20 Best Glue For Pottery Repair (2023 Updated)

The first time I tried this glue was to put together two metal pieces for a necklace I was making. I needed something that would not get brittle and break apart over time as it happens with Krazy Glue I dont really like for anything anyway.

I was amazed as how cleanly the pieces stuck, it gave me time to reposition and clean the extra glue mess and the best part is that it dries up clear. From that day on, I have used it to fix anything and everything from the handle of my drying machine that got loose, to a wood trim in my kitchen cabinets that fell of, to my shoes, porcelain and ceramic figures, Etc.

I highly recommend this product. Every household should have one in their basic repair kit.

Priced great. I’ve used this around our house and a house I am remodeling. It sticks and stick really well. Just make sure both pieces are clean. I definitely recommend it for small projects that won’t be under to much stress.

This glue has many practical applications and can be applied to almost any clean surface. Works very well with wood and is unnoticeable at a glance. If youre careful it goes completely unseen. It has become more difficult to find in stores, but eBay never fails.

Cons: its relatively exactly expensive. You get your moneys worth though.

It held everything together was very strong and quick and neat.

I use this glue ALL the time. It is a great project glue. I’ve made small paper crafts and larger crafts using plastics, fabrics, and wood. It really does hold quickly. The tip is not very small so it can be very messy and hard to control at times and it has a very strong smell, but that doesn’t change how useful it is.

Perfect glue to any project. Used this glue quite a bit during Christmas while putting together my Christmas village. Was able to glue most types of items with no issues. It dries quick and holds very well.

The advertised picture is Quick Hold E-6000 but I received a beat up original version E-6000. If I wanted the original slow drying version I would have ordered it! Very disappointed and angry at the bait and switch.

This glue works better than any other type of glue product and I have tried quite a few. Had a piece of trim on the bed headboard that was loose. Tried at least four different glues before using Gorilla Glue.

None worked. The Gorilla Glue worked perfectly and quickly and is still holding solidly after more than a year. This product is fantastic. And you only need to use a little. Be careful not to get it on your skin.

Gorilla Super Glue Gel preforms perfectly! I glued two ceramic pieces together using only 3 drops since it recommends only 1 drop per square inch. I held the pieces together for 45 seconds and then waited 24 hours to test – held together without overflow glue running out.

Next project was a canvas print which had detached from the back. I was able to dot around the entire perimeter and put the back on before the first drops dried. Fast and done right! A week later it is holding great.

I actually go through a lot of glue/ super glue as I do a lot of crafting projects with super small pieces of wood/ paper/ wire. This has been a lifesaver when I need to glue something tiny, especially if it’s two different mediums.

A word to the wise – do everything you can not to get it on your hands or skin! It’s just so strong that it takes a few days to come off. I’d recommend to any crafters out there, as well as anyone that needs a super durable glue to put something back together.

It’s strong and tries very quickly.

Great product. Does what I need.

Do NOT buy if you expect General Purpose Putty like the image used shows. The product is also not called Multi-Purpose either as the listing says. If you order this, you will receive All Purpose. Very misleading and when reported, I was told the listings are usually all incorrect.

Why create listings if they have incorrect info? Also two of my packages were OPENED.

I used this product to patch a chip in my fiberglass tub surround. It was easy to mix & to apply. After letting it set up overnight I easily sanded to blend with the surrounding surfaces of the tub. The color is bush -gray when dried.

I would have preferred that it be white.

This substance is very difficult to work with. It does give a hard surface when dry, but is impossible to sand to a smooth, even surface.

I’m not sure what to say about Elmer’s glue – the paste used (and consumed) around the country if not the world. My first project with this particular bottle of glue was making a paper mache sculpture.

It makes a very good water to glue paper mache mix and I would no recommend another glue for that purpose. Things got interesting when I added an of brand bottle of glue into the mix as well. (Not so literally as mixing it into my paper mache business.

) But this was a practical display that showed me all the ways Elmer’s is superior to other brands. It mixes with water better, it is less runny, and it dries faster. It also just holds things together better.

