Best Epg Source For Iptv (2024 Updated)

I’ll completely admit that I’m a beginner at soldering and the instructions are very simple to follow. I bought most of my kit through PiHut including the “Third Arm” holder which I found invaluable when assembling it.

Gives you confidence to move on to larger soldering projects. As for the finished product itself, it is quite fun to use. I’ve used it a variety of EU TVs (Sony, Panasonic, LG etc) and they’ve all turned off within a second.

I doubt I’m allowed back in that store though, not for a moment that I’m suggesting you do this, but this was the acid test for me. Good value for money and the experience it gives you if you’re new to soldering is invaluable.

It’s an awesome product. Received it in a less than week, support team helped with all of the questions and I got all of the parts, as described. Assembly and soldering job didn’t take too much, approximately 20 minutes.

And well, it works properly and is something, you will have a lot of fun with, thank you! I recommend it to others, especially to those, who are starting with soldering, just make sure you have a good soldering iron.

Best regards, Ben.

Brilliant little kit – just needs its own enclosure that includes batteries and the board. Bit of a giveaway when you’re turning the telly off in pubs and you’ve got circuitry visible…

wrong product for the comcast xfinity cable dta . It’s a univesal remote that doesn’t work with the comcast adapter box.

New Remote works just fine. I was like a fish outta water. I had to change channels manually that sucks. Thanks

When remote loses its button functions. This new one brought them all back again…WORKS Very Well

I got this for my son, who had an Xbox and does not have cable connected in him room but still wants to watch regular tv. Installation was a breeze, about 5 minutes, and the tuner comes with an antenna.

However, the distance the antenna can reach is only 10 miles which didn’t leave him with a lot of channels. However, I like the fact that the item came with an antenna which gave him an idea of the quality of viewing (High Definition) and the features it comes with such as live tv, pause and rewind or fast forward on paused tv shows.

There’s is also a guide which tell you the shows and the times. The Xbox itself has an app that allows for purchasing favorites channels not reached by any antenna and it’s still cheaper than regular cable.

Overall, very happy and most of all I am saving a lot of money while not complaining compromising quality.

I don’t watch much live TV at all, but every once in a while there’s something I would like to see, like the Olympics, etc. This, combined with a cheap antenna like the Leaf Metro ($12, also on eBay) is a great way to get basic TV channels like ABC, NBC, FOX and CBS in full, uncompressed HD for a single investment.

In my case, less than $50 all-in, and I never have to see a cable or satellite bill again. It works beautifully with native Xbox One functionality like OneGuide, voice control, trending and favorites.

Plus you can pause live TV. TLDR: Inexpensive, high quality option for people who don’t watch much TV to get the basic OTA networks for your Xbox One. Highly recommended.

I bought this for use with an Enigma 2 (Linux) based satellite receiver, not an XBox. This is the same as the Hauppauge 955Q, same drivers, but less expensive because it doesn’t have the video capture cable included.

For my purpose it is plug and play. The easiest ATSC tuner install I ever did. Comes with a 12″ USB extension cable for very flexible installation. Very good quality cable too. Very fast tuner.

ISP: Spectrum w 1Gbps down, 40Mbps up Tested in 800sqft apartment (2b with living room into between- main and one node about 30’ apart, 3rd node about 10’ after that, all have direct line of sight to each other.

Likely getting interference from other apartment units) Wired connection speed (typical windows desktop): 850Mbps Wireless (using 14” 2021 MacBook Pro): Same room as master: 420Mbps down, 31Mbps up, 17ms ping 1 room away (about 10’ from mesh node): 320Mbps down, 30Mbps up, 17ms ping 2 rooms away (about 10’ from mesh node): 210Mbps down, 28 Mbps up, 20ms ping Wireless on other devices: Xbox Series X (in living room, about 20’ from master node, right below 70” TV): 158Mbps down, 40Mbps up, 29ms Playstation 5 (in living room, about 20’ from master node, right below 70” TV): 80Mbps down (tested multiple times to be sure), 28.

5Mbps up, ??ms ping Apple TV 4K (2020) (in living room, about 20’ from master node, right below 70” TV): 201Mbps down, 36Mbps upload, 23ms Notes: – WiFi signal will randomly drop from time to time on all devices.

Likely this is due to devices unsuccessfully moving between mesh nodes despite being stationary… had the same issue with Google WiFi. – Has web UI at master node’s IP address, but interface there can do next to nothing.

Like Eero, everything has to be done through the app, and the app is less than intuitive, and quite ugly. You have to go 3 menus deep to even see IP addresses. Conclusion: I’ve tested nearly every WiFi mesh on the market in this apartment, and they all perform comparably.

I think interference from other people’s WiFi networks is to blame, since there are nearly 20 other WiFi networks in the same building clearly visible to all my devices, though I really expected this to outperform my Orbi RBK20 Wifi 5 routers that I’ve now been through 3 other routers trying to replace (all at twice the price, even on sale).

