20 Best Lightweight Camera For Hiking (2023 Updated)

This camera was so much more than I expected. My main kit is a Nikon Z6 with several of the incredible Z-mount lenses. But it’s a heavyweight for street photography and the times I need to travel light.

For that purpose, I had a Canon EOS M6, which was a capable APS-C format camera, but it wasn’t weather-sealed, required a separate electronic viewfinder that was kind of a pain to use, and had a noticeable shutter lag.

Enter the Z50. This camera was clearly targeted at entry level consumers looking for a Z-mount, mirrorless camera. It turns out that the Z50 is really a lightweight Z6 with nearly identical features and capabilities, including weather sealing – a must for me, especially for street photography and travel.

The biggest difference is the APS-C sensor. Just for grins, I weighed the Z50 and the Z6 with equivalent lenses (in terms of field-of-view). The Z50 with the 16-50 mm kit lens was 1 lb 6 oz, while the Z6 with a 24 – 70 mm kit lens was slightly over 3 lbs.

Even though the Z50 was less than half the weight of its larger sibling, the build quality is excellent and the camera and lens are both solid. The kit lens also turned out to be really good. The light weight and compact size of the Z50 makes it perfect for the kind of photography I want to do with this camera.

I was a little concerned about the 20 MP resolution, which is slightly less than the Canon EOS M6, but the images have been fantastic. Even RAW images look great right out of the camera. I couldn’t be happier with this little camera, and as usual, B&H was great to work with.

I bought this a bit before lockdown for two purposes: trips abroad when I am traveling light, and photos of a grandchild, taking advantage of its autofocus capability. It is good as it is claimed to be for both of those purposes but lockdown put an end to travel, and I did not get to see the grandchild for over a year, so the camera was used much less than I expected.

One feature I do not like is the way the viewfinder works. To hold a camera steady, I like to hold it firmly against my head (or glasses) but if you do that with this camera, it pushes the viewfinder in a little, so you cannot see through it properly.

When the image looks blurred in the viewfinder, you have to hold it a bit further away from your face, and hence less firmly. As a result, I am less confident about holding this camera steady than I am about holding a more traditional camera with a rigid viewfinder.

I also find I miss having more controls (I am spoiled by having a Sony A7R3). I have the dial round the lens set to adjust the exposure up or down as needed, which is very convenient, but ideally I would like it to be easier to adjust the aperture without changing the exposure.

On the other hand, depth of field is so great, aperture is less of an issue than on a larger format camera. I would also like an easier way to move the focus point around the screen, so as a result, I leave it in Wide mode more than I would like.

But despite these minor niggles, the camera does what it is designed to do extremely well and so long as you understand the inevitable limitations of such a tiny camera, I would certainly recommend it.

I rarely use video so cannot comment on the sound quality.

Upgrded from the Mk4 which I loved and still use as it takes great still pictures. The 4k and HD video is great but no mic input makes getting good sound a bit more complicated This version is better for my needs in many ways.

I shoot a lot of 4k wildlife video and this little camera does a quite amazing job. I have a Sony fdr-ax100e and an fdr-ax53 4k camcorders and this camera does the job equally well and better than those two bigger cams.

The 200mm lens is what swung it for me and having a mic input. You can get a good used one for about half the retail price now on ebay if you are patient and keep a watch for a good one. That makes it a real bargain in my book.

I dont find the lack of a ND filter a problem. My one has a 52mm filter adaptor fitted and it lets me use a variable ND filter when required. I use a polarizing filter often too so adding that adaptor was a must.

Another must is to buy one of those rubber add on grips! The body is small and quite slick and adding that grip makes all the difference. The menu is complicated (more so than my Mk4 but over time if you sit and play around with it regularly, you soon get the hang of it and then becomes intuitive.

After not owning anything other than a iPhone for shooting photos, I finally decided to purchase a good travel camera, Sony’s RX100M7. The price was right on this one, since it was $200 less than anywhere else.

I am really enjoying this thing although there is a lot to learn to really get the most out of it, and I continue to look at YouTube videos to help with that. The camera does not come with a printed manual, a problem since it requires web access to learn how to use it.

You can download a document with web links to different features and usage, but that’s not ideal when you’re out traveling and have no access. So read and watch everything in preparation for using this thing.

You can keep the Sony RX100M7 in full Auto mode if you want, although I recommend a less expensive camera if that is your end goal. This camera can do all sorts of neat things if you know the fine points of its features, and I recommend that you do.

It takes nice steady videos, can be used for Vlogging although you would need an external microphone and a bracket to affix it to since the camera does not have a spot for an external mic. So that’s a negative, but one of the few for a camera in this class.

Other negatives include a very complex menu system of all the features and options, and the back video display screen only allows for very basic touch-sensor use, none of which are related to menus. The touch screen is used mostly for setting a focus point when you are taking a photograph, so extremely limited use.

Also, the menu’s built-in Help features are very basic. Another negative is the battery life. Plan on purchasing an additional battery or two and an external charger if you will be shooting a lot during the day.

Also, the photos and/or videos can get quite large depending on which settings you use, so have a fast, large SD or compatible memory card (or two or three!) if you know you’ll be taking a lot of photos/videos during any day of use.

Finally, here’s what else you’ll probably need to be happy with your RX100M7 — a screen protector for the rear video screen, a carry case of some sort to house the camera when not in use, along with its batteries, extra SD card, charge cable, etc.

You might buy a pricey video gimbal if you do a ton of video work and want extreme steadiness, as well as a tripod to use for night photos, action, etc. That’s a start, anyway. Good luck with your new RX100M7 camera, it’s a good one if these conditions fit your profile!.

This camera is NOT perfect, but that is expectable for an entry-level mirrorless camera. What I DISLIKE about the camera: 8-bit 4:2:0 color: colors look great right out of the camera, but they fall apart with intense color grading.

Specifically, this camera does have slog-2 and slog-3 color profiles BUT they are practically unusable because the bit depth isn’t sufficient enough to prevent banding in the sky, for example, when using these more aggressive log formats.

(This is fixed in the newer generation of the camera, the Sony Alpha a7 IV, which notably costs $500 more. ) Rolling shutter performance: this camera does not have the best rolling shutter performance; rapid side-to-side movements cause noticeable rolling shutter distortion.

(However, this isn’t noticeable when doing filming without rapid horizontal movement. Only really shows up when filming from a fast-moving vehicle or aggressively jerking/panning the camera horizontally.

