20 Best Glue For Vinyl Fabric (2023 Updated)

Versatile, Durable, Multi Purpose Adhesive! I use it mostly for plastics repair because it sets quickly, I can sit the part down and come back to it after it has cured. No holding for 30 minutes or clamping.

After curing, the excess adhesive sands off and I can buff out the repair to a shine. Repairs are virtually undetectable. I also left a repair soaking in dishwater for a few hours (I forgot it) and the pieces were unaffected.

Overall I give this product 5 Stars for plastic repairs. Locktite is a name I trust from years working with old cars.

Works well for re-soling shoes with rubber mat material. Bonds the two surfaces as if one. Just be sure you’re applying it to compatible materials. I tried to bond material to blue foam-board, and it immediately ate quarter-inch holes in the foam board.

Great for gluing vinyl to vinyl or rubber to rubber.

I first purchased this from Duluth 4 years ago. It’s the greatest stuff ever made. Men’s tears in canvas, leather, cotton gloves, & denim jeans can be repaired. Just make sure you put a piece of plastic in-between what you are mending otherwise you will join the 2 surfaces together.

Also note this bottle must be fully shaken only dispense what you can use at 1 time. Make sure you reseal the bottle because if air gets to it, it will render the whole bottle useless. I definitely recommend this.

I love this stuff. I used to hand stitch patches into jeans (4 little boys here!) and this is so much faster. My husband is a lineman and regularly gets little rips in his work jeans, too, and this is safe to use on his work clothes, also.

I can patch a pair of jeans with holey knees in just a few quick minutes, it is so great! My only complaint is that it sometimes dries in the bottle, even with the bottle closed properly, but that is a packaging flaw, not a problem with the product itself.

This stuff is amazing. I use it all the time from small fixes to large DIY projects – I make organic mattress using this to “sew” the seams of a fitted sheet, then I filled it with hemp hulls and to finish I simply glued the rest of the seam closed.

Good for making seams on items you could not sew on a machine. It does end up yellow and a bit messy looking so only for seams you do not care what they look like. VERY strong bond as long as the fabric is porous.

Works great bonding together 100% cotton.

I LOVE this product, Tear Mender has become my go to for fixing my husband’s jeans, work coats, and work truck seat covers, oh yea, and our wall tent! It works fast and holds forever. It does NOT dry clear but is yellow, so be careful where you decide to glue, or where it drips! Don’t let it drip across your project on the way to where you actually want to glue.

For all these projects I have found that it works best to place the patch on the inside, then place a small line of glue around the opening on the outside to glue it down to the patch. This makes it most inconspicuous.

I pour it on a plastic lid and then use a pencil tip to dip in the glue and apply it right where I want it. Please don’t ever stop making Tear Mender. When I found out about it I wondered why no one told me about it before, it is wonderful!.

So, this stuff smells kind of like pepsin; Think Pepto-Bismol or Lysol toilet bowl cleaner. I never really liked the smell, but it’s not terrible. When exposed to air, it dries within minutes, becoming a rubbery white, silicon texture.

The benefit is that you can hold something in place in real-time to have it set. The downside is you have to work quickly, or it’ll dry out. The stuff has a shelf life of about a year in the fridge if you reseal the bottle under the cap with plastic wrap between uses.

It can be used after that, but you’ll have to dig past a hardened plug to get to the liquid with varying success. I’ve used it for bonding fabric strips over inside boot seams (After sewing), and for that, it worked quite well.

I’ve also used it for attaching sweat bands to hats, and I would not recommend it for this, as I discovered a problem with uses like this. When constantly exposed to heat and moisture, the compound breaks down into a sticky goo that does not re-harden.

The sweatbands of the hats came off after long use, and what remained was a sticky goo that was impossible to remove from the felt. Even with the bands on, they slide out of place, and the goo smears everywhere and gets on the head.

Bish’s Tear Mender is a rubber cement that will glue anything where it can penetrate the fibers. I’m rough on work clothes. I tear them up all the time. I use it to mend blue jeans, shirts, jackets, gloves and boots.