However, Deco and Google are the only ones to have the issue where connection will drop due to confusion around which mesh node to connect to, and frankly, WiFi needs to be more stable than that. I can’t be running a 2 day long database transfer job and just lose connection whenever, nor do I want to get kicked out of games, dropped from Zoom calls, or just generally annoyed by sudden lack of internet.

If other brands are comparable in performance, I really can’t overlook this. Lastly, the lack of web interface administration, when combine with a very mediocre app, this will drive tech enthusiasts nuts.

I’ve become a bit spoiled by Netgear Orbi’s app, but where TP Link is also a real network hardware company, I really expected better. Planning to return this when I have time. tips: – If you get a consistent 90-100Mbps on ethernet (wire), then the wire is bad.

If the wire is damaged, most computers will cap the speed at 100Mbps to prevent issues. – Mirrors, metal structures, large electronics, and large quantities of water (including human bodies) will interfere with WiFi, so try to set up nodes a few feet from such things, and if you imagine a line between the WiFi mesh nodes, don’t put any of these things in that line.

– Other WiFi networks overlapping with yours will cause interference. Your WiFi will attempt to use a different channel to avoid this, but there are a very finite number of them. This is a huge issue in apartments.

– Most devices do not yet have WiFi 6 cards. The only ones I own that do are M1 Mac products, and the PS5.

I got this router “system” to replace an older router that died on me. My old router was located in the center of the house and provided good coverage throughout, but I saw that this mesh system was on sale and I thought that this would help extend coverage in the areas outside the home by locating the meshed APs on the outside walls near the patio and deck.

Setting up the system once I downloaded the app was extremely easy, much easier than any router I have previously owned. In my opinion, the app is the best feature of they system and makes every aspect of the setup and management of the network much simpler than previous apps and browser interfaces I have used.

Managing devices on the network and particularly things like WEP setup are much easier to handle through the app than my old router’s interface. The individual devices are much smaller and much less obtrusive visually than my old router and easy to work into the room.

Functionally, the “main” router connected to my modem is just as “fast” as my old router, however it doesn’t have nearly the same transmission/reception range. I figured that this wouldn’t be a big deal once the additional access points were online.

While the additional points do extend the system’s reach, there is quite a cost. When connected to one of the meshed APs instead of the main router, the connection speed was dramatically decreased. This was true even when I tested the speeds with the AP sitting right next to the router and using the same distance to the same laptop.

This is very disappointing, and I have found that my old router delivered better speeds even at lower connection strength in certain areas in and around my home. Another issue that I have discovered is that when moving through my network environment my mobile devices do not always “roam” to the closest AP or rather, they will show that I have an excellent signal, but I cannot access the internet.

This can be fixed by waiting a few minutes for the network to figure it out or by disabling and re-enabling the wifi on my device. Either option can be annoying. Overall, I have been a bit disappointed with this system.

I have kept it in use as I got it on sale and the comparable router that I would replace it with is much more expensive at a time that I cannot really afford to spend the money. I am most disappointed with the performance of the APs, and I am hopeful that future system upgrades will improve the situation.

If not I will probably replace when I am better able.

This Deco AX3000 mesh Wi Fi system was easy to setup, and I’m happy to report that I have fast, reliable coverage throughout our two-story house, including some spots that were definitely not being well served by a single Wi Fi router.

We have lots of devices in our home – work computers, personal computers, streaming TV devices, tablets, a Wi-Fi connected security system, a whole host of smart devices, etc. They’re all connected, and all getting fast, reliable connection.

The Deco app is fairly easy to use to configure your network settings, choose device options, etc. We have a very-popular residential fiber-optic ISP, and I was able to completely replace the router I was renting from them with this system.

My Deco base station is connected directly to their terminal via Ethernet. If you have a cable internet ISP, you’ll need to keep your cable modem and connect that to the Deco via Ethernet (but won’t need a cable modem with built-in Wi-Fi router anymore).

From a slightly more technical perspective, I’ll note that the three stations are all the same, and that the two ethernet ports on each support “auto-sensing. ” That means a few things: First, no one device is pre-determined to be the base — whichever one you set up first in the app takes on that role, and the others become satellites.

Second, whichever ethernet port you connect to your ISP connection becomes the WAN port. Third, if you wanted to connect the Deco devices to one another by wire (and preserve all of the available wireless bandwidth for communication with your computers, phones, and other devices), you can do that using whichever ethernet port is available on each one.

A few other technical notes just in case: Setup and configuration is primarily through the app. There is a web interface, but it seems like it doesn’t support all of the features. So, if you are someone who *needs* to configure your devices via desktop/laptop computer, this may not be right for you.

