20 Best Engine Oil Analysis Kit (2023 Updated)

Works well. However there is a learning curve so to speak. Found out the hard way. There is a check valve in fitting on adaptor that traps oil pressure in guage. this resulted in only reading peak pressure that in turn resulted in a missed diagnoses of active live pressure.

Removed valve and all is well.

Had to rethread the adapter. Make sure to remove the schrader valve in the filter adapter for an accurate reading. Other than that it is a great tool especially for the price.

I believe in proper maintenance, but have a problem using the prescribed KTM recommended Motul because of the extremely high cost vs the relatively low seasonal mileage I put on the bike. I’ve used this Maxima in two other LC8 bikes with no I’ll effects.

That said, I don’t track the bike, or really beat on the engine. No need to really, given my fondness for my license.

This oil is great! Bottles are super easy to hold on to and pour and the oil itself is fantastic. I guess you don’t know short term really how much your bike likes the oil but long term you do and we’ve been using this in a couple of bikes for a while with zero problems.

Just installed a Rekluse CX in my 2017 Husky 350 /KTM motor. I’m a frequent maintenance type owner. I’ve used BelRay ester synthetic, Torco T4 in it before. Good oils for sure but this is the first oil that I could feel easier shifting.

It meets KTM, Husky and Rekluse standards-JASO MA for wet clutch trans. Not only does it cost less than the others. It quieter and shifts better. -m-2017 HUSQVARNA–.

I can easily see why Home Essentials Direct endorses this product, Simply it is the best. The quality is there, and not one corner was cut. This tool is made so well, that it should be a standard on which other tools are rated.

Yes, it is that good. Unfortunately When I give such a positive review, the price jumps up, I have seen this happen again and again, and I hope it doesnt happen here, because the value ratio is so good.

This tool has 2 gauges one goes to 100 psi, and the second gauge goes to 400 psi, which makes this set extremely useful not only for engine oil pressure, but transmissions and power steering too. I see this set as a very high quality multiple use set, at an attractive price.

Yes, it is that good, I bought a second one, third picture from the left. This is what happened when I bought the Sioux tool 5977 Right angle grinder for $157. 87 4th picture from the left, and wrote a positive review, and now look at the price: https://www.

Home Essentials Direct. com/gp/product/B000256TBW/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 I hope they dont raise the price, low cost volume sales are always worth more than a few sales, plus it creates loyal repeat customers.

Well, I hope this review helps, and wish you all the best. B.

I used this tester one time so far to check engine oil pressure. It did the trick. Everything in the kit seems well made. You do have to use Teflon tape on the fittings to ensure a good seal and accurate reading.

I like the included adapter (short pipe) to help reach sending unit mounting locations that are hard to get to. A tip for cleaning out the hose: pick up 2 air hose couplers, 1 male and 1 female, connect them together, and use your air compressor to blow out the oil.

Note: the oil will shoot out fast/far with even a little pressure in your air tank. I have no way to confirm the accuracy of the tester. It and my new sending unit seem to agree about my truck’s oil pressure though.

Needed to confirm transmission pressures as part of diagnosis. This tester kit came with all necessary fittings to test a 4L-65E. I realize there are cheaper testers available, but I have used OTC products in the past and found them to be reliable.

I am extremely pleased with the assortment of fittings available. Using this in conjunction with a Tech2 tool, I was able to go through all test phases and ensure the transmission was seeing proper pressure in all ranges at idle and 1500 rpm.

I was also able to test and verify that the PCS was working properly.

I like this oil for all my air cooled four stroke engine’s, have used Briggs Oil for years. I try to keep it on my shelf it gets hard to find some times and even the master shops will not keep it in stock at time’s and when they do OH boy the price goes out of sight.

I do not care for the cheep cut rate oil in the big box stores, or at the local parts store, all they carry is what they can make the most profit on. Who would have thunk it. I think I got this worth the money this time.

And the seller was great to work with. All I had to do was push the BOY IT NOW button the next thing I know here it was at my door. GREAT DEAL GREAT SELLER Thank’s Agian!.

