Best Ryzen Cpu For Gaming And Streaming (2024 Updated)

Went from a 3600x to this. Prior system config had a number of issues, some were known causes (5700xt + PCIe gen 4, looking at you). With new setup, there were improvements across the board. Everything is smoother and faster.

Used primarily for gaming and photo editing, I was a little surprised at the improvement it brought to gaming. The fps improved noticeably, but more importantly everything also became smoother, fewer stutters and moments of lower frame count.

I don’t think the 3600x should have been bottlenecking anything on the prior configuration. I was able to rule out thermal paste or CPU cooler issues (and used the same on the new CPU) so whether some problems I had before were due to bad luck on the CPU lot draw, or improvements in other areas of CPU tech between generations, etc.

the end result was that the machine actually feels like it’s now high end, especially after upgrading the GPU now as well. Bottom line is that this is a great processor. It was hard to justify at the prices when released, but once it dropped below 400 after the 5800x3d cpu came out, I couldn’t pass it up.

It should last me some years before I feel the need to jump to the new socket. If you’re already on AM4 this is easily worth it, but if you need a full new system and can wait a bit, it might be better to get the newer gen socket when it comes out.

Pros: The r7 5800X is a massive upgrade over my previous R7 1700 non-x. I noticed about 15-20 frames per second improvement in Hunt showdown at 2k. I would hover around 80 to 95 fps on medium high settings with at GTX 1080ti, now with everything else the same except for Motherboard, CPU and cooler i am getting consistent frames between 95 to 115 FPS with the same settings and the same old CL16 2666 corsair vengeance RAM.

I recommend getting a AIO watercooler for this CPU it definitely runs hotter than a R7 1700, due to its 105W TDP vs 65W TDP of the 1700. I am planning on upgrading my RAM to CL16 3200 or 3600 DDR4 ram because the 2-5% performance increase over 2666 RAM with Zen3 processors even though 2666 still lets this beast shine.

Cons: I think that the only con is that the original MSRP of 449. 99 is a bit steep considering the R5 5600X is only 299. 99 MSRP. I would wait for the a sale on this processor i was able to get this processor for 367.

99 before tax and 399. 87 after tax. For 400 with tax it is a definite buy otherwise save for the r9 5900x when they come back in stock or just settle for the r5 5600x. Notes: my Build AMD Ryzen R7 5800x stock clock Corsair H150i 360mm Elite Capellix Gigabyte x570 AORUS Elite Mobo Corsair CL16 2666 DDR4 Vengeance RAM EVGA ICX GTX 1080ti SC2 Samsung EVO 850 500GB SATA SSD.

The Ryzen 9 5950X is an astonishing processor that delivers excellent multi-threaded performance at the consumer level. You have a basic high end desktop (HEDT) without the accompanying high end price.

It’s an expensive CPU, but in the context of its performance it’s a bargain. There are plenty of other reviews out there that attest to this. The main issue I would like to highlight are the thermals.

I upgraded from a first generation Ryzen 7 1700 which used an AIO 240 water cooled setup. This was fine for the 1700 but it cannot cope with the 5950X when it is running with all its cores. The temperature rapidly rises to 90 deg C and then thermal throttling kicks in to declock the processor cores and reduce the temperature.

I’m very impressed because I had run into heat issues with the 1700 at one time (I think there was a bubble in the water loop) and that CPU would just shut down rather than declock. I’m not at all disappointed.

I had purchased with an open mind knowing that an upgrade to the CPU cooling might be necessary — but not before I installed it to see whether it really was needed or not. This review is to let others know that if you want the best, you’ve got to be prepared to support it with some quality cooling.

Good processor. Easy to install. Comes included with a RGB wraith cooler. Regarding the cooler, it has a cable attached which is for attaching to a fan header and ONLY controls the fan speed. For RGB it’s easy to miss the included RGB controller cables which are sellotaped to the underside of the plastic housing the cooler is in.

There should be two cables, one for plugging into an RGB header on the motherboard, the other for plugging into a USB 2 header. The other small ends plug into separate sockets on the side of the fan which are capped with two small rubber grommets which you will need to remove.

Best to do this next bit before attaching to the CPU as it is very fiddly and access will be restricted once you have installed it, (by the graphics card) Each RGB cable has it’s own dedicated socket.

For full control of the RGB (The fan has 3 zones -/fan/ring/logo) you need to use the USB one and DO NOT plug both in (it’s one or the other, if you plug both in it defaults to the RGB header one). For full (USB) control, you will also need to download the software which is available from Cooler Master.

If you use the RGB header you can only use the motherboard software to control the fan colour. The ring and logo will just cycle through different colours. Hope this helps.

