20 Best Engine Oil For Bmw (2023 Updated)

I’ve been using royal purple for a while. Just did an oil change at 7500kms to get ready for camping season and the old oil looked brand new. It didn’t have the purple colour but had a nice amber colour, I can’t believe how well this oil holds up.

I am very particular about doing oil changes 5-7500kms because it’s cheap, easy maintenance. This oil can probably go triple that number but to each his own. PS, anyone stating this oil improves gas mileage is wrong.

They either needed an oil change BADLY or they were using the incorrect grade. Motor oil alone cannot increase fuel economy as it has nothing to do with air/fuel mixture in a 4 stroke fuel injected engine.

The company specialty was and still is a product made for performance vehicles. Racing! They manufacture for industrial, commercial and consumer products oils including consumer Diesel engines. They do not sell directly to the public but the website is very informative and easy to go through.

It tells you what product is the right product to select for your needs. One thing is important to note for those not familiar with this brand. The oil for my car is tinted a deep purple color. However don’t expect to see purple oil after starting your vehicle.

When you check the dip stick it might look dirty and clean at first. It turns to the clean color you normally see after an oil change. It doesn’t take long for the tint to dissolve. If you’re curious what the oil looks like? Ask the first time using the oil if you can observe it being put into the car.

In daylight you can see the color. Inside it just might look like old black oil. Important to note; This product specifics not to use any additives to it. So, if you take your car in to be serviced for example let’s use a car dealership.

And they try to sell you an additive that helps the oil clean as it works or reduces friction wear. You get to say no thank you and point to the label on the bottle. Then you tell them politely you would rather save the money.

This oil doesnt need it. Be careful, because service shops will take advantage of those lacking the knowledge about what they are trying to sell you. Just for them to make money off the less knowledgeable consumer.

Yes, this is a full synthetic oil. Also remember the purple tint dissipates rather quickly. Get the detailed information about their variety of products from their website. I also suggest using their brand oil filter if you use this oil.

Just so things are in harmony.

I use this in my Kawasaki 25hp mower engine! I am a small engine mechanic and Kawasaki told me that I should run 20w-50 because of my climate, in the 3 years that I have had this motor, I tried the Kawasaki oil and another racing oil recommended by a local race shop.

I learned that added zinc would cause it to run cooler. I decided to try the valvoline vr1 racing oil and I could tell an immediate difference in the sound of the motor, I could always here the tappets with the other oils and sometimes my oil pressure light would flash, but not with the valvoline.

I could tell immediately that it was lubricating so much better, with hardly any tappet noise, and the oil light goes out ever before it starts. I’ve used valvoline in my vehicles for years and never had any problems.

So now I use the VR1 20w-50 racing oil with zinc I’m my John Deere 757 zero turn! it’s Oil!!!.

Any engine that has sliding-surface-type (cam-to-lifters) valve gear needs zinc to avoid premature wear/failure. Back in the 1900’s, most oil used to have it, but when roller-follower engines became dominant it was phased out.

(+EPA regs. ) I use it in my Studebakers, and have had no problems. This is good motor oil for classic car or severe-duty applications.

I’ve honestly used a number of different oil brands in my F250 now; there’s really only a few brands that can go the distance with my twin turbocharged F250 Super Duty! All the others seem to break down and lose their viscosity rather quickly! Castor is my go-to for my trucks oil every time to keep that motor protected and allow it to run at the highest peak it can possibly run on at all times! Of course the only place that never lets me down in knowing that what I need for my truck, including the motor oil when it’s calling for it! Is Oreilly’s every time! Hands down no doubt about it!!.

2013 Malibu eco 60,000 miles. Because of the known issue with the weak piston rings and severe blow by on the 2. 4L engines, I was adding about 2. 5 quarts of oil in 5000 miles. Check oil every 500 miles.

Switched to mobile 1 full synthetic at about 35000 miles. Nothing changed. Changed to Pennzoil at 45000 miles. Used about a quart and a half in 5000 miles. Changed to Castrol edge titanium full synthetic at 55000.

Always Used same weight. 5w30. It has used less than a quart in 5000 miles and although it’s hard to measure by eye it does look like less blow by from port on valve cover when hot at idle. Looks like this is the new oil for the Malibu from here on out.

What can I say…… I’ve been using Mobil synthetic oil for over 40 Years (!) and have had nothing but success with it. This new Extended Performance version allows me to go up to 20,000 miles or One year on a single oil change (Follow your manufacturers recommended oil change schedule listed in the owners manual).

Imagine only having to have your oil changed once a year instead of the normal 3 or 4 times a year! Not only will you like the convenience of a yearly oil change, you’ll probably like what it does for your engine.

This oil will not only save you money on gas because of the synthetic properties, but it will also clean up any left over sludge and varnish from the previous oil changes. It’s a win-win! Don’t over think this.