Only oil that I would use on my craftsman mower. Have used for years and no trouble so far. My mower is used almost every week year round. Mowing summer & moving snow in winter. Have several attachments which I use for yard maintainence.

Great oil for Craftsman riding mower. (4 cycle). Mowers, automobiles, boats, motorcycles, etc. , all operate differently and the engines should be utilizing the oil that was developed specifically for them.

Ordered this model as our other OBDII/ABS reader didn’t scan ABS codes for Subaru. It was able to provide the ABS code, but unfortunately this model doesn’t have the battery reset feature which is the other reason I had picked it.

The compatibility checker on the Innova website said it did have battery reset. I think I will be returning it and looking for a model that does everything I need.

This reader is okay. This specific reader was purchased to read and clear trouble codes on my Mercedes Benz – SKL 280. It cleared one code (ABS) and would not clear the SRS code. I know the SRS code is not active because these codes were the result of disconnecting the battery – for a battery change out.

So far this has saved me $$$$. As much as I like working on my own stuff, it’s nice to get the codes and take it to a pro and have them tell you the same thing.

The ONLY oil i use in my briggs engines. My last mower ( 22 hp briggs) ran without a problem for 16 years and burned 0 oil. Now i have a briggs 24 hp mower and only use briggs oil.

Exactly what is recommended for my Poulan snow blower. Best to use what they recommend and the synthetics are great for engine

The price is a little high but the quality is outstanding. I’ll never use anything else.

I like this kit. I bought it to replace the shop coolant system tester. I had an issue where pressure took a very long time to build and would always bleed off pressure. Highest I got was 10psi. I saw a gap between the plastic pieces and sealed it with “Great Stuff”, an engine sealer.

Still same issue. I decided to remove the guage to see how well it was sealed. I saw they used the liquid teflon tape on the threads as I started to remove it. After the guage was roved I checked down in the port it threads into, there was gobs of sealant.

I cleaned that out and to my dismay, there’s no threads at all. Stripped out completely. I did what I could to clean the port out and the threads on the guage. Threading in the guage I could feel where the threads had been, and found the guage is bottomed out facing away from the handle, I believe that the assembler went for the extra half turn instead of removing the guage, resealing, and reassembling with the guage facing the handle.

I again am using great stuff on the threads and just hoping it seals and holds the guage in place. If not I will use JB quickweld. As of today I can’t return it as it’s past it’s return window, so I’m doing what I can with it.

I did make an air adapter with a pressure regulator to use the adapters in the kit with shop air. Hand pump for side of the road emergencies.

I originally bought to identify source of coolant leak. Oh, radiator separating from core. I suspected as much, as only sometimes the vehicle’s cooling system would equalize to atmospheric pressure and push coolant out of the overflow.

After servicing the entire cooling system, I pressurized it again, and this guy found a little leak from a hose that just wasn’t quite seated correctly. Saved me time and frustration. It’s a bit embarrassing, but it happens with some of these rough cut aftermarket radiator hoses that aren’t extruded quite right.

It doesn’t take that many pumps to pressurize to 18PSI. Only a couple of minutes. If you can turn wrenches, you can pressurize your cooling system. Definitely not shop grade, but great for the hobbyist.

All plastic but seems well made. Maybe not for a busy garage, but for shade tree mechanic and occasional use it’s fine. Parts fit together well and color gauge is easy to read. Good owner manual provided.

Having this available to test rad caps and potential cooling system problems is very convenient. The initial cost is less than paying a mechanic to test the system. Storage box would have been nice, but the formed plastic packaging can be used instead.

Edit 11/21/2016: I have used this tool several times now and found a weakness. The vinyl tube connection to the rad cap adapter can leak unless tightened – A LOT. I would recommend using a soap solution on the connections to make sure it is sealed, especially if you’re doing a long term pressure test, If it leaks you’ll think you have a coolant leak, when you don’t I also found that I had to tighten it so much that getting it detached was extremely difficult.

I have downgraded the rating to reflect this deign flaw. Further Update 03/19/2017: I have had to use a small o-ring on the rad cap adapter fitting where the vinyl tube attaches. As noted before this tends to leak, even when tightened.