I spent the whole on the Web and, so many people are reporting the exact same problem with ho solution to be found on any forum, this CPU is always running at boost frequency ( above 4 000 MHz ) whatever we try! Like all others I updated BIOS, chipset driver and I am on Windows Balanced power plan ( normal use, recommended ) but there is no way to get this CPU to entre idle frequency, which should be about 2 300 MHz.

Many of those affected with this problem contacted AMD support but they never got any help there. Now, I have a good CPU cooler and my temps remain in the 40’s bur the lifespan of this CPU will most probably be shortened by the fact that it can never rest.

And the same for my cooler, which runs now at 1 150 RPM min. all the time VS 900 with my Ryzen 7 1700X. Disappointed, really disappointed! Important update: I finally discovered that CPU-Z is just not reporting correctly clocks.

This CPU is really performant but boot time is longer than with my old 1700X. It works now fine, I keep it but it’s not perfect. One last thing it has a TDP of 65 watts and it runs hotter than my 1700X – which had 90 watts TDP.

Not way hotter ( and I have a good cooler ) but hotter.

I purchased nearly everything for my first PC build the same day. Aside from my graphics card, which I already had prior to anything else, I purchased the AMD Ryzen 7 2700X 3. 7GHz 8 Core AM4 Boxed Processor with Wraith Prism Cooler, MSI B450 TOMAHAWK AMD AM4 ATX Motherboard, Crucial Ballistix Sport LT 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3200 PC4-25600 CL16 Dual Channel Desktop Memory Kit, NZXT H510 Tempered Glass ATX Mid-Tower Computer Case, and although it won’t let me add more than three to my product review, I also purchased an Inland Professional 960 GB 3D NAND SATA III 6Gb/s 2.

5″ Internal SSD and a Seagate BarraCuda 2TB 7200RPM SATA III 6Gb/s 3. 5″ Internal Hard Drive. Beginning with Ryzen 7 2700X, I’ve done plenty of researching on the internet on different CPUs and their performance, however, I found that this CPU would be perfect for my first gaming setup.

With not having much knowledge on how to assemble a PC, I found this CPU and heatsink fan to be extremely easy to install. The heatsink fan comes preinstalled with thermal paste, so there is no need to put thermal past on the CPU.

The fan is quiet and also has RGB lighting which looks pretty neat through the tempered glass on my case. Moving on to the motherboard, the MSI Tomahawk B450 was very simple with it’s instructions on how to install everything needed.

It has (2) USB 2. 0 ports, (3) USB 3. 1 ports and (1) USB-C port, an excellent amount with everything that I have plugged in. It comes with a pretty cool looking IO shield and has a nice back lighting on the top right of it as well.

Upon turning the PC on for the first time, it booted the OS from my flashdrive automatically. After installing my OS, I found it easy to get into the BIOS screen to change my RAM speed to 3200. Moving on to the RAM I purchased, the Crucial Ballistix Sport LT 8GB works great and is compatible with the Ryzen 2700x and the MSI B450 motherboard.

Not too much to it, I purchased 2 RAM sticks with higher speeds so the processor will perform better. Before moving on to the case, I would like to talk about the Inland SSD and the Seagate HDD. Both work perfectly fine, after doing some research online, a lot of reviewers recommended Samsung for SSDs, however, I’ve been using this Inland SSD for about a month now and it’s been working fine.

I don’t know if I would be able to tell the difference if I got a different brand. Everything that I have saved to it, loads up very quickly. I use the SSD to boot my OS, and store the games and documents that I would like to load up quickly, and the Seagate HDD to store games that I don’t mind taking a while to load, along with anything else.

Finally, the NZXT H510 mid tower case, it’s great for first timers like me. It has plenty of cable routing holes, which makes it easier for wire management (also comes with zip ties). It comes with a USB-C, USB 3.

0 and Audio Jack on the front. I’m not exactly sure if the audio jack is for a standard 3. 5mm, cause when I try to plug my head set in, it seems like a tight fit and no audio comes through, however, I like to use the USB port for my headset anyway so it doesn’t bother me.

I found it extremely convenient that the case comes with (2) 2. 5” drive bays, I didn’t want to leave my SSD randomly inside the case, but I was able to mount it in the slots. It also appears to fit (3) 3.

5” HDDs, that will be useful if I decide I need more storage. There is a divider panel that separates the motherboard from the power supply, which I find quite useful because there are a lot of extra cables attached to my power supply due to not purchasing a modular power supply.

After pre placing most of the needed cables through the cable routing holes, everything was pretty easy to plug into the motherboard, the only exception was the CPU power cord from the power supply. There is a cable routing hole in the top left corner of the case, however, the space between the corner of the case and the corner of the mother board, made it slightly difficult to plug in.

Overall, my first PC build was successful, and I am extremely satisfied with all the parts I’ve purchased. 10/10 would recommend everything that I have reviewed today.

