20 Best Item For Powerful Components (2023 Updated)

Order and received it the next day. Order 2 pair of 6×8 and an 8 sub for my 2003 lincoln aviator to replace the factory system. Perfect fit on the doors. Plastic factory sub box had to be cut bigger with a razor knife so it fit the sub opening but no big deal.

All in all the system sounds Amazing. However. My stock head unit wasn’t powerful enough to push these speakers. So I bought a kenwood with full eq for sound quality. Installed it and it pushing 55 watts per channel.

And turned up about 3/4 volume all the way up and these speakers are awesome. Still not enough power. Just bought a taramp 800×4. Comes in Thursday. Running each door. Can’t wait to hear them after. Finally I will be able to hear these speakers sing and not have to have it on full blast to hear the quality.

I tuned each speaker using classical and symphony music to get the sound I was searching for and then brought up the sub. The little 8″ sub hits hard. I’m running it with a 2500 watt amp only turned up 1/4 way.

I am pushing for clean crisp sound in my SUV. I want to feel like I’m at a real live concert and I can play anything with these speakers from rap to rock to country to classical to symphony, I mean really anything and these speakers and sub sound epic.

The sound is amazing and it’s so clear. I’ll update once the door amp comes in and ofc door wiring is installed. Skar u guys are amazing and will have a customer for life. Keep up the great work and job.

Definitely recommend.

These are a great bang for the buck sub and they sound and hit pretty clean. For the price you really can’t go wrong. Have 2 of these in the trunk of my bmw, if anyone knows bmw they know the trunks are pretty well sealed from the cab.

They would probably be louder in an suv or some type of hatch back but I’m not complaining. I use to be a big bass head but with age I tend to focus my money towards higher end equipment. That being said I’m running all alpine amps, hertz audio Mille pro 3 ways, a pioneer nex head unit, and a pair of these in a pre fab box and I think the whole setup sounds great.

I have to say that I was rather impressed with these shallow mount subs!!! Originally under my backseat in a wedge box for spacial reasons, but knew they were being choked. Put em in an SPL Box and they came Alive! Price was more than fair and sounded rich in the upper 40s and deep in the 30s.

Highly recommend and great construction of a sub!.

The CORSAIR XTM50 High PerformanceThermal Paste Kit worked great for my laptop. I have an older HP laptop from 2013 timeframe and this paste worked wonders in restoring to working status. It was shutting off due to CPU over heating.

Since applying this paste it been running fine. This thermal paste definitely works. Be careful when applying the paste it will exit the tube quickly if you press the syringe type extractor too hard, so have the past applicator ready to catch the extra that will come out while applying.

Considering you would apply the paste right on the CPU and video chips as I did. How much you will need will actually be determined by your processor chip size as far as coverage. You don’t want it to run in excess.

There are stencils and an application guide in the kit to help. My laptop processor and video processor layout was too small to use the guides. I used a YouTube video as a guide to determine how much and how to apply for my older laptop.

All in all, a great product that does what it says.

So, about the title: I don’t believe $15 accurately prices this item. I’d knock it a few dollars down because even if the product is good, the inclusion of an small acrylic applicator and a manual does not warrant a near double price increase over the TM30 product (which is $8).

Personally something like $12 would be more my preference, but that’s besides the point. As for the actual product, I applied it to my CPU using the included applicator and it worked, I’ve seen overall slightly lower temps than the stock thermal paste application included in my computer.

(Which, well, I wish it was more of a difference, but a puny Intel stock cooler can only do so much. ) I’ll definitely be keeping this around for my future upgrades due to its ability to be used for multiple applications.

Though, if I could say one thing I wish was included: cleaning wipes. Honestly thought it’d be a nobrainer as part of a “kit” but apparently they aren’t included in this which is a shame.

My computer kept freezing up and rebooting while gaming. Frustrating to say the least! I searched online and I narrowed it down to RX-570 video card. Since nobody has GPUs in stock (at least ones that aren’t incredibly overpriced) I MAY have freaked out a little.

However, someone on Reddit suggested checking the thermal paste on the GPU. I grabbed this stuff based on great reviews, and the fact that it was 7. 99, because why not? I opened up the video card and cleaned off the old paste.

It was pretty trashy. A shot of the new paste and some careful reassembly and I was ready to try it out. Happy to say it did the trick! I let my kid loose on Roblox and Minecraft for two hours and then I spent an hour in Dying Light.

The fans on the GPU never hit higher than 50%. I opened up the AMD software and put it through a stress test and the fan still stayed below 70%. Max temp hit 57C over a 90 second stress. Buy this stuff and put it on everything!.

This is my first experience with CT Sounds products. I installed two sets of Meso 6. 5” components in my Kia Optima with an older Punch 600. 4 amp. I am running a Pioneer NEX-8000 headunit. Twisted pair RCA cables.

I have to say I’m blown away by the quality of the speakers and the sound reproduction they’re capable of. I was a huge audiophile back when car audio was a huge thing and I’m very impressed. For the price they far far exceed my expectations.

The last set of components I installed was in the early 2000’s I had four sets of Rockford Fanatic Q’s and I’m a big RF guy. These out perform my old Fanatic Q’s by a long shot. Highly recommend to anyone looking to not break the bank but receive high end quality and sound stage reproduction! Really looking forward to receiving my Meso 6.

5” subs. As great as these sound and the lows they’re capable of hitting as a mid driver those little guys are going to be amazing !.

I did some research before pulling the trigger on buying these Meso Comp set. For the Price you pay, you’re buying a Mid tier Comp set. These are in par with these 500 dollar speaker sets. I’ve owned Kicker, CDT, Massive Audio, MB quarts, Alpine.

CDT, MB quarts, Massive Audio have very bright tweeters. I’ve listen to Morel, Arc, Kar Design and other brands. These are a bang for the buck. These Meso are smooth and warm and doesn’t hurt your ears compare to MB Quarts, CDT and Massive.

I have the crossover set to -3db on stock head-unit power. I read the review here about a guy buying these and not liking them and were comparing them to his MB quarts. Don’t get me wrong MB quarts are nice, however they play more on the bright side of things.

The Mid Bass are very nice, this set up is more of SQ rather then Loud. Don’t get me wrong these things can be loud but the clarity from the tweeters and mid bass are perfect to my ears. Need to supply them with Amp Power and deadening the doors.

I use this song https://www. youtube. com/watch?v=sAouQH-34hs to compare to any speaker I test or listen too.

I did a few months of research before deciding which company to go with. Although price point is way on-point, I chose CT Sounds because of how happy most of the customers were. Not only with the product, but the owner and customer service as well.