Also, there’s no dedicated third band of wireless signal for station-to-station communication, so while I had no noticeable speed issues, systems with a dedicated band will be faster. This can be mitigated using the “ethernet backhaul” feature I described above, connecting the Deco devices by wire, but I found there’s plenty of speed and bandwidth to go around, even without using that option.

Overall, I’m happy with this TP-Link Deco system. Easy to setup and use, reliable and fast coverage throughout our home.

What would we all do without the Express LRS project and vendors willing to invest in adopting such a new and open source project??? I am so glad Frsky is in the dust. Happymodel always knows how to get it done and that is no different with the EP2 receiver.

This is basically the standard that all the others have to live up to. Quality components and always great production. With ELRS’ exceptional range I would even think about running this teeny tiny thing in 5″ acro builds.

Why not save weight if you can right? range is still no issue even with the onboard ceramic antenna.

I purchased this receiver because I was intrigued by its ceramic antenna and I wanted to get into ExpressLRS with a production model. (HappyModel’s TX also works well with my Jumper T-Lite. ) The wifi update ability is really cool and it’s very affordable.

It’s very small, so make sure to secure it when soldering. It also didn’t come with any wires. In the field, I didn’t have any failsafes, but did start getting some alerts earlier than my Jumper R1, which was disappointing.

I figured that the body of quad might be interfering a bit, so I spent another $13 and bought the EP1, which has a more traditional T-shaped antenna, which I ran out the back of the quad. (Otherwise, I think they are the same unit and take the same firmware.

) I then tested each by walking away from the quad with my T-Lite and measured which antenna failsafed first. No surprise. the T antenna of the EP1 won, but only by about 50 ft. (My test was very unscientific, so your mileage may vary.

) I’m keeping the EP2 though, because I think it would be great on a whoop.

These little things are my go to! So small and light, and you don’t have to worry about mounting the antenna. If you want maximum range these are about half the standard antenna, but with ELRS at 200mw, I NEVER get telemetry drops.

I have had full failsafe at 25mw, close to the ground in a bunch of concrete buildings at like 400yards. But in that quad it’s also mounted right under the battery, and could likely be improved if moved to the back.

If you are running ELRS, you better try some of these things. They’re awesome.

Cannot disable D SIP ALG firewall settings in the routers interface. Settings are extremely basic. Not much control. VOIP. phones will not ring, poor sound quality, send caller directly to voicemail or just never connect.

I sent Tenda support an email and also called. Find a better product if you use VOIP other than that it works great. I was able to remove a WiFi repeater from my old system which was an outdated Netgear.

Very good for a little girl mad about FROZEN

!!!

If you want to install a network in your home or office, my recommendations are as follows: If you can do it yourself or hire someone else to do it, by all means install Gigabit Ethernet. It is simply the best, most cost effective and reliable home networking solution you can install.

If you live in a home built on a slab, or without attic access, or a condo that frowns on drilling holes in the walls, then I would go with a WIFI-N or a WIFI-AC networking system. My last choice would be Powerline networking.

There maybe cases such as in large apartments or condo complexes, where WIFI systems are subjected to too much local interference. In these situations Powerline AV maybe your best networking choice. Powerline AV can also be useful for bringing connectivity to a room that is poorly served by WIFI.

You have to be flexible and willing to experiment though to get the best results with Powerline AV. Here are the benchmark results I got using LANSpeed Test. Note the bottom Mbps value is the most important number: Measured with both units on the same power strip: Writing (Upload) Reading (Download) Time / Packet: 0.

1104356 0. 119306 Time to complete: 1. 104356 1. 19306 Bytes per second: 9,494,909 8,788,963 Bits per second: 75,959,272 70,311,704 Mbps (Default) 72. 4404068 67. 0544662 Throughput: Average Measured from Router to Kitchen: Writing (Upload) Reading (Download) Time / Packet: 2.

4107492 2. 5230744 Time to complete: 24. 107492 25. 2307443 Bytes per second: “434,959” “415,595” Bits per second: “3,479,672” “3,324,760” Mbps (Default) 3. 3184738 3. 1707382 Throughput: Poor Measured from Router to Garage: Writing (Upload) Reading (Download) Time / Packet: 3.

716844 7. 7630556 Time to complete: 37. 1684404 77. 6305564 Bytes per second: “282,115” “135,073” Bits per second: “2,256,920” “1,080,584” Mbps (Default) 2. 1523666 1. 0305252 Throughput: Very Poor Measured from Router to Garage Via 1.

0 GB Ethernet Writing (Upload) Reading (Download) Time / Packet: 0. 0172213 0. 0197746 Time to complete: 0. 1722125 0. 1977461 Bytes per second: “60,888,495” “53,026,381” Bits per second: “487,107,960” “424,211,048” Mbps (Default) 464.