Wanted a cheap system to encode H265 on the CPU versus using a GPU or QuickSync since the quality using the CPU for encoding is the best from my limited testing so far. Since this processor has been out a few years there are quite a few used ones for sale so prices are fairly reasonable, motherboards are also fairly plentiful new or used giving a good range of choices from basic to full featured.

Since it has been a few years since I last updated my systems I built 6 new ones ranging from Ryzen 7 2700x/B450, Ryzen 7/X470, Ryzen 5 3600X/B450, i5-9600K/Z370, i7-9700K/Z390 and i5-10600K/Z490 to see which was the best at encoding based on time and it was an interesting process with all 6 falling within a few minutes of each other encoding the same video.

The Ryzen 7 2700X is middle of the pact but due to its lower overall cost makes a decent system for encoding video IMO.

Ryzen 2000-series processors are being overshadowed by the recent release of Ryzen 3000, but these older processors are still relevant and still a bargain. This eight-core Ryzen 7 2700X offers similar multi-threaded performance as the six-core Ryzen 5 2600X, but it comes with a better cooler and offers more threads.

It also costs less than the 3600X ($199 versus $250 at the time of this review), making it significantly more cost-effective than the 3600X. Zen+ offers the same Precision Boost Overdrive feature that allows the processor to overclock itself with the right motherboard, power delivery, and temperature.

My 2700X was able to reach 4. 35GHz without any effort, and that’s with the Wraith Cooler included in the packaging. The 2700X will handle DDR4-3200 dual-rank kits with ease, but using four Micron E-die Crucial Ballistics 16GB memory sticks was too much for the IMC to handle.

It will only stay stable with the memory frequency lowered to 3000MHz or increasing the SoC voltage to 1. 35V On the flip side, I was able to reduce the core voltage with an offset of -0. 275V and keep the all-core clock speeds at 3.

7GHz. For comparison’s sake, my Ryzen 7 1800X could only manage 3. 2GHz at those same core voltage offset. I bet the 2700X can stay stable at a -0. 325V offset and stay stable at 3. 4GHz, making it an ideal platform for a low-TDP home server.

If you’ve just upgraded from a 2700X to a 3700X or better, don’t toss out your old processor! Buy a cheap B450 motherboard, some cheap DDR4-2400 memory kit, and undervolt the 2700X for an overkill home lab, media server, or back-up server.

Better yet, go into the UEFI menu and set the cTDP to 25-35W for a hassle-free option to underclock your old Ryzen processor.

I recently purchased this, as in two weeks before Zen2 release. I had come in store for a deal that was running on the 1700x. The price of this unit, along with clocks/feature made it more than worthwhile.

I am using this in an X370 Taichi and it’s working quite well in most respects. It readily hits 4GHz on stock settings, multi core, and have seen up to 4. 2 on a single thread. Temps in normal usage have never exceeded 63C.

Even running stress tests I have not seen it above 70C using a Cooler Master 212. The only temperature issue I have noted is that the idle temp is constantly ranging from low 30’s to low 40’s. I have tried repaste and various fan curves.

It appears it is not an uncommon issue to this CPU. It’s gaming performance is top notch. I have it paired with a GTX1080 and it runs everything I throw at it very smoothly at 1080P. It devours workloads, does Adobe tasks with ease, open as much as you can humanly work with and it’s fine with it.

I have yet to find any workload or game that truly puts a “stress” on this short of a synthetic test. As to overclocking. for some reason I am completely unable to OC this chip. My motherboard VRM should be perfectly capable of doing so, but any manner of frequency or voltage change and it crashes to a 00 (check CPU) code.

I have had a similar experience with XMP. My RAM is ADATA 2666 which ran fine at 29xx on the previously installed 1700. It will not run outside XMP parameters, which are essentially no change as Auto already picks that up.

Just the same, and in spite of what might be considered shortcomings, it is a very nice improvement on the previously installed CPU and actually runs cooler on load than the 1700 in spite of it’s much higher TDP.

I would more than recommend that if you have been waiting, are on the fence about, or looking for a great value in a work or play machine that this Zen+ series just took the sweet spot. In spite of Zen2 performance gains, it’s hard to discount the money saved that can be put somewhere else.

I’m going to be honest, I was not expecting huge gains coming from a Ryzen 5600x. And you are probably wondering, why would you upgrade twice in a single product cycle? Well the short answer is that the availability of the 5900x when it first came out was.

lacking to say the least so I had to make due with the 5600x. At the time, the six-core processor was more than capable to fit my needs. However over the past year, my work habits have changed and thus I demanded more from my workstation.

Adding a second monitor was a great addition to help increase my multi-tasking capabilities. However this made me aware of the limitations of having fewer cores in my system. So I decided to go for this beast of a cpu, doubling the number of cores in my system.