It dries clear and will stand up to repeated machine washing’s. HOWEVER, the area glued will turn black when exposed to the heat of a clothes dryer. Even at that though, the bond still holds. It is recommended that the area to be glued be clean and free of grease etc.

, and that’s probably good advise, but I have glued gloves that were very dirty, greasy, and wet, and the bond still held. The glue tends to bead on the surface, so watch for run off, but it’s easy to spread with your finger(s), and when you’re done the dried glue on your finger(s) just rubs right off.

And the bond is instant. The second you press two parts together the item is ready for use. A word of caution. Take care not to get it on anything important to you. It does not come out. And, if you want to be able to use the entire volume of the bottle, since you will likely only use a small amount at a time, twist the cap closed and store the bottle up side down.

That way the glue exposed to the drying effect of air is at the now inverted bottom of the bottle, and when you up right the bottlethe glue just below the cap is still liquid. Even after several uses and then many months of storage in this manner the glue is just like a fresh bottle.

I definitely wouldn’t recommend this for better clothes, but for rough and tumble work clothes that get worn and torn, I’ve not found anything better.

DO NOT USE THIS PRODUCT!!! You have to go online to download the detailed safety sheet, which I did after feeling extremely ill/drowsy from ~5 minutes of careful use in a well-ventilated area. While the package says to use in a well-ventilated area and to contact poison control if ingested, the multi-page online safety sheet says to use a respirator while using the glue and that inhalation can be fatal.

FATAL. This is not in the fine print of the packaging! Neither is the fact that it can cause loss of fertility, birth defects, loss of an unborn child and cancer from prolonged usage. And for a product that is so toxic, you’d think they would find a way to keep it from spitting glue when you open it and oozing glue even when you’re not squeezing the tube.

There are a lot of other brands of fabric glue that are non-toxic. I tried the gorilla glue because I like their other, less-toxic products. But this product is NOT SAFE in the slightest.

Great price for flannel today. Many options to choose from. Making catnip toys to donate to shelters. It would be great if Joann’s tech folks worked a little harder. Web site and prices in store often are different.

Staff knows it too. Staff is great.

I bought this in hopes of fixing a pretty big tear in the top of my golf travel bag. I was skeptical since gluing fabric and having it actually bond well doesnt seem possible, but so far, Im very impressed! The repair came out looking better than Id hoped and it seems to be able to hold quite a bit of abuse.

Instructions are very easy and it dries pretty fast. The real test will be when I travel again but I think it will hold up just fine. Thanks Gorilla Glue!.

I have been trying to get things done on our car build for Pulmonary Fibrosis awareness just search facebook for (Project Breathless for Pulmonary Fibrosis awareness Torino) to see where your product will be used.

I would have to rate this product a 10 on a scale that 10 is outstanding product. It’s nice that you are able to apply the adhesive with the brush exactly where you need ,something you can’t do with spray adhesive.

Photos of Breathless, aka Project Breathless for Pulmonary Fibrosis awareness Torino. It’s rough trying to get this car back to where she was in these photos while dragging my oxygen tank around. Pulmonary Fibrosis really stinks.

I contracted Pulmonary Fibrosis from molds in the metal working oils that we used to protect the tooling on the job.

Used it on my Hobie i11S inflatable kayak to hold down my Scotty rod mounts (with flexible PVC pad). Works fantastic! The pads have never come up, not even at the edges. And they have been used under pretty extreme conditions (flex, water, heat).

I also used it to join some PVC sprinkler pipe as it was an emergency repair and I didn’t have any PVC pipe cement. Also worked great for that.

I have an in ground vinyl liner pool. At this point there are 6 holes in the liner and 2 of those are larger and in the corners where the bottom curves and meets the wall. I have used several adhesives over the years with the patch material being the leftover vinyl from the installation.

The adhesives last from 8 to 12 months or so and then the bond breaks down and the patches have to be redone. This happens because the adhesives are a glue rather than a solvent. HH-66 appears to be a solvent which actually makes the patch become part of the liner and has an extremely strong bond similar to using pvc pipe cement for pvc pipe connections.

Since I am a new user of this product I will need to see how long it lasts. I did a test using 2 pieces of pool liner vinyl and let it set for 24 hours. The bond was incredible and I couldn’t pull it apart no matter how hard I tried.