5423508 404. 5591812 Throughput: Very Good As you can see my throughput results varied from Average to Very Poor over the Powerline Network system, versus Very Good for my gigabit Ethernet system. To get to my garage the packets had to travel through a three unmanaged gigabit switches on the way there.

The measurements were made during the daytime when the network was in use. I know my gigabit Ethernet system is capable of file transfers of up to 850 Mbps, when there is little network traffic. All measurements were made between a Lenovo laptop with a gigabit Ethernet adapter and a BSD Unix NAS server located in my basement.

Would I recommend it? As I stated above, if Ethernet is impractical and WIFI suffers too much interference, then I would try Powerline networki.

So, a summary. Unboxing was unsurprising. The product came as advertised in a smallish box without too much packaging waste. In the box were 2 adapters, 2 short Ethernet cables, a mini sized CD with some management software I didn’t need to use, and a quick setup guide.

I should note that I’ve heard that the software can be very useful tweaking the settings of these adapters to get improved performance, to make firmware upgrades, or to fix performance problems. I’ve been so happy with them right out of the box that I just haven’t tried out the software yet.

Installing it was very simple, and even though it was a different model from my other powerline adapters the normal process to add the adapters to the network worked just fine on the first try. My gigabit switch recognized the cable connection as gigabit speed too, a nice upgrade from the previous model which removes one potential transfer bottleneck.

As a standalone product, it has outstanding value and can be greatly superior to wireless especially in congested wireless areas or in large multi-story houses. Just remember that you can’t use these on powerstrips and you get the best results on the same wiring circuit within the house.

As an addition to an existing powerline network setup, it was fully compatible even in encrypted secure mode with my AV-500 (TL-PA411) devices, showing minor improvements across the board when transferring between dissimilar adapters and very large speed improvements between the two new AV-600s.

In short, I highly recommend these devices for either setting up a new powerline network, or adding devices to an existing compatible TP-Link powerline network. Just remember to keep them off the powerstrips and don’t expect miracle 2-way transfer speeds especially if they’re not on the same wiring circuit.

I’ve had this to play around with for just over 2 weeks. This device has been a lot of fun and improved my ping times, and bandwidth compared to the WiFi card that is in the PC i was testing this on.

Where Power Line excels over Wi-Fi. * No hardware has to be installed into your PC. Where with wireless you need a Wireless card. * Provides Superior Ping times then wireless near equal to being plugged straight into the router.

If you live in a house or area where Wi-Fi can be spotty (randomly goes from 5 bars to 2-3) this powerline AV600 is a great solution. My home used to testing is only 1900 Square Feet. The distance from router to outlet to Breaker Box to Outlet where powerlined hooked up PC is was less then 100 Ft.

Because I have newer electrical lines, proper wiring throughout the house and newer box any possible interference was minimal. This device is rated for 600 Mbps. I was able to achieve 550 Mbps through put.

The limitation was the speeds the 2 PC drives could send data to each other (Raid-SSD to Raid-SSD using 1 large 2 gig sequential read/write file copies both ways. If I had A PCI-E SSD or a Raid SSD I could have tried to get closer to the Powerlines Limits.

My house has Wi-Fi issues so to speak I have few solid structures (fireplace in center of house) which has always been a cause of Wi-Fi signal degradation. This device allows my PC to use the internet and mt network to its full potential with no hick ups Installation is fast and easy just plug powerline into your router then plug jack in, and do the same with other end jack into wall Ethernet to desired PC/Device.

If you demand low latency reliable connectivity this is a great device. Please note some devices such as smartphone chargers can cause interference with the power line but I tested myself with 4 chargers plugged in and myself noticed no degradation in bandwidth or latency.

If you have a larger house or your wiring is older you may have issues that I did not. This device is now my primary connection instead of Wi-Fi for my bedroom PC. The difference in Pings and Stability has been phenomenal.

Highly Recommend.

Where my computer is was close to the limit of our WiFi system. The data was sluggish, video would pixelate, and I’d have dropouts when watching sports. I was thinking of trying to run a long ethernet cable underneath the house.

Then I thought of using some device that would use the mains wiring in my house to send data between the router and my computer. I looked on PB Tech’s website and saw some. I then saw there were some which came with “AC Pass-Through”, so they came with a plug connection built into them.

While the price was higher, it seemed to me that might be worth while, sort of like future proofing. I had PB Tech courier them to my house, which wasn’t very far from one of their stores. They arrived on the day they said.

The packaging was all the sort you could put straight into the recycle bin. The instructions were more or less “plug and play”. I plugged in to the wall socket by the router, and the benefit of the AC pass through plug became apparent.

I connected the router to the one of the two Powerline Kit devices with one of the supplied ethernet cables. I then plugged the other Powerline kit into a wall socket by my computer, and again the benefit of the AC pass through was apparent.