It’s a good glue. It’s Elmer’s Glue.

The Elmer’s Glue-All Multi-Purpose Liquid Glue was purchased to complete two Halloween crafts which were purchased at the same time as the glue. On the craft packages there were no recommendations for what type/brand of glue to use.

The Elmer’s did not work at all. We applied a minimal amount, followed by a little more and even weighted the items we glued thinking once it dried it would adhere. It did not.

Elmer’s is my go to glue for all my wood based (paper, cardboard, balsa, etc. ) projects. It works flawlessly to bond these items with no harmful chemicals and cleans up easily. It stays liquid long enough to allow proper placement and smoothing while providing sufficient tackiness to prevent parts from moving during the drying process.

I just finished a model rocket and glider combination that performed better than expected. Way to go Elmer’s!.

I bought this superglue to bond a decorative metal for my lighter with no pressure on it at all. It worked for a week then the glued piece came off just like that. I thought may be is not good for metal and will use it in something else.

After a month I had a broken ceramic plate and I thought this will be the chance to use this monster. after preparing everything and cleaning broken pieces, I opened the bottle which was firmly closed from previous use, and for my surprise, the glue refused to come out from the bottle at all.

I noticed from the bottle that, glue became not liquid anymore. I’m going to purchase and try different product and will post my review after testing it.

Seems to hold as I am expecting to, however not exactly pleased with it was initially packaged. Seems like some product had previously leaked out and dried up.

I’ve used Gorilla Super Glue to repair old paperback books whose pages were falling out, and found it very effective and helpful for that purpose. But I’m especially grateful for its effectiveness in fastening over my doorway a mosquito net that had come loose: flying insects are a dreadful nuisance during warm weather, and the Gorilla glue holding my mosquito net has been immensely helpful in keeping them out of my apartment.

Following the directions and heeding the warnings on the label kept me safe and made the product work as advertised.

PC-7 is a thixotropic paste epoxy that is unusually versatile. I have been using PC-7 for many years in applications where high strength and resistance to cracking under vibration are mandatory. I have successfully bonded steel and aluminum to fiberglass, as well as aluminum to glass, and Alumilite to steel and aluminum.

This product is not inexpensive, but you will get your money’s worth if used correctly Cleanliness of the surfaces to be bonded is essential. Steel and Alumilite should be lightly profiled with Scotch-Brite or similar-just enough to assure a slightly rough surface.

Aluminum should be “dusted” with medium abrasive cloth to assure that no aluminum oxide is present in the bond area. Fiberglass should be likewise profiled with a medium abrasive to remove the resin glaze from the bond area.

After profiling, the bond surfaces should be thoroughly cleaned with acetone, MEK, lacquer thinner or similar to assure that no finger prints (or air tool oil) are present. Acetone can also be used to remove uncured epoxy from metal tools.

The ideal mix is exactly 50-50, but some latitude exists, up to ±20 percent variation is acceptable. Using more of the black component in proportion to the white component will produce a more flexible but lower strength joint.

Conversely, using more white than black will make for a harder cure, but at the expensive of vibration resistance. For most applications, I strongly recommend the 50-50 mixture, which will be a mdeium grey in appearance.

Be sure to mix very thoroughly. I mix PC-7 with a small metal spatula, using a heat lamp to soften the product. A temperature of 85 to 100 degrees F is ideal. At that temperature, the mixed epoxy will attain the consistency of peanut butter, and will be easy to apply.

As you apply PC-7, be generous-you can always sand or grind off the excess. If bonding metal to fiberglass or Alumilite, a series of small holes through the metal component’s bond area will dramatically increase the joint strength.

Avoid getting the expoxy on your skin, as it is somewhat difficult to remove. Curing epoxy is exothermic, so expect some temperature rise in the mated parts. Heat, of course, accelerates the cure, and is recommended if the ambient is less than 70 degrees F.

