20 Best Glue For Car Emblems (2023 Updated)

I have used this 3M Super Weatherstrip Adhesive for quite a few years in a number of applications. Most recently, I used it to patch together the headlight assembly on my Ford F150 following a collision with a deer.

Due to it’s adhesive strength, durability and weather resistance, it will enable the legal operation of my personal vehicle until the scheduled repair several months from now. Based on past experience, I expect the adhesive will hold up well even during the winter months between now and the body shop appointment.

I use 3M Super Weatherstrip Adhesive in many ways. Sticking gaskets in place when assembling an engine, Attaching magnets to the back of a note-pad to put a shopping list on my refrigerator. Sometimes I put a little Super Weatherstrip Adhesive on a screwdriver tip, to keep a screw on it while I start the screw in a hard to get place.

I even use it to make improvised books of computer motherboard manuals when I’m building a new computer. ( I print the pdf, then stack all the pages neatly and put a little weight on them, then evenly apply Super Weatherstrip Adhesive to the left edge of the stack of pages, to act as a binding.

) Note: I hang the edge of the “book” that I’m gluing, over the edge of a counter so the glue doesn’t get on the counter-top.

Amazing stuff: Bought this adhesive to attempt to repair a damaged window seal (small split in two places and a very small hole). With some care and preparation (cleaning & roughening the edges), the product worked wonderfully.

As it’s a similar material to the seal, I’ve been able to carefully rub it back with 800 grit emery paper, for a smooth finish. Wonderful stuff. The only negative is I wish you could buy a smaller tube but for 20, it’s far less than the cost of replacing the seal – which in this instance would mean stripping the door!!.

This 08115 will bond just about anything together, great for metals, plastics, wood, and about anything you want to bond. Best to allow it to dry overnight, however once applied, if the product is out in the direct sunlight, it will harden to usable strength in about 4 to 5 hours.

Great stuff. relative to automotive repair, I have put on roof panels, bedside panels on pick up trucks, and “continuous bond” is stronger than spot welds, and also there is no bare metal in between panels like when a panel is spot or plug welded in place.

I have used it to fill pinholes in metal after sandblasting and there was rust-through. This product is not like body filler that will pop out with rust again.

I have a Husky chainsaw that the fuel tank seam leaked. I came across a chain website and one guy swore on this product so it is a bit pricey but I bought some. I use a dowel to squeeze out the two tunes and mixed manually, applied to the seam giving it a day to harden.

I am a fixer ( perhaps a maker by current standards) all my life and used a lot of products to effect repairs. I can say without doubt this is the best bonding agent I have ever used. If you prep the bonded areas this is not coming apart.

ever! So if your on the fence, jump down and use this you will not regret it. I decided to buy the way over priced applicator gun just for ease of use. Call this JB weld on steriods.

This stuff is an old car owner’s best kept secret! I have a 95 Eclipse that I love dearly, but the sideskirts staying up are a known devil of a problem. Even after buying oem everything and reapplying all the fasteners, they still fell after a year, they just snap off.

So after some digging on the forums, someone suggested this, and I had to give it a go. I will warn, the application gun needed is just as expensive, so borrow one if you can, like I did from a local shop.

But this is the end solution to trim pieces that just refuse to be held in by retainers alone. Something I will always keep in my tool box from now on!.

With the nicer weather finally upon us, my husband and I have been fixing up things around the yard that were ruined due to the recent winds and harsh winter. Two of our beloved bird houses that we leave up for the lingering birds and squirrels was hit recently by a tree limb falling, and needed to be fixed.

I didn’t want to throw the bird houses, and saw that they just needed to be glued together as 2 of the walls were knocked loose. I reached for my bottle of Weldwood original wood glue, and in no time at all the bird houses were good as new.

I liked using this wood glue as it doesn’t have a strong odor like some other wood glues on the market. Plus, it is sandable and you are able to paint over it once dry. And, if that wasn’t enough, it set the walls in no time at all, with a strong and tight bond.

Now, I am looking for things to fix or glue together just to use this amazing wood glue. I highly recommend this product for any of your handyman jobs that require a high strength bond.