I connected the Powerline kit to my computer with the second ethernet cable. I didn’t need to press any buttons, the two units made contact and I was on line. I did a speed test using the Chorus speed tester and, using WiFi got a download speed of 28.

2 Mbps, upload speed of 19. 8 Mbps, a ping time of 2 ms, and jitter of 3 ms. Using the Powerline kit (everything else the same) I got a download speed of 86 Mbps, upload of 20. 8 Mbps, a ping time of 3 ms, and a jitter of 1 ms.

I just now redid the test using the Speed test website (www. speedtest. net) and for the WiFi got 32. 19 Mbps download, 17. 2 upload, and a ping time of 3 ms; while using the Powerline kit got 75. 39 Mbps download, 20.

83 Mbps upload, and 3 ms ping time. Overall, I think these are excellent. On rare occasions I have had the momentary dropout, but on the whole these have been extremely reliable and as you can see from the speed tests the speed is so much better than what the WiFi provided.

I have to admit my results don’t show 600 Mbps, but I suspect I’d need an ideal environment to achieve that. The results I showed just above show the Powerline kit devices are approximately twice as fast as using WiFi.

So my ONT and router are next to my desktop pc and my tv and games console are at the other end of my home. The little wifi extender I had in place just wasn’t doing enough. So these little units, combined with an Ethernet switch I had knocking about allowed me to hardwire into my PS4 and smartvu+ box running Freeview and my tv apps.

A speed test shows my download speed as 74Mbps (I’m on 100/20). A vast improvement over wifi. A word of advice: download the utility from TP Link for this device. This will allow you to specify the main use type: e.

g. general internet, gaming, streaming. I imagine this affects latency, so it’s useful to have installed.

Great product which solves problems of connections over longer distance. Problems with connecting two PC’s to the one system as they were allocated the same mac and ip address. Created problems with split downloads and uploads that went nowhere.

Support said that can’t happen and had no solution. Needs individual system per PC with dedicated LAN cable from modem to ensure each is allocated seperate mac address then works fine. Replaced with dual band usb wifi with high gain antenna on 1 PC.

Now works at 433 mbps faster than 100mbps as previous.

Pros: Does what it says on the tin at a very reasonable price. Obviously you won’t get lightning fast speed as it’s not the latest wireless technology but for most needs it’s a cheap and easy solution.

I mainly use it to run an ethernet IP CCTV camera in the garage but it gives a handy WiFi connection out there too. Setup was probably 1 of the easiest I’ve done on my home network. Think I pushed 1 or 2 buttons and it copied my WiFi SSID (Wifi name) and password so all devices I have can automatically connect to it.

Cons: Nothing really. Faster speed and range would be nice but that’s why this is a cheaper product. For the money it’s excellent.

Only just purchased and quite pleased. Sound is no worse than most modern TVs, picture quality is very good. Only one real quibble: the text for channel information is woefully small. Can’t even read it with my distance specs on, rubbish.

Another HDMi port would have been nice in this day and age, but at least it’s not Smart. didn’t want one and this looks like the best of the rest. Only time will tell.

Purchased it to be used in a living room console to split the gigabit line across multiple ethernet devices (Tv, Roku, Lighting hub etc. ) and hoping to extend the unit to a few future POE devices. The switch worked great as a Plug and play unit and all the devices worked just fine.

But, the unit produces a constant drone like sound, which although not too loud, is extremely bothersome in a quiet setting (especially noticeable at night time when activity in the household calms down).

To a person sensitive to sounds, it can easily trigger a migraine. May not be an issue for someone using it a switch in closet or a better sound proof setup. Sadly didn’t get a chance to test the POE capabilities.

Returning the product for a TP Link 8 port, 4 port POE ‘fanless’ switch with lower power ratings.

I moved into a new house and it was hard wired for access points and security cameras but did not have any plugs for power. After doing some research, I found out about POE/POE+. I have 6 devices that needed power and Ethernet.

So I decided on this switch because it serves as both a switch and POE injector. Long story shorthooked this up to my router, connected cameras and access pointsand it has been working flawlessly ever since.

I even have an extra port left over in case I need to add one more thing whether it be another switch or device. This is a great unmanaged switch and I will continue to use them going forward for my networking needs.

This switch has fans in it. I guess that is why it is sort of a piece of network equipment that is expected to go into a rack or in a network close. If you have a set up like and have your networking gear near where you sit then this will be too noisy unless you have something else that is louder than this.

The fan(s) are not that loud but way louder than the fans on my computers. So I put it away in storage, just in case I need a switch in a pinch. I assume it does what is was designed to do. I only turned it on for a few minutes the shut it off and put it back in the box.

I did manage to find another switch that was designed without a fan.

I bought this for my father’s TIVO since he didn’t have network jacks near his TV setup in the living room and Wireless USB options are either too expensive or just unreliable in general. Setup couldn’t be simpler.