This obviously is a very encouraging sign. Since the blue imprint on the bottom of my pool has faded to white over the years I use the patches upside down so the white side faces up and matches the pool bottom.

When I applied the HH-66 to the blue side it dissolved the imprint which told me that this product is solvent based.

Great fabric glue. I had concerns it would be crunchy or scratchy but it’s hardly noticeable. If you know where the glue is you can feel it but it’s generally unnoticeable. It also lasted though a run in the washer.

Very flexible and invisible. I’m perfectly pleased ^_^.

This fabric fusion product has been recommended over the years. Though I did not use it for the project I was working on, I will utilize it for other projects in the future. And, I loved the 3-pack – good value!.

Used this to glue various pieces of costume jewelry to velvet in a frame. Much cleaner than hot melt glue. Let it sit over night and everything adhered perfectly.

Favorite fabric glue. This is a great glue to use if you are in a pinch I need to hear some thing in about 30 seconds it dries and is permanent. My favorite use for this is when I need to attach a zipper on my sewing projects and I tack it down with this glue first before sewing it over.

It keeps everything in place and makes it a lot easier. Honestly it’s such an easy glue to use but make sure the cap is always on because it is going to dry out.

I used this to glue different mosses and plant material together for a model landscape and it worked really well. The glue stayed wet for a little bit so I wasn’t sure if it was going to work – but it dried and is holding everything 100%.

Even after the model area was swept off with a leaf blower. I used this instead of a hot glue gun and I would recommend it.

Product is as advertised, and is strongest adhesive I’ve found, esp for dissimilar materials like canvas and naugahyde to sheet metal. I would like to know if there is a recommended application for larger areas where a brush is too small.

And definitely follow precautions with gloves, protective clothing, shields for the eyes, and especially for ventilation. Working outdoors still did not disburse fumes adequately and I suggest very strong fans to take ALL fumes away, lest one becomes used to the fumes after working with it for a while.

I’ve used HH-66 extensively for patching rafts as well as creating custom inflatables. Glue sets quickly and I’ve never had a patch leak using this glue.

Worked great! Used the HH-66 Vinyl Cement to patch an Inflatable Stand-Up Paddle (ISUP) Board. I also applied some to a D-ring attaching point that was pulling away from the ISUP and it also worked as advertised.

Works well and goes far. This was the second bottle I bought. Manufacturer recommends to use like contact cement. Thin layer on both surfaces, dry 30 seconds, then place. I also use it for filler. About 2 minute work time if thick bead type application.

Ready for use in under 1 hour. Very paint-able with water or oil base paints. If any thickness, it will get very stiff about the second day but never brittle. Only a very thin layer on cloth works well.

You will never know it is there. However I use it mostly for my model train layout. I used it to glue a lot of foam and it does not melt the Styrofoam. I can find no cons for this product. It’s water proof and shrinks only slightly as it dries.

It can also be used to make VERY thin, long clear thread like web and water effects. HIGHLY RECOMMENDED!! Get Some!.

Its good and all my creativities. Its most easy than hot glue. I like it. I recommend this glue. Yes. Its easy to use it. Thanks

Perfect and very easy to use. I glued a fringe to a curtain in 5 minutes, dries fast and clear. I tried other brands before from another web site but it did not work. But this one worked as magic. Thank you!.

Great! I bought this to use on my kids indoor bounce house as the cats nails had put little holes in its. I tried the provided patches but they just wouldnt stick. I found this and decided to give it a try and it worked! It’s as good as new and will last me alot longer than the little sticker patches the company provided!.

Too flexible, so much so that it didn’t actually glue anything together. The “glue” became a sticky, stringy goop between the two surfaces, that later had to be removed. This glue is a waste of time, instead use school glue for paper, hot glue for fabrics, wood glue for wood and super glue for everything else.

This adhesive works like a charm. I’ve made so many things from cake toppers to crocs. This adheres beautifully and I haven’t had any issues with rhinestones falling off. The only con is it does have a pretty strong smell.

This glue is amazing!! It’s really flexible once it’s dries. It’s white glue n drys clear. I found it great to use this glue instead of trying to sewing everything.