) What I LOVE about the camera: EXTREMELY sharp 4K footage. The footage is oversampled from 6K without binning (it scales the image down rather than removing rows/columns of pixel which retains more of the sharpness of the 6K footage.

) Even though I can’t use log color profiles because of the not-so-great color bit depth, I can love using the built-in less aggressive cinematic color profiles such as cine2 which looks amazing right out of the camera or with zero to minimal color grading.

This is a personal preference, but I am in love with the body design of the camera. The metal body design of the Sony Alpha series cameras makes them so much more visually appealing than their competitors.

I use this camera for making low-budget indie-type films, and it has exceeded my expectations for what I expect a $2000 camera to be able to do. In conclusion, this camera is amazing! (I purchased it in September 2021, and I wish I would have waited a bit longer before purchasing it, as I would have rather paid the extra $500 for the newer generation, the Sony Alpha a7 IV, which released a month after I bought the a7 III.

I was just unfortunate with the timing of the purchase, and this isn’t anything against the camera itself. ) Note about the kit lens: The 28-70mm f/3. 5-5. 6 kit lens is a great starting-point for only $200, but if you want better picture quality, you will probably end up selling it and looking for a nicer lens! I’ve spent weeks researching which lenses to buy, and here are some notable discoveries I’ve made.

(I HIGHLY recommend you take some time to watch some reviews though to make sure these lenses are what you’re looking for. REMEMBER TO BUY FULL-FRAME LENSES NOT APS-C CROP SENSOR LENSES. ) My favorite lens to use with this camera: Sony Zeiss 55mm f/1.

8: PROS: – considered by many to be the sharpest Sony lens ever – super compact and light-weight, perfect for gimbal shooting – aperture opens up wide and lets in about 4x more light than the kit lens at the widest aperture, so it’s great for low light filming and has more intense background blur – 55mm focal length on a full-frame sensor is very similar to what the human eye naturally sees.

There exists a saying, nifty fifty, referring to how useful the 50mm focal length is, and 55mm is barely any different from that; if anything, I prefer the slightly more compressed look; it makes it better for portraits, too.

it also zooms in to about an 83mm lens when using the APS-C/Super 35mm crop mode feature on the camera, which is even better for portraits, but you do lose a bit of image resolution. – is a Sony native lens so the autofocus is amazingly fast CONS: – is not a zoom lens – no optical image stabilization (OSS) – not weather sealed – expensive (about $1000 brand new but you can buy it for around $600-650 used, like new).

I got this model as an upgrade from the original A7. Focus is significantly faster, eye tracking is very accurate defaulting to face tracking if eye is not detectable. Colour accuracy is the same as the rest of Sony cameras I’ve used, more or less, as I need to do some corrections as usual in Lightroom.

Video is significantly better, 4k capability, an upgrade from 1080p on my previous one. As it is E-mount it can use all my previous lenses and adaptors. Lightweight and more compact than other it is perfect for travels.

Another convenient factor is the fact that it has 2 SD card slots. Usb-c makes transfer significantly faster. Connection to mobile through app is very convenient to transfer photos, edit and share immediately.

Can be used as webcam and charged at the same time if one is interested in live streaming or video content creation. Doesn’t overheat while used for extended amount of time: 1+h. If you are familiar with other Sony cameras then the menu is the same, no ore complicated or better than before.

The new Canon R10 is a fantastic entry level camera based on their newest mirrorless technologies. I’ve been an avid photographer for many years, shooting various systems and sensor sizes. With this newest entry they’ve made a lightweight, accessible, quite capable camera at an affordable price range that I think most users will really love.

Build quality is very good – it’s a fair amount of plastic, but it feels good in the hand and durable, and this helps with the weight. Its overall size is nice too, not quite as bulky as a lot of its full frame equivalents.

Button layout and access is pretty common and easy to work with, no real complaints there. They’ve kept these pretty consistent over all their line which is nice to see instead of experimenting or placing things in odd locations.

Canon’s menu system is great – it’s super clear, especially being a user of other systems, it’s not confusing and laid out well. Having a touch flip out screen that is fully articulating, is great and should be a must on most cameras these days.

It’s responsive and clear. The viewfinder is good, not mind blowing, but perfectly adequate for most people’s needs. What is nice to see is the inclusion of some of the higher end model features here – the focus system and number of focus points, animal/human eye detection 10-bit 4:2:2 4k 60fps (at a crop, but still this is great).

Historically you would see some of these things reserved for something higher up than an entry level, so it’s great Canon is including these. Also surprising is the shot frame rate – this camera actually makes for a pretty decent sports or wildlife camera – even with a mechanical shutter (so you avoid any rolling shutter) – 15fps is pretty impressive.

The kit lens it comes with is not outstanding but they never are, that’s why it’s a kit lens. For your average person just getting into a mirrorless it will work fine. There’s a limited number of native APS-C lenses out for this camera (that will change soon over the next year I’m sure), but you can spend minimally and get an adapter and use any of Canon’s vast lens lineup, so once you want to use higher quality lenses, you have a ton of options.

Overall I’d say this is an outstanding bargain and great for those just getting into photography. It’s pretty versatile, light, easy to use, and expandable as you start learning. I plan to teach the family how to use it and it will be our go to rig for events and fun.

Cannon R10 Review For initial context, I come from another entry level DSLR (Nikon 5300) with 50mm 1. 3f, 18-55mm 3. 5-5. 6f, and 70-300mm 4. 5-6. 3f lenses. After the first shoot, the mirrorless and more modern image processing system was immediately attractive for someone who comes from an older camera.

I focused on the 4k video capabilities because 4k at 60fps and 1080 120fps was the most enticing features for me who comes from a camera that lacks in video. Note on 4k at 60fps and 1080 120fps is that it is a cropped sensor and has to be specifically selected in the manual video mode.

The video that came out was very crisp and has good dynamic range. However, the image stabilization was little if none. I did notice that shooting in 4k 60fps resulted in Adobe Premiere Pro’s warp stabilizer doing a good job at smoothing the video.

Another potential benefit (depending on your use case) is the autofocus (AF). When in AF mode, the R10 was very fast and accurate, however, pulling focus in AF mode was near impossible. Shortly into the shoot, I shifted into manual focus and enjoyed this much more.

After exploring the impressive video capabilities of the camera, I tried the photo potential. I immediately noticed that the picture response time was lackluster at best. Even at a shutter speed of 1/1000, the time from pressing the shutter button to the camera capturing the picture feels sluggish.