Just unpackage it. Put one of them over by your router/modem/whatever setup. Plug the other over by the TV setup. Then connect your Network Patch cables. Put one patch cable directly into your device (Tivo in my case) and the other into one of the available switch ports in the modem/router/whatever setup you have.

For the non technical user I want to point out a couple of items of note: 1) The package includes the two units and two patch cables. 2) The top of the brick is flat but depending on what you have plugged into your wall outlet you may need a liberator style extension to get both your Powerline adapter and all of your other stuff plugged in properly.

3) It is best to plug the powerline unit directly into the wall jack. Avoid the temptation to plug it into your power surge strip. 4) Be sure that your network device (TIVO in my case) Is set to DHCP instead of using a Static IP.

If you know what you’re doing it doesn’t matter but if you’re my Dad this might get confusing quick and you’ll end up blaming your problem on the wrong thing. 5) The packaging includes a disc but you don’t need to use it for anything.

These devices are really just plug and play. 6) Be sure that you don’t plug one of the network cables into anything but the standard switch ports on the Modem/Router/Whatever thing. This could cause additional issues.

You may want to consider buying a unit that costs more and provides more bandwidth if you plan on doing any kind of powerline networking that involves gaming or multi tasking applications. This device is great at the lower speeds for providing connectivity for things like TIVO updates, guide updates, and basic functions.

You may encounter issues with gaming latency, voip jitter, and or general buffering issues if you’re pushing HD content or high quality streams.

Here’s a simple test I did to see this device’s viability: My house is a 2 story 2600sqft house built in 2009. This is my internet connectivity when I plug my computer on a Switch, which has a long cable that connects to my Router: Service Provider: CenturyLink DSL (Las Vegas, NV) Ping: 14~56ms Ping Download Speed: 9.

55~10. 16Mbps Upload Speed: 0. 75~0. 77Mbps This is when I connect the Device straight from my Router, to the wall outlet. The other device is on the same floor on another wall outlet about 30 feet away if you measure it with a straight line: Ping: 16~58ms Download Speed: 9.

35Mbps~9. 50Mbps Upload Speed: 0. 75~0. 76Mbps I even tested it on a Sony Vaio all-in-one PC with a native Windows XP installed on it which is connected downstairs: Ping: 31~36ms Download Speed: 8. 16~8.

87Mbps Upload Speed: 0. 68-0. 69Mbps My conclusion is that as long as you’re not going to daisy chain the wall outlet, and you know your whole house is connected to the same Electrical Meter, then you’re as good as pre-wire connected or LAN connected using this device.

There is a slight degrading when connecting on an older PC or if it’s far away from the source. The degrading is not really a big gap, and it’s seen only on the Download speed at less than 1Mbps. I did not have multiple devices of this product, only 2 devices, one for input, and one for output.

I wonder what would happen if I had multiple devices of output, would they bog down? Would they interfere with each other? Would it work? I did not have a chance to test it, but in my expert opinion, it shouldn’t interfere or bog each other down.

Although we would never know unless tested. As far as using only 2 units, this is a great solution for anybody wanting to pre-wire a house but doesn’t want to spend on the wall mounting work or the labor involved.

This device will cleanly give you internet anywhere you find an outlet at a decent price. A word of advise for people trying to troubleshoot this device because of linking errors: 1. Am I connected on the same Electrical Meter? 99% of the time you are, but some houses have 2 Electrical Meters.

Without a coupling device, you will not be able to sync with each other if you have one device on one meter, and the other on the other meter. Example: You cannot get your neighbors Internet by plugging it there, and plugging the output in your home because they are separated by 2 Electrical Meters.

2. Am I connected on a Surge Protector or any Extension Cord with a breaker? If yes, make sure the device is connected straight to the outlet. Don’t even try to make it work with a surge protector, its not worth it.

If you need to hook up a computer to the net because of low WiFi signal or you are looking for a more solid/stable connection the TP-Link powerline adapter is the way to go. This one is nice if you only need to hook up 1 or 2 computers.

200 mps is a bit slow for any more computers. I use these to hook up my TV’s to the net and have 600 mps units at the router and my computer. This saves you from having to run Ethernet cables to computers that are too far from the router.

The only drawback to using these is they need a direct plug to the power supply so they take up space on the power plugs. I did have to get a couple of Ethernet cables so I could plug them in to power plugs that were not near the computer.

So be aware of that before purchase. I defiantly love the speed/stability of my network connection and the need to buy a couple of longer Ethernet cables was minor compared to the benefits.

Review for Miniature Thermocouple Connectors Flat Pin with Write-on Window, Standard and Extended Temperature Range was shipped fast and oacked great! Perfect product!

Great Product. Long lead time. The way of our world today. Dan Coulter

Omega is our preferred supplier for thermocouples and thermocouple connectors. Always durable and precise.