If heat is used to accelerate the cure PC-7 will be hard to the touch in about one hour. A cure to full strength may take several days, depending on temperature and humidty. Once cured, PC-7 can be drilled and tapped almost like metal, and sands very well.

I’ve used PC-7 as automobile body filler in cases where strength was needed.

I watched a video on you tube that was doing reviews on various epoxies and this one seem to be the most popular stuff and had the best results from other viewers. so i figured that many people cant be wrong.

Plan on buying some for this small leak in this plastic radiator on one of the work trucks.

This is not a food item so don’t eat it. It’s a high level adhesive. Don’t put it in your hair. Don’t put it on your skin and for the love of God and all that’s holy do not put it on your gramma. Other than that it’s a glue.

It works like a glue. Not a craft glue though. It’s definitely stronger than craft glue!.

It seems as if I have the hardest time getting the product to come out of the tube, and then once I do it ends up getting all over my hands and coating them with dried guck. It’s a bit hard to get enough product onto the thing I’m trying to fix, and even when I tried the brush version it ended up drying out very soon after I opened the package.

I keep buying it hoping that my experiences will eventually change, but isn’t that the definition of insanity? I must admit that if I am able to apply it to something, the product does work. It’s just hard getting to that point, if I do at all.

Are used this product on my bath tub. At 1st it was just clear looking stuff coming out of the tube and I thought I would have to throw it a way. After I squeezed O of the clear stuff out is when the thick white enamel stuff started coming out of the tube.

After I put it on the chipped spot on my tub. I went to Walmart and bought a 400/600 wet grid sponge from the auto mechanic section. I put the White porcelain repair kit on my tub and the next day I wet sanded it with the 400/600 wet grid sponge and it came out perfect.

The sanding sponge is the key.

works great repairing some chips in my bath tub, does take a couple coats, as it is rather thin. This is repair chip paint, NOT GLUE. You use this just for chip filler repair not to glue items together.

It is pure white so it works seamless in color with my porcelain tube.

We had two sinks with hairline (and a couple chips) cracks. One leaked and the other did not. Applied the product to the leaking sink as directed. Leaked stopped! Works as described. Easy, breezy. A $7 solution that saved a couple thousand $ (sink removal and replacement).

Longevity of the seal is unknown. A high probability that a reapplication would work, too.

The Mrs. needed her small wooden birdhouse re-glued, so I applied this and it worked well. You just have to ensure that you hold the glued pieces in place as instructed, so that they have time to “set up” while adhering.

Just be aware that while this initially goes on clear, the glue eventually dries to a slight white-opaque color, sort of like the old Elmers Glue. So if any of your glued areas will be exposed, you will see this.

For instance, some of the glue squeezed out at the joints of the birdhouse, and so now we see the glue. I used the glue liberally, which is fine for this little birdhouse. But if you don’t want to see any of this glue afterwards, then you will need to use it minimally so that you do not have a lot of excess that might show up when it dries.

But it has so far held up well, and seemed to set fairly quickly. I would recommend this Gorilla glue. 👍.

I attempted to use this on plastic pieces with no luck. The bond was poor and the expansion of the glue was amazingly disappointing. I should have read the back of the package in detail, I guess, but who would have thought the glue would turn into a bubbly foam when exposed to air.

Not the right product for me. It was a waste of about $7 for me.

In the pen size container it’s less expensive, easier to handle, easier to apply, less wasteful and less apt to dry up before you need to use it again. It’s strong enough to hold what I’ve needed put together and it has connected things their competitors couldn’t.

I bought this to attemp a repair of my eyeglasses. The spring in frame broke loose and regular glue was just not holding. The gorilla glue did a good job securing the frame back onto the spring. It has been a week since repair and so far glue is holding up.

Only downside was I had to purchase two to get home delivery. Hopefully I will find other uses. Would also caution to use something to press glued area with as this stuff is hard on the skin! I googled and found acetone was the thing to use and fortunately I had some on hand and was able to get off my fingers.

Lesson learned and I will know better how to use on my next repair!.