This stuff is awesome- first of all it fixed my daughters springtime dress- it dried clear and has already been through the wash 3 times with no breaks! Then I learned it can bond crystals to plastics and metals so I worked on my old coffee mug and took it from dull to Hello Sunshine! Oh and it is non-toxic!.

I bought this to glue together 2 tarps from Home Depot. I applied the glue as instructed, but the glue did not hold under any pressure. Nothing like the glue used to manufacture the tarp. The tarps are not labeled with what they are made of, so it is entirely possible they are not vinyl at all.

And this product is not suitable for gluing these tarp together. My point is that I tried it on both the blue and grey tarps that are commonly available, and it did not work. Maybe there is a tarp out there made out of vinyl that this stuff works on, but I never found it.

I purchased this to glue in a clear vinyl window for a convertible top. The product works well but you have to move quickly if the temps are 70 degrees F or higher. I like to apply the adhesive to both surfaces.

The brush leaves a little bit to be desired and depending on your application, you may want to get a throw-away brush from a craft store. Pour out the adhesive into another container and use that, reseal the original container quickly so it’s not exposed to air for too long otherwise it’s starts to set up.

From all the PVA glues out there, I use this one more than any other. It is THE best glue and can be watered down when using it papers and card stock! I use it on tissue paper as you can see in the 2nd picture to create textured backgrounds.

Mixed with wool (pink heart frame), it creates fabulous textures. In the brown/orange heart picture, add metallic sprays to it and you get a pitted technique. It hold tight anything you want to glue together, like in the last picture.

I’ve added various plastics, metal and cardboard things all in one picture.

Very tacky glue…i bought the big size because the price was good but with hindsight i would have purchased the smaller size…. Much easier to handle. Not easy to get very fine line of glue as you have to press really firmly so i cut the nozzle to get glue out quicker but have to spread out glue or you’ll get lumps showing through your bp.

Overall its good and sticks well!.

It certainly is a great product, and is my go-to glue for card-making and other crafts that require quick drying, and drying invisibly. However, the prices seem to have crept up a little of late. But, it will remain my favourite product.

We were suckered into believing that this product would be a great choice for styrofoam board- you know the light styrofoam stuff? Well, it doesn’t hold it beyond ~24 hours. And when that foam falls it will take out everything in around it.

It will destroy hundreds of dollars with of material as it crashes down- despite coasting both surfaces well and allowing hours of bonding time. We began by testing a 1’ area- actually did weight testing to ensure the bond would hold far beyond what we needed- yanking and pulling the sample with body weight that would never be put on this ceiling insulation and within 30 minutes of adhesion could lift the entire roof by t test piece- not some that that would ever be necessary!.

$100 worth of adhesive, $60 worth of styrofoam board, and hours of effort were not the only loss- it caved in and destroyed the roof if was attached to, and that caused breakages of everything around it- after lasting a whopping 27 hours.

Not to mention the absolute crushing of the desire to even continue with a project we’ve spent so much time and money on. A project we were building a family bond through as stepparent and stepchildren Building something new together from broken pieces of what was left behind… way to oversell your product and do so much more harm than just to a pocket book we carefully budgeted to ensure we could see this project through.

I only hope that we can prevent anyone else from using to for the specifically promised purpose so that they too do not suffer the loss we have.

I have been using this adhesive for over a decade and I can tell you that it works hand down. All the bad reviews are from people not knowing how to prep the surface or how to use the product. The ONLY solvent that should be used to prep the surface is alcohol (100%), not Brake Kleen et al.

They leave a residue behind and that residue most times will break down the adhesive not allowing it to stick. This adhesive is a contact cement and by design it will stick to itself. It will only do this when it is no longer wet but it is still sticky.

Once it has lost it’s sticky it’s not going to work well if at all. This stuff dries fast so if needing to use it on a large area it is best to spray as you go if possible. Wax paper is your friend. If you are working with a fabric or headliner you want to spray both the backing panel and the back of the fabric.

again small areas and spray more as you go. Lay wax paper on top of the backing panel once the adhesive is no longer wet but is still sticky, ten lay your fabric on top to position it. roll back the fabric and remove some of the wax paper and then roll it back down smoothing as you go.