These is a seriously underrated frame in terms of being able to just get out there and fly. Some builds (especially with Emax Eco2 motors and budget stacks), you can fly these with full aggression, because they aren’t pricy quads.

The thicker 6mm arms absolutely party, and overall frame is stout. I wish the mounting accommodated more than just a Vista for DJI Digital, but that’s a very minor complaint. Built mine as analog quads, and they fly effortlessly.

Somewhat more importantly, despite the deadcat layout of the frame it flies locked in. Always apply blue loctite to the threads of bolts when assembling, and make sure nothing is loose – with BF 4. 3 7″ Presets, this frame produces absolutely amazing results.

Stock Emu, and FalcoX also fly well with this type of rig – KISS on Krunked presets is worth a try, but I haven’t been as amazed with.

Excellent build quality. Hole alignment was PERFECT! Fit and finish is as good as it gets. Due to arm thickness, you will need to provide longer motor mounting screws. Otherwise, no other issues were found.

For the price, I would buy this again without hesitation. 20×20 or 30. 5×30. 5 will mount easily. Room for 4in1 esc, FC, DVR, camera, VTX, HD camera, GPS. All fit easily.

A nice, solid quad frame with plenty of space for options. I haven’t noticed any frame vibrations while flying. The deadcat arms are perfect for getting the props out of view. This thing could probably handle 8″ props.

The carbon fiber finish was nice and clean. Edges nice and smooth. My only negative is that I would have wanted the slots for battery strap to be slightly wider to allow.

Disclaimer: Mileage may vary My setup goes Router>This adapter>Wall>Power splitter>Adapter>Desktop. Despite having to go through the power bar, I get close to full speed (50MB/s) speed with no appreciable increase in latency.

Everyone warns you not to have anything between the adapter and the wall, but it honestly hasn’t been a problem with me. I used to use a 5GHz wifi network before this which has been suffering intermittent dropouts, but I’m not having any of that anymore.

Pros: Qualità immagine Cons: Per ora no

TranslateShow in original languageOm redenen van ruimte had ik een televisie nodig die niet groter was dan 40 inch (en ze zouden niet allemaal passen). Ik heb er lang over nagedacht, maar alleen deze Panasonic, precies de TX-JX40800E, voldeed aan mijn verwachtingen: met 4k liquid crystal LED-technologie (al zegt Macondo Company dat het plasma is?), Bright Panel Plus, HDR+ Adaptive en Dolby Vision was ik gegarandeerd om er nu en in de nabije toekomst goed uit te zien; Ik heb ook een goed, upgradebaar en solide besturingssysteem gekregen met Android TV van Google (heel goed dat Panasonic deze stap heeft genomen, voor mij is het essentieel dat het de tv richt op on-demand consumptie), met alle beschikbare apps en voor tot mijn beschikking heb en die ook voorziet in geïntegreerde chromecast en de Google-assistent (een stuk stront), en standaard verbindingen die vloeiend genoeg zijn voor mijn behoeften: dual-band wifi (2,4 ghz en 5 ghz) ac, wat niet slecht is alles, Ethernet-verbinding (geen gigabit, het is 100), bluethoot 5.

1, 2 usb 2. 0 (de tweede met opname), 3 hdmi (ze zenden 4k uit en de tweede is ARC, handig voor het installeren van een soundbar), CI+, AV. Het heeft zeer interessante extra’s zoals Dolby surround, Loves tv, ambient sensor, filmmaker-modus, afgezien van de typische functies zoals teletekst, EPG of favorietenlijst, onder anderen.

Ik wilde dat de afstandsbediening grote en duidelijke toetsen had en de zenders zou kunnen bestellen, want het is voor mijn ouders en dit is essentieel voor hen. De afstandsbediening is meer dan een voet lang, de toetsen hebben duidelijk zichtbare cijfers en letters (niet erg glamoureus, maar zeer functioneel).

Er zijn specifieke toetsen voor Netflix, Prime Video, RakutenTV en Youtube. Een voor toegang tot APPS en een andere programmeerbaar om je favoriete app daar te plaatsen, Mijn app. Het is super praktisch.

Punt voor Panasonic. De plug zit vast en de poten zien eruit als een soort metaal, ondanks hoe dun ze zijn, ze wegen en houden goed vast. De doos bevat, afgezien van het voor de hand liggende, de twee batterijen voor de afstandsbediening en de handleidingen in verschillende talen, waaronder Spaans.

Macondo Company biedt zijn ondersteuning en informatie en goede opties worden ook aangeboden op de website van de fabrikant: ondersteuning, downloadhandleidingen, firmware (hoewel downloads van updates automatisch zijn), mogelijkheid om het product te registreren.

Het kostte me € 435,05 (ik denk niet dat dat het aanbod lang meegaat) en gezien de apparatuur die het al heeft, zou ik niet kunnen vragen dat het ook luxueus klinkt, iets meer is dan LED, als de bliksem loopt, overloopt van design of edele materialen of om state-of-the-art verbindingen op te nemen.

