20 Best High Temp Exhaust Paint (2023 Updated)

Pleasantly suprised by this spray paint. It went on very well and easily. Dried to a terrific semi-gloss aluminum color. Paint was dry to the touch after about 20mins. I prepped the surface of the muffler I painted with a DA sander and 100grit and the first coat of this covered up all the sanding and left a great even coat.

I have not tested it yet at temperature, hopefully it stays on.

This stuff works as advertised. I coated my exhaust wrap almost three years ago and it’s still silver. I also painted an exhaust shield on my Honda and it stuck very well. Let it smoke a sec, then it cures and becomes very durable.

I bought another can for my latest project.

I was very impressed with how well the paint covers and sprayed. I painted my whole exaust and because it covers so well I had some left over and decided to paint my aluminum intake and water pump cuz they where stained pretty bad and I swear they look bran new this paint looks identical to a new edelbrock intake.

I was super happy I made my purchase.

I have used this on the heads of a Norton Commando motorcycle, and on the welded over rust on irreplaceable mufflers on another classic bike. It applies very well, and it has held up nicely. It cures by heat, and I’ve been very pleased with how it has held up.

It looks new after many miles on each bike. Great stuff.

Sprayed POR-15 on a set of exhaust manifolds and several 10 foot long radiant tube heater pipes. The 300 degree cure improved the sheen and expected durability. The product does continue to emit a post cure odor in use for an extended period.

The building with the radiant tube heater had to be offline for several weeks.

I used this paint to coat the header pipes on my Goldwing. They looked a little shabby. Very nice paint texture. Slightly creamy which made it very easy to control its application. Once applied, I let it dry for 24 hours then started the bike to cure the paint like the directions said.

There was a little off-gas and odor, but it went away after a few minutes. Not to bad. I would buy this again and can recommend this to anyone needing this type paint.

This product works, and looks good, if applied properly. The bad is that proper application is a royal pain. You must remove rust, lightly sand the old coat, and this paint though extremely close in color, does not match any of the Coleman stove original colors.

(It is closest to the new more recent stoves, but its not quite identical. ) To properly apply, spray on in two light coats, less than 10 minutes apart. Then let it flash (dry) and then set naturally for a day (24 hours).

You have to cure it. Not an optional step. To cure it ideally requires an oven, and during the cure process the paint out-gasses and gives off a black sooty smoke for a minute or two. You can instead cure (carefully) with either a blue drier, or a propane torch.

You need to gently heat the paint (and steel in the case of Coleman stove) frequently moving, slow but steady. It actually works better than the original paint, it is more burn resistant. But the difficulty in drying and curing the paint properly, means the application is a major under-taking of time, so this paint only gets a 4.

Someone needs to invent something that works as well, but is a involves far less time. This paint is more reasonable in price, but is still pricey for the green. The gloss clear can usually be obtainedfor less.

Purchased to update antique bronze fireplace doors. Went slow, light spray but still not consistent. Scratches and scuffs easy. Very disappointed after hours of masking glass and sanding. Next challenge is how to clear coat and seal this poor finish.

1. Applied 2 a clean substrate. Allowed 2 fully cure. Applied heat, color never changed, not even one blemish. Life of application so far, little over 2 years. Substrate is an exhaust manifold 4 a 1950 Willy’s Jeep, 134 4 cylinder.

Would like 2 c again, Ur sales permotion of a 25% increase in volume. It was just the right amount of extra product, 2 finish a perfect application. Thank U Rust-o-leum!👍.

This is the first time I have used a super high temp paint like this. Seems that the ratio of thinners to paint is way too high when compared to other high temp. paints I have used before. Even the thinnest of coats just runs.

After a lot of experimentation and half a tin of paint I found the Only way to get a reasonable finish was to get parts so hot that the thinners evaporated as soon as the paint touched it. And I mean way above normal spray booth temperatures.

Too hot to touch hot! Having found this method worked, 4-5 thin coats gave a reasonable finish and when the final baking process finishes the results were no too bad. Quality of paint so far seems very good but be prepared to spend a lot of time getting is good finish if it is going to be visible.

So I used this on all my cars and my friends cars. I ceramic coat the exhaust from the cats to the back of the tips. Climb up there from side to side and under and spray down the cats, mufflers,and pipes.

Do two coats. Let it sit about half hour. Turn on and idle for 10 minutes and turn uff let it cool down for 20 minutes. Repeat the process two more times. It will insulate your pipes and keep the heat in.

Prevent rust and give it a nice clean look. This has given me an extra mile per gallon which leads to 100s of dollars in savings in a years worth of time. Definitely recommend doing it.

My catalytic converter was stolen from my rv on an outing. only away from it 45 minutes down at the beach. with a parking lot full of people and vehicles everywhere IN BROAD DAYLIGHT! So the state police said by painting it with bright hi temp spray paint and engraving vin # or license plate # on it would deter theft, but wasn’t full proof.

It would be almost impossible to remove paint before they could sell it/ too time consuming and the buyers would be flagged that it was stolen. I spray painted all our vehicles cat converters also my sister’s car, The vehicle has to run vehicle for 10-15 minutes to adhere paint to metal now let’s see what happens.