I took advantage of the pre-order a few months ago on the Meso 6. 5” components and have been active in the Facebook group anxiously anticipating the arrival of those bad mo-fo’s (they are ridiculous btw.

Thank you! ) I was already becoming a fan of the company even before seeing how well Coleman interacts with his customers. I’m absolutely blown away and can not wait to outfit my entire 5. 9 grand Cherokee with all CT Sounds.

(Factory Is 6-6. 5’s and 4 1” tweeters). Sorry for the long review. Just wanted to emphasize how bad ass y’all are and I hope the service and product continue to impress. Thanks so much and I look forward to getting more red boxes in the mail.

I don’t like to review things with out giving perspective. I want people to understand where my experience is coming from when I write this. I currently run a 5. 1 channel surround sound system in a living room that is less than 380 sq ft.

My center is a Klipsch RP-504C, my left and rights are Klipsch r-41M’s (will be replaced soon with RP 8000f’s), my rears are a pair of Klipsch RP-600M’s, and my sub is the SVS PB3000. Due to space and setup, the front floor standing speakers have to remain on hold.

Because the room is small in size and SVS puts out so much bass, I was more content going with this receiver. Klipsch are known to come to life with lower amounts of wattage (it’s quite true) and mine have an RMS rating of 150W.

This is rated to be 90W per channel but it’s not for all seven channels, and I am not 100% sure it is actually 90W being produced. I think all receiver menus for tuning such and are so behind the times so I am going to complain about that but the rest of the world is also annoyed at that.

Anyway, I have yet to run into any issues with using the menus, it is relatively navigable, and easier to learn using, so that is a plus. The room correction doesn’t work really well for my personal setup, perhaps your experience will differ, so I decided to just leave everything standard and just tune my subwoofer accordingly so it’s balanced.

It’s not a perfect solution but it has made for an amazing experience. It has most of the features you’re looking for in a receiver, Dolly Atmos, supports up to 8k 60hz, it has plenty of HDMI ports for multiple devices, supports ARC and eARC, supports Dolby Digital, DTS, HDR10 and HDR10+, it is capable of supporting two subwoofers (not individual channels), and more.

I bought this while it was on sale for around $549, so if you are looking for a receiver in this range, I would try and wait for a good sale. Otherwise, I would you keep your eye on other receivers around this price range from Denon or Marantz, you might find something much better all around if you stretch your budget.

I recommend this product for purchasing but I personally recommend you save the full retail amount and then wait for a big holiday sale. Then, with that $849, see when higher tier models you might be able to get your hands on with the money already allocated toward the receiver.

Regardless of your own situation, it won’t disappoint.

I got a 4K TV and my 11yr old Yamaha RX-V381 Yamaha would only support 1080P so I decided to upgrade my receiver in order to send 4K to the TV. Due to the widespread shortage of pretty much everything, Best Buy only had about 3 entry level receivers and one midrange receiver (this one) to pick from.

I was tired of the Yamaha’s clunky menus and unintuitive GUI so I went with the Denon AVR-3700H. After spending a good hour connecting everything, my first sign of trouble was when the getting started wizard did not show anything when it tested the HDMI port where my home theatre Windows 10 PC was connected.

To make a long story short, about 4hrs worth of fiddling later and nothing would make the receiver consistently handshake with the PC. I tried different HDMI ports on the receiver and PC, updated the drivers, updated the firmware, tried different power on/power off sequences etc.

One power on it would work fine, the next no signal, the next there was a display but no audio, etc. I also tried dropping the video card in the PC down to 1080P, up to 4K, etc. This was the same PC that had worked flawlessly with the Yamaha for the past 3+yrs.

I called Denon’s tech support the next day and they stated on the phone that they do not support PCs connected to the HDMI ports, only HDMI devices. That was all I needed to hear, I packed up the Denon and took it back to Best Buy.

After taking the Denon back to Best Buy, I had the same problem I had before; nothing but entry level receivers on the shelf to pick from. At this point I did not trust any brand but Yamaha so I purchased the Yamaha – RX-V4A.

After connecting everything I immediately updated the firmware in the Yamaha RX-V4A because some of the reviews for it were pretty terrible with the older firmware. I then switched to the PC HDMI input port and it worked first try; audio no problems and 4K video.

I tested extensively, and I did not have a single problem. So for me all is well that ends well, I ended up saving almost $1400 and got the reliability back that I expected when switching to the PC HDMI input, but after my experience there’s no way I would recommend a Denon.

I have owned several Denon tuners, amplifiers, and receivers over the years and have always been very happy with them. I have been using a Denon AVR-X4000 receiver installed in a media closet to feed two TVs (den and living room).

This only provides surround sound in one room, so after buying a new OLED TV for the den, I decided to add a surround sound in that room with a second receiver. I wanted to stick with Denon because of positive experiences with the brand and their excellent network protocol for easy control over my home network.

I usw custom software on iPads to control my TVs and media devices, and the Denon IP interface is the best I’ve used. I considered a lower-priced Denon unit, but I wanted one with dual-room outputs for maximum flexibility.

The AVR-X3700H was the lowest priced option with that feature so I chose it. Comparing it to my existing AVR-X4000, it’s nearly identical. The two units are the same size and construction, and the front and rear panels share the same basic layout.

The user interface is also the same. Being familiar with all of this, setup was quick and easy. Using the included microphone for AUDYSSEY setup really improves the sound, tailoring it to the room’s acoustic qualities.

I have all of my media sources connected to the AVR-X3700H and it feeds the new OLED TV in the den. I use its 2nd room output to feed the AVR-X4000 so that both TVs in the den and living room can share among media sources.

So far, I am very satisfied with the AVR-X3700H. The sound and video quality are excellent, and it handles all of my sources with seven HDMI 2. 1 ports supporting the latest HDR formats and HDCP 2. 3, plus Bluetooth audio input and Internet audio.

One thing to note is that unlike the AVR-X4000, this receiver does not convert analog input sources to the HDMI outputs. I normally don’t use any analog sources, but I did try to connect an VCR to play some old home movies and that won’t work.

Also, I have an issue with a hum on my subwoofer when I connect its amplifier to the AVR-X3700X’s 12v trigger output. This has not been a problem when it was connected to the AVR-X4000. I tried grounding the units together, but that did not work, so I just leave the subwoofer amp in “auto” mode.

Because of those two shortcoming, and the high price to step up form a single room model,I give this receiver 4 out of 5 stars. If it’s like any other Denon equipment I’ve owned, it should give me years of home theater service, and I do recommend it.