This adhesive impressed me. It is almost like superglue. It sets up very fast compared to other woodworking products which usually have to be clamped overnight. It also works on other surfaces which is great, I don’t like having all sorts of different material specific adhesive on my shelf collecting dust because I only needed it for one small application.

The bond is nice and solid and it gives you 3 minutes to reposition which is nice, but at the same time it can work against you. so make sure you are ready. I will definitely be buying more of this when the time comes as it is a great alternative to what I normally use.

I look forward to telling my friends and family all about this and recommending they give it a try!.

When it comes to automotive tape, there is no better than 3M! Its super adhesive and somewhat difficult to remove but not impossible but that’s what you want in this type tape! The only negative, in my opinion, is the protective red material that covers the adhesive side of the tape is very hard to remove! Once you can pull up a corner of the protective red tape from the adhesive the rest pulls off fairly easily! I would highly recommend using the 3m Adhesion Promotor along with the 3m tape as it makes the adhesive stick in almost any kind of weather condition, cold or hot!.

My Cavalier’s car molding has been peeling from the car for a couple of years. The rear doors started first, and when they got about half off, I removed them by hand. When the front door’s molding started peeling, I found this product.

The molding had about a 60° bend in them. Half was still attached to the car, but half was flapping in the breeze. The sun had helped shape the molding, not straight. I was concerned about the adhesiveness of this product being able to straighten the molding.

After cutting this molding tape to approximately what was hanging off the car, it was a little tricky to get the old caulk removed and this tape installed. But after doing the best I could, I pushed the molding against the car door firmly.

I remembered what 3-M said about their adhesive coat-hooks (press firmly for 60+ seconds), so I took that and did the same for the molding. I pressed it for three minutes, and cautiously released my pressure.

Well, three weeks later, and both front door moldings are still adhering in place. Multiple rain storms, and freezing temperatures too. So far, so good. I will update if the molding begins to release.

I’ve used many types of glues in my lifetime. “Crazy glue”, “Gorilla glue”, and an innemerable legion of other generic brands and variants. But I can wholeheartedly say from direct experience that it doesn’t get any better than JB Weld’s products.

Even many other dual-chemical epoxy-based (hardener + resin) brands cannot hold up to JB Weld. I can also vouch for the efficacy of this JB Weld “Kwik” version. Yes, it does set faster, and also cures faster (in roughly half the time, compared to the original formula).

But its resulting tensil strength and long-term durability doesn’t seem to be all that much compromised in exchange for this faster variety. I have recently used JB Weld “Kwik” on repairing a handful of vintage telephoto lenses which are quite heavy in their all-metal and glass construction.

One of these lenses that I repaired was completely split in half (due to the lens being dropped onto concrete from a good distance). In just 6 hours of using “Kwik”, the lens looks and performs as if no damage has ever been done to it! The two previously-severed ends of the heavy-gauge metal tube of the lens (made of brass) which were joined together are COMPLETELY fused, as if returning the lens to its single-body construction! This “cold-weld” glue is the real deal, because the repair looks and behaves AS IF the metal ends were actually welded together! No “Super glue” or “Gorilla glue” can do that! Not even close!.

Thank you, JB Weld, for your unrivaled products! When I require reliable repair of extremely heavy severed parts (short of firing up an actual arc welder), I will continue to turn to you for my work.

Disclosure: I am not affiliated with JB Weld or any of its subsidiaries and partners. Thus, this is an honest-to-goodness GENUINE review from a hard-working repair man.

A new Warner clutch for a Hayter 56 costs about 190. John Deere sell half of the clutch (with the friction material) for 90. This cost 19 plus 6 for some JB Weld epoxy. A 5 minute repair with This cheaper option is every bit as good as replacing the full clutch and is much easier.

You only need to undo the bolt in the middle of the blade. You dont even have to remove the blade first. This is highly recommended. You might need an impact driver to remove the 8mm Allen bolt. If the bearing has gone, replace with a Nachi Quest 6205-2NSE9 which should cost around 8 at the same time as replacing the clutch plate.