Based on my initial testing, I would not recommend for sports photography. After getting used to these nuances, I really enjoyed the experience. The kit lens was crisp and had a wide variety of focal lengths, however, I would want to invest into a prime lens that has a much better f-stop (aperture).

The Sony RX100 series really are brilliant. It is a truly pocketable camera with a viewfinder that produces fantastic images. However I’ve given it one star. This is my third RX100 in nine years – since 2013.

I’ve previously had an RX100 III and an RX100 VA. Both broke with what seem to me to be electrical faults, one in the sensor and one in the flash/viewfinder. The VA, which I looked after really carefully, lasted less than three years.

It is currently at Sony for investigation but I don’t expect much from them. Bizarrely the original RX 100 III, whose sensor failed, has lived in a box without it’s battery whilst I had the VA. I recently took it out to send to Sony to look at as I was sending the VA anyway, but it now works fine again.

Capacitance? I’d already bought the replacement Mk III when I realised this, and to be honest I expect if I start to use the original Mk III in anger then, having already failed catastrophically once, it will fail again.

By way of comparison, the Canon EOS 20D and Panasonic LX5 I used from the 2005 to 2013 still work fine. Very reluctantly I’ve bought another RX100 III, as it is relatively cheap. I couldn’t find another product that fitted my requirements quite so well, although in future it is quite likely I will switch to a smaller Fuji mirrorless.

I expect this new Mk III will break in two – three years. I wouldn’t bet money on it failing in the warranty period, but I would bet money it will fail within three years. I’m viewing the £469 outlay as a subscription – in order to have a camera that meets my needs for two years I have to pay a bit less than my Netflix and Disney+ subscriptions, and anything else is a bonus.

However I find it pretty disgraceful that I am forced to think about thinks like that – not least from the waste in terms of resources and environment. I won’t ever be buying any other Sony cameras ever again.

Neither will I replace my long-lasting Sony TV with another TV from them. Or anything else electronic from Sony. I’m so fed up with this experience that the Sony brand is dirt to me.

I hate trying to take pictures by squinting at a display panel on the back of a camera. I want to look through a viewfinder. I bought this for the EVF (electronic viewfinder). I’d not used one before and was unsure what to expect.

It is superb, very bright and I can easily use it and see the full picture with my glasses on. The dioptre adjustment has a great range, I think +3 to -4 and, even though my eye is -5. 5, I can use the EVF without specs.

Image quality is exceptional and makes my much older Fujifilm F200EXR compact look very inferior. It’s good enough that I’m selling my DSLR. The camera can be used very simply like any other compact with everything on auto and composing in the rear panel, or you can really customise how it works and use it like it’s a tiny SLR or old Leica.

The assisted manual focus is ideal. You can shoot raw or jpeg or both. The Sony raw format is widely supported so you can use any raw converter out there very successfully. I’m really impressed with this camera, it’s not cheap but it is worth every penny.

This is a hard one for me to rate. I bought this as a small camera I could use tightly packed into motorcycle bags for our trip to Sturgis 2020 (also taking my camera bag with the Nikon D7500) The plus: The images are beautifully bright and vivid (Sony does not disappoint here).

The menu was simple enough for a learn on the go kind of thing (except pairing, we will get to that) AND it let’s you shoot in RAW (almost unheard of in a point n shoot)! It also took beautiful selfies as well as panoramic shots! The negatives and why I decided to return the camera: Bluetooth for me was a MUST but Sonys playmemories mobile/imaging edge mobile app is absolutely impossible and infuriating to link.

After reading for a few hours on my vacation and several attempts, I gave up. It’s a deal breaker for me. Apps fault, not camera I’m sure. The zoom leaves a lot to be desired especially if shooting in sport/action.

You have to be in the mist of action for a shot and for motorcycle stunt shows, not a safe place to be. The camera shutting down after jumping from screen or eye piece surprisingly annoyed me, I feel like I missed a lot in-between.

The last bit of disappointment I have regarding this purchase was the leather case I bought to protect it. There is a rubber one on Amazon but with the pop out eye piece it makes for a hard fit. The case said it could be used with a tripod (partially true) you can screw the unbuttoned case to a tripod but you can not put a quick release plate on it, you can’t unbutton the case then, quite ridiculous design.

Again, not the cameras fault but for a pricey little camera I’d prefer to have some protection available. I sadly returned both the camera and case.

The camera is supplied with two batteries both of which I charged on purchase to full power. Both batteries discharge in camera despite the camera not being turned on. This leads to some very, very frustrating moments whereby the battery is exhausted within 10 to 15 minutes of turning on.

I’ve taken to carrying a power a pack and lead to keep the camera alive as I walk around. To compound matters the batteries cost a king’s ransom and are not available anywhere in the world now. The camera menu is the same as any Alpha Sony camera, which for me is great as I’m a Sony Alpha 7R2 user, and that is the only plus I can say in favour of this camera.

I wish I had bought the cheaper GoPro equivalent. Yes, the Sony has the largest sensor of any action camera. As it sand it’s the most expensive small brick in the world.

WHY BUY THIS: (1) You want a sharp 4K image that can look good cropped up to 200% in post, (2) You want better low-light video, (3) You want high-end DSLR level controls on image. (4) Surprisingly good in-body mics (great as back-up audio).

WHY BUY A GOPRO: (1) You want stable hand-held video, without thinking about it. (2) You don’t optimize camera settings for your shooting conditions. (3) You either don’t care about audio (i. e. , hobby/vacation use), or have other gear for your audio (GoPro audio is abysmal).

WHY NOT TO RUN FROM THE RX0ii: (1) Heat shutdown — totally fixable: see below. (2) Fixed focus — know your tool & use it right (see below). (3) Sony Menus. Yeah, I don’t love them, but it took me maybe 1-2 hours to set up mine for my needs (custom buttons & My Menu), and I’m fine with it now.

HEAT TIP 1: To avoid high-temperature shutdowns: MENU toolbox (page 1) Auto Power OFF Temp (bottom option of this page) switch from default Standard to High. This creates a nag at power-on, telling you OMG, use a tripod, don’t hand-hold, to avoid thermal burns! In my experience, this is CYA lawyer-talk.

My RX0ii’s get quite warm, but never approach the pain threshold (~150°F) for the camera body surface, so no thermal burn risk. HEAT TIP 2: If you use your RX0ii like I do — static, mounted — then power them via an external USB battery.

