20 Best Grease For Ball Joints And U Joints (2023 Updated)

If you have a grease gun without LockNLube, get LockNLube and you will wonder why you waited so long. My excuse is I never knew about LockNLube until I watched a video on greasing while looking for tips on airlocks in grease guns.

He said 1st thing you do is change the Coupler to LockNLube. Then I watched him easily put on LockNLube and then grease his tractor. Amazing, easy to attach, easy to remove from the tractor and no grease all over the tractor.

I used it on my tractor as soon as it arrived in the mail and Holy S*&t! it really worked! Half of the zerks on my tractor I couldn’t push hard enough to keep a good connection and had gobs of grease on my fitting and no grease going in.

This was a life saver, I will grease more now that it isn’t such a task. Only 1 fitting I can’t get to because of hoses in the way. I also have 1 zerk that seems clogged and will look into the LockNLube grease buster tool.

If you grease and don’t have LockNLube now, you really need it. Your life will be easier.

First off, it’s Permatex – premier supplier of automotive products for decades. This is good stuff. I have a 64 Buick. Had blue corrosion in one of the distributor towers and corelating spark plug wires.

The answer is dielectric grease to keep the moisture and crud out. Permatex was the first choice. Changed the distributor cap and the spark plug wires both greased up with dielectric grease along the seals.

This grease is second to none. Perfect for rc car truck gears etc. I prefer this over the white lithium. Lucas also make team associated diff and shock fluids, extremely consistent. Excellent product

I use this to lubricate the pins, lugs, locking block, trigger assembly and chokes on my high end trap guns. It doesn’t run under high temperatures and lubricates very well over extended periods of use staying clean throughout hundreds of rounds events so no worries with possible galling on contact surfaces.

Had a couple of problems with items becoming out of stock, but tredz were very helpful and generous it getting me sorted with what I needed and I wouldn’t hesitate to order from them again. It’s grease for your forks! Being a complete novice with bike maintanace beyond oiling a chain, I thought I’d give my 8 year old recon silver its first service.

Good fun and well worth it! Seating fresh wiper seals was a bit of a pain but uppers and lowers all came apart and back together easily enough, well dosed with butter and it’s a massive improvement!.

I have long since used Tri-Flow, great product! I like the fact that the bottle is small and not pressurized. I am able to control the pressure (by squeezing the bottle) dispensing only a few drops and not make a mess!.

Tri Flow is awsome stuff. Guy at the Hdwr store turned me onto it in the spray can. Spray Teflon. I like these little bottles, as I put a couple of drops on my vending machine locks and they turn very easily, lots of less wear and tear on the key and lock and my hand, wrist, elbow, arm.

Don’t seem to attract dust like oils do which is a problem in my locks. Might be the be lubricant I have ever found.

I was going to use this Brake Lubricant on my Toyota RAV4 slide pins. In fact I did. But, I am going to have to clean and replace it on 4 pins which have rubber near the tip. Apparently this lubicant CAN’T BE USED on RUBBER.

I have a rubber ring on TOYOTA RAV4 Brake Pins (Bottom pins) and this lubricant is not compatible (it makes the rubber swell and damages braking). I will have to use Sil-Glyde (Silicone Based) lubricant on those pins.

I also used this on the back of the pads, and on slide points which should be OK, based on what I have read. I’ll update the review if possible. Wish I had known that it can’t be used on rubber prior to use on the slide pins in a 2007 3rd Gen RAV 4.

I can’t seem to find any documentation stating this from PERMATEX (like the ingredients, etc), but, on various forums out there, SILICONE LUBE is recommended for TOYOTA RAV4 brakes. This is just what I have seen and experienced.

Trying to pass on this info.

This works really well for metal to metal contact. It eliminates brake noise and squeaks by minimizing friction and vibration. I put this on all metal to metal contact points on my brake jobs. This lube is necessary for ceramic brake systems since they operate at higher temperatures.

It will stay in place and won’t run at high temps where regular brake grease and even synthetic brake greases won’t. These is rated for temps from -50 F to 3000 F. Regular and synthetic brake greases are only rated to about 600 F.