Als dat het doel is, zal het waarschijnlijk nodig zijn om het model en de prijsklasse te wijzigen. Ik heb elke cent die ik heb geïnvesteerd in wat voor mij fundamenteel is, uitgeperst. Macondo Company bood me de meest concurrerende prijs met alle garanties, en hoewel het in zijn eigen doos kwam, zonder verdere bescherming (en dit wordt aangegeven op het web), is de waarheid dat het in perfecte staat aankwam en de bezorger was het meest vriendelijk en behulpzaam, voorzichtig, zelfs met dubbele controle).

De winkelervaring is naar volle tevredenheid verlopen. Het ziet er over het algemeen erg goed uit en met 4k is het beeld spectaculair, helder, scherp, met levendige kleuren en heeft het veel opties om het comfortabel te maken.

Het geluid is voldoende voor een gewone gebruiker, normaal ten opzichte van televisies in deze prijsklasse, maar zal door de aanschaf van een soundbar flink verbeteren. Het besturingssysteem werkt normaal, het is geen bliksemschicht, maar het is ook geen schildpad.

Er is ongeveer 12 Gb aan capaciteit en na het installeren van drie of vier apps meer dan de vooraf geïnstalleerde apps, is er nog ongeveer 9 Gb over (voor meer apps, foto’s. ). Tot nu toe heeft alles wat ik heb geprobeerd gewerkt.

Vanuit mijn bescheiden ervaring is het enige dat ik zou adviseren: 1 Houd de tv bij het monteren niet vast aan de bovenkant (zoals aangegeven in de handleiding) en houd een kleine schroevendraaier bij de hand, want deze wordt niet meegeleverd.

Wees voorzichtig met de gleuf om de spijkers van de pootjes in te steken, deze is erg diep en de spijkers kunnen er heel gemakkelijk doorheen, waarna ze heel moeilijk te verwijderen zijn (negatief punt voor Panasonic).

2 Bij het configureren, de gegevens van uw Google-account hebben (of er een maken), wat in feite uw e-mailadres en wachtwoord is. Houd ook het wifi-wachtwoord bij de hand als u het wilt activeren. Het is gemakkelijk om het handmatig te configureren, maar het kan ook telefonisch (als iemand een eerdere configuratie heeft om te redden, bijvoorbeeld) en op de Panasonic-website staat een tutorial voor dit geval.

3 Om de kanalen te bestellen, volg de pad Menu, Instellingen, Kanaal, Kanalen en daar zie je dat de opties Kanaal wijzigen of Kanaal verplaatsen de facto zijn gedeactiveerd. Om ze functioneel te maken, moet het Logische Kanaalnummer eerst worden geactiveerd (volgens dezelfde route).

Met Channel Swap kon ik alleen de eerste 4 veranderen, met Channel Move heb ik ze allemaal gesorteerd. 4 Een beetje geduld bij het instellen. Het was moeilijk voor mij om het Ethernet-netwerk te krijgen en toen ik het aanzette, hoorde ik niets totdat ik van kanaal veranderde.

Nadat ik de kabels had teruggetrokken en alles opnieuw had aangesloten, kwam het tot rust en sindsdien werkte alles perfect, hoewel het me nog niet is gelukt om de automatische uitschakeling van 4 uur te deactiveren, omdat de uitleg van de fabrikant op hun website niet van toepassing is op dit model.

Ik had graag betaald voor betere verbindingen (wifi 6 of gigabit Ethernet, hdmi 2. 1, thunderbolt of usb c. ), maar dan moest je voor meer formaat gaan. En ik heb wat twijfels, zoals de HDMI-versie (1.

4 of 2. 0?), ik weet niet of de tv-tuner 4k is, als ik een Media Server-app download, zal ik DLNA kunnen gebruiken, het speelt alleen jpeg-afbeelding af , kan ik dit verbeteren met apps?, de hcx-processor, biedt deze 4k-scaling?.

In televisies, zoals in bijna alles, is elke persoon een wereld met zijn specifieke behoeften en eisen. Persoonlijk ben ik blij met het product en ook met de winkelervaring.

TranslateShow in original languageTrès belle qualité d image surtout en mode cinéma, Sublime en mode Dolby vision 4k qualité incroyable, on en prend plein les yeux avec Netflix et Disney+. Le système Android TV est un plus et répond bien dans l ensemble.

Seuls défauts les angles de vision avec grosse perte de colorimètrie si on est pas en face de la dalle mais c est le problème de toutes les tv Led et le son moyen mais j utilise un home cinéma donc cela ne me gêne pas.

Image trop sombre le soir si on laisse la sonde de température activée. Un super rapport qualité/prix imbattable?.