This puts all the heat generated within the battery _outside_ the RX0ii. (Note: ANY battery powering ANYthing generates heat. ) (Anker’s Astro E1 5200mAh is nice. ) Using Tips 1 & 2, I’ve done multiple 3-hour shoots (each as a single continuous shoot, with no pauses), and had zero shutdowns.

HEAT TIP 3: For a little extra insurance, you can extend the rear LCD away from the camera body. I’ve not found this to be necessary, but in warmer environments, the reduced physical mass for heat to have to travel through, will help.

(I’ve even read from someone who takes the battery out and leaves the battery door open. Do-able, sure, but I haven’t needed to. ) WHY I USE RX0ii: These replaced GoPro(Hero5Black) / Canon Vixia HF-R800 / Panasonic TM700 as static (unmanned) B-cameras, in theater and orchestra, intended to give me interesting angles to mix in in post.

Those prior cameras all had less image info to work with, due to smaller sensors, &/or throttling down to 1080. So their footage was virtually unzoomable in post, badly restricting my post-shoot recomposing options.

The GoPro’s 4K is in-name-only. Sure, it records in a 4K codec, but pulls from optics/sensor that in my lab testing and in project use delivers nothing close to 4K of visual info. From my shoots to date, I am delighted with the RX0ii’s image quality, giving me 4K that is very usable for zooming and recomposing at the edit stage.

The larger sensor really delivers. Successful craftsfolk know their tools, and use them right. In that sense, there are two things the RX0ii user has to attend to. The first is focus. Note that GoPros have fixed near-finite focus — not auto-focus.

So action-cam users are spoiled on never having to think about focus. GoPros achieve this by having minuscule sensors, for which (along with the crazy wide-angle focal length) the optical physics dictate an insanely long depth of field.

But, the RX0ii has a much larger sensor, which vastly improves both capturable visual information density and low light performance, but gives up this training-wheel luxury of infinite DoF. (Also note: this does not mean GoPro image is sharp! It isn’t.

) So, you have to practice with setting focus in the RX0ii, and since it does not continuously adjust focus, you need to know when to manually reset it. Now, don’t run from the RX0ii on that basis! Continuous AF has pros and cons, and giving up C-AF sheds Both.

So: no focus tracking, sure, but also no focus-hunting (which most/all C-AF cameras suffer from). And while the RX0ii DoF is not infinite, it’s still quite long when the focus target is more than arm’s-length away.

For example, setting the RX0ii focus at 3m gets you usably sharp focus from ~1. 5m to infinity. The second thing a smart user manages is ISO. For evenly-lit scenes, auto-ISO is usually fine. But for spot-lit scenes, auto-ISO is — for EVERY camera I’ve tried it in –a kiss of death; they go EV-hunting, in this distracting random walk, that takes hours in post to stabilize using keyframes.

My solution, is to fix ISO to one value, and just reconcile myself to only mixing that footage into my final video, which fell within a recoverable EV band. This bears repeating: this issue is universal, and not unique to the RX0ii.

Some RX0ii reviews dislike the image stabilization. Undoubtedly, GoPro Hero7 has the most stabilized image for zero user effort. (A Canon XC15 achieves similar — in HD mode using both digital & optical IS — but is much larger, and is not trail-hardened.

) So if IS is critical for you, and you don’t mind the poorer image or in-codec-only 4K, buy a GoPro. I have zero need for motion stabilization. My RX0ii’s sit still in stands the entire shoot. From the RX0ii video reviews I’ve seen in handheld use, the digital stabilization contributes, but is not enough: if you want smooth shots, you need a gimbal or some cheaper alternative like Roxant’s balancers.

I decided go with the newer technology of mirrorless and love this camera so much. I really enjoy the electric viewfinder! All settings (ISO, shutter speed, and F stop) all show up in real life changes in light within the view finder.

You can set this camera to beep when you shoot, if that’s your thing, I have the beep off. It makes a quiet shutter noise that is similar to my old DSLR, that I prefer most of the time. However in instances where I want to be more discrete, there is a silent shooting mode where there is no beep or shutter noise.

just a tiny motor noise which is barely audible. Works fantastic when I’m shooting photos of birds that can be very easy to startle. All the button settings and dials on the camera can be customized to how you shoot.

The pop up menus can be customized for the other settings you use most. It’s a good weight, much lighter than my DSLR and smaller. yet it feels great in the hands and is balanced well. I don’t use the LCD much but it works great and is touchscreen so you can use it to focus or change your settings at will and it also shows the changes in light.

Another option I enjoy is the focus peaking. It has multiple colors and strength settings. The only issue I see is that its auto focus can sometimes be a little wonky. It works excellent on people, and there is a pet option that does excellent on cats and dogs.

However, birds and more fidgety animals can be a bit trickier. normally I turn it to manual focus and still get excellent results, but I wanted to give this a fair review. It is a little harder if you are used to shooting with autofocus, sometimes it’s auto focus is focusing more on the beak than the eyes, especially trying to track animals.

I almost exclusively shoot manual so for me it’s not a big issue.

The Fuji X100V is awesome. The only camera I would put above it, is purely for sentimental reasons (my D700, I’ve had it since 2009: my first real camera). I like to shoot B&W a lot and this puts out great images.

I do like the straight out of camera JPGs and recipes, but I still shoot RAW + JPG for options. I know people say that Fuji RAW files aren’t great to work with in lightroom, but I have no issues with them.

Another common complaint that people have, that I have had no issues with is the Fuji app to transfer files and do firmware updates. FOR ME, it works basically everytime. Yes there is a specific order that you have to go through to connect the camera to the phone, but once you learn that order it works and is simple.

I love 35mm, but I have the wide angle adapter and that is great also. It is pocketable, but if it was any larger it probably wouldn’t fit in regular pants pockets. It fits in jacket pockets easily. If you want a no show camera to fit in your front pocket, this might not be the camera, but if you don’t mind a bit of a bump it still is good.

This camera is with me at least 75% of the time. I own a lot of cameras, and even if I am using a larger DSLR or mirrorless. I am very likely to have this or my other small camera on me (I also own a GRIII).

And I really like what I get from the X100V. My only regret is that I got the all black version and not the silver version, but I can absolutely live with it. I hope this new Fuji sensor (review written Apr 22′) gets an X100 variant in 2023.

X100Vi body with a 40mp sensor, take my money now.

I don’t get why many Youtubers put so much hate on this capable little camera. I use this camera mainly for traveling and taking B-Roll shots for my internship Job. It is more than capable to take top notch video and photos.

