I did 277 7. 62×39 and it almost popped the threads out of the APP.

This is a great swage used in conjunction with the Lee APP! Setup and adjustment is super easy. I made quick work out of swaging 500 pieces of Lake City 5.56. I would buy again

With a case feeder, you have to purposefully slow down when using this tool. It is an amazing piece of equipment and makes processing military brass a breeze.

It works. I haven’t had the pleasure of using many different brands. There were a couple of things that stood out to me as negative features. Compared to the old Herters Dies i have. 1. The lock ring system has got to be the worst out there.

Its held from spinning out of place with a rubber “O” ring instead of a set screw. It would not be hard to accidentally move the ring enough while changing dies and result in you having to “set it up” again the next time you go to use it.

I mean this is a cheap design. Come on guys im paying about $70 bucks to get these, I would probably pay another couple bucks for a nice lock ring, mkay? 2. I don’t like the set up for the depriming rod.

Its held in place by compression, not threads. It makes it hard to set to a specific depth if so you wanted. I will say that they seem to be nicely machined. No burrs on the threads or anything like that.

Maybe i was expecting too much but nothing about these dies made me feel like i was getting anything near a high end or even high middle. I get the low middle to low end vibe.

Bought this a week ago and just had it come in. Got it in. 223,. 243,. 270. No matter the amount of lube I had put on and in the neck my cases would stick bad or would rip the rim off while in the resizing and decapping die cause it was would get stuck.

Wasted 4. 223 shells because they got stuck. Wasted 2. 243 shells. And 6. 270 shells. The last. 270 shell is when I had the decapping pin break. And now can’t reload my. 270. One case works the next gets stuck.

It’s a pain. I tried tuning in many ways and they still get stuck. Just gotta keep trying. They are good because they are cost effective and have the shell holder. Going to get into contact with cabelas and see if they will replace it.

Was also going to buy in 7mm rem mag if they ever get it in stock.

LEE makes good die sets, and I like their FCD. But, the interior surface of the Full-Length sizer and the FCD are ROUGH. I’m debating whether to try to polish it up myself, or send it back to LEE. BUT — I’m finding the same problem with the other 2 popular brands — the Green brand, and the Orange brand.

Their dies are also very rough on the inside surface, and it will chew up your brass unless you polish the die. Polishing requires some finesse, skill, and time. The days of off-the-shelf High Quality products is dead and gone.