It’s a no brained. Go out and pick some up today. What have you got to lose!.

Background: In 2012, bought my Ford Edge Limited V6 with 32,000 miles on it. Decided to try Mobile 1 5W20 Synthetic. Started with their 10,000 mile, went to their 15,000 mile, now use 20,000 mile EP oil and have 210,000 miles on the car.

The way I rate oil is by my car’s oil sensor which tells me when I am down to 5% oil life, then I change it. Used to drive an average about 30,000 miles per year, now 12-15,000 miles. Oil: With 10,000 mile oil, I got between 8-10,000 miles depending on city or highway miles With 15,000, I get between 12-13,000 miles With 20,000, 15-17,000 miles I tried Gastrol Edge 20,000 mile oil, when Mobil’s EP was selling for $44 a jug ( I use 6qts/oil change) – only got about 10,000 miles.

Switched back to Mobil 15,000 mile oil, until prices at Walmart for ET oil changed to about $3 more – Now use ET! Oil Filters: Originally, used XG 10,000 & 15,000 filters, Walmart started carrying the Mobil 1 filters.

Changed to Mobile 1 and got an additional 1-1. 5k miles/oil change. Am now over 70, pay an additional $13,00 to have someone else change and dispose of the oil, but during this entire time have NEVER had an engine-related failure.

Just bought a 2020 Ford Edge (attention span isn’t what I once had and felt I needed the new safety features). My old Ford will probably go to a family member or someone in need of reliable transportation.

Bottom line: As long as the price isn’t ridiculous, I will stick with Mobil 1 – nothing I have tried matches their performance.

I was a little apprehensive about the natural gas, but after I did some research and video watching I understood the benefits of it and also, I work at a Jeep dealer which uses it, I made the switch and was amazed at what it did!!! My grandfather used Pennzoil in the past with my first Jeep, Now I’m officially the newest member to the Pennzoil family! Now for my 2017 Jeep Wrangler 4 door Big Bear, I’ll be using the world class protection of Pennzoil Platinum Full Synthetic! I really recommend it for all of the Jeep models including my 2 favorite models, the Wrangler and the Grand Cherokee! Pennzoil really does the job in the very hot heat and very cold New England weather.

So, if anyone has a Jeep, I strongly suggest that you use Pennzoil Platinum!.

I had a quick rattle on startup 2007 Mustang 4. 6 L @ 58K miles. I tried other premium oil and filters and was beginning to think it was a more serious mechanical issue. I switched to this oil and a (another brand ultra-synthetic) filter (because they don’t sell Pennzoil filters in my area), and the noise was instantly gone.

From the first crank, no more. Startup is smooth, quick, easy. Motor and car run noticeably smoother. The product says it provides the same protection as 5W-20, so I’m covered there. Looking forward to trying this stuff out.

Beware, the cheap, thin, flimsy bottle cap these clowns use on these bottles will leak oil into your trunk and ruin everything. Want to waste days trying to get synthetic oil out of your trunk and items, buy this.

A completely avoidable disaster if Pennzoil would just provide a decent bottle and cap. This happened TWICE. The 1st time I thought it might’ve been my fault, but the second time I am sure. Do NOT buy this product until they provide a decent container and resealable cap.

I have used Mobile 1 since 1978 and it has been the best oil I could buy. It saved my butt on Christmas morning as there was a huge snowstorm Xmas morning in 83′. Expressways were shut down due to high winds, drifting snow and temperatures at -30 F.

We spent Xmas eve at an emergency storm shelter. That morning, out of 50-80 cars, trucks & buses. My car and one other were the only ones that would start. Mobile 1 oil does not thicken in extreme cold weather like conventional oil.

My engines never had sludge build up like other cars and I typically keep my cars to 200K miles.

The opposite of convenient. I have been doing the same thing with the same product with every other auto parts store for many years. The longest it ever took to get the – it’s ready to be picked up has been 30 minutes, until Oreillys.

It not only took several hours for someone to walk 20 feet over a jug of oil, they sent the email minutes before they closed, so I had to wait for something every other place had. When I did pick up the oil, the guy was a jerk.

I will never be back. In a nutshell – you are employed by lazy people who give people like me many reasons to go anywhere but your place to shop. You should all do 2 things as far as I’m concerned. Be ashamed, and find a new line of work.

I’ve used Mobil 1 from Auto Zone since I bought my 2016 Mazda CX-5. It’s performing like the day I bought it. Mobil One can be bought anywhere, but, when you buy from Auto zone you get mare than the others.

I usually buy a 5 quart container and filter. The one time I couldn’t get the 5 quart container, AutoZone gave me 5 one quart containers for the same price. Additionally the filter that came with the deal was out so they upgraded me to a better filter.

I’m a veteran and they applied the 10% discount to an already good deal.