If you want to know the video limit, shooting in 4k(No Crop) is 10 mins. 1080p 60fps is 20 mins, 1080p 30fps is 30 mins. Overall, it is more than enough to have it as professional B-Roll Shot camera because of it’s lightweight size and stabilization(recommend standard, High will crop your image).

Panasonic Lumix’s Color’s are phenomenal, but they only fall short when it comes to low light performance. I mean it is expected, because the small sensor(MFT). If you want to still shoot it in low light without having any noise, you would have to purchase a lens that has 2.

0 or below aperture to give you the extra bit of light. I recommend the 25mm 1. 7 lens, it cost as low $150 that has good AF. The AF in this camera is good, not great nor amazing. But it is enough to get by.

Panasonic and Olympus has endless of lens options that are great quality! Price range is from $100 and up. Plus, the focal length is 2X , because of it’s small sensor. For an Example, a 25mm for a MFT will considered to be 50mm.

A nice little portrait lens. It is also have a built in mic port which most camera in this price range will not have one. Since, I’m a student from my university, I got this camera for $536 plus tax; which it is steel considering what it can do for a small compact camera.

Now, if you were planning to use it as your main camera, then I recommend to look else where. This camera good for people who wants it as your B camera or want it to move from smartphone to the camera world.

This camera grows with you as you learn about Photography/Cinemaphotography.

For a specific type of person. I’m reviewing this as a semi-pro/hobby mainly still photographer with a growing interest in video. So as I am not using this system to its fullest potential yet that is something to bear in mind.

And also my critiques on the firmware are that of a photographers perspective. With that out of the way, I find this to be a very capable camera. And I will just say it straight away, if you want a travel kit, with interchangeable lenses, video/photo that make for an easy workflow when you sit down to edit, especially if you are on the go, this is the best system for you.

If you want anything else specifically, look elsewhere. Since it is so new none of the photo editing software recognizes the raw files yet and I haven’t bothered to convert them to do major editing. That said I’ve worked with Panasonic raw files before from this sensor and they are extremely flexible.

But the JPEGs are more than enough for posting most places anyways. Just a bit of cropping and maybe a border and I’m finished. Very easy and fast workflow. I almost never even have to properly align the horizon since the cameras built in level in the VF works amazingly well.

The EVF is fantastic. Big and bright never hard to see it. The flip screen is a place of contention for some but as a stills photographer I prefer it to a tilt screen. If you work primarily in extreme low light conditions, look to full frame.

That does not include astrophotographers, as there are many togs shooting the stars on every kind of sensor. It’s just about knowing your system. When I say low light I mean moving subjects. 4K photo mode is definitely useful, I would definitely recommend it if you have very active pets.

I have used many of my other four thirds lenses on this system and it performs just as well as the kit. If you are on a budget consider looking at an adapter plus some four thirds vintage lenses. In conclusion, get this if you want portability and ease of use.

I bought this to replace my TG-860 which I loved. Most of my comments are comparing the older model with the TG-6. It has more complex features but is also missing some significant features I loved on the TG-860.

I loved the flip screen on the TG-860, which allowed me to take selfies, however the screen stopped working and Olympus no longer repairs and no one else does. I didn’t want to buy another TG-860 because costing about the same as the TG-6, I knew it could not ever be repaired.

The TG-860 had a button on the camera face that let you set for a special function like video. The TG-6 does not. This camera is heavier than the TG-860 and has less range in the telephoto and wide angle.

The macro (microscope) has three menu items such as photo stacking to choose which takes longer when trying to capture a subject. The choice I use most allows you to zoom and you must tab thru all the others first.

Most of the choices suggest a tripod. I went to these tough cameras for serious hiking and I don’t want to carry a tripod, nor do I have the time to set it up. I have a better camera for that. The buttons on the TG-6 are so tiny.

I am such a diminutive person, I can’t imagine some people with large fingers using it. Furthermore, there are two separate doors, one for the battery and card and another for the charging and connecting.

The TG-860 had one door for all. Each door has two levers to push, which is a safety feature to keep it watertight. It’s not foolproof because it’s possible to close the door and have one open. In general the menus are not user friendly, that is dummy proof.

The one feature I really love on the TG-6 is what the manual calls the control dial. In the program mode, you can adjust how much light is coming in to the lens much like an old single lens reflex. If you want a lot of bells and whistles and are kind of a techy, you might not find all these things so challenging.

The TG-860 was easier to operate. One dial gave you all the choices without necessitating going through so many menus.

It’s not often that I revisit a product in a review, but I’ve had this for a year and a half, and I’m still learning new things about it when I use it. Typically I use it to help me meter light since most of my cameras don’t have light meters, and it’s still doing that job well.

Originally I did not get it to take photos with it, but one month last year four months into owning it, I decided to try to do all my personal work with it for a month. There are an amazing number of features in this camera.

After watching Robin Wong’s videos on his OM cameras, I found that I could apply many of this tips and tricks to this camera. It retains a surprising number of the features and controls offered on the OM bodies including access to the diagnostic pages.

All of these features and controls help to customize your camera and give you more artistic control. I ended up turning off the noise filter (Menu C) since I found that I liked the look better. High ISO shooting on this body (ISO 400 and up) produces some noise, but in this body it very much looks like film grain and chroma noise is incredibly well controlled.

Because of the look it gives at higher ISO, I’ve used this camera with higher ISOs intentionally just to get the grain on particular images. You also get sharper images without the noise filter at higher ISOs since the noise filter smooths out detail.

I’ve also been using it with manual focus almost exclusively, and the lens has incredibly high resolution close up. You can see all the hairs on plants and other incredibly fine details. To speed focus, I use the up and down buttons on the D-pad, and then I fine tune it using the control dial.

Due to the larger depth of field with this lens, I found that the focus peaking was not as helpful as having magnification. Because of this, I use magnification as my focusing aid. When you have this set, every time you turn the control dial or one of the up or down buttons on the D-pad to focus, it pops up a magnifier so you can make critical focus adjustments.

One other thing I discovered is that there are two focus ranges, the standard focusing range, and the close/macro focusing range. In the macro focusing range, you can reach a magnification ratio of 1:0.

77 which is larger than life size on the sensor when you are on the 18mm focal length (the telephoto end of the lens). This is without the aid of any digital teleconverters or other tricks–this is the full optical magnification of the lens.

Your working distance at this range is basically nil, so you are right up to whatever it is you are working on. Another interesting thing is up close, the lens appears to have a flat field which is what you’d expect from a dedicated macro.