So, this is on me for not analyzing the description better, but it was larger than I thought. I wanted a smaller IFAK to go on my battle belt, but this thing was too bulky for my liking. Would be fine to mount to a plate carrier, but for a battle belt, I would go with something smaller.

Also, quite pricey for a medkit that has no medical supplies. I assumed it did, based on the pictures and the pricing, but again, I should’ve read the description. However, I can get a fully-stocked IFAK for $100 or less from North American Rescue or Medical Gear Outfitters.

Just can’t justify the price on this one, with so many better options out there. LAPG Customer service was really helpful though, and I was able to return it for a full refund.

For the price I felt like I expected more. I’ve been wanting this kit for awhile and I was a little disappointed. It looks and feels like a knockoff. Time will tell if it will hold up. But it holds all my ifak that I threw into it.

It all held together so we will see how it goes. Should do a follow up review a few longhair from now and see.

It fits my kit really well, I just wish that the latches on the back. We’re spaced out just slightly wider so it can fit my LAPG pants without bunching up the middle belt loop. Awesome carrier and may possibly get another one in blac.

Constant radio static: Steelseries support claims this is an unavoidable part of wireless audio. Im not sure if they are dumb or think we are. This is the only wireless device i’ve owned, besides a cheap kids walkie talkie set, to have static.

They sound awful: The have almost no base at all. As in when you run the sound test from windows sound menu, you almost cannot hear the base voice line at all. Same for the steelseries GG softwares audio test.

The software is severley lacking: The equalizer is missing most of the sound range, giving you very few options for improving the sound. They have a beta software called sonar, which has some of the best features iv’e seen and drastically improved the quality of the headset to atleast match cheap earbuds.

But this software works with any audio device from any brand. So your still better off starting with a better headset. The construction is flimsy, impossible to repair and uncomfortable: The ear cups are connected by a single hollow rotating joint.

Any drop or big bump threatens to turn this $500 headset into a useless lump of plastic. The weird way they connect to the headset makes it nearly impossible to tape or glue it back together if it did break.

The headband design is bewildering, the single thin unpadded strip is guarenteed to start causing pain in any extended gaming session. The solid arching piece connecting the ear cups, seems to just add unnecassary weight and barley holds tension.

The cups are only just wide enough for my above average ears. But not nearly deep enough. if your ears stick out these will likely be painful for extended wear.

I have had this headset since November 2018 and It’s an ALRIGHT headset but definitely not worth the price. PROS – 2 batteries so you can quickly switch between them so you can charge one while using the other – Wireless – Good mic – Good sound – volume wheel on headset is good – Wireless base station with a good screen – Bluetooth connectivity so I can talk to someone on the phone while simultaneously having game sounds coming through the headset – Mic retracts to be nearly invisible Cons – The on button.

You have to hold it for what feels like 5-10 seconds before it turns on. – The headset turns off when you switch the batteries so you have to turn it on again when you put the new one in. – The mute mic button is really sticky and doesn’t feel high quality.

Plastic rubbing against plastic and not pushing in smoothly. – The “game audio” and “chat audio” thing is horrible. My chat audio always comes through with a high pitch wine. I have all my audio running through “game audio” – The headset sometimes switches on and off when I put the headset down and pick it up.

– Head band does not have enough range for different sized heads. – The small nail cut out for taking the side panel off is difficult if you have short nails. – Ear cup “leather” degraded and disintegrated, leaving black stuff on the side of my face.

– Part where the metal head band arm met the ear cup broke on the ear cup plastic. – It can connect to your computer via a cable but not USB C. -.

The comfort is good and the overall sound quality and mic is pretty good. That said, i believe it is way overpriced for what you are getting, and the HiFi aspect is a bit of a gimmick considering what these are made for.

Some games don’t play well with the HiFi 96hz mode enabled (I also have a MOTU M2 audio interface that can run at 192KHZ with my 250 ohm Beyerdynamic DT770 Pros). The problem with Hifi mode in games with the Steel Series DAC mostly has to do with the directional quality as the sound isn’t fluid as you pan around.

It randomly jumps sometimes instead of panning smoothly when orienting your character in a video game. That isn’t the case with HiFi mode off, but there is also an issue the appears when running these in the normal “PC” mode.

There is a well known glitch i quickly discovered when running this headset on the default “PC” mode which gives you separate controllable channels (thru the DAC) for both your chat and game audio. They are called “GameDAC Chat” and “GameDAC Game”.

If you do not put your PC to sleep with the “GameDAC Game” set as the audio solution currently being used “GameDAC Game” will disappear in the audio menu when you wake your PC. You will have to either unplug and re-plugin the DAC, or go into the DAC menu and turn on “HiFi” mode for a second, then turn HIFI mode off.

Windows 10 will display the “GameDAC Game” audio selection again. Just Google “GameDAC Game disappearing” and you will see what I am talking about. It is an issue that has been going on since release of this headset, but hasn’t been fixed for some reason.

I am enjoying the music cast immensely! The main purpose for me was to wirelessly stream Bluetooth and internet radio. I noticed a bit of electronic cord interference with it located in office near a bundle of electronics such as a 2 laptops, desktop computer, stereo amplifier, CD player, 2 power strips and LED desktop lights and simply relocated it further away which others may find helpful.

This eliminated the interference. Only downside is cost of Yamaha musicast speakers which is 500 or so and I used my stereo speakers. If I purchased again, I would get version with speaker outputs which is about $150 more to make it more versatile for me but that is based on my needs and may not be necessary for your needs.

Again, pleased with purchase and no regrets. Nice quality unit, built well and heavy for a small unit which is nice! Plenty of inputs too. The version with speaker outputs would have replaced my amp and I could listen to local FM through internet which eliminates need for FM tuner.

You have a portable hi res player and headphones great. So what about your home. This is what you need! Play all your hi res audio files with this. Use as a preamp or player only. I use mine as a player with my hifi system.

Usb with computer and dacs are nothing but problems. Get a tablet and 1tb sd card. Enjoy all your high res audio wireless. Flac up to 24/192 and DSD audio at your finger tips. You can also put a USB thumb drive in the back of this unit and forgo the SD card.

Lots of choices. Mine feeds a bitfrost dac and then a preamp. I’m tempted to use this as a preamp one day but never go around to it. Bottom line this is by far the easiest way to play hi res at home.

I have a Yamaha mini stereo system which I use with the WXC-50. It is about 12 years old, but I did not want to replace this system because it still works good. With the WXC-50, I can now listen to digital radio stations and use my smartphone to change stations and other functions.