For parts that have rubber, like sliding guide pins with rubber bushings and rubber boots, I use silicone based lube, silicone doesn’t degrade or swell the rubber parts.

Used to re-grease the bearings, hub, and backing plate for my 1973 Mustang drum brakes. High Temperature grease is always the way to go and Valvoline has a strong reputation for it. Bearings repacked smoothly and everything runs 100% smoother.

Over the decades we have had seven or eight Dishmasters and love them. Got the valve renewal kit for the one at our cottage because after twenty plus years it started to leak. Replaced the valve and it now works smoother than it did when it was new.

The unit we are using at home had a sticky diverter which was a bit unhandy when turning on the faucet with the brush pointed at the operator. After trying WD-40 (which did not work and then reading the on line help) we ordered the plumber’s silicone which worked great.

Love you guys.

Yes. it’s food grade and can be used in applications where potable water is involved. But in no way does it lubricate as well as standard, petroleum based, plumber’s grease. It’s more “sticky” than “greasy”, if that makes sense.

Using this stuff is better than using no lubricant; but the improvement in (faucet) usage is maybe. 25%. that of standard plumber’s grease. If potable water is NOT an issue, use the standard stuff.

It is a tiny tube, OTOH, you only need a tiny amount I accidentally got a little on the floor, and was sliding like on ice. I think a good product to have around for specialized applications. like lubrications near plastic or rubber.

I also anticipate using a small amount in bolts that I doam worried will freeze up.

Ive done several front end jobs with this now. Everything from 1ton ford cans to 4×4 trucks and 2wd expeditions. This tool is tough ! The 1ton van is a1994 Uhaul box truck with over 200k miles on it and the parts were really rusted in.

This tool took everything apart. I also bought to go with it a master adapter kit from HarborFreight tools that works perfectly with this tool. I actually use the pin adapter from HarborFreight in the otc clamp because I think the flat end adapter works better than the pointed one.

Dont loose the ball! Just take it out and put it in your box for later. This tool also works for brakes and u joints and pressing out control arm bushings. This is one of the best additions to my tool box.

I shopped around a lot for the right clamp and did not want a cheap aluminum one. This is American forged steel and is a big heavy tool that you dont have to worry about breaking. I always get nervous when I see bad reviews on a tool and I dont mind spending good money to get a tool if its really worth it.

What Ive discovered from buying thousands of dollars worth of stuff is that a lot of the bad reviews are written by people who really dont know how to use a tool properly, and or they expect a tool to be indestructible.

Im 50 years old and have been working on cars trucks airplanes and motorcycles, boats , construction equipment ect. Since I was 13. All tools can be broken. I have snap on, matco, proto, Cornwall, craftsmen, and a bunch of other brands.

Some are cheap like HarborFreight because for their use it doesnt matter. Other things like this clamp has to be the very best and thats exactly what I got , the best. I have no complaints with OTC tools to date and I have a bunch of their stuff.

Whether it’s sealing a motocross air filter to the airbox or using it as an actual lube, this stuff works great and never lets me down. Convenient package size. A Yammie buddy researched its formulation and discovered it’s aluminium-based (most greases are lithium-based) and is likely to be more waterproof than most.

Purchased this product for its dielectric properties which I needed to lubricate electromechanical stepper unit contact rivets in older pinball machines. After cleaning the rivets and then applying a very thin coat of this super lube to the contact rivet points, the stepper operation is smooth and the conductive properties are very solid.

I was in need of a proper lubricant to lubricate a plastic bushing that slides against a metal guide. Other greases containing mineral oils (like vasoline) are detrimental to plastic (will make them brittle over time), and greases and oils containing solid particles don’t work as well.

Most greases also attract dust and create a gunk that is scraped off the metal guides after little usage. This adheres well to both plastic and metal, doesn’t make the parts stick, offering little to no resistance to sliding.

Perfect!.

I have tried various things over the years to make silence on various hot water on/off handle units and have never found any that work for more than a short time. A few times I have even just bought a new faucet unit.