You don’t get the field curvature that you’d generally expect from most standard lenses. Just to give you an idea of the kind of magnifications this lens gets and where: In the normal focusing range, your magnifications ratios are 1:21 at the 4.

5 mm end and 1:5. 25 at the 18 mm end. In the close focus range, your magnification ratios are 1:17 at the 4. 5 mm end and 1:0. 77 at the 18 mm end. (Make note that you cannot focus as closely on the 4.

5 mm end of the lens compared to the 18mm end. This is why the magnification ratio on the 4. 5 mm end at close focusing range is what it is). In the close focusing range, the lens does takes a while to rack out all the way to the closest focusing distance.

I usually do macro with my Nikon bodies, and I have Nikon bellows and Micro Nikkors, but having these kinds of capabilities with a small and waterproof camera was something. I have used the close up capabilities of this camera, and I’ve made prints, printed books, and even used them as my desktop background on my monitors and no one seems to have figured out that they were not from one of my full frame (or miniature format) Nikon bodies (at close range, your depth of field is quite shallow anyhow).

This is quite an accomplishment for such a small, weatherproof camera with a subminiature format sensor. For some reason or another, Olympus does not list out many of the features of the lens on its US site, but on the Asian site, it lists the lens as having 9 elements in 7 groups.

There is 1 Dual Super Aspherical element (both surfaces on this one element are aspherical), 3 aspherical elements, and 1 high refractive index and dispersion (HR/HD) element. It appears well corrected for distortion even at the 4.

5 mm end and has a very flat field close up which makes it well suited for many versatile uses. There are a number of things of note on this lens. In sunny conditions with light coming in at an angle you sometimes get some bloom and halos when the lens is wide open.

You can use the manual aperture mode, and stop down the lens one stop (this lens has one waterhouse stop that engages when you do this). This appears to control a lot of the bloom. This waterhouse stop also adds a little more depth of field should you need it.

There is also an ND8 filter built in, but I don’t usually use it. Another note with this lens is it does not have a constant aperture throughout the focal length range. However, if you use the lens as a set of fixed primes like I do, you can keep an eye on the aperture to preset a particular focal length you want to use.

This is a rough list of apertures (lens wide open) and corresponding focal lengths: f2. 0, 4. 5 mm (25 mm equiv. ), f2. 2, 5 mm (27. 8 mm equiv. ), f2. 5, 6. 3 mm (35 mm equiv. ), f2. 8, 7. 3 mm (40.

56 mm equiv. ), f3. 2, 9 mm (50 mm equiv. ), f3. 5, 10. 3 mm (57 mm equiv. ), f4. 1, 13. 6 mm (75. 6 mm equiv. ), f4. 5, 15. 6 mm (86. 7 mm equiv. ), f4. 9, 18 mm (100 mm equiv. ). Depending on what I am doing and what sort of compression or effect I want, I pick the focal length I need and shoot on that focal length.

Since I got this camera, I got a few different things. I now have three LI-92B batteries and the UC-92 charger. Unlike my Nikons which last quite a while, this often needs more charging especially if you use it heavily.

Having the UC-92 charger and three batteries means that I can keep using this camera without interruption. I also got the CLA-T01 converter adapter and have a step up ring attached to it so I can use polarizers, black and white contrast filters, and other filters I have.

The converter adapter, like the ring on the camera appears to be plastic at first glance (the ring on the camera does have a metal ring inset in it), but they both appear to be a strong glass fiber composite material (the glass fiber fill adds strength and dimensional stability to the plastic).

You can see the fibers when you shine a bright light on it. It not your general run of the mill cheap plastic. This is the light and strong material you usually find in cameras and other industrial applications.

The adapter piece attaches smoothly with an external bayonet. I do wish they put the locating dot on the top instead of at the bottom, but now that I have used this for months and months, I’m used to attaching these accessories.

One last thing with this camera is because of the way it is set up, when you have one command dial that handles focus, aperture, and exposure, for some critical work, you do need to work a bit getting everything set up.

The result, however, can be quite rewarding, and very much repeatable. All this said, you might ask, isn’t the iPhone Pro Max 12 also weatherproofed and doesn’t it have a bigger sensor in it than this TG-6? Why should I get this? I’ve shot with the Pro Max 12, had fun with it, and produced some work with it, but there are a few key places where the TG-6 shines.

On the Pro Max 12, the resolution of the lens appears to be at its best in the mid-range to moderate focusing distance. You also have a lot less fine grained control over your exposure, white balance (You even have one touch white balance on the TG-6 with multiple presets just like on the professional Olympus OM bodies–I love this feature), and focus on the Pro Max 12 unless you crack out some special apps.

Having all the fine grained controls on the TG-6 makes it a reliable tool that can give you repeatable results. This can be key if you are using your TG-6 for serious work and have a specific vision in mind.

Also, you can also only use the Pro Max 12 main camera with the large sensor with one lens, and your magnification, close focusing distance, and resolution up close cannot be compared to the lens in the TG-6.

Another difference is that the Pro Max 12 uses a lot of processing tricks and often has some marked difficulty with sharpening artifacts. On the TG-6, your out of camera JPEGs often appear to have a more natural rendering.

The TG-6 relies on its optics and sensor heavily to give you the results it gets you, and this often gives a more natural rendering and character. I may use large format, medium format, and miniature format (full frame) for a lot of my work, but I love this little subminiature format camera.

I may not have originally got it for serious work, but it has won me over with what it is able to do and all the serious work I was able to do with it. I can look at a scene and have a picture in my mind of what I want and know exactly what I need to do on my TG-6 to make that vision become reality.

What else is a camera for anyway? This truly has found a permanent place next to all the other gear I use to make pictures. Is it pouring rain outside? Does your back hurt? Grab one of these. Work to learn what it can do for you and make your ideas come to life.

Where’s the proof you ask? I am attaching two images I made, both of which are straight out of camera (not sure if the EXIF data will survive, but you can download them to check and see if it’s there).

One was made during a photo walk during a torrential downpour, and the other was made directly after it stopped raining and the sun came out (usually at this time, there is water still falling out of the leaves in the treetops).

I bought this less than 2 years ago for my husband as a Christmas gift. It was a lot of money for us but we love to snorkel on vacation and had an older version of this camera that we loved so I pulled the trigger.

Because of covid (we weren’t able to travel), we have only used this camera once (snorkeling in Mexico). We took it to Mexico last month and it wouldn’t charge. We thought maybe it was the outlets but that wasn’t it.