I can also now listen to music from my smartphone on my stereo system via Bluetooth. The wi-fi connection works fine for me (no connection problems). The WXC-50 also contains various additional inputs and outputs.

I do not use most of them but its nice to know they are there if need them. The only problem is that there is no way that I know of to share the same set of digital radio stations between two MusiCast devices.

I have a Yamaha MusiCast stereo receiver in another room but could not tell the Musicast software (on my phone) to use the same stations for the WXC-50 as I had programmed in for the receiver. Hopefully, Yamaha will fix this issue in a future software upgrade.

This thing has completely changed the sound of my speakers for the better! I have 18″ PA woofers installed into home made “H-Frame” dipole cabinets and 8″ full range drivers on simple “open baffle” flat panels above them.

There are no passive crossovers. When I built these I found a pair of Crown XLS 1500 amplifiers on close out. The Crowns have 48db LR crossovers built in so I just used those to cross the full rangers and the bass cabs at around 125 Hz.

Preamp duties were handled by my Yamaha receiver which did not have the gain that the Crowns would have preferred. Through a bit of tweaking, at the expense of headroom, I made this work anyway and enjoyed them this way for several years.

Then the PA2 arrived, which I actually bought to help dial in a new 3-way speaker build, and I could finally let the Crowns run full range and could relax the gain setup on my Yamaha (that -10/+4db switch on the back of the PA2 is the golden ticket!) My speakers finally get the high pass 48db @ 350Hz and low pass 12db @ 100Hz that they were designed for and sound superb! Much more headroom, clean power on tap, without clipping, lower distortion, and what sounds to my ears like better channel separation to boot.

I can finally run these speakers to concert level SPLs and the Crowns don’t even break a sweat (any more!) And the noise floor is DEAD SILENT. I love it! The only things I would change, if I could, would be that the rack mount ears on the PA2 were removable, to look more at place in a non-rack environment, AND that dbx had simply included a wifi chip on board rather than needing to run CAT5 to a wifi router to use the app.

The app DOES work extremely well and besides having very tiny fonts (on my cell phone), it is a joy to use, to adjust parameters right from my favorite listening position. Great device and the changes it gave me make me think it was worth every penny.

Awesome unit, these things get some bad rap from some of the “pros” due to all of the “auto” features but even the pros can’t argue that it replaces a lot of other standalone units. I do not use for Auto EQ, I always walk the room with my iPad and set the graphic EQ and adjust crossover points.

The AFS (advanced feedback suppression) is an invaluable tool and should be used by everyone from a wedding DJ to a full FOH setup. Two things it’s missing that would make it 5-stars. #1 is the ability to use “MIDs” output for anything else like a separate output for fill speakers that could have their own delay.

Most users are using 2 way mains (or powered speakers with internal crossovers) so they don’t need the “MIDs” option. #2 is updated loudspeaker and amplifier profiles. I’m not sure how many settings are truly preset when you load the profiles, but it is shocking that this $450 current model DRPA built by the Harman Group doesn’t feature profiles for the current offerings from JBL and Crown.

Really scratching my head on that one. Overall great unit, makes an excellent addition to any loudspeaker setup. The features as well as the savings in space over an entire rack of processing equipment makes it well worth its price.

I used it many times in PA situation and recently as a art of installed system. Its easy to work with it but could use improvements like adding your own user presets for EQ section at least, adding power switch at least on the back.

its great that supports all platforms for the network wired/wifi control. Also, please update ip setup with more obvious way to reset or manually put in on the device itself.

I’m trying to be fair to this PSU. I’m giving it 3 stars because as far as I can tell, it does what it is supposed to do. It powers my PC and hasn’t set anything on fire. But I hate it. I did not like working with it, would not buy it again, and wish I hadn’t bought it to begin with.

The problem is that the cables are garbage. They are super stiff and bulky. I was working in a good sized case (Phanteks P500A) and I could not get the case closed because of how far the GPU power cables jutted out.

I had to go out and buy more flexible cable extensions (which were also far more attractive) for the GPU (and of course also had to get matching cables for the motherboard and CPU). And once I had the cable extensions, I had to spend a great deal of time attaching them and wrestling the original bulky/stiff cables into the bottom of the case so they were out of sight.

It is only the thought of dealing with these cables again that stops me from disconnecting the entire thing and returning it for a refund. Bottom line–unless this drops DRASTICALLY in price, look elsewhere.

I paid $90 (not including the $40 I had to drop on extensions), and for $90 you can get another well known brand 850 watt gold rated fully modular power supply with flat/flexible cables. (I know this for a fact–I did another build a month ago with such a PSU, and I so wish I’d gotten the same one again, rather than chosen this one because I would have it two days sooner).

So if this drops drastically in price, AND you don’t care about cable management/appearance, AND you are confident the bulky cables will fit in your case, then sure pick this PSU. If that isn’t the case, look elsewhere.

I wish I had.

If you’re in the market for a 750 watt unit, this is decent. I recently within the last 3 years decided to go back to using a desktop and have since discovered Working From Home is a thing now. Among the components required was a reliable p.

s. u. and this power supply unit ticked all the boxes for me. I originally bought a used p. s. u. off the Electronic Bay made by a manufacturer that had gone out of business in the last 5 years prior to purchase.

Yeeaaah, that unit fried immediately when I plugged it in. Out of that experience, my advice to anyone building a pc for themselves is never buy a used psu- ever. I’ll repeat that: Never EVER buy a used p.

s. u. unless you like throwing money directly into the toilet, moving a bowel onto that money and then watching as you flush it away. Pretty much illustrates how that experience feels. I bought this p.

s. u. and all my power supply problems were resolved. I definitely recommend considering this brand for your build and if you want something that has a 10 year warranty (rare) then just buy this one and look no further.

You’ll be happy with it after you start using it. Just make sure you know what your power requirements are for your build and give some leeway, better to have more than you need than exactly what you need.

Especially if you do things like plug in phones and usb fans or coffee makers or some nonsense like that.

EVGA does a pretty decent job with this power supply. It powers all of my components so what more could you want from a power supply right? While the supernova does its job, it does have some minor shortcomings- literally.

The included cables are fairly short, even for my microatx build. extensions or custom cables may be required for larger builds. Furthermore, cables on this power supply use a different pinout than other power supply companies.

If you are planning on upgrading your power supply, know that you WILL have to re-run your cables as the difference in pinouts will likely damage components. EVGA also has not changed the tooling on their cables to meet standard pin shapes.

The 24pin cable, for example, looks like it shouldn’t fit any motherboard as the “rounded” and “square” pins do not match up. Although alarming at first, this mismatch in pins is okay and the cable will fit any 24pin motherboard, albeit with a little more force than normal.