That is until I purchased this Super Lube Synthetic Grease. Ever since applying it the noise has not returned. If I had been keeping track of the time for each product used before this (which I haven’t) I am sure this product has out lasted all of them together.

And if it keeps working as I hope it will, I will have finally beat the hot water handle SQUEAK! Thank you.

Great Product! Super adhesion properties and saltwater-proof! Ideal prop-shaft lubricant. Many other uses too! Eliminate shift and throttle linkage bind. Lubricates Trim/Tab pivot points. Seriously reduce wear-causing metal-to-metal contact with this excellent product! The PTFE provides the barrier and saves you $$$ in repairs.

Your boat is worth the investment of buying this lubricant!.

This stuff is the best!!! I think there is no better personal lubricant on the market especially when combined with Swiss Navy or Wet Platinum Silicone Lubes. Elbow Grease is a MUST HAVE in your supply chest.

:).

After installing this cartridge into a (new) grease gun. I left it in the garage for 1 week while I was waiting on front end parts. When I went to use the grease gun. The grease had separated and was leaking oil like a sieve out of the bottom of the holding clip for the plunger.

This shouldn’t break down and separate until it hits 400deg per the specs. I had to use it because the clock was ticking Might take the remaining cartridge back Be careful !.

It doesnt smell! It has no negative qualities that are so prevalent of others, I could go on, but the best thing anyone could do is use it themselves. In my case I hated the smell of white lithium. Especially in an early Ford Mustang interior, the heat just magnified the problem.

This made driving the car unpleasant. I got the idea from Resto Garage on you tube, the host Mr. Ford, restores old autos. He just recommended it on a show. Im so glad I listened! In my car Im using it to grease window roll up mechanisms.

And they work like a dream. Thanks.

I bought this grease for repairing my Kidchenaid stand mixer professional plus 5. It was a refurbished one. After three months use the worm gear worn out. I couldn’t trust the design and the original grease anymore.

So I read a lot of review and wanted to try this grease. A couple of days before the machine failed, the mixer was getting hotter and hotter and then I could smell burning wire from the mixer vent and heard high pitch metal sound.

All these were telling me that the machine was going to die. After installed the new parts with this grease and used this mixer as the style before, the temperature of the housing is just a little bit higher than the room temperature.

It is much better than the mixer just came in my house. It has no more burning smell although the operation sound/noise is still loud. I hope this grease will stay long and protect the gearbox even better than the mixer standard.

Good price, seemed like a quality product I believe to be made in USA. I used it to lubricate ratchets ( Snap On and Craftsman) . The ratchets work smoothly now.

I decided to get this small container of silicone grease as I felt it would be good to have on hand. Eventually, I purchased a pen that would be great for eyedropper conversion and knew I needed some silicone grease.

I watched the videos and saw how to go about lubricating the threads. Once I had the pen (and grease) in my hands, I realized how LITTLE grease you really need to lubricate the threads. You really only need about the solid equivalent of about one [liquid] drop.

And once it is on the threads, it will last! So even if you choose to clean the pen and change the ink, you can still use the same grease that is on the threads (maybe with a little bit added but again, not much!).

Be careful not to get this stuff on clothing or furniture; it is hard enough to get off your hands. If you have latex or nitrile (my preference) exam gloves, use them for this job. Overall, you get a lot of grease in a handsome little case.

A staple tool if you are going to own fountain pens. 5 stars out of 5.

This stuff is awesome, just don’t use it in place of the thinner lubricant TWSBI ships with the Vac 700R. Although TWSBI calls their lubricant “silicone grease”, it is more of a liquid (it actually comes in a small dropper bottle, see photo comparison with Goulet grease).

I suppose the Vac 700R needs a really tight seal for its vacuum-filling magic to work. That may account for the lighter-weight lubrication TWSBI recommends. If you lubed your TWSBI with Goulet grease and got poor piston performance, clean it up and dribble on a bit of TWSBI’s lightweight lube.

I prefer the Goulet grease for everything else.