Headliner material is tricky to work with because of the foam backing. The trick is a little adhesive goes a long way. Very very very light amount as it will soak right through. This is the same really for most fabrics.

DO NOT apply a lot of pressure when working with headliner material ad you will brush the foam and indents will be visible in the headliner. The spray does not come out as a liquid or a mist. It comes out of the can like a spider web or “silly string”.

This is how it is supposed to come out of the can to provide the most amount of coverage. The closer the nozzle is to the surface the more liquid it will be. I find that 2. 5 feet to 3. 0 feet away from the surface to be sprayed is ideal in most use cases.

When working with metals making the surface rough is not as important as making sure there are no oils on the metal. Most metals are coated with oil to prevent them from rusting. If applying over chrome it is recommended to hit the surface with some steel wool.

This is because most chromes have some kind of a surface coating on them like wax that MUST be removed. Alcohol breaks down oil so use a liberal amount, wipe the piece down 3-4 times and then let dry for at least 30 minutes before spraying.

Ventilation ventilation ventilation, I cannot stress that enough. A vapor mask is not enough if used in an area that is not well ventilated The VOC’s will bother your eyes. Do yourself a HUGE favor and always put down wax paper under the item you are spraying.

As another review states this stuff is almost impossible to get off. Goo Gone does work but requires mechanical help in the form of scrubbing to get it off. So if you value something don’t spray near it.

Tape off areas with blue painters tape and plastic if needed. This adhesive is no joke when used properly. you have exactly one time to stick things together so plan ahead and get it right the first time.

When working with vinyl put a super light coat on and do a “test” wrap to get some practice with the stretching. Once you know how it needs to be done then use new vinyl and spray for a final attachment.

Remember this is a contact cement so both pieces need to be sprayed and both pieces need to dry so they aren’t wet but they are still tacky. Depending on temperature and humidity that can be anywhere from 3 to 5 minutes.

you might have another 5 minutes until the adhesive is fully dried and will no longer adhere properly. So not a long amount of “working” time. The final results are only going to be as good as the prep that is done and the time taken to adhere the 2 pieces together.

Ive been using 3M Super77 for 20+ years, never even once had an issue. Used to permanently bond hundreds of different materials-and when i say permanently, i bloody mean it! Its is like contact adhesive and its never dissolved ANY foams for me.

NOTE- for best results use common sense and good practice, and read the entire label, but in addition, remember the 7 P’s: Proper Planning and Preparation Prevents a P*ss-Poor Performance! In a well ventilated area, prepare a temporary “spray zone”, covered by taped-down card or paper, around the items you expect to bond-this zone will catch any overspray, which is a hard to remove, and attracts dust over time, giving you a carpet-like area of black crud.

(acetone will get rid of this, but why waste time with cleanup, when a few moments of forethought will obviate this step) Shake well, yes shake it good! Check visually that the spray button orifice isnt obstructed by previously dried adhesive.

Dont be lazy, a blocked nozzle WILL spatter the spray pattern. If it needs cleaning, pop it into a cup of turps or other thinner and agitate or leave for a few minutes until the dried glue is loose enough to remove.

Make sure spray button is replaced in the can aligned with the dot on the upper rim. This ensures the aerosol inner tube is well within the cans inner contents, even when near empty, also preventing intermittent spray delivery (spattered uneven glue blobs).

Correct distance to ensure even coat, 8-10 inches. The emerging flat fan spray pattern can be rotated 90 degrees, it is not a conical spray shape as car paint cans are, but can be adjusted to match your spraying direction (are you spraying from left to right, or up to down).

Test your material on a scrap before applying glue to parts, to ascertain whether what your’e sticking requires one or both of the parts to be sprayed, and whether a double coat is required on each side (obviously waiting 3-5 mins between coats), some absorbent surfaces like leather need 2 thin coats on each mating face, and allowed to dry to touch before bringing them together.

Bear in mind that because Super77 is freaking strong, its always better to put slightly more than you think is required, as separating underglued items to add more glue is next to baeucoup difficile, once dried.