All-in-all this power supply runs efficiently and even has an eco mode switch on the back which is an awesome feature. its short comings are minor and shouldn’t prove to be an issue for anyone who does the proper amount of planning for their next build.

I like the cables since they are flexible, which fits the mini builds very well. It had worked without any problem until it was broken a week ago. I switched the graphic card from RTX3080 to RTX2080 for my wife since she needs to work in a new location.

The downgraded custom PC was for her new location during weekdays so she doesn’t need to move her current gaming PC around. Right after the completion, everything was working perfectly. It broke when my wife tried to power on the PC at her new location.

Additionally, the location was the same one when I used my previous build with CoolerMaster PSU, it never had any issues for a whole year. Thus, I believe there was nothing wrong with the voltage or anything alike.

Unfortunately, I don’t have coverage purchased for PSU because they normally work very well and last long. I couldn’t say it’s 100% Corsair’s quality issue, but comparably other brands’ work way better than yours.

Its pretty good, i have it hooked up with a evga rtx 3090 ftw3, 12700k, kington ddr5 ram 64gb 5600 with xmp, two d5 pumps, 8 200mm and 2 120mm noctua fans, 2 m. 2s, and a crucial 2. 5 ssd and it boots and ran games pretty good (no undervolt).

Did some render tests on gpu and cpu and no shut offs or anything. However it does get loud like around slight humming levels but Its like the only thing making noise so maybe Im not use to it but i am way past the silent operation mode for the psu when gaming since I draw about 500-600 watts.

The fan did have some noise like it was hitting some wiring but it did fix itself after shaking it a little. And also great cables, really flexible good for sff builds. I did order extra pcie cables from cablemod for the gpu since it uses 3 8pins.

Overall great psu but gets some noise on gaming since everthing else is so quiet.

600w Platinum, modular SFX for a great price. Bonus that the cables are sleeved to acceptable quality to slap in. It’s no boutique custom sleeved cable by any means, and the cable routing will annoy anyone trying to put cable combs in.

I ultimately just bundled and wrapped all the cables in my K77, the included branded velcro strips are a nice touch. As the listing states, the fan is silent mode and doesn’t turn on until a certain load.

In my case, that’s a little annoying because even 30% would be “”silent”” for me, and still move some air. I wish there was a switch on the PSU for this mode. Maybe even a tiny dip switch by the modular connectors.

For those wanting cable combs and nice clean cables, three things: 1) the cable sleeves are small at 2. 5mm. This will make most larger paracord combs useless. 2) the 24 pin cable is actually 27 cables to comb.

Additionally, some are smaller than the normal 2. 5mm cable width. 3) To have any chance of a clean 24 pin cable run, you will have to depin the connectors to rearrange cable routing. I think this is an oversight by corsair, but having sleeved cables included is enough of a bonus for me.

I did all of this on a SF450 Platinum’s cables (same set), so YMMV and tread carefully.

In term of soldering it function like any iron. The WEP70 soldering pencil is like any. The WE1010NA power unit function like any controller, but it is made from bad plastic or material. The power unit was giving off this nasty burnt smell.

I thought something was burnt, so I opened the power unit and removed all the removable parts. Then checked every component and discovered the smell was coming from the plastic covers. They were labelled ABS.

The smell was so bad that it made the whole office smell. I had to throw away the plastic covers. I took all electronic parts, transformer, triac, led, wires, switch,. etc and stuck them all in a aluminum box.

Now the bad smell is gone, and the WE1010NA works like any soldering iron. People will be returning or rejecting this unit of after the first usage.

I have been around Weller products all my life and I waited far too long to buy a Weller soldering station. This unit is everything and more. With the various easy to change tips, projects are easy to do.

When you want the station to be 439 degrees, it does it in a matter of seconds. If you want to bump it up to say 575 degrees, it does it in seconds. The point is that this unit does what you want and you can see in the easy to read to display that the temp has been met.

As you solder, the temp drops a little but within seconds, it is right back to the requested temp. I had bought a inexpensive soldering station and suffered through using it about three times. I returned it to the store and then bought this Weller soldering station of which I will have for years just like my father that has had his station for years as well.

You cannot go wrong with this soldering station as well as the prices and customer service of TEquipment. Thanks you and thumbs up all the way.

It is true that this soldering iron has more power than the WTCPT. But that comes at a very steep price. The WTCPT station has a STEEL reinforced soldering iron that will take the pressure when used to DE-solder components.

The WEP-70 has a 100% plastic handle. The slightest pressure will cause it to disintegrate in your hands. The WEP-70 can onlyl be used to solder new connections. Other than that, the actual soldering iron itself is useless.

If you need to modify a connection, or desolder a component, reach for you old WTCPT with the steel reinforced iron that you can LEAN on without fear that it will break.

I installed a pair of these T1 15 subs in my 4Runner, using the Rockford Fosgate Power 1500bd amp. I built a dual chamber ported box ro the recommended specs. I had to face the speakers and ports straight up at the roof which typically isnt as loud as pointing them to the back, but that was my only option.

It took up nearly all cargo space but it was rediculously loud. I honestly should have either purchased 2 of the 1500 watt amps or gone with the big boy 2500 watt version, but my little 130 amp alternater was taxed with just the 1500 and the matching 600 watt 4 channel.

Ive had a few different dual 12 boxes also, and while these 15s were easily the loudest, my set of JL Audio 12w6V3s and Memphis M6s did sound better musically. 15s just arent what you want for sound quality systems.

The only 2 sub setup that Ive owned that was considerably lounder was a pair of 12W7s I had in my Yukon running off 2 JL 1000/1 amps. Thats actually just about the loudest 2 12 setup Ive ever heard, but with about $4500.

00 in amps and subs it should be. Anyway, If I buy more Fosgate woofers in the future Ill go with the 13 T2 as Im just not too satisfied with the overal sound quality that 15s have. But I will say these are easily the best ones Ive ever had!.

This bad boy is rocking hard and its not even broke in yet. I have thos paired with an old style t115d2 and it sounds great. Cant go wrong with thos one. If you dont think it sounds earth shattering then its because your not powering it with the rockford t1500bdcp.

Over all sleek look and has bass for days.

The t1 is a great mix of accuracy and output. In a properly built enclosure these sound great and get loud. The power handling is very conservative and they can handle much more than rated power of you know how to set controls correctly.

Not the most spl oriented subs not the most sq oriented either but they are a great blend of both along with lots of great tech like fused voice coils that are a great safety feature.