Each time I use this tool I have to check for fitting leaks with a soap solution. I have had to further downgrade my rating.

Product seemed of reasonable quality for the price. However I was unable to use it for my Dodge or Chevy trucks. The sensors are at the back of the motor, which essentially makes it impossible to thread in the fitting because of the length of the hose.

I ended buying a quick connect gauge set off Amazon. You can thread in the fitting, and then just pop the hose on it. Super easy comparatively.

HF, why would you put multiple, identical fittings in the package. The two elbows, for example, are the exact same size and thread pitch. That’s useless if you need an elbow with a metric thread pitch.

The gauge is decent quality, but you will be out shopping for fittings to make it work. I guarantee it.

I bought this to diagnose and confirm why my low oil pressure switch light came on at 800 rpm idle. I replaced the oil sending switch first. Using this Harbor Freight tool, I confirmed that the oil pressure in my 227,000 mile engine was dropping below the 10 lbs switch threshold, but still within a safe range to continue driving until an engine replacement was necessary.

I have used this in many engine. I used it to break in a 26hp kholer engine and ever since the oil stays very clean after many hard hours of work signifying that the rings are well sealed. Also I build race engines and use this to break them in.

We had one motor that had to be torn down 4 times and I reused the rod and crank bearings all 4 times because they were perfect. So I got to see the bearings after about 6 different nights of racing in them and the oil pressure is excellent still.

We get great ring sealing with this oil and I will always sell my motors with this oil.

Ran generator for 20 minutes then drained it all kinds of metal shavings came out. Second time ran for 45 minutes drained it not as many metal shavings came out. And put the Amsoil full synthetic in it.

Run smoother check spark plug looks good and not that many metal shavings also added the gas additive run smoother than anybody’s I’ve seen on YouTube. Thanks Amsoil for an excellent product.

I have reviewed the specifications of several oils for my new Pontiac 455 GTO drag engine (1967 GTO) I have decided on Amsoil for break-in. The engine is a non-roller 12. 5 compression unit with a high lift cam so proper break-in is critical.

I have been using Mobil 1 synthetic oil for over 25 years now. I just switched to Liquid Moly for the last year and a half for my European cars. No complaints so far. Only time will tell how good this oil really is.

2002 Boxter runs great on 0-40. Purchasing the oil change kit is super convenient.

Best oil

Advertised as EURO oil. Contacted customer service to verify rating. They got back to me quickly to infact verify VW engine oil standards.

Good oil, value. Good oil, value.Good oil, value. Good oil, value

This Mobil1 15W-50 review specifically applies to Royal Enfield “Iron Cylinder Engine” Bullet 350cc and 500cc pre-unit singles (with separate gearbox and primary drive) and to other older British motorcycles with separate primary drives, especially those with pushrod-operated valves, like older Triumphs and Nortons.

Mobil1 15W-50 contains a very desirable higher “old fashioned” Zinc anti-wear additive package than all other “weights” of Mobil 1 oil suitable for old British bikes, except for their far more expensive “special” V-Twin blend.

The zinc levels found in the various weights and blends of Mobil1 can be found on their website at https://mobiloil. com/~/media/amer/us/pvl/files/pdfs/mobil-1-oil-product-specs-guide. pdf. The Mobil1 15W-50 contains 1,300 parts per million of zinc, which is near optimal for those older motors.

Unfortunately, zinc additive levels for the more modern SAE ratings (SM, SN, “SN Plus”) have been reduced greatly so as to reduce harm to modern catalytic converters. However, older vehicles really need that extra bit of zinc.

Accordingly, I have found that a “cocktail” of Mobil1 15W-50 with just about 2 ounces of a product called “Lucas Oil Products 10063 Engine Break-In Oil Additive – Plus Zinc”, available from Walmart as an “In-Store Pickup” by special order (see: https://www.

walmart. com/ip/Lucas-Oil-Products-10063-Engine-Break-In-Oil-Additive-Plus-Zinc/44819568) is a demonstrably near perfect blend for my 2005 Royal Enfield, bringing those zinc levels up over the ideal 1,500 parts per million really required by those old thumpers.