The police said I couldn’t rig up machine guns under the rv nor could I electrify the under carriage. Guess plain old shooting them (if caught) won’t be allowed either. “Dang “. The paint is a bit spendy but if it works it’s less than $1200 a whack.

This is a really good paint for plastic. After curing I don’t see any issue of it coming off. My only issue is it’s not even close to matte black. Thought it would dry with a flatter finish but nope, nice and glossy.

Double checked the can just to make sure I got the right one. It will work, and it’s black, but was wanting the matte look. Can’t seem to add photos, sorry.

I love VHT products and use them a lot in my restorations. I even painted whole frames with the vht roll bar and chassis paint and it is awesome but VHT bombed out on this product. First of all it does not go on matte finish and it is watery like it’s almost a water-based paint.

I have used the vht roll bar and chassis on plastics and it works awesome so avoid this and just use the regular vht roll bar and chassis paint if you are going to paint plastic. Just apply three very light coats and make sure it does not go on too heavy and it works fantastic.

Avoid the vht plastic paint. I purchased two cans and return the unopened can.

The paint works great! I wanted to dress up my engine bay a bit and painting all the yellow caps silver was what I did. The paint stuck well and the finish looks amazing, but I am very surprised by how well it handled the heat.

My engine bay gets extremely hot with all the aftermarket mods and the 350hp tune, and combined with some of the hottest +114F temperatures the car has seen, I have noticed no failures such as bubbling or cracking with the paint.

The paint may be heat resistant, but it is not resistant to bumps and scrapes. Your painted engine parts will have chips missing and paint will flake off around bolt attachment sites. I used primer, paint and clear coat as directed and am not impressed by the durability of the paint.

Also exposure to any form of gasoline for even a few seconds will result in complete pain removal to the bare metal. Remember, despite what VHT recommends, you do not need primer if applying paint to cast iron parts (like the block and valve heads).

I sandblasted a rusty exhaust pipe from my ATV and then used both the VHT primer and top coat. The results look and perform fantastically so far. Cured by just running the engine as per the instructions.

It smoked off in progressing stages as the heat reached the muffler. It seems to be very durable. A very clean metal base is critical for good results.

Cast iron grey is a beautiful finish. Easy to shoot. Covers extremely well. Temps were cool so I thinned about 15%. Headers are not yet installed.

I bought a gallon to paint a large smoker I built. The fire box reaches very high temps. Used it yesterday. After 8-10 hrs. of high heat the paint on the firebox looks as good as the cook chamber. It does exactly what it claims !!.

I followed the recommendations fully. The paint went on very well with a 2. 0 tip. The end results look very professional. I have not however fired the engine up yet to see the true test. First impression is that it is a very good product.

This paint worked out great on my pipe and muffler on my Baja. Followed the heat cycle instructions and so far so good.

I had several of my expansion chambers Cercoated @ $125 each, however this paint is a much less expensive solution that I intend to use on the remainder of my pipes instead. This hi temp satin clear makes the pipes look every bit as good as the Cercoated pipes.

I’ve used so many different types of spray paints it ain’t funny, and I can say beyond the shadow of a doubt this stuff is some of the best there is! For use on engine covers and parts to amp trannys and beyond this stuff rules!.

Although I have yet to put it to the test of high temperature operation, coverage was great. I would have given 5 stars, but the nozzle really slobbered, and I ended up with as much paint on my hand as on the manifold.

Hope it performs as advertised.

Goes on nice and looks real good, just hope it really can take exhaust manifold temperatures as claimed.

Does NOT look like cast iron or the cast grey paint. It’s silver, plain and simple.

I didn’t know how to rate this, because I received the wrong product. They did not send the satin black even though that is the only reason I ordered online instead of picking up the regular black at Home Depot.

I’ve used it in the past and it works great, but this order was wrong. I didn’t realize it until I painted all of the pieces of my baseboard heaters with it. so I can’t even return them.

THIS PAINT IS NOT JUST FOR HIGH HEAT APPLICATIONS. AT LEAST THIS IS MY OPINION. I USED IT IN THE SPRAY FORM TO PAINT A WROUGHT IRON GATE AND THE FINISH STAYED FRESH AND DURABLE FOR MANY YEARS. MAKE SURE TO GET THE FORMULATION THAT DRIES TO A SATIN OR SEMI-GLOSS SHEEN.

MOST RECENTLY I SPRAY PAINTED BRAND NEW OUTDOOR LIGHTING FIXTURES BECAUSE, NOTORIOUSLY, THE BLACK FINISH ON OUTDOOR LIGHTING FIXTURES FADES WITH THE EXPOSURE TO THE ELEMENTS. I AM USING THE CAN OF PAINT TO PAINT THE INTERIOR OF MY FIREPLACE.

I used this paint to cover the non-contact parts of my new brake rotors so they wouldn’t rust. I previously used regular Rustoleum on my propr brakes, and when they would heat up you could smell the paint burning.