I purchased a DeWalt DWE-315 oscillating tool in early May 2022 at Lowe’s. I didn’t use it until I began my kitchen remodel in late June early July 2022. When I opened the box I discovered it was missing the edge guide attachment.

I e-mailed DeWalt Service and asked them to send the attachment to my residence. In exchange for the part, they asked me to send them a copy of my cash register receipt as proof of purchase for the tool which I no longer had.

Enraged, I returned the tool to Lowe’s which honored my copy of my credit card statement showing the purchase in lieu of a receipt and they offered to give me another identical tool in exchange for the one I had.

After feeling like a thief with DeWalt, I asked Lowe’s to return my refund in cash because I had a bad taste in my mouth after dealing with DeWalt. I currently own numerous DeWalt tools but this situation has definitely given me cause to investigate other tools.

I ended up purchasing a Fein oscillating tool over the DeWalt. After using both tools, I can clearly state that the Fein tool way out performs the DeWalt and I’m glad the situation occurred.

I bought the DeWalt Brushless Oscillating Multi-Tool kit less than a year ago and absolutely love it! I use it everyday and is my go to problem solved. I am a contractor and my tools are money makers.

Unfortunately, three days ago my DeWalt Brushless Oscillating Multi-tool stopped working in mid use RIGHT AFTER I told the customer how reliable, tough and we’ll designed was. I was embarrassed when it just stopped working with my new customer watching.

I don’t know if he will be calling me back since he can question everything I say now. I told him that my DeWalt Brushless cordless powertools, (which is the only brand I use and I have a good amount of them), are the best you can get but he views the multi tool break right after, how can he believe anything I say?!?! I CANNOT go without my oscillating tool and was basically forced into purchasing another.

I speak highly of this product and would still recommend DeWalt tools to whoever asks or I see needs guidance in various stores. I have tried calling and got nowhere and I cannot go without it so I was forced to buy a new one (and with the stay at home order because of Covid-19, business has been incredibly slow which has limited my finances significantly).

The LED light comes on when I pull the trigger but the motor does not engage. I don’t know what to do from here but $149 right now is a big investment. I give it 3 stars for this reason.

I had a problem shortly after I bought the tool where it no longer would turn on. I assumed it was just a bad electrical connection. I sent it in to be repaired. and got it back and it worked great. Then at the 3 yr 2 month point it something broke internally.

The motor runs, but it does not vibrate/oscillate. I assume the shaft to the motor broke. but it could be anything in there. Unfortunately, it is past warranty. by 2 months. So very disappointed. Should I by another dewalt? I am very reluctant.

But I need an oscillating tool.

Great sounding speakers with huge presence. They’re easily able to go way beyond what desktop speakers need to be capable of. I guess part of the THX deal is the movie theater feeling the sub gives, always there, always over-emphasized.

If you find yourself with strange headaches while working and playing music, hit pause for a while and you might be able to see what I mean. The fronts are full range with phase plugs for pretty crystalline and lively highs.

The roll off between the fronts and the sub is interesting, as the “bass” knob is not a subwoofer control, it’s more like the “Tone” knob we used to have on our cheap boom boxes in the 80s. As you adjust the Bass knob, you are adjusting the satellites as well as the sub.

You can turn it all the way down for a pretty tame, wooden sound to try not to bother the neighbors. Thunderous and uncontrollable bass is available, there seems to be a point on the volume knob past 10 o’clock where these come alive.

I would definitely not recommend these guys if you had neighbors you can hear, since you’ll become the noisy one. You’ll find sub-bass all over songs where you’ve never heard it before. This thing needs a knob for the sub! I’m running these through a Sound Blaster Zx card via the optical output in an effort to try to tone down the bass, but that volume threshold on the right satellite is the only way I’ve found to be able to keep them tame enough not to bug everyone in the house.

I really thought about returning them for a little bit, but decided I’m keeping them for those times when I really want to crank it, because when you do, it grabs you by the face and shows you what loud really means.

They are not as sweet sounding or perfectly staged as the Bose Companion 5 set they are replacing, but with sound card adjustments, I’m able to customize the sound much more than I would with the USB connection of the Bose.

It’s like going from a Lincoln to a Shelby GT350, muscle car style speakers, so much power you’ll likely never use it, but having that headroom makes them fun.

I’ve been using these speakers for about a month now, and they still have a good sound. They replaced 25 year-old Creative Labs 2. 1 speakers, that didn’t have tweeters, so they should sound better. I use them primarily for gaming and now hear some high frequency sound effects I didn’t know were in the game.

I use a Sound Blaster Recon 3D sound card and I really like the optical input capability of these. The cords are long enough and the power, volume, and bass knobs on the right speaker are very handy, and have a good quality feel.

I wish the knobs had led indicators so I could see them in the dark, but I keep a small flashlight on my desk for that. When you plug headphones into the jack on the right speaker the speakers go silent, the sound is redirected to the headphones, and the volume knob then controls the headphone volume.

It doesn’t sound anywhere near as good as plugging the headphones directly into the headphone jack on the back of the sound card, because the sound card amplifies the signal with a DAC specifically designed for headphones, whereas when you use the one on the speaker you are listening to the signal tailored for speakers, so it’s quieter and less punchy.

Overall, very pleased and will likely keep these for the next 20 years. They also look good on the desk and, being dark gray, when I use low lighting, during game play, they are invisible.

It’s hard to believe this system can put out this much sound. The speakers are very clear, and the subwoofer really puts out some bass. It is funny to me how some reviewers expect to spend $200 and think the system should rock the entire house! If that was the case the product would always be sold out.

As far as I know to do that you need an A/V receiver with separately bought speakers and at least one subwoofer! Get real. You are looking at $1000 at least. The surround sound systems that come with speakers are nowhere near as good as adding bigger speakers to a separate receiver.

Anyway, for the price, I don’t see how you could complain. Switching inputs is a breeze. All you do is turn on the signal you want to use. The sound from only 3 speakers really gets the job done. Is it going to get really loud in a huge garage or living room? No.

But this is a computer speaker system. I am really surprised it’s as good as it is. It’s very good at home theater sound in a medium sized room. The Z623 is also very good but it doesn’t have an optical cable input.

You can get a digital to analog converter so you can use a TV or whatever you have with it too. I bought one and it was less than $20. The sound I am getting from my Z623 hooked to my TV with the converter is very good.

It sounds digital like the Z625. In my opinion Logitech makes the best computer speakers for the money. Happy shopping!.

It has an excellent warranty on the PSU. Gold rating provides me with peace of mind. Well built, with excellent connectivity. There are no negatives at this price point.