When we got home we bought a new battery and it still wouldn’t work. We are pretty upset. It’s a ton of money anyway but to only work once? We called and were told the only option was to pay $175 (approximately) to have it fixed.

I really don’t want to put anymore money into something that obviously isn’t a good product. It takes a lot for me to write a bad review but this warrants it.

First off, I’ve been using Nikon cameras for almost 30 years. So please consider that if you are looking for a more “comparative” review. The nearest competitor I use is the Sony A6000, a completely different ballgame.

That said, it means I’ve been through the FM, FM2, F2, F3, F100, D50, AND D200, and currently use the 3500 as well as a D7500. The 3500 is wonderfully lightweight and compact Dslr, with outstanding image quality, compact format factor, exceptionally good lenses (10-20, 18-55, 70-300; all af-p’s and a 35/1.

8 and 85/1. 8 af-s), and incredibly good battery life. I don’t hesitate to use it on jobs. There is not a single complaint I can levy against this camera. I only shoot stills and don’t “chimp” (I’m a film guy), and it never has let me down.

I’m in manual mode 100% of the time, restrict auto ISO to 6400 and bang away. I’ve never had a camera stand out of my way so willingly and get such repeatable results. I use a few non-ai lenses so I love the absence of the ai tab on other, more expensive Nikons, so huge bonus there.

All of the above can be echoed for the D7500, and use both regularly. Highly recommended.

So far so good! I’m a complete novice when it comes to DSLRs. In the age of the smartphone, I never really had the chance to have an interest in standalone cameras. I received this camera for my birthday and have been having a lot of fun taking pictures and messing around in manual mode.

The presets are good and intuitive, and there’s even a guide setting that helps to get you the pictures you want to take. The camera feels solid in my hand, and comes with a nice strap to hang around the neck and shoulders.

I love that you can connect the camera to your phone via Bluetooth and send pictures so that you can quickly upload them to social media. The battery life is good – I’ve only charged it once since taking it out of the box and have been using the camera for about an hour or so everyday for a week, plus I’ve forgotten to turn it off on at least one night.

I took one star off because there is no way to attach a microphone, which I feel is a basic function that a camera of this caliber should have. As of now, I’ve only been taking pictures of my kids and inanimate objects.

I watched a few YouTube videos to get me started and now I’m just practicing to get better in the manual settings. If you’re on the fence about buying a DSLR in 2021 and the age of the semi-decent iPhone camera, I say do it! It’s a fun hobby that you can pick up and learn quickly.

My husband bought me this camera for my birthday. I have owned it for over two years, and it has always been my go-to camera! I literally bring it everywhere to take pictures and make memories. We are avid travelers, and I have taken it all the way from Hawaii to Florida.

I have made dozens of photo books, and have taken my children’s senior photos, wedding photos, new baby photos, and so many vacation photos. The camera is easy to use, easy to transport and easy to clean.

I take it to the beach a lot, so it sometimes gets a little salt water condensation on the lens. However, I use specially made lens cleaner for my camera and a soft, microfiber cloth, and everything looks like new.

The quality of the pictures is always crisp and clean. I have won awards for some of my photographs using this camera. One thing that I would suggest is to purchase an attachable lens cover.

I’ve owned this camera for about a week, and so far it’s great. I’m only a photography hobbyist, and this is great for my current capabilities and understanding of photography. I’ve used it on a couple of photo walks with folks around my neighborhood, and it’s very light/portable.

It’s the perfect size to put in one of those Patagonia Atom sling bags to keep at the ready. The battery lasts a long time and charges quickly. I’ve kept it in manual mode the whole time I’ve had it, and being able to change the ISO on the fly is a completely new concept for me, as I’ve only shot film until owning this camera.

Being able to change the ISO, the shutter speed, and the aperture all with the same dial is a very handy feature. Before I figured out how to do that, I was changing all those settings on the touch-screen like a scrub.

The screen is great, and it’s very easy to move into different positions. The screen even automatically turns off when you bring the camera up to your face so you don’t accidentally change any settings with your nose.

The menus are also very straightforward. The camera ships with Japanese as the default language, but in spite of that, I was able to find my way to the ‘change default language’ and switch it to english.

The lens it ships with is great too. It’s good for shooting up-close subjects, but you’ll need something bigger for subjects further away. Overall, it’s a good amateur-level camera. I haven’t truly put it through its paces yet, but I’m looking forward to it.

My aging Nikon D5200 has a lot of shutter actuations, an increase in hot pixels, and a cracked but functional LCD screen. I was ready to go mirrorless, but I could not find something that would match up with an all-in-one lens.

I would have liked to continue using a Tamron 18-400, but I was open to a mirrorless compatible lens if it could offer a similar range of coverage. I did not, so I looked at Nikon’s SLRs. Weight has become important to me; the D5600 was the lightest.

Similarities with the body and menus to the D5200 were also a plus. My prior lenses remained usable. Having opted for the D5600, I found that almost none were in stock. It is now labeled an older product.

Nikon may have discontinued its manufacture. Bodies alone were not available, so I took a gamble with a kit lens and body combo. The gamble is that there is no manufacturer warrantee, only a limited warrantee by the seller, because the products were not produced for our region.

I got a shock when I turned on the camera; the menus were in Asian pictographs. I did find one line that was in Roman letters -Language. Once I selected that and English I was ready to continue my set-up.

The D5600 works, and is compatible with my lenses. However the New Nikkor 18-55 lens is not reverse compatible with my D5200. When the 18-55 is put on the D5200, the message Lens not attached appears.

I note the my ML-L3 infrared remote does not work on the newer D5600. I did buy a corded remote instead. So far the gamble has worked. I may go mirrorless and or full frame later, but for now I can wait for the right all-in-one zooms to develop.

If I find any other issues with the D5600, I’ll update this review.

I did a lot of research before choosing the Nikon D5600. I just wanted a new hobby and decided to take up photography. I even upgraded my cell phone to support the camera. I don’t have any problems using the Snapbridge although the WiFi sometimes takes few minutes to connect.

It seems to have an easier time hooking up when I am away from the network at my house. Every photo I have snapped is instantly on my phone and my Nikon Image Space account. I like the way the D5600 feels in my hand.

I adore the articulated touch screen. That feature alone is the reason I chose this camera over the D3500. The controls on the camera work well with me. This might be because I am not comparing the camera with any other camera.