So far I have not had this issues with this type of paint. The only reason I knocked off a star, is because this compared to normal paint is VERY thin. It’s hard to get full coverage on a single coat, so instead of putting on two coats like I did prior, I had to put on 4 coats.

It easily scratched off too during installation, so I had to touch it up. I probably should have put on additional coats, but it’s good enough for now.

I am restoring a classic old Chevrolet sports car and needed a quality high temperature coating for the exhaust manifolds. Looking for a fair priced option, I chose the VHT Flameproof Coating in aerosol cans to paint the manifolds after sandblasting.

The application was easy and clean. I further oven heated the pieces as per the instructions and the finished product looks great. Though the project is not yet complete, I believe that the finish product will satisfy my needs to a great degree and will be very presentable.

Excellent results as long as you follow the directions. Make sure to follow the curing process. Paint softens up, especially during the first stage, so don’t handle if at all possible. Learned that the hard way.

End result looks amazing.

Color yellowed / ambered when I baked it on with the headers on the car following the VHT Instructions. Turned yellowish and not the cast iron color.

Used it on some headers, the paint didn’t flake or change colors, came out great. I didn’t use the clear coat as some people reported it turning yellow. The procedures I followed: (not exactly what the bottle said) I applied the VHT primer as it directed, except I used 4-5 light coats (instead of 2 lights and a thick).

I waited the recommended times between coats and the time recommended before spray painting. I also applied the paint in 5 light coats instead of 2 lights and 1 thick. The bottle isn’t clear as to what window you have before curing it, but from my research its fine if you prime + paint, and let sit for a few days before you begin curing (needed if curing on vehicle so that paint isn’t too soft).

What I did was prime and paint all on the same day, let cure for that remainder of the day and half of the next day in direct sun (so it got about 12 hours of direct sun in the high 80s ambient temp).

I didn’t have a good way to cure the headers off of the car so I did it on the car. I would not recommend using a heat gun to cure the parts as it will not pass enough heat through the headers to cure things evenly.

perhaps on smaller items it will be great. Installation and curing on vehicle: I wrapped the headers in plastic wrap to prevent scratching, oils, greases, filths from collecting on them. I then installed them, removed the wrapping and began curing by: -Turning engine on for 30 seconds and let sit for 5 minutes (repeated this about 4 times) -Turning engine on for 1 minute, let sit for 5 -2 minutes heat, 10 minute sit -I then worked my way up in the time I let the engine run, and the time I let it sit up to the 20 minutes idle and 20 minutes cooling.

-I stopped curing once the paint stopped giving off fumes If you are painting motorcycle exhaust tubes, it might be a good idea to follow the above curing procedures as from what I read, the paint is more prone to lifting/burning off/changing colors on motorcycles if you followed the procedures in the bottle, probably because the exhaust tube temp is brought up more quickly than on a car? UPDATE after 1 year of using: Paint is still holding on my cars headers, and I’ve just painted some exhaust tips for my motorcycle, followed the oven curing process instructions on the bottle, but did it on the grill.

Paint didn’t peel or anything.

Enough paint to fully paint a trailer hitch for a minivan with 2-3 coats. Spray action was as expected. Maybe slightly dissapointed in the 24 hr durability as it scuffed very easily when remounting the hitch but is on par with other spray paint Ive used.

Used same product line primer over fully wire brushed bare steel. #sweepstakes.

I first tried this product on some galvanized farm gates that I had to touch up for rust spots and general wear. My 1st worry was to match the old galvanized coloration. Well, I got lucky, the product was in a perfect match for the gates and now I’m going to do my entire windmill head with it.

I’s an outstanding product and a decent price. I would recommend it highly for galvanized touch ups!.

Im please and happy with my pleasure its a great paint spray and delivery plus price was great I will surely be getting another one. I already finished using it I received it last night when I got in from work and just used it not too long ago, so Im happy I recommend it to all.

Goes on in a really thin coat, and once baked in an over at 220-250 deg C sets really well. Dries quicker than the tinned version; but MUST be dry before baking! Otherwise will bubble; follow instructions on can.

Also use with the POR zinc primer, as this ensures a good surface for this to bind too. Where the part is too big to put in an over, a hot air blower can be used, but care must be taken not to overheat the material / product.

In Arizona 100 degree plus temps are a norm. Ive seen what other major companies call their high heat paint burn off from the sun. I wasimpressed with POR-15 easy applied paint grabs the metal and absorbs into the metal.

I will never buy any other product again. Ive been looking around for a long time and POR-15 sold me for life.

I love the paint and the color, I hate the nozzle. I shook the can for 5-7 minutes before I began to paint. I had to stop a dozen times to clean the nozzle. Please provide a better spray can nozzle. When the nozzle is clean the paint goes on really well.

I used this on my ’06 copper red Mazda Miata’s calipers cleaning and applying primer and am very pleased with the outcome. Expect better performance than VHT caliper paint.

paint is not capable of retaining color at half the rated temperature even. turned brown on second firing trying to cure it

Really easy to use and covers very well. If it really is an 800 deg paint it should be great.

nice finish , even coat

To expensive