Great product for a first time build. Would of liked the option to remove the cords we didn’t need but it has worked great.

Easily installed into my desk top, huge fan keeps it cool. Cords were easily managed and installed easily. Power system is stable and powerful ( no issues powering all components) Would definitely recommend to anyone.

I’ve built at least a dozen PCs with Newegg over the past decade, and tbh this is the only product I can even recall that has died before it’s become obsolete. Most of the time I end up just tossing out or donating old (but working) components.

Maybe I’ve just been lucky after all, but I typically take negative reviews with a grain of salt and kinda assume that the people who say DOA or w/e really don’t know what they’re doing. Nonetheless, this PSU definitely died on me.

It’s worth mentioning that I usually skimp on PSUs and buy these budget Corsair models, but this is the first CX450M I’ve bought and it’s the first to disappoint. The 2 systems I’d built prior to this included the CX500M, but they recently discontinued the 500 and now they do 450 and 550.

FYI, my system is very lean and modest from a power consumption standpoint (hence the 450W). I’m using an i3-4370, a GTX 1060 (3GB version), and have absolutely ZERO peripheral components. Even my SSD is M.

2 onboard. I know it still uses power, but I’m just reiterating that there are literally NO other power cables inside my case other than ATX/mobo, CPU, and a single 6-pin PCI-E to my gtx 1060. In theory, 450W is more than enough for this system.

So that squashes that as being the problem. Anyway, about a week ago my PC just shut off mid-use, and then it started sputtering fans/LEDs as if it was a dying creature trying to muster the strength to keep breathing.

I turned everything off and unplugged all the power. I gave it overnight because I was too lazy to diagnose at the time. When I gave it another go the next day, my computer miraculously worked again.

for another 30 minutes, before it died and sputtered. I took a quick look inside my case to make sure everything was still seated correctly and plugged in, and it was. Logic began pointing at the PSU, so on an experienced hunch (without directly investigating it) I made the decision to invest in a higher power/efficiency(/quality?) PSU.

I ordered a 650W gold-plus certified that I just figured I’d pay a pretty penny for the peace of mind. I just swapped it in a few hours ago, and sure enough, when I removed the CX450M, I could actually see through the mesh grate that there was readily visible substance that appeared to be a hardened foam (I’m sure it leaked and dried) that was now engulfing much of the base components and several of the capacitors.

It looked more or less like when a battery explodes and leaks everywhere. Long story short, I’ve always had great luck with products from every manufacturer (including Corsair), but this product simply died after very short-term use despite being used responsibly within its suggested capacity.

As a result, I would not recommend this product. I know it’s tempting because it’s cheap and it’s “just” a PSU, but this PSU was very disappointing, even compared to the old CX500Ms, of which I still have 2 going strong after about a year of use.

Its a PSU, it is semi modular, as in that aside from the connections to the motherboard itself, the accessory cabling is plugged in to use, so you only use the cables you need. The modular cables are of the flat variety, so this could be a positive or a negative, depending what your view on the differing cable configurations out there are.

One word of advice, and this goes with ANY PSU that you install, please ensure you install the PSU with the cables supplied, do NOT be tempted to reuse the cables from your old PSU (going to the various drives and accessories) if this is a replacement.

Sadly there is no set “standard” for the PSU side of the cable, unlike the drive end. If you try and re-use the installed existing cables, and the pin-out doesn’t match on the PSU end (multi-meter can confirm if you really want to know) you could fry every component you connect to this.

Even if the cable actually fits into the PSU it does not mean they are compatible by any means. Some people have come to find this out the hard way, and have thankfully shared their experience for everyone to learn (I am glad I checked before install) Installation went as you would expect, it fit my case well, is the same dimensions as the 700w supply it was replacing.

I cannot attest to the longevity of this unit yet, but will try and remember to update this in the future, once it has some hours on it. Good price, good brand and an easy install. what more can you ask?.

I was looking forward to testing this modular power supply because I wanted to see how it would work in my mini-ITX build where cable management is a big issue. My video card requires only a 400 watt, power supply, and my SATA devices are all close enough together to work with the one provided SATA cable, so this power supply was a perfect fit.

I’ve tried stress testing it by playing resource hungry videos games and haven’t run into any problems. This power supply won’t work for every build though, so it’s important to do some research first.

Current generation video cards sip energy but some of the older cards required PSUs with much higher wattage. Also, I was fortunate that all my SATA devices are side-by-side so the provided cable does the job, but that wouldn’t have worked in my last, mid-tower build where there was too much distance between the optical drives and the SSD and HDD.

For the right computer though this is a great choice and easy to recommend. Test bed: Core i7 4771 with CRYORIG M9i Mini Tower Cooler, ASRock mini-ITX board, 16GB DDR3 1600 RAM, GTX 1060 GPU, 512GB Samsung EVO SSD, 250GB Samsung EVO SSD, 2TB Toshiba HDD, Corsair 450W PSU, Thermaltake Suppressor F Mini-ITX Case.

I had a few issues with my PSU, had a replacement sent but had the same issues with it. Keep in mind this is just a sample size of two so your mileage may vary. I bought this particular PSU brand/range simply because of the Silent Wing fan it uses as noise is a significant annoyance for me.

I planned on using the PSU for multiple builds in the future hence the 1000W rating. Almost as soon as I installed it in my system I had issues with the PSU producing a ticking/tapping sound similar to someone running their nail slowly down a ridged food can.

I also had issues with increased EMI (Electromagnetic Interference) for my sound card as well as coil whine for my mobo VRM (I’m not running a heavy OC, just 4. 7Ghz on a delidded LM i7-8700k with max running voltages of 1.

38V avg at 1. 29V). I am now using a separate PSU brand/model and the VRM coil whine has decreased a significant amount and the EMI picked up on my sound card has been removed. Concerning the coil whine, my CPU is installed into a Z390 board, a chip-set that after initial research apparently has heightened issues with coil whine.

The EMI that my sound card is picking up on is most likely coming from an RTX GPU in my system, which just as with the Z390 chipset seems to have heightened issues but with EMI rather than coil whine.

The PSU seemed to amplify these issues to a point where it was personally unbearable. My experience with the Be Quiet! support however was very pleasant. I first contacted them with a description of the PSU tapping noise and a sound file.

Within a few days I got my first reply wherein they informed me they had contacted Mighty Ape to organise a replacement unit to be sent to me. No running me around, just a quick response with a proper solution.

If you plan on buying this PSU with the intent of running a silence focused build then I would advise against it. I would only recommend this PSU based on my experience if you want a fully modular PSU with good price to performance ratio for a build that will have other noisy components (such as high RPM chassis fans).

I had purchased a be quiet! case and fan, so I figured that I’d stay 100% be quiet!. I am happy with my selection. Good assortment of cable are included. I did not need any additional cable despite having 5 SATA drives in my system and 2 case-powered fans.

This is for an ATX X570 MB. I don’t have a complex GPU card so this was plenty of power and seems to run cool given the efficiency rating and me not running it near 100% load. Running electronics hard and hot is the worst thing for them.

I ordered this to replace a newer model of Seasonic. My old Seasonic works great and is very quiet. However, the newer models have noisey fans, which is a deal breaker for me. I was looking for something with the same quality and a quiet fan.

I found this one and so far it has met my standards.

This chip is like a MAC truck. It isn’t the zippiest CPU, but it is zippy enough. Where it shines is in how much it can haul in compute-intensive tasks. Rendering, video editing, scientific computation.

the 2990WX cuts through tasks in hours that used to take days on my Intel i7. That alone is enough to earn it 4-stars. It would be 5 stars if this build wasn’t so difficult. AMD marketing loves to play the price/performance game, and the 2990WX is their flagship “look what I can do” cpu.

Nevermind that if you get into datacenter CPUs, more cores do exist out in the wild, but at a severe cost. The 2990WX simply marks the craziest thing that AMD is willing to market TO CONSUMERS. Would I put a 2990WX in my datacenter? Ehhhh.

I’d be kinda worried about that. AMD chips, in general, have not stood up constant beating in my experience. This is not to say that the Ryzen line is sub-par. but it is to say that we simply don’t know until Ryzen chips start getting old and dropping out of service, and I’m a little worried that AMD still hasn’t figured out long-term stability.

In fairness to the chip makers, it isn’t generally the chips that fail. its the motherboards. AMD builds run hot. The supporting chipsets are built with lower budgets and suffer quality problems. I opted to spend another $700 on water-cooling for the build in attempt to ensure stability, but after continuing to blue-screen regularly, I eventually figured out that underclocking the memory from 3200mhz to 2933mhz dramatically helped the situation.

You see, the motherboard might support 3200mhz ram, but the CPU only supports 2933. so I had to manually force the BIOS to treat the faster memory as slower RAM. But that wasn’t really the end of the problems.

The motherboards WIFI had problems, requiring a whole motherboard swap. I swapped the ASrock board for a Gigabyte board and my Cinebench scores dropped by 20% with stock settings, and the networking subsystem of the board was STILL flaky (must be a general X399 chipset problem).

Cinebench isn’t a very fair benchmark on the 2990WX because it literally only takes 9 seconds to run and doesn’t give the CPU a chance to reach peak thermals. But it is a popular test to run because most computers take several minutes to run the Cinebench.

and this CPU crushes it in seconds, literally inciting laughter in on-lookers. In summary. there’s a whole lot of awesome. Be prepared to do your homework and put up with some pain when you build a system out of a chip that very few people have real experience with.

Be willing to spend money to take care of it. I water cool my 2990WX not because I want to overclock it. but because I dropped a suitcase full of cash on the CPU along and want it to last a long time, stay cool, and I simply don’t trust AMD to last under stock conditions.

Must install AMD Ryzen Master software to enable Dynamic Local Mode if your workload isn’t using all 32 cores, even if you have no intention to overclock or customize any other settings. This puts your most active threads on the 16 cores that have direct memory access for best performance; Windows’ thread scheduler is NUMA aware, but doesn’t handle this processor’s architecture well.

FOLLOW-UP: This CPU continues to impress; using a math-heavy analysis application, which costs a LOT more than the computer system to run it, I had done a lot of testing with a Core i7-7700k prior to building the TR system.

Wanting to see which CPU architecture is better at running this workload, I re-ran the same sample file with 4 threads enabled same as on the i7. Result: i7 ran it in 263 seconds, TR took 218 seconds despite the i7’s clock speed advantage (to be clear, real analysis jobs in this software take many hours to a couple of days, I didn’t build the TR to save 45 seconds).

While I’m sure some of that is due to the small 8MB L3 cache on the i7, this suggests the TR was indeed the better choice vs. the Core i9-9980XE.

Fortunately I was within the 30 day in house NewEgg exchange warranty. To me they new there would be problems, so they applied ther 30 day exchange only! When spending this sort of money, thet should apply the Refund warranty also, but it seems every time I com up with this problem they cough up the 30 day exchange only!I made a request that I would purchase a new motherboard and memory if they woud set it up for me, which I would be happy to pay for, but of course no reply.

If I do not get a posative response in the testing and assembling, of the CPU, on Motherboard, with new RAM I will unfortunitly have to sell the proccesor. This has got to be my most expensive attemps of building an amazing machine, that I hoped would last for 2-5 years, depending What products become availability.

Come on Newegg, I have been purchasing for years, how about a little help, from one of your tech gurus? You know it’s the right thing to do. Sincerely requesting your help , that I will pay for! I spoke with Canada computers says they will set up the system including the 3 Samsung NVMe 970 PRO into raid, for between 75.

00 to a maximum $200. 00, is this really the route I have to go when I offer to purchase the balance of my equiptment? Sincerley, Kenneth N.

Little disappointed in the quality of the product. Lot of self tapping screws in things that need regular removal and installation. The sight glass plastic needs to be changed on a regular interval. I took out the self tapping screws in the gloves and sight glass and put in 10-24 rivet nuts with 5/8 stainless button head screws.

Makes the unit more robust and only cost about $10 dollars. Cords running on top of machine need to be cleaned up, in will be running 1/2 conduit, will look nicer and improve quality.

The quality of this blaster is exceptional! From the time I first see the crate and how it was packaged I was very impressed. It is obvious that attention has been given to every detail. It may seem expensive but this is such a nice machine (industrial quality) that it is actually a great value.

Thank You so much for doing business in an old fashioned way where the customer is important and there is pride taken in the product you build. Made in the USA and it shows!.

I recently purchased the 940 DLX Skatblast media blasting cabinet. It has been amazing. It’s nice when you purchase a tool with expectations and it exceeds them in every aspect. I have since purchased the additional flood light kit.

You’ll want it. The shadows from the one light defiantly make you wish you had better lighting. But that’s a simple fix. The media they ship with the cabinet works beautifully. Anything larger I feel would cut into the objects I’m blasting.

I would recommend staying with the same grit of media. Overall extremely happy and wouldn’t hesitate recommending friends to buy from TP Tools and skatblast products Mike L.