What do Mobil 1 synthetic Oil, Fram oil filters and Quaker Jalapeno Grits all have in common? Me, my wife and my truck. My trucks have used Mobil 1 oil since 2002, I have used Fram oil filters since my first new car in 1967 and I have never had a problem with either.

My wife and I have loved Quaker Jalapeno grits since they have been making them, but are sometimes hard to find. Now the point of this review is that I change my oil about every five to six thousand miles which coincides with our usage of twelve boxes of grits.

But instead of driving 35 miles round trip to purchase these items, I simply log onto Walmart. com and order them. Within 1 to 3 days Fedex drops them at my doorsteps saving me a couple of hours time and about 3 gallons of liquid gold gasoline.

Convenient, time and money saving. What else can I say but Keep it up Walmart and I will keep on shopping. Thanks.

Over time traditional oils degrade O rings and other rubberized or plastic components that they come in contact with. Not to mention the caustic cancer causing risks associated with these standard oils when they come in contact with you skin.

And after personally experiencing some valve cover gasket and engine seals starting to seep and slowly drip oil it was suggested I switch over to a full synthetic or blend to combat this issue. I think that was the smartest thing I could’ve done to remedy some of the problems related to conventional oil! I now own a pickup truck and I will only use synthetic oil in it as well as any other vehicle I own throughout my life.

The extra cost of synthetic far outweighs the “cost” of conventional oils. When you look at long term effects and damage caused by regular crude oil vs the synthetics with their longer time between oil changes and their durability, the choice should be a no-brainer.

I have been using Mobil 1 synthetic for my cars for the last 30 years. This allows me to change the oil once per year thus saving the environment (and my pocket). In the early days, Mobil used to advertise the oil as being good for 25K miles (I remember the ads stating you could drive around the world) – nowadays they have dropped those claims – I think to pad their pockets.

I lived in Germany for 3 years and bought a new BMW 3 series while I was there – I drove about 50K kilometers during that time – only towards the end did the BMW dealer recommend an oil change because of the synthetic oil that was in the engine.

In Europe they hardly ever change the oil less than 2 years unless there are a lot of miles on the car – in the US, we waste a lot of oil and damage the environment because of the marketing pressure to change the oil at less than optimum levels.

I would strongly recommend using this synthetic oil as they are the ones who started it.

Provides slightly better fuel economy than Audi’s recommended Castrol, about 1 MPG better on the highway. Never had an engine problem using it in my 1999 and newer Mercedes cars for the past 15 years.

Not a good choice for the the older classic cars that need sulfur in the oil (dino oil) to expand older engine gaskets so that they don’t leak. Bought my used 1958 Mercedes off the Mercedes-Benz dealer’s showroom floor that was covered with oil; apparently they had put this oil in that car when it was traded in; drove it home, put in conventional oil and the leaks stopped.

I feel secure driving my car when I’m using Mobil 1 full synthetic oil. I also compared the price between Costco and AutoZone. Fellows I was surprised that AutoZone price was cheaper by a few cents. Good job AutoZone.

I’m sure if there anyone out there with the same experience I had please blog it for the community to find out and take advantage of the savings and most of all is your personal time.

This brand is top notch for your vehicle. It has a proprietary ingredient that elevated it’s performance above the others. It will properly lubricate your car, prevent the viscosity from changing to a disadvantageous thickness.

Cleans your engine. Works while you put your vehicle under stressful working conditions or if you are a daily driver. Helps engine to last much longer. It really works. If you haven’t been using it by now, start.

You will notice a difference. The price you pay for this is worth it down the road when you don’t get a CEL costing your hundreds, if not thousands. Helped my old 03 pilot get to 316650 miles with OEM tranny and engine, that’s a rare sight with that year.

No problems when I sold it. I told them to keep it going, use Mobile 1.

My girlfriend at the time had a Hyundai Sonata and was long overdue for an oil change. This oil along with the ExxonMobil brand gasoline is the only motor oil/ gas that goes into the motor. As a result I’ve noticed slight gains in the maintenance time-frames; I’ve also seen a dramatic difference in how the motor idles and performs under high pressure and excessive use.

As a Dasher this is the only oil I trust to keep me in the race!.

This is my go-to engine oil for my 2007 Acura MDX. Why? because it has everything I need and nothing else. It is synthetic, so it last longer than conventional oil with high burning point. It lubricates well and flows well.

It is a high-mileage oil which means there are chemicals inside to rejuvenate all kinds of seals in the engine. Crankshaft seal, camshaft seal, oil pump seal etc. Especially the rear main seal whose replacements can cost more than $2000.

It also costs less than the Pennzoil Ultra Platinum oil. I replace engine oil on all my cars before 6000 miles. So anything extra won’t mean anything and I am happy to save a few bucks. My car has 130k miles now and it purrs like a cat and never any oil leaks anywhere.

What a great machine and I only use great oil for it.