I kept my expectations in check of course, double the cores does not mean “doubling performance”. And to be quite frank, in terms of raw performance, it’s actually not that much quicker in running normal tasks.

that is, at least on paper. Of course, if you run programs that can utilize all the performance, then yes it will be significantly faster. But I do not run such programs for my workload, just a heavy multi-tasker.

To get to my point, this upgrade allowed me to experience something very different when it comes to “user experience”. It isn’t a massive jump in performance in gaming or running normal day to day applications.

But it is that buttery smooth experience that you cannot explain on paper, nor run any test programs to measure a noticeable gain. And I think far too many times, we come to compare stats on paper without considering the “user experience”.

Many reviews on this cpu come to the conclusion that it is not that much quicker in gaming when compared to its little brother, the 5600x. But I guarantee you, that 5600x will have the occasional micro-stutters, or it takes a few extra seconds to install a program.

Basically, my point is that most people will not need this level of performance and if you are strictly on a budget, a 5600x is your best bet. For example, imagine owning a normal, economic car vs. a high end luxury car.

Both will get you from point A to point B. I’d even go as far to say that they’ll probably get you there in similar times. In terms of transportation, they both will do the job. However, the luxury car will just do it in comfort, and it’s just nice to be in one isn’t it.

Similarly, the 5900x is that luxury bracket, the user experience is what you get with 12 cores :).

Went from a 2700x to this. For what I do with a PC the 2700x was sufficient but I did have an Asus Tuf x570 motherboard so I figured get one of the best chips offered for the board. Tasks do seem zippier, and Cyberpunk is smoother.

I did crash on Cyberpunk with the 2700x randomly, but have yet to have one happen with the 5900x. It doesn’t run as cool as the 2700x but surprisingly its not that much warmer. Only difference is chips in my setup, I am still using the same 3200 mhz memory.

I have a noctua chromax dh15 and phanteks p500a case. The 2700x would max out at 60 and idle 27-30 degrees celsius. Doing the same tests the next day in about the same ambient room temp the 5900x idles aaround 29-33 and has maxed at 67 degrees celsius.

While playing Cyberpunk it sits around 60. Most cores idle at 3600mhz, single core gets up to 4950, all load synthetic around 4500 and gaming they will hit all core 4750. That is with popping it in and no tweaks.

I figured to bite the bullet while I had gift cards and points. Even before the shortage nice cpus on the used market still sold for a decent price, so I went ahead and grabbed one before AMD stops this line and goes with the next gen.

I actually bought this as an open box sale. The local Micro Center I went to was very helpful in helping me find one. After cleaning off the thermal paste and reapplying a fresh layer, installing the CPU during my build process was no problem.

In terms of performance, I am very happy with the overall power of a 2nd gen AMD CPU. I have it paired with a Radeon RX570 GPU from ASRock and I’m able to play many modern games at 60-80 fps and even sports titles at more than 100 fps.

I play a lot of Overwatch and I am able to play it at around 200fps at High settings, in the 100s at Ultra settings. The stock cooler also does a good job at keeping the CPU cool for the most part (I’m using 3 case fans for positive and negative intake), but I do plan to get a better cooling system for future overclocking.

So this CPU is definitely a great choice for anyone making their first and/or an entry-level PC build for gaming or other CPU-heavy tasks. Details of my build: AMD R5 2600 with stock cooler, ASRock Radeon RX570, Aorus/Gigabyte B450M mATX MOBO, GEIL Evo Potenza DDR4-3200 16GB RAM.

Haven’t been so excited to use AMD processors in a long time. These new Ryzen processors are fantastic with good performance and core count for typical daily use no overclocking needed. Originally I wanted total 8 cores 16 threads but the price point was too good to ignore for the Ryzen 5 2600 at the time and now with the 3000 series available the price drop makes this processor an amazing deal.

I didn’t understand the base vs. boost clocks at first so note that the boost is not an all core boost. Turn off “Cool n Quiet” in your BIOS/UEFI when you want an all core boost of 3. 7GHz. Otherwise keep “Cool n Quiet” on and use the Windows 10 power plan “AMD Ryzen Balanced” (hint: set minimum processor state to 20%) and you can confirm with Ryzen Master that the CPU is boosting 3.

9GHz between cores when needed. ASRock X470 Master SLI/AC (rev1. 02, BIOS/UEFI version P3. 30) Ryzen 5 2600 6 core (12 thread) 3. 4GHz (3. 9MHz max boost) Corsair Vengeance RGB 32GB (2×8) CMW32GX4M2C3200C16 (ver 4.

32) Corsair Hydro Series H100i Pro (full load 52c-fans-quiet/45c-fans-extreme at 18c ambient) Samsung 970 EVO M. 2 2280 500GB PCIe Gen3x4 NVMe Antec 900 Case (original, modded for top mounting H100i Pro) w/ Corsair CX750M Corsair LL Series 120mm RGB PWM FANS with Lighting Node Pro XFX RX 560 4GB GDDR5.