The included 18-55 AF-P VR kit lens seems to be of a really nice lens. I am saving up for my next lens. The AF-S 35mm f/1. 8. I have read the reviews. I am really liking my new hobby because I chose a great camera to start with.

The only things about the kit that I am not thrilled about are camera strap and the white piece of plastic rear lens cap. Those two issues have already been remedied. The flash on the D5600 is very nice.

It gets used often because the kit lens relies on it because it is not a low light lens. Pictures turn out great! I am impressed by the image quality of camera and lens combo and how instantly it focuses.

I bought David Busch’s “Nikon D5600 Guide to DLSR Photography” which brought up to speed really quickly, as none of photos I have taken were done in full “AUTO” mode. All in all I am beyond thrilled with my Nikon D5600 and Adorama’s service.

They are now my go-to camera shop. Thank you!.

Camera, lenses, battery, etc. , all arrived safely, and on time, in a very nice case. First time I have used any camera rental service, and I’m glad I choose Lenrentals. I had heard good things about them and now I see why.

I rented a Nikon D5600 and three lenses to see if a small, older DSLR would be a good fit for me. The camera takes great pictures, but I decided it wasn’t what I wanted. So I figure I spent a little money to save me from a more expensive wrong decision, plus I enjoyed playing with the camera for a few days.

Also, if I had wanted to purchase the camera, they offered me a deal to keep the camera and one of the lenses at a price that included a partial discount of the rental fee. (It would have been a good deal if I had wanted to get the D5600.

) The rental process is explained well and they provide all of the supplies you’ll need to pack the items for return. Very easy process. Also, if you’re nervous about damaging your rental items, they offer insurance at a reasonable price.

I will definitely use Lensrentals again.

I am comparing this camera with my old DSLR Nikon D5500 that has the same sensor size, same number of pixels and overall comparable set of features. I also used very comparable zoom lenses. Considering that Nikon is 6 years old and cost less, I expected to get at least as good image quality from the new Sony a6400.

Here is what I have in fact after doing extensive side by side comparison: * SONY tends to use higher ISO at the same conditions, and even at the same ISO its images are noisier (I used fine and extra-fine settings).

Essentially, it cannot be used for indoor photography without a flash even in a very light room. * Bokah effect is more pleasing in case of Nikon than in SONY in most cases. For those unfamiliar, this is the aesthetic quality of washed up background in the pictures with selective focus.

And when you have a zoom lens 18-135, you definitely will use selective focus for portraits etc. * The use of touch screen is very limited in the SONY. There is no easy way of scrolling the pictures and zooming by using usual touch-screen gestures.

A couple of observations unrelated to the Nikon/SONY comparison. * There are wifi and blue tooth connection features, but they are buggy and pretty much don’t work. The app needed for transferring photos is not even available anymore.

* As a positive point, I can mention very detailed menu with a lot customization. Altogether, I do not recommend this camera, at least as an upgrade.

The version I bought comes with a simple 16-50mm lens to get started, and having owned it for a year, it’s served as primarily a video camera with photography on the side, and has even been used as a webcam.

Compared to what I was using before, this is a marked improvement as the quality of the video is substantially better. Photos are also very good, although you may want to invest in some better lenses, as the one that came with mine – although perfectly sufficient for the camera to work – results in pretty soft images with a few problems around the edges (though if you have photo editing software, that won’t be too big a problem).

The menu is a bit finnicky, however; it can be a bit awkward to find certain settings, but it’s still reasonably navigable. The only real downside to this camera is the audio; if you want good audio, you simply need an external microphone, because the camera’s mic is very tinny and not very pleasant to listen to.

It’s also accepts USB Micro-B instead of USB C, so that’s something to take into consideration. In all, it’s a very good camera for the price I paid at the time, and if you happen to upgrade to a different camera in the future, it’d be wise to keep this as a B-camera.

I bought this camera, a bit more than a year ago. I am very happy to have it as it has all the necessary features for still and video. It has a lot of advantages, for example the crop factor of 1. 5x makes my 70-200m G lens be an effective 105 – 300mm G lens.

This is great because I can have basically the 10-18 F4, the 18-105 F4 and the 70-200 (effective 105-300mm) F4. You can also have the 200-600mm which would be an effective 300-900 mm and most of them would be at a constant F4, internal zoom and image stabilization across the board.

I have most of these lenses too and I couldn’t be happier about them! The crop sensor is brilliant, it takes amazing stills and the density of pixels means sharper images. The only addition I would make to this camera, would be the ibis.

That would be an amazing feature. I guess that’s why they made the A6600. As a first proper camera, it has a big learning curve but I enjoy it every time. One of the moat enjoyable objects I have ever bought in my entire life!.

I decided to switch to Fuji after my Sony a6000 stopped working. I have only had it for a couple of weeks now but I believe I made the right choice choice. This is a great camera. And the included 18-55mm “kit lens” is excellent.

The menu layout is cleaned compared to Sony. The physical buttons and dials make it much easier to adjust settings on the fly. I have not felt the need to shoot in RAW or use post-processing because the camera jpegs are that good.

The film simulations, shadow and highlight adjustments make it easy to control the tone of your images. The controls might take a little time to get used to, though. The positioning of the Q button is a little awkward, as it can be easily pressed by accident.

The other issue is ergonomics, as the design makes gripping it a little difficult. My a6000 was easier to handle despite being almost the same size. However, these are minor drawbacks to what is otherwise a very good system.

Took this on a camping trip with the 18-55mm kit, Rokinon 12mm, and Tokina 100mm macro. Overall an excellent camera with a few flaws. The positioning of the Q button is terrible. It’s somewhat too sensitive and activates even when my thumb is next to it with a tiny bit of the finger at the edge of the button.

I’ve accidentally bumped into the Q menu nearly every time I have the camera in my hand. Supposedly Fuji has just released a firmware to add a delay before the Q menu opens up. Fuji’s companion phone app is extremely slow to connect with the camera.

You’d want to invest in a real release cable or intervalometer if you do long exposures. I tried doing a 30 minutes exposure for star trails. Used the Fuji phone app to hold the shutter open, and the phone’s clock app for timer.

For some reason the camera had ended the exposure around 13 minutes in and went on standby. I’ll have to do further testing on this.

I originally ordered the fujifilm for the photography aspect. I really love how it had the film simulations for the camera. They actually turned out great, but I think I will go for a different type of fujifilm.

The camera took a bit of getting use to being that I was switching over from Sony to test this one out.