Tappet adjustment to compensate for regular wear of cam followers and related valve gear is a common and very regularly required maintenance task on older British bikes. My Enfield’s tappets have not required even a single adjustment since I started using this brew, well over 5,000 miles and more than a year ago.

This simply demonstrates that there has been no measurable wear whatsoever in the normally “wearingest” bits of the engine. That’s good, right? Bear in mind, this recommendation does NOT apply to later model (2010 or later) Unit Construction Engine Royal Enfield Bullets or to other bikes whose engines and transmissions share the same oil.

It might make one’s clutch too “slippy. ” But if you’ve got an old pre-’90s British single or twin whose primary drive runs its own separate slippery goo, then do try my cocktail! Mobil1 15W-50 is certainly good enough just on its own, but adding a little dash of just a couple of ounces of that Lucas Zinc Additive (no need to overdo it) is really superlative, and won’t break the bank.

I have a kia sorrento 2012 and I decided use mobile 1 oil ( it requires 5w-20). after about 2000 miles it started to show me the engine light with P0014 code. In the beginning showed it rarely and still took that of buy it self.

I take it in different shops but they couldn’t find what it was. And by the end of 5000 miles of the oil it kept the engine light on all the time. I got worried because it looked as a big problem that no one can find what it was and everyone was “experimenting” with what it might have been.

He after 5100 miles I changed the oil of the car and this time I tried Castrol. The car hasn’t done the problem even once after 3000 miles with the new oil. I even googled if there is a known problem about that but I couldn’t find it, BUT what I found was that a lot of people that had the P0014 code had used Mobile 1 oil.

Very disappointed especially when you know how much you have spent to find out what was wrong with you car but that actually was just a bed and expensive oil. Never again Mobil 1 products.

Easy to use and great price. Dec 2020 I dont know if they are discontinuing it, but I purchased the last few bottles from all the Walmarts in my area. Has Wet Clutch compatibility for my Kawasaki Bayou ATV 4×4 and Yamaha dirt bike.

Oil seems to work well, I change often as I follow manufacturers maintain CE schedules. Work well in 4 seasons, I keep ATV in 40 F heated garage.

Valvoline has a good product reputation, and in this case, it was what the original owner of our boat was using. This oil is for an 8HP Honda outboard, for trolling. We’re happy to use the same product.

I’m a big believer in not mixing brands either.

The pump discharge connection into the tank leaked and created a big mess on first use. Before giving up on it I took it apart and found the problem, luckily easy to fix. The pump discharge tube into the tank was not installed properly, the tube needed to be pushed further into the quick release fitting to seal.

After reseating the discharge hose it now works fine. Small quality issue on assembly process. Glad it’s working now.

This pump is easy to use, drains the oil fast, and is built well. Use it for my Sea-Doo and my Ski-Doo – beats the manual pumps by far.

Contained well. Took it to recycle center and emptied straight from container, no transferring.

Just rebuilt an engine that had low oil pressure and I didn’t trust the gauge on the instrument panel for the critical first start. I looked around for an oil pressure test kit and most were about twice the cost and were limited in the length of the hose.

This kit had two gauges and a multitude of fittings to adapt to different engines and transmissions and the gauges have quick disconnects. The gauges are large and easy to to read, the fitting quality looked good, and it has a good case.

The long hose allowed me to place it on the windshield where I could watch it during startup and yes, the engine oil pressure was excellent!.

Just like their other oil pressure test, this device very difficult to use because you have to thread the hose/connection into the adaptor which is screwed into the engine’s oil pressure outlet. WHen the oipl pressure outlet is hard to get to, this is very difficult.

Having a quick connect on the gauge end doesnt help – they should have put the quick connect on the other end.

not a professional mechanic but am a heavy diyer. and it’s a nice kit probably will have just about everything you will need. I like having it all together in one kit. so far all the different Maddox stuff I have use seems good to go.

Exceptional value for money. Have used on multiple vehicles and would happily recommend.

Well Made and Compact

Alles super.