20 Best Engine Flush For Sludge (2023 Updated)

It really helped to not burn so much oil…

Done really good job!

Very good product for clean the oil system.

I use this product after every time I run my boat in saltwater. I also use it at times to spray down the trailer and the exterior of the engine. I always wondered how well it dissolved minerals. Well I found out this past week when the bottle leaked into a bucket that had a brass hose nozzle and the solution literally dissolved the soft brass.

There is no doubt this product can dissolve minerals just don’t forget your brass nozzle if your bottle of Salt Terminator leaks into your bucket. I now understand how it passes through the engine and dissolves the salt and other minerals.

Always make sure that when I flush my motor, I make sure that the applicator runs until the solution is gone and then I continue to rinse the interior of the engine.

Had a salt water mist coat the entire engine room on the boat. Ugh. Put the correct dilution in a 2 gallon sprayer and sprayed this everywhere with generosity. Even on electrical components. Then brought the hose to bear with freshwater and rinsed well.

Started the diesel and let it warm up the space to rapidly dry off all the nooks and crannies. Engine room looks better and all electrical stuff works. Time will tell if corrosion sets in.

It works! I use to just flush my mercruiser with freash water after being in saltwater. I always noticed that the next time I ran it I would get rusty water out the back. After used saltaway 2 times I’m not getting that rusty water out the back.

product itself looks to work ok. but I bought 2 bottles. 1 was missing the o ring for the dispenser, the other o ring was unusable because it was damaged. Both bottles were shrink wrapped so they weren’t tampered with.

it has nothing to do with the seller, everything to do with the manufacturer.

The chemical solution foams and works as expected BUT the cheap little plastic hose adapter is a joke. I have it rigged so I can get the salt terminator through my outboard but I have it permanently attached to a garden hose and I’m not sure how long it will last.

For the money, you should get a decent adapter not a cheap POS. I hear the “salt away” adapter that twice as much as this one is the exact same crap adapter.

I did not see some clean effect on targeted engine parts, also my mechanic in last oil change say: nearly nothing changes. picture on product package is clearly manipulative-not real. my car run on petroll.

But for somebody is maybe ok.

it is a great product. you can feel the difference in your engine running smoother and cleaner

WORKS WELL IN HIGH MILEAGE MOTORS.

IšverstiShow in original languageThis stuff is freaking awesome, I had some motor work done and needed to get an oil change, changing from conventional to full synthetic 5w20. I put a can in the motor and drove to the oil change place 15 minutes away.

The motor oil was still fresh looking and smelled ok, after the Liqui Moly and 15 minute drive, I checked it before they pulled it on the rack to change it and it was black like charcoal. It’s a worthy investment.

IšverstiShow in original languageI change the oil regularly. Closer to the replacement, the oil becomes slightly dark. I tried this wash – the drained oil was blacker than night! Excellent oil flushing! Now I will use it regularly.

IšverstiShow in original languagei have use a lot of liqui-moly produces but this was the first time we used the engine flush. husband was going to put in a new oil pump so we did this before we dropped the pan.

husband drained the oil and said there was a lot of junk that came out and he said it was clean up in there and the oil pan was clean too. after the oil pump got put in then it got new vavoline and a new bottle of liqui-moly ceratec put in.

if your dont know anything about liqui-moly produces look it up on u-tube LIQUI_MOLY PRODUCES. it some great stuff.

Been using if to years. Not sure it deep cleans as I was chasing a lifter tick. It did not solve that. I think it flushed the easy superficial deposits and stuff, but not the tough varnish and passages.

Probably OK for maintenance, but not solution for deep cleaning.

Motor Flush will clear the gunk from your internal parts; the cooked on residues that cause ‘stiction’, or drag from the sticky goo. Especially good for high mileage engines. Use every other oil change, at least.

TraduireAfficher dans la langue originaleSecond time I’ve ordered this Liqui Moly Stage 1 bundle to perform a maintenance reset after buying a used Q7 TDI, and again, it does not disappoint. This kit really gives you exactly what you need to clean everything out and help the remain trouble free and operating at peak efficiency.

To get the most out of this kit, refill the motor oil with Liqui Moly oil, which will result in a quieter running engine. Having tried several other brands suggested by Audi, the Liqui Moly oil is the only one I will use going forward.

I really think this kit is a strong investment in the future health and longevity of the engine. We changed all filters & fluids in conjunction with this kit, and couldn’t be happier with how well our two TDIs run.

We did see incremental increases in fuel economy measured within 1000 miles of using this kit on them. that’s the Ceratec kicking in. Both cars are bone stock and ’emissions fixed’ TDIs and return approx 6% better fuel economy than in my fuel economy tracking pre-kit.

If I slowed down a bit to reduce wind drag, I believe it would jump to 10% gain or better, but that’s exactly what makes it so impressive to see a 6% gain since nothing else has changed in regards to driving habits/usage, fueling, etc.

We don’t ‘baby’ our TDI’s; we enjoy them.

Was recommended this before doing an oil change on an old MX5 with hydraulic valve lifters that were a bit sticky on first start up. Ran the oil flush through following the instructions, changed oil and filter and perfect.

very thin liquid made oil very thin +runny oil filter was empty after removal no runs

Keep buying this for every oil change I do and it does the job no mater what type of engine…..lawn mower, motorbike, car, van, petrol or diesel….cleans all deposits and other harmful gunk….