Remember to clean up and fully remove the old clutch plate before installing the new one. Thanks for a great product at a sensible price.

What some people may not know is that the JB Kwik weld does not get as hard, or hold as good as the standard JB Weld. This is ok, that it what making it quick does to it. I had a long conversation with JB Weld support to learn this.

The slow cure JB Weld will make a stronger bond, so if you can wait a day or two, or three, regular JB Weld is what you want. I use the JB quick to hold parts in place, an hold plastic cases closed. For that it works well.

if you want to remove it way after it gets hard, it can be scraped and poked to get it off. Don’t try that with regular JB Weld though, it gets much harder over time. This is about knowing how to use each product so you use the right one.

Also, pay close attention to the ratio of 1:1, getting too much, or little of either will alter something. Too little hardener will slow down the cure, but in a big way, too much will speed it up in a bad way.

So get it right for the best results.

Well, so far so good. However, we will have to see how it holds over time. Just got done with a rust fixing project on my car. I had to fabricate 5-6 metal patch panels to fix the holes. I was going to use seam sealer and rivets, but then I found this product and thought it would do a better job.

I watched some videos on how to use and some ideas beyond just an adhesive function. I ended up using it as a filler and sealer on areas around the patch panel, and to smooth out the transition between panels.

I used the nozzles, and I pumped it out onto cardboard for applications that needed an “icing” layer to adhere. Probably saved me some time and likely will provide a better seal than using rivets. Also, I chose this model because of the 1/4/24 hour work/clamp/cure time.

I looked at other brands that had all the way down to a 7 minute work time. as well as the 3M 08116 which has a 1. 5hr work time. Glad I did not go with the quick one. The 1hr work time gives you plenty of time to get things right, and tackle several areas in one session.

Anyway, I only gave it 4 stats because it is just so expensive, and you HAVE to use the 3M applicator, which is also expensive.

Used to glue a Corvette C3 door skin where the seam had come loose due to worn door hinge bushings and pins allowing the door to strike the body when closing. The product appears to be very similar to JB Weld.

The gun mixes the epoxy and hardner automatically in the nozzle as it is applied allowing it to be directly inserted into the bonding area. Appears to be stronger with less fumes than JB or other epoxies and completely seals areas from moisture.

Can grind,sand and paint if needed. Downside is slightly costly but if you purchased same amount of JB Weld it would be about the same. Also nozzles are a one time use and are left on when finished for storage to use the epoxy again.

Unknown if long term storage will affect the compounds in the tubes as the chemical reaction may slowly work its way back. Extra nozzles may be ordered if needed at about $2 apiece.

I have not been able to use the panel bond yet, but I am getting the panels ready to be bonded. The panel bond looks good and I think that it will work great.

after using this thuff once I never screw in a bolt without it. it basically is like adhesive to keep your bolt in place. make sure you apply it to a clean surface of the bottom threads of bolt. just a dab is all you need, then spread it all the way around the bottom of bolt.

I use it for automotive purposes. the product wont let the bolt loosen itself by vibrations or fluids to leak out or rust. I 100% have to have this stuff on every bolt I am working with now.

I used the Permatex Medium Strength Thread Locker on bolts for my cargo rack to ensure they won’t vibrate out of placement. A month later of daily use of my cargo rack and everything is holding firmly with not a sign nor sound of anything loose.

The product was easy to use and goes a long way.

Loctite Blue was the perfect solution for this repair. The previous owner tried to repair the car’s crankshaft timing sprocket large bolt that worked its way loose. But I guess the car sat for a while in the rain and when he torqued the bolt, it was rusty inside the crankshaft and the bolt broke off inside.

That’s when he decided to sell the car to me. After drilling through the broken bolt piece inside and drenching it with pb blaster, it still would not budge using an easy out, tapping with a hammer and trying to turn with a ratchet wrench.

After about a week of trying, it finally came out. The threads were rusted to the bolt. I used Loctite Blue threadlocker after cleaning it thoroughly to keep it from rusting again and to hold the bolt tight against the timing sprocket.

The perfect solution and at lower cost than the parts stores. Free shipping to Walmart, just went by and picked it up.