I been a mechanic for 23 years and I seen tests done from vendors and I am sold on full synthetic for my ram 1500 5. 7 with a good quality oil filter , I change my oil between 5000-7500 miles , I pull a camper up to 7k pounds and take long trips to Days to -zero degrees to above 100 degrees.

If u have engine problems a better oil won’t help u , regular oil is fine in 75% of cars , if ur oil cap says requires synthetic and it’s under warranty make sure u use it or they will void it. Another myth is at 5k miles I don’t see any difference between color VS a synthetic oil, it’s still dark black.

It seems like most oil breaks down at 1500-2000 miles and changes color quick. I’m going with what I seen. In person on tests and I’m using synethic and I like it s made from natural gas.

My 1979 Volvo 244 DL with 231000 km has been treated to Shell Rotella T4 10W30 since Sept. 7, 2019, odometer at 215477. The overhead cam/valve sound is quieter at 3000 R. P. M. on the 400 series highways at 100 km/h.

The rear crankshaft oil seal has stopped seeping oil this year. I used to use synthetic oil. I can experience that Shell Rotella T4 10W30 oil really agrees with the 2. 1 L, B21 A naturally aspirated gasoline engine.

These are long-lived engines, and anything I can do to prolong its life is appreciated. Thanks, Shell engineers, for the extra protection of Z. D. D. P. for the camshaft lobes!.

I use this twice a year changing out all my motorcycles oil. Never had a problem, last as long if not longer then the more expensive motorcycle oils for tappets. I can tell I need a change when the gear dogs click louder than normal.

I get about 2500 miles out of a change in my old air cooled shared sump bikes. I’m sure I could go longer, oil still looks nice when I drain it. I just prefer to change it at manufacturer intervals. I then use the used oil in my mowers for a half season of more.

Have one mower that’s been going strong for 11 years, still doesn’t smoke and starts every time. Wouldn’t trust anything else in my old fleet of tappet head bikes.

I am almost 60 and I have been hot rodding cars since I was 14 yrs old. I have used a lot of different motor oils but none has worked as well as Rotella T4 15W-40. I ran this oil in my high HP 388 CID full roller SBC for over 70,000 miles and pulled the motor to put into a different car and decided to freshen it up while it was out.

The machine shop that had done the work on that engine 10 years prior couldn’t believe it. They told me it looked like the engine was fresh out of their shop and all they had to do was replace the valve seals.

NO machine work was necessary! I’ve never seen an engine abused like this one come out so pristine after so many miles! If you are looking for a great conventional oil, this is the ONLY one for you and for high HP cars! Forget about the fact it is made as a Diesel oil, this IS a Muscle Car oil!.

After hearing and reading rave reviews on this oil, and reading posts about it on oil-focused sites and forums, I thought I would give it a try. Im running it in my 04 Grand Caravan with the 3. 3L V6.

Running a half-and-half mix of 5w-40 and 15w-40. Let me say this, my van has never ran so well just by changing the brand and type of oil I am using. It currently has 209k on it and runs like a top. I switched to diesel oil because it has a higher film strength, better wear packs, and better detergent packs than gas oil does.

I want my van to run as long as possible. I am one of those people that drives a vehicle until the wheels fall off, so they say. Ive used other brands before and they have worked well, however, since changing to Rotella T6, my van has more power and response than I ever remember it having.

Rotella and other Shell products will be my only brand now. Stocked up on quite a bit of Rotella in all its major types, T4, T5, T6.

I own a towing company. We are classified as emergency and NEED every truck to start, run well, and last a long duration. Over the years weve tried everything. Currently, we run older 7. 3 diesels and new 6.

7 diesels. There is hands down a HUGE difference in cold starting and gas mileage, and performance. So much easier for the pumps, and a smother running engine. Its no joke, this oil has been used since it came out in out trucks, and our 7.

3’s have zero internal issues with between 500k and 800k miles on some of the engines. Our 21′ and 22′ model year trucks come from the dealership new, oil drained, and t6 put in to make sure the engines get the best protection right from the start.

Yeller Towing, Elk River.

This rating is not a reflection on the Valvoline oil. I’ve used Valvoline for over 50 years and have had no oil related issues with any vehicles I’ve owned. The oil was ordered online as I none of the stores near me had it on the shelf for purchase.

I’d been looking for several weeks and could not find the oil even when the Walmart website said it was in stock. I’d checked the two stores closest to me four days in a row at different times of day with no luck.

The staff told me what was on the shelf was what they had. The oil arrived in a cardboard box with clear evidence of leakage. When I opened the box, the five quart bottles were laying on their sides in plastic zip lock style bags.

Each of the bottles showed signs of leakage. One had visible oil accumulation in its bag and the other two were slick to the touch. There doesn’t appear to be significant loss of oil. The packaging for shipment needs to be rethought.