TIP TOP

Good product and fair price

TranslateShow in original languageMuy necesario para motores con el interior con restos incrustados, sucios y con muchos kilómetros. Ideal acompañar con molygen en el aceite nuevo en la revisión. Y si es necesario una limpieza completa de admisión, sobretodo en los diésel y aditivo de limpieza de inyectores.

Yo he hecho todo lo descrito en mi coche, que tengo desde hace menos de 8 meses totalmente descuidado, el motor ha rejuvenecido 15 años con todo el espíritu de la marca. Merece mucho la pena la inversión si quieres algo bien hecho, efectivo y con resultados reales!.

I tried the engine flush as I had an annoying misfire and rough running when the engine was cold. Background info. On last years service the mechanic commented on the dirtiness of the oil he drained.

Since that oil change Occasionally the EMS light has been coming on. Saab Diagnostic readout showed misfire cylinder 2. I swapped the coil pack. Running improved but problem was not fully cured. Diagnostic readout now said multiple misfires but the Ems would reset itself as the engine warmed up and running smoothed out.

I was told my hydraulic valve lifters were probably gummed up and stripping down was the best (but pricey) cure. My engine is a 2007 saab 2 litre turbo 1. 8t by the way, which has 89k on the clock. Result.

I put the Comma engine flush in and ran the car for 5 days and 200 (including 140 on the motorway) miles before doing an oil and filter change. Now. all is quiet and more silky smooth than I ever remember it in 55000 miles of owning the car.

I’ll definitely use Comma engine flush again and recommend it!.

This stuff works. Simple to use – just pour it into your engine shortly before an oil change, and run the engine for a while, or drive around as usual. Effective – if your engine has any gunk in it this will loosen it up and mix it with the oil, turning your oil a few shades darker.

Mine came out looking like crude. Then change the filter (cheapest available), refill with Flushing Oil (highly recommended for older engines), run the engine again, then drain, fit a good quality filter and fill with the correct grade of oil for your engine.

It will stay looking like new for miles and miles, which is all the evidence you need that the Engine Flush was effective, thorough and definitely worth doing. And at this price, you’d be foolish not to.

Probably the best engine flush. This one is more of a oil based one and not just thin solvents like many others are, hence you can actually drive the car with this in. I would assume it just has a much higher detergent concentration mixed with a synthetic base oil.

Ill be using this from now on in combination with a mineral oil flush at the same time.

Before I change motor and filter. I first clean the engine. And when it’s done I drain the used oil and take out the oil filter. Once the motor is completely empty, I put on a new oil filter and fill it with motor oil for older cars and also an oil additive for the motor to be happy performing well.

My tahoe had a noticeable tick when cold, and was gradually getting worse. I used this stp synthetic flush, followed the instructions, and the tick is completely gone.

Was trying to address a torque converter shudder in my truck that would happen around 55 to 65 km/h, especially driving uphill under light throttle. Fluid wasn’t burnt but definitely looked old and greyish-red.

Followed the instructions and ran this stuff through my 4L60e before doing a passive flush through the radiator return port. I was hesitant to use this flush on my transmission since most reviews I found are for people using it in their engines.

I removed and replaced fluid 3 to 4 quarts at a time by running the truck intermittently. The first 2-3 drains had a lot of visible fine metallic specs suspended in the fluid, which I 100% believe was due to the Amsoil Engine and Transmission Flush.

Once I had removed more than the total capacity of the trans and started to consistently see fresh fluid, I dropped the pan and replaced the filter + gasket. Now, I have no way of knowing how much material was stuck to the pan magnet before the flush, but man that magnet was absolutely saturated with super-fine metallic particles.

I filled the tranny back up after bolting up the pan, flushed out another 3 quarts or so, and filled it up the rest of the way. I exchanged and replaced a total of 20 quarts of ATF, with the last 10 quarts being Amsoil Signature Series Fuel-Efficient ATF.

The shudder is gone and my shifts are much less sluggish. 1st to 2nd gear is still annoyingly harsh under light throttle, I can’t expect a fluid flush to address that. Thanks Amsoil! Will be using this stuff in the engine as well before my next oil change.

Recently purchased a 95 Volvo 850 for my son with only 178,000km. (110,000mi. ) We’ve been going through all the mechanical and decided to do an engine flush. The car had been running great but had a slight lifter tick at idle which I thought was pretty normal for a car of this age.

While idling through the flush time, the lifter noise stopped and then would come back. At 15min the lifter tick was almost gone so we ran the engine for another 5min and the ticking had stopped! I was impressed! Drained out the now dirty oil again and did another complete oil change and the engine is smooth and quiet.

Never have I seen an additive work so quickly and with such visible (audible) results!.

Hoping this product reduces the oil consumption problem my 2. 4 liter Rav4 engine has; a design flaw in the piston oil ports being too small causes the sweeper rings to gum up, not “sweeping” the oil from the cylinder walls at each stroke.

, thereby burning oil. Couple that with the elimination of detergent additives in the oil we buy and you create a perfect storm for oil consumption. This Amsoil additive is safe, it contains strong detergents to dissolve sludge buildup.

Hopefully this will loosen up the sweeper rings so they “sweep” oil off, and then open up the undersized oil ports around the top of the piston head. If this product is able to do this. it will save an engine rebuild.

Time will tell. thanks Amsoil.