20 Best Digital Camera For Streaming (2023 Updated)

This is my first mirrorless camera. I upgraded to the Z6 II after years of shooting with Nikon DSLRs, my last being the D810. This review is subjective, so your mileage and experience may vary from mine.

TLDR: Brilliant camera, highly recommended First, what I like. User interface: I like that the user interface is still largely familiar to Nikon shooters, although the positions of many of the buttons have been changed, so muscle memory still makes my left thumb hunt for controls that aren’t where they used to be.

These are minor changes, and it won’t take very long for me to adapt to the new setup. Image quality and noise handling: I’ve always liked the image quality that Nikon cameras provide, and the Z6 II is no exception.

It has lower resolution compared to my old camera (24 mp vs. 36 mp), but this will only affect me if I need to crop my photos substantially, which I usually don’t. There is a pretty significant gain in dynamic range and ISO performance coming from my last camera to this one, so that makes a huge difference to my shooting in low light conditions.

I set my auto ISO to an upper limit of 12,800, and image quality is still fantastic at this setting. Any observable noise at this level can quite easily be cleaned up in post-processing. See the next section for some more thoughts on auto ISO.

Use of legacy lenses: The fantastic FTZ II adapter has made moving to mirrorless much easier for me with all the legacy F-mount glass I have. The only AF lenses I have that won’t autofocus on the Z6 II are my D lenses, in which the AF is driven by a screw drive internal to Nikon DSLR bodies.

So, these D lenses are the only ones I need to replace for now, unless I’m okay with manual focus. Functionality on all my other lenses, including third-party F-mount lenses, remains unchanged. Touch screen: I like the touch screen functionality that this camera offers, including the ability to focus with a touch.

You can also trigger the shutter release with a touch, but I don’t like using this feature. While the newer DSLR bodies do have touch screens, my D810 didn’t. Since I do a lot of street photography, which in many cases involves my having to set the camera down at street level, the ability to both see AND focus on what I want to shoot using the back panel is definitely an advantage I did not have on my old camera.

I wish the touch screen was more articulating, but apparently this was limited to allow the use of an L-plate, which is something I’ve always used, so no real complaints here. Weather sealing and construction: I feel confident about shooting in rainy conditions since the weather sealing is so good.

And while the camera is definitely much lighter than my old one, it does feel very well constructed. Focus stacking: I like the option of being able to do this in-camera. It’s also a feature available on some DSLR models.

Dual card slots: Definitely a big improvement over the first-generation Z6. Now for what I think could be improved. Autofocus: I think Nikon has done a great job with the autofocus capabilities of this camera, even when one compares the Z6 II to the original Z6.

However, I find it cumbersome to switch between the modes that I need most. I usually use AF-C, single point autofocus for 90% of what I need to shoot, so that’s fine. For the remaining 10%, subject tracking often becomes necessary.

However, switching between single point and subject tracking with just a push of a button is impossible. You have to be in one of the auto area AF modes to quickly move to subject tracking mode. To move from single point AF to subject tracking requires you to first enable auto area AF (or one of the eye detection modes).

My workaround for this so far has been to first disable all other AF modes except single point and auto area, then assign AF to the Fn1 button, rotating the front dial while keeping Fn1 pressed to enable auto area AF, and then pushing the OK button to engage the subject tracker.

I’ve also input these settings into one of the user modes, so I rotate the mode dial to engage it. As I said, cumbersome. The performance of the single point AF mode is brilliant. Subject tracking, a little less so.

It’s just not as intuitive as I’d like it to be. If something gets in the way, the subject tracker doesn’t always track back to the subject. I also find it annoying that you have to start from the center to focus on the subject and then recompose while tracking.

I wish one could position the tracking cursor anywhere on the screen/viewfinder. However, since this function is reportedly better in the Z6 II compared to the Z6, I’m guessing that future firmware updates will mitigate this issue.

I primarily shoot in AF-C mode, and the focus point stays red even when focus has been achieved, instead of turning green (it turns green when you use AF-S or manual focus). I can’t for the life of me understand why Nikon did such a thing.

Auto ISO: I set my base ISO to 100 and my ISO ceiling to 12,800, a level at which I can live with the noise. On my old camera, I simply set the shutter speed to 1/100 sec. The Z6 II also has an Auto setting for shutter speed, which basically determines the focal length of your lens and adjusts accordingly.

If the focal length is 50 mm, it sets the shutter speed to 1/50 sec. If the focal length is 24 mm, it sets the shutter speed to 1/25 sec. You can increase or decrease this Auto setting by up to 2 stops so that the shutter speed is 1 or 2 stops faster or slower than the auto setting determined by the focal length.

This is not readily apparent, which is why I’m explaining it here. Nikon should have done a better job of this. I don’t like this setting because the shutter speed changes every time you change the focal length on a zoom lens such as a 24-70 mm.

So, you might have sharp subjects on the street when you shoot at 70 mm, but the same scene could have motion blur if you zoom out to 24 mm because the shutter speed was automatically slowed down. You might not notice this when you review the image on the LCD screen unless you zoom to 100%.

I prefer to set my shutter speed to 1/100 or 1/125 sec and change it when I need to. Battery life: Battery life is obviously much shorter, even with the new EN-EL15c batteries compared to DSLR bodies.

This is understandable because of the juice required to power the EVF and the LCD, since there is no optical viewfinder (this also means you can’t compose your shot while the camera is off or sleeping).

That said, however, one needs to plan accordingly, with backup power when one needs it. The option to power via USB cable is useful because it allows you to use a power bank or an AC outlet while shooting, although this would be limited mostly to situations where your camera stays in one place while you shoot (studio, landscape).

If you’re shooting street or weddings/events, carry spare batteries. Other features I wish were offered: I wish Nikon had provided a rotating dial instead of the 8-point multi-selector on the back of the Z6 II.

Since the focus points in the Z6 II are moved by the joystick (sub-selector) instead of the multi-selector (in DSLR bodies, the multi-selector moves the focus point), and the fact that you can navigate through the menus and settings using the touch screen, I think the functionality of an 8-point multi-selector is largely redundant.

If a dial were provided instead, similar to what one sees on Canon and Sony bodies, this could have been customized for ISO settings, for instance, which would be very useful while shooting in manual mode.

This would be easier than having to press the ISO button and rotating the front dial. Another feature I wish Nikon had provided on the Z6 II is a sensor shield. With the Z mount flange being so close to the sensor, and the fact that there’s no mirror for added protection, changing lenses, especially in the field, always brings with it the risk of dust on the sensor.

A sensor shield should not be a feature reserved only for flagship cameras (the Z9 has one). Nikon should have included one with EVERY mirrorless body. It’s not a luxury, it’s a necessity. Other features on the Z6 II are either comparable to those on previous DSLRs I’ve used, or are features I don’t use much (e.

g. , video capabilities), so I won’t mention them here. Final thoughts: Although I’ve made several points above, it all comes down to whether this camera is good for the photography I do. Does it help me make better pictures (or make good pictures more easily) than my previous D810? Absolutely.

Am I happy with this camera? Absolutely. Do I recommend it? Yes, with conditions. If you, like me, have been a Nikon shooter for years, have a number of Nikon FX lenses, want a full-frame mirrorless camera, and are not ready to switch ecosystems just yet, get the Z6 II.

You will not be sorry, and you will not go wrong. If you’re not as invested in Nikon glass as I am, I would recommend taking a few competitors (Sony a7 IV, Canon R6 and Panasonic S5) out for a test drive too.

I’m not saying these cameras are better or worse than the Z6 II. They’re all very good. It all depends on personal preference – your level of comfort with the user interface, the availability of lenses, the 300-500 dollar difference in price between these different models, etc.

A camera like this was truly a fantasy when I got into DSLR video in 2010 with a T2i, and a 5D Mark II shortly after. Then I moved to the 5D Mark III. And while they were great at the time they were still cameras first and I mainly shoot video.

After some time it became too hard to ignore the fact that Canon was falling behind Sony and Panasonic when it came to video. So I bought an A7SII in 2016 and mostly loved it. The video quality was a massive improvement over the 5D3, low light performance was absolutely insane.

The color however wasn’t so great and I’d still take Canon’s out of the box color any day of the week. And the battery life was horrific. As frequently as Sony updates it’s cameras I figured the A7SIII had to be right around the corner, but it didn’t show up.

So when the A7III came out I grabbed it and was happy to have way better battery life, and it was razor sharp footage but again the color wasn’t so great. I remember talking with a friend about what the A7SIII specs could be like, and he thought there was no way it would do 4K120 or 10-Bit, but I was optimistic since the GH5 was 10-bit and you have to be competitive in this space.

So the A7SIII specs finally dropped and wow it had literally everything I could have ever hoped for. Articulating screen, 10-Bit, 4K120, improved color, full sized HDMI, etc. And nowadays people immediately start complaining about every camera when specs get released, but wow this had to be the least complained about camera of all time.

I had preordered the R5 when it was announced, but after the overheating issues came to light I was hesitant and immediately cancelled and preordered the A7S3 when I saw the specs. It showed up and I took it out for some shoots and was in love right away.

The 10-bit color is just beautiful, that’s the biggest improvement imo. And 4K120 with no crop and no massive loss in sharpness is a joy to work with. I absolutely love this thing and cant recommend it enough.

Now I’m trying to decide whether to keep it or get an R5C. I still shoot stills on my 5D3 and have a way better selection of EF lenses (16-35 III, 24-70 II, 70-200 II, 50L, Zeiss 50 f/2 Macro, 85LII, 135L).

Sony I only have the 24-70GM, 24-105 and 12-24 f/4. So I could sell all my Sony stuff and my 5DIII and have enough for the R5 and still have $ leftover and have a way better selection of lenses and a better stills camera and that beautiful Canon color.

Now that I type this it sounds crazy not to switch, but it’s hard to drop a camera that I love so much. Anyways, if you’re considering the A7S3 just buy it, you wont be sorry.

I’ve been using the Sony NEX/Alpha series of cameras ever since ditching our used and abused Canon 5D mkii for the much lighter, slightly more annoying to use NEX 5n. At the time, E-Mount was limited – there were probably only a dozen or so lenses available for it.

Never-the-less, we bought two of these cameras to document our 10,000 bicycle ride from Los Angeles to Rio de Janiero. At the time, despite their flaws, these cameras were a big deal – affordable, could adapt any lenses, could shoot up-to 60p in 1080 and most important – they were TINY.

Anyway, that was back in 2012, and a lot has changed in 8 years. Here’s what this camera does for me, a professional videographer running a small production company: THE GOOD: – Just the right mixture of capability/size.

– Updated codecs! Its taking a while to get all the different profiles and formats dialed in, we’re currently shooting HLG and sometimes SLOG3. Great dynamic range. – Updated menu, I’m still getting used to it.

To be honest I was totally acclimated to the older menu but I do understand people’s frustrations with it. – We also love being able to mount the XLR-K3M on this camera DIGITALLY, without any cables.

– Unlimited recording – Designed for video first, bonus that you can take nice photos for most purposes if you don’t rely too heavily on cropping images in post. – We have lots of Sony glass already and there’s a huge selection of lenses for e-mount now.

– 10bit, 422, 4k120 with less rolling shutter – Small, tidy package that will also compliment cinema cameras like the FX9 and be compatible with all the same lenses. – INCREDIBLE viewfinder. THE AVERAGE: – Gyro stabalization.

I know everyone is raving about it and IT IS EXCELLENT. BUT: The Sony Catalyst software is terrible and slow and adds a huge extra step into the process. It also WILL NOT CURRENTLY WORK WITH THE XAVC-HS format, and stabalization only works upto 60fps and you need to be using a higher shuttle speed, keep that in mind! When this tool can be baked into the camera with the same functionality to instantly change it (AND REVERT) that will be a wonderful day.

– I actually don’t love the flip screen as much as everyone else does, we don’t vlog so we’re always behind the camera and while the old screens were terrible, I would actually like to see a little innovation here giving it a wider range of angles, and I’d love for it to be bigger and higher resolution.

When the screen is flipped out I get nervous I’m going to forget and knock it on something breaking it. THE BAD: – I actually can’t think of anything straight up bad. Will update review after all my nitpicks have been fully realized.

Overall, I’m very happy with this purchase – it’s a mature, refined version of these cameras that we’ve known and loved for almost a decade. Being able to shoot 4k 120p, or 240p in 1080 is a huge deal for us and the work we do, and being able to do that in 10bit is so important because it gives us the ability to focus on the content.

In the 80’s I had a Canon F1 and dreamed of a Leica R3 and Leica optics unattainable in price. a well-known photographer from Prentice Hall suggested that he pay attention to Olympus because their lenses, according to him, were of equivalent quality.

Years later I bought the Olympus OM4T with 5 fixed lenses 21-2. 0, 28-2. 0, 50-1. 4, 100-2. 0 and 90 macro 2. 0, a camera that had incredible 7-point multispot reading, the flash synchronized at all speeds, the body in titanium a small body with dreamlike optics.

conclusion I sold the Canon F1 and all its optics. Then I decided to enter the world of autofocus, I bought the Canon EOS 1N, I found myself using the Olympus again despite the Canon’s autofocus, conclusion, I sold the Canon and continued with the Olympus.

I joined the digital era and bought the Canon 5D and then Mark ll with 6 lenses, I thought of trying the Olympus OMD EM1, again I found myself using the Olympus and staying at home with the Canon. I switched to the Olympus OMD EM1 mark ll, and bought the Sony 7 All, again I was using the Olympus.

Now I bought this model, and decided for now not to buy another brand. I am not going to go into technical details, which are abundant everywhere. For some strange reason, or not so strange, I always go back to Olympus and believe me they always try to afford another brand, and even force me to have and use another brand of camera.

But naturally and unintentionally, I return to photograph with Olympus, and always the quality of its incredible optics, its comfort, its quality, those great details that you notice when you use and enjoy them and that reading a technical sheet cannot really be perceived.

It is incorporated into your body, into your hands and you only think about the photographic shot that is in front of you or what you are going to look for. And despite the passing of the years I continue to experience the same thing, my mind, my eye, the scene and the photographic camera of this manufacturer that is incorporated as a natural extension of the body almost without realizing it and without perceiving it, but when it is not you have with you the longing My colleagues are surprised that I don’t have a full frame and I don’t understand why they don’t have an Olympus.

The only exception is that for a certain photograph I have to resort to my Hasselblad H6X, but that’s another story.

This camera is a head spinner! Everything that you can think of. I thought I might want more resolution in the viewfinder after having used a mirror all my life, but I quickly got used to the screens – they are VERY much adequate to the task.

I do macro and bird photography – the hand-held, internal stacking is magnificent and is one reason why I went for this camera to begin with. The other is that I perpetually carry gear with me on the trail – over time heavy gear is really unpleasant and i generally either did macro or tele, but never both, because of that.

This camera is a game changer in being able to do both. Its well built but LIGHT – I LOVE it. I also instantly jumped my Pentax 300mm prime to a 600mm prime, and I see what appears to be an incredibly stabilized Olympus 300mm prime in the crystal ball showing my future.

Full frame is just not relevant for most uses. Whining about this camera’s viewing screen res dimensions, as some reviewers have done, is nothing but loud-mouthed BS in a commercial numbers game. Don’t waste your time on snootishly overpriced Nikons or Canons – this beauty has it all in one amazing package.

I’ve used lensrentals. com for about 10 years to rent lenses but this was my first time renting a camera. I was asked to photograph a wedding and only have crop sensor cameras so I wanted to rent something better and I’ve been intrigued by the mirrorless cameras.

It came with a fully charged battery plus the charger. I put the battery and my SD card in and took one test photo of my cat in the kitchen and immediately fell in love with this camera. (I shot on aperture priority at 2.

8, auto ISO, which ended up being 25600, then took a photo with my 70D aperture set at 2. 8, and the auto ISO was 6400 and that image looked noisier than the one taken with the R6. ) Some people had said there was a slight learning curve with a mirrorless camera so I watched some YouTube videos and looked up info about the R6 on websites.

Lens Rentals also included a double sided laminate guide, which I sat down with the camera and went through each section so I could physically see and get a feel for the menu options, etc. Having used Canon products for over 20 years, it felt very familiar and I was pretty comfortable.

I had also heard it might take time for your eyes to get used to the electronic view finder, but I was fine with it. I’m not used to just using a screen to capture the shot so I really only used the screen when I was doing playback to make sure my settings were good.

There are some advanced settings that I didn’t really get to explore in the 4 days I had it but I hope to be able to buy my own in the near future. I rented this with the control ring adapter plus the 24-70mm f/2.

8L II, 70-200mm f/2. 8L IS III, 85mm f/1. 8, and didn’t have any issues. (I didn’t rent the RF lenses because I was using my camera as a second camera so I wanted to be able to use the lenses with both cameras.

) I used the 85mm f/1. 8 to photograph my niece’s cheer expo with and the 24-70mm f/2. 8L II was on the R6 all day for the wedding, it was a great combo. Customer service was great as usual. My order arrived a day early so I got to explore it for an extra day which was a plus.

Finally! I’ve been a photography enthusiast for many years. I’ve made a little money, but never enough to justify buying the dream gear. I had always shot on crop factors (40D, 7D, 80D, etc) to save a bit of money, while jealous of those walking around with whatever 5D was the top dog at the time.

My first foray into mirrorless was another brand that looks retro and is relatively small in the hands. I was happy to have the mirrorless capabilities, but it was never quite accurate enough in the autofocus world and I always had a little bit of trouble getting the colors I wanted in Lightroom.

Then came the R6. I was so happy I held on to my Canon glass. It had all the button familiarity of my 7D, but with the performance I had only dreamed of. Eye focus is insane. Touch screen auto focus selection is incredible.

To be able to capture my son playing soccer running full speed down the field with my old 70-200 and lock on his eye and capture as many frames as I want (all in focus at 2. 8) — incredible. Did I wish it had more megapixels? Kind of.

For the times I want to crop really tight, yes. But for the speed at which my aging laptop can still whip through the RAW files, no. And honestly, I have cropped tight enough on a few images that I was a hair nervous printing at a 16×20 size — but then only to realize they printed beautifully.

I’d buy it again in a heartbeat.

This is a top-of-the range camera, capable of amazing pictures even on my first shoot, but as expected, it has a lot of features that are only needed occasionally, and it will take a while to get to know them, and so far I have only used a fraction of its facilities.

The Micro four-thirds technology means it is considerably smaller, lighter and cheaper than a 35mm camera with similar performance. The lenses are less than half the weight for similar performance! Although it is a 20MP sensor, it can use the image stabilizer to take four pictures 1/2 a pixel apart and merge them to get 80MP pictures.

! No doubt there are situations where fill frame would be better, but they are obscure corner cases like taking very high resolution stills in poor light without a tripod. For me this is outweighed by the ability to take pictures with less preparation – meaning more valuable pictures in a shorter session.

Remote operation from a smart phone is well implemented and extremely useful. I bought it to take professional stills, and it is everything I could want for that, but I do intend to also use the video facilities in the future, which are also top-of-the-range.

The biggest let-down is that Olympus support for Linux is very poor.

Had been undecided between D750 and D810 for a while. After reading lots of reviews and weighing my personal preference on image quality, colour fidelity and it’s native ISO of 64 for high contrast landscape shooting.

D810 was my final pick and it does meet my expectation with stunning image contrast I have not been able to capture in my previous D5100 and the current D7100. I am not a pro but often being amazed by the stunningly beautiful images printed in BBC Natural History Series Books of my collection.

I know D810 is not the camera for those gorgeous BBC wildlife shootings but really wanted to get a pro camera for great images. D850 is very attractive but costs more than twice what I could get a used set of D810.

I’d been too used to scene modes and most of the time using only Auto mode in my cropped sensors and I did not pick up much of the photography skills until D810 came on board since it’s a pro-grade camera and I am now forced to make settings, adjust exposures, apertures, ISO and so on which I find it a fun to do so and the best thing is I can get the exposure and colour I like from settings.

Happy with D810’s capability of sharpness, the colour accuracy, and the beautiful bokeh on fast bright lenses! The attached are taken with Nikkor 24-120mm F4 VR and Sigma 85mm F1. 4 EX DG.

Great camera. Excellent ergonomics and feel. Excellent control over exposure. Just enough pixels. Just enough video capability. But most of all, a very reliable still photo camera that does the job every day.

Good battery life. While I have newer, more expensive cameras, this one is a joy to use and I prefer it over the newer, supposedly more capable models. Think about it : you need to adjust ISO, Aperture, and Shutter Speed, with occasional exposure compensation and flash output compensation – and all of my cameras do that.

I do not need or care about Wi Fi or phone app control – that is nonsense – the camera has its own controls and they work swell. Why get all complicated trying to run it with a cell phone – nuts. This is a good, solid, accurate camera.

What more do you need? Pick one up used with a clean sensor and you have all the camera you need. JR.

I purchased this camera to replace my Canon20D that finally gave up the ghost. So far, I’ve spent $160. 00 additional dollars to bring it up to par. Some required like replacing a cracked LCD screen cover and other items to make it more versatile and useful in professional applications.

I’m awaiting an owners manual and an Scandisk memory card to begin using it. I’ll know more about it once I have those items in my possession. I will say that I bought it “AS IS” and knew that there would be a learning curve as it is far more sophisticated than the 20D that I replace it with.

Once I have everything I need to get up fully up and running will I know if it has additional problems other than those listed when I bought it.

The camera is what you expect from Canon – good build quality, excellent image quality and relatively easy to use in basic mode. There are a host of more advanced features that require a bit more experience but these are soon mastered.

The articulated screen is particularly useful. The 60d is easy to handle and not too heavy, so can go with you on a long outing. I have yet to be disappointed with it. Very good video quality.

In my opinion the Nikon D200 is the best camera ever made. There are lots of better camera choices and you have to place the D200 in time context of 2005/6. Moving from Fuji film I loved the CCD processor image quality.

I say loved because I sold my original D200, a story you will hear time and time. This is a buying back nostalgia. I have a D300 that has a CMOS processor as most cameras do now. Sharper images with more and more pixels don’t always add up to the picture you want.

It’s great to have an old friend back!.

After half a century in photography, my first and until recently only Nikon camera was a D800, which in 2012 made me abandon film and go digital for serious photography. Before that I worked with medium and large format film, and I sell my prints up to 8 feet wide, so I need the pixel count.

However, lockdown boredom made me curious about some of the predecessors to my D800, and as they are now available for a song on eBay, I decided to try them out since I already have the lenses and other kit to use with them.

And you know what? I love my new, old D200 and 300. Not for my largest prints, but theyre much better and more enjoyable than compacts for smaller scale photography. A dozen or so megapixels is fine for that, and fitted with a 35 or 50mm prime, theyre no bother to carry around.

All right, not pocket sized, but in my film days, my walkabout camera was a Hasselblad, so a D200/300 with a small lens is no problem. In fact, its good to hold a proper tool in my hand instead of a dinky toy, and the DX crop turns my nifty fifty into an excellent and compact 75mm portrait lens – lighter and less intimidating than an 85mm on the D800.

Im still glad I didnt fork out thousands on these cameras back when they came out, but a decade and a half later its a different matter. Get yourself one for less than we used to spend on film in a week, have fun and make some nice pictures while youre at it.

A few years ago I bought a DSLR. A Nikon D1X. A monster but very impressive and of course I boasted that it was a Professional Camera. Having bought four lenses for it, including the 80-200mm f2. 8 ED, it occurred to me that if my D1X packed up, I dont have anything to use them on.

My film cameras are Leicaflex. Looking on Ken Rockwells website, I saw how he praises the D200. So I bought one as backup. The first thing that I noticed was the bigger, brighter screen. Also, not as heavy as the monster.

Id love a D3X but they are 695-995 for cheaper ones. I thoroughly recommend the D200.

The D60 Nikon is an excellent value for the money even now, years after the last one was made. I have a D60 purchased used through eBay for what a broken 3200 would cost. I also have a new 3200 at work, and honestly, this camera is just as good with its pictures for the internet auctions I photograph.

Don’t let the 10. 2 MP rating scare you unless you plan to make huge banner size prints. The smart move is to buy this one, spend your money on lenses,accessories and maybe even some photo editing software, and spend a LOT less than the new 3300 Kit retails for.

Check the Rockwell site (or others) for lens recommendations. most compatible lenses can be had for less than $150 and many for under $50. Occasionally you can buy film cameras with lenses pretty cheap too.

Keep the lens, then give the camera away. Once you master the D60, you are ready to trade up when the opportunity arises. Or just stick with it if it makes you happy like mine does! (Don’t make the mistake of buying a D70 thinking it will be better, as it has a CF Card socket that is notorious for failure and SD cards are smaller and easily obtained.

There’s a reason the D70 and D70s are a dime a dozen on the web, and the D60 is harder to find for cheeeep) Get a good one with low shutter count and you won’t regret it at all. Nikon hit a home run with this entry level DSLR!.

If you are looking for a good camera with a good starter kit set of lenses, light, portable and easy to use, this is a good option. No, it is not a prosumer set but it takes great photos with the standard set of lenses found in the kits; 18-55mm and 55-200mm lenses.

I have shot with this using a Targus grip and it is still light and quite portable. I typically use mine with an “all day lens” being a Tamrom 18-270 and it’s great for what it is. I also have enlarged photos up to 13×19 with little to no issues with quality.

If I were on assignment or doing professional work, this is not the first choice, however. That said, it isn’t meant to be. First time user? Get it, save money on your first camera body and invest in lenses from the start that will move to your next camera body (say a D7200, for example).

Remember, this is a cropped sensor camera that requires the motors for autofocus to be in the lenses themselves. It does not have an in body motor function. But that is what makes it so light and inexpensive.

May not have all the bells and whistles of a modern dSLR but still a solid camera at a bargain price. If you are a serious photographer, this camera is more than enough for great pictures. Stop wasting your money on features you will never use.

If you are a good photographer, none of the modern dSLR will make you a better one. The Nikon D60 is the right size at the right price.

The D500 is a great APSC camera, arguably the best of its type on the market. Why, it’s fast writing to card and deep buffer, its ability to shoot at 10 frames per second. You can shoot 200 raw files in a single burst and on releasing the shutter button and refocusing it’s ready to go again.

Not that you will want to burst 200 frames in one go, but its more than capable. I primarily use mine as a backup body to my D5. The D500 shares much with the D5 namely the auto focus system and expeed 5 processer.

As the D500 is a 1. 5 crop censored camera you get greater reach. So a massive advantage is that smaller primes can be used for example the Nikon 200mm to 400mm f4 prime zoom becomes a 300mm to 600mm lens that you can hand hold or the 300mm 2.

8 Nikon prime becomes a 400mm. These lenses are not only more affordable to buy but are easier to use in the field. The full frame or FX Nikon camera bodies don’t give you the same level of crop as the DX even the D850 crop isn’t as good as the D500.

So more reach and smaller prime lenses make for quite a impressive package, if you’re having to walk miles to image your subject and you don’t want to be stuck on a tripod or mono pod if your shooting birds or erratic subjects.

That brings me onto the auto focus and tracking. The 153-point tracking is sublime, tracking is effortless when its set up right and with a little practice. I’ve obtained better results in the field here than with the D5 where the same auto focus system doesn’t cover the entire view finder like it does with the D500.

The D500 has decent dynamic range and like most Nikons is great in low light. I would say too, buy the best quality glass you can. Sigma global visons lenses are ok but only if you program them with the dock first, most folk don’t and then slate the lens.

This is a decent budget lens to get you started with zooms. The 150mm to 600mm is a great starting point, plus the contemporary variant of that lens is quite light. Ideally you’d want a prime f4 or 2.

8 to get the most out of this camera. Battery life is ok, but buy a spare. A hard day’s shooting will see off a fully charge battery. A spare battery is around the £50. 00 mark and cheaper than a battery grip which is several hundred pounds.

The touch screen is good too nice and sharp plus its quite flexible to use if shooting above over head or down on the floor say for macro. Snap bridge and connectivity is great, plus you can hook the D500 up to studio lighting and use external shutter release.

There’s not much to gripe about with this camera, only that the video is poor, yes it shoots 4k video, but if you shoot a lot of video this isn’t for you. Nor if you primarily shoot landscape. I would recommend FX for landscape and the Nikon D850.

However, get prime lenses for that, as you will pay the price in technique and inferior glass given its 45-pixel sensor. Other than the video there’s nothing to not like. Ergonomically it’s great, with great weather sealing and reliability.

My D500 hasn’t missed a beat since I bought it in 2016. I should say this camera doesn’t come with a built in flash nor does it come with any gimmicks like creative modes, fully auto modes or lazy function.

So not for the novice user, I’d buy the lower to midrange bodies and progress up to this one personally to get the best out of it. In summery then, if your subject is wild life primarily, this is the camera for you.

You have the shutter speeds and auto focus system and frames per second. Get the best glass you can afford and with practice you can get amazing results. No it’s not a D5 in miniature but it packs one hell of a punch for its price.

It’s outperformed the D5 in the field in certain situations and it’s the go to camera for me if I’m hiking to get the shot I need. I hope you’ve found this review informative. If this camera fits your requirements, then you will not be disappointed.

I like aviation. I take pictures of airplane both on the ground and in sky. I choose D500 because its fast continuous shooting capability. I waited quite a while since D500 has been on backorder quite long time.

Once I got it, I took it for a try. Without doubt, the fast shooting mode is incredible. I love it. But I noticed a problem: the exposure seems a bit off. The pictures appear dark, darker than my old D7100.

The color is not bright and not vibrant. In the past, I was so pleased to see the difference between D80 and D7100. But to be honest, D500 is not as good as I expected. I contacted Nikon. i wish they can help me to solve my problem.

This camera might be 7+ years old, but it’s still highly sought after, so holds it’s value well. Easy to use. Great image quality. Uses EFS lens mount so lots of lenses are available. Original battery still works well, however the charger won’t charge an aftermarket battery if it can’t communicate to it.

I have a new aftermarket battery which the original charger won’t charge. New original batteries are very expensive. I have an aftermarket mains power adapter so I’m good for home/studio. Extensive manual for more in-depth advanced features, and customised menu configuration.

20. 2MP APS-C ‘Dual Pixel CMOS AF’ sensor DIGIC 5+ image processor ISO 100-12800 standard, 25600 expanded 7fps continuous shooting, burst depth 65 JPEG / 16 Raw ‘Silent’ shutter mode 1080p30 video recording, stereo sound via external mic 19-point AF system, all points cross-type, sensitive to -0.

5 EV 63-zone iFCL metering system 98% viewfinder coverage, 0. 95x magnification, switchable gridlines and electronic level display Fully-articulated touchscreen, 1040k dot 3″ ClearView II LCD, 3:2 aspect ratio Single SD/SDHC/SDXC card slot Built-in Wi-Fi (I love this) Single-axis electronic level Built-in flash works as off-camera remote flash controller AF microadjustment (can be set individually for up to 40 lenses, remembered by lens serial number) In-camera High Dynamic Range and Multiple Exposure modes (JPEG-only) ‘Creative Filter’ image processing styles, previewed in live view The 20-megapixel resolution is Canon’s highest to date for an APS-C sensor, and the sensor design is radically different to anything we’ve seen before.

Each pixel not only measures the intensity of light, but also the direction, with each one made up of two photodiodes facing left and right. This helps the sensor to perform phase-detect autofocus, determining not just whether the image is in focus, but also, if not, by how much.

It means the lens can jump straight into focus rather than shuttle back and forth in search of a sharp picture. Phase-detect autofocus is already available in all modern SLRs when using their viewfinders, but in most cases it’s disabled in live view mode.

The 70D’s ability to perform phase-detect autofocus directly on the sensor makes it much faster than the 60D to focus in live view mode. We’ve seen this technique a few times before, most recently on the EOS 700D.

However, previous implementations have been limited to a few dedicated phase-detect points dotted across the sensor. What’s special about the 70D is that almost every pixel can contribute to phase-detect autofocus.

The active area is quoted as 80 per cent of the frame, horizontally and vertically – you can’t place the autofocus point right at the edge of the frame. The new autofocus technology is great news for photographers, but it’s potentially even more exciting for videographers.

The 70D’s video autofocus was the most responsive we’ve ever seen from a large-sensor camera, adjusting in less than a second when we moved the autofocus point using the touchscreen. There was no sign of focus hunting, and face detection and subject tracking helped us follow moving subjects – although once again, it was a little unreliable.

I LOVE IT. !!!.

This camera came with a power grip as an extra and represented excellent value for money. It gets extremely positive reviews from professional photographers who use it and I think I can see why. There was no manual supplied, and I downloaded a Pdf version from Fujifilm.

I found this quite confusing and unhelpful in places and have since bought two books written about the camera. It has so many operating controls , some of which can be re-programmed, and a menu system which will take quite some time for me to study.

I thought I knew cameras, having had Canons for many years, but this is a good deal different. I am looking forward to getting to grips with it and being comfortable with its operation. Using a selection of vintage lenses with adapters just adds another layer of complication.

Glad I bought it though. Everyone needs a challenge!.

My first new camera since my Pentax d100. It is just as easy to use though it has a lot more features, which I am still learning. The kit lens (18-55) is a big step up from the previous pentax zoom , especially in controlling chromatic aberration.

I don’t anticipate ever needing anything capable of sharper images, especially since I don’t do much cropping, preferring to compose the frame at the time of capturing the image. The camera and lens appear to be nearly mint, and everything was shipped and delivered on time.

Happy customer.

So I have been around for a while and used Nikon ff apsc, film, micro 4/3 Samsung NX. but always wanted a Fuji with the xtrans sensor. The fuji is kind of pricy but using the camera comparison tool I was impressed by its size.

It is quite close to the larger panasonic M4/3 bodies. Whe it went on sale I could afford one. The camera is very well made and fit and finish are excellent. The image quality is superb, low noise, great color and lots of fun options with the film simulations.

I am somewhat competent with pp but have found the baked in settings and jpegs very good. I wanted a small setup so got the 28 pancake and it is a really small package. I have other lens zooms and primes and all have been good.

The miniscule 28 is crackerjack sharp and has a very pleasing bokeh. The menu system is good and the ergonomics are especially good for my large hands My panny GX8 is prone to me pushing buttons unintentionally but so far the fuji is better.

I thought I would be sorry for not getting the XH1 for its larger viewfinder and inbody stabilization but it is all working out with the stabilized 18-55 and 50-200. I did buy an lens adaptor and tryed my Micro Nikkor G 60mm and while this lens seems small on my D700 it is a tank on the XT2.

The focus peaking and magnifiyed view work well and image quality was great but I would just get the Fuji macro for its OIS and AF. All the items that I needed were on substantial rebates so I was able to set up a system at less cost than anticipated.

I thought the joystick for moving the focus point would not be useful bit it is a joy to use. The dials for iso, SS, Exp Comp are really a joy to use and I seem to be able to make quick changes while looking through the viewfinder.

Batter life is somewhat short but that is a drawback of most mirroless cameras. I walked 2 miles on the beach then climbed to the top of Big Sable point lighthouse hands and knees out the hatch to the catwalk and my NX300 had a deadbattery.

I have carried extras since that adventure. So I am quite happy with my XT2 and the Fuji experience. The camera comes with a tiny hotshoe flash that works very well in a dining room with 9 foot ceiling and for tripping an Youngnou flash optically.

Of course I have lost the PC cord dust cover, it was loose an I was to busy to tighten it and then it was gone. I will probably never use the PC. I let a friend take some photos with the cam he shoots oly and pentax and he said soon as he held it he knew it was a quality product.

He was able to pick the cam up and just start shooting and did pretty good so I would take that as a plus for the ergonomics and ease of use.

The Nikon D700 was once the flagship of the Serious amateur/professional range. Next to the D3 this camera has the same sensor and processor as their top of the line camera. The photos it can capture are amazing.

It does low light well, and flash photography well. The all magnesium frame make this one tough camera! The weather sealed body makes for the occasional shower while out taking photos no big deal. Nikons lenses are legendary and many of the older AF lenses give tack sharp images at very attractive prices.

The 12. 1 megapixel (more than enough believe it or not) D700 is now at a price point that is very attractive. The learning curve to use this cameras many features is short, especially if you have used a D300 in the past.

I love this cameras easy handling, toughness and image quality.

My first full frame camera and with the 50 mm 1. 8 best budget professional starter kit. What i love with this camera is the amazing battery life , the colors !!! This professional body has the dials outside so for quick changes and also the light up screen to see your settings , Of course this camera is for those who master the (M) mode , if you master the light then you are ready my friend.

And 12 megapixels?!?!?? If you get your composition right then those prints will be awesome even large ones Only bad thing how heavy is the body only, i do work out but not as bad ?.

I am on my second 77D after rethinking my priorities and usage details. I bought the first one to replace a T7i, finding the rear control wheel and the AF ON button to make a large improvement. I have owned and used larger and smaller cameras, but this 77D is my goldilocks “just right” camera for ergonomics.

The menu and controls suit me very nicely. The images suit my needs very well, and I like the 1080p HD video just fine. I especially like the digital stabilization which gives me good results with hand held footage when coupled with an IS lens.

I love the small, lightweight lens choices that provide great results for modest cost. I currently own and use a Canon R6 and regard it very highly also. I love the electronic viewfinder and ibis. I prefer the smaller size and weight of the 77D, and feel that my perfect camera would be a 77D with the EVF and ibis added.

That camera, if available, would also need a similar lens lineup as the 77D enjoys. I purchased a Fujifilm X-S10 thinking and hoping it would be my perfect camera since it is relatively small, lightweight, and includes the ibis, EVF, and fully articulating screen that I prefer.

That camera has great image quality, and all the features I want. but. it just didn’t feel as nice to use. The shape and feel of the body is not as pleasant for me, and the menu and controls are not nearly as nice.

If I didn’t have the R6 I would probably have kept the X-S10 because it really makes nice pictures and has the ibis and EVF. The image quality with the X-S10 is a little better than the 77D, with quite a bit of improvement in high ISO capability.

The 77D is good enough and such a joy to use. By the way, I used the X-S10 for almost a year before selling it and purchasing the R6 as my main shooter. I have also enjoyed using Panasonic M43 cameras (G5, G6, G85) and really enjoy the ergonomics of those gems, but the image quality isn’t quite as nice as the Canon and Fuji APSC sensors.

I bought this 800D (same as T7i) camera specifically to use as a high-end full HD webcam with the EOS webcam utility using USB connection directly to host computer. I searched for any Canon EOS series that supported Dual-Pixel Autofocus with live-tracking face-detection that would work well with the Canon EF-series lenses that I already have.

This model (which is not the current model) meets all my needs and was available at significant discount compared to the newest T8i model (which has additional features I don’t need). I paired this 800D body with the EF 35mm f/2 IS USM lens (which is equivalent to 50mm on a full-frame body).

The face-detection autofocus is better and faster than my 5D IV, or C100 II cinema cameras. It will track all the way to the edges of the image. Silent, fast, perfect focus, continuously, all day long.

I use a dummy-battery with external adapter to power the camera from AC so I don’t have to worry about battery life. The touchscreen flips-out and faces forward, automatically flipping the image so I can monitor what the camera sees (with data overlay and focus box).

I am not using the Auto white-balance. There are limited options for custom white balance on this model, but I am using 5200K to match my light-source, and the resulting color, contrast, skin-tones looks really excellent.

This looks as good as the 5D IV at 6X lower price! Audio: When used as a webcam, regardless of whether you connect an external mic or use the built-in mic – note that you will not get audio out of the USB webcam interface, or the HDMI out.

So plan on using some other source, connected separately to your host computer for audio. This 800D will only provide the video. If you are looking for “clean” HDMI out, it is only possible to get this by turning-off all menu/info displays, AND switching-off autofocus.

If you need the autofocus (the whole point of using the camera), then the HDMI out will have focus overlays. So I would not recommend using this as an HDMI webcam. The EOS Webcam utility over USB works very well, but does have noticeable latency.

If you have the ability to delay your audio to the host, then you can get perfect lip-sync, even with the latency of the USB interface. I have not used this as an everyday DSLR, but I am quite impressed at the nice build-quality, great image quality, and nice compact size.

I might consider this as a travel camera instead of the big, heavy 5D in the future.

I’ve had a couple of 40D, a 60D, and a 70D. I’m no pro but I’m pretty used to Canon products. I just picked up a used 6D. I’ve had it a couple of days now and it’s remarkable how much my photos have improved.

I’m used to getting some keepers when I go walking around but the percentage just jumped. I’m using the same lenses as before. EF mount fit both FF and APS-C after all. In terms of controls, the 6D reminds me more of my old 40D’s than anything else.

Simple to use, you don’t get lost in some silly computer subroutine to go from thing to thing. Yes, it’s nice to have more capabilities to do advanced things but how many of us actually use those advanced features? How many of us just really want better photos without a lot of effort and confusing double talk? I sure do.

The 6D does that in spades. Markedly better with little effort. The attached photos are straight out of the camera except for some cropping on the first day that I really used the camera. I’m going to buy another.

Widely regarded as one of the best non-Pro Nikon DSLRs in recent years, building on the strengths of the already-good D7000. Spend time searching the specialist web sites for reviews about the D7200 and they’ll almost unanimously rave about this model.

Not perfect though. Lack of a flip screen will prove a hindrance for those keen on ‘staged’ photography – such as product, landscape or macro work – where the camera may tripod mounted or otherwise positioned ‘out-of-hand’ meaning getting your eye to the viewfinder requires some contortions on the photographer’s part, would perhaps be better looking at a camera offering that specific facility.

(That said, it is possible to connect your mobile phone to the camera via wifi and use that as a viewfinder. Bit of a faff but doable, so all is not lost. ) However, for an in-hand camera, those looking for a low cost entrance into the world of DSLR photography can do much worse than tracking down a good condition, low shutter oount* unit at a comparatively low-cost when compared to something new.

(* For the D7200, Nikon Claims a shutter life expectancy of 150,000 aotuations). I don’t feel qualified to really offer tips or recommendations, but here are a couple of findings I’ll pass on in the hope someone will benefit: 1) When Choosinga camera, spend as much time – if not more! – investigating lens.

The camera body with its many functions and tricks can only go so far. Lenses are an equally – and often more – important item in the kit bag. 2) Get a sling strap. It won’t improve your photos, but it will make walking around for hours at a time with a zoomed-up DSLR a much, much better experience.

3) Learn how to use your DSLR properly. Seriously; if you aren’t interested in realising the benefits that understanding how manually controlling depth of field, shutter speed, focal points, ISOs, etc, etc can really bring your subject to life, then save some money and buy a decent point-and-shoot compact camera instead.

Pictures can be just as good and you’ll likely have more of them as, being compact, there’s a greater Chance you’ll have your camera with you. Your bank balance will thank you, too :).

The camera does a great job of focusing and exposing right out of the box, and the kit lens has plenty of zoom range for most general photography, plus it is stabilised. The camera feels really good in the hand, and all the controls are easy to get at if/when you want to.

Battery seems to last for ages and only takes a couple of hours for a full charge. The picture quality is lovely – and I’m quite fussy. There’s even a pop-up flash to subtly fill in portraits shot against the light, and it works well left to itself with no fiddling needed.

The camera’s well-shaped grip means you can pick it up quickly and securely with one hand, and turn it on with a finger while bringing it up to your eye; there’s no waiting for it to fire up or for a motorised lens to extend like with a compact camera.

If you wear glasses note that it’s just possible to see all four corners of the viewfinder picture without moving around, but only just. It’s an easy camera to use and understand even without looking at the manual, and I think it would be as good for a beginner as for an enthusiast.

And it does a great job on its own in ‘auto’ if you just want to take pictures without diving into the technical stuff. All in all, ‘Highly Recommended’, and this kit from Harvey Norman is really good value.

10/10.

As an owner of second D750 I’m very happy. I have in last year had a D4,850,Z7 and all a great. The D4 I should have kept. But z7 and D850 are great cameras but way to big of files , and media is expensive.

They also show any weaknesses of non pro level optics because of the intense levels of MPs. The insane iso ranges are something I’ve never ever used. I pair mine with 58 1. 2 noct,50mm1. 4 ais,105 2.

0 ai,180 2. 8 as, 400 2. 8. Also 24 1. 4 g afs,28 -300 afs,50mm 1. 4 af d , Tokina 24-70 2. 8 which is a highly recommended choice. I think 24 mp is more than most people will ever need. And the images captured are on same level as aforementioned previous bodies.

Until you crop to insane levels. Nowhere near as heavy, shots quality video at iso levels that are realistic. And the color rendition is exemplary and typical Nikon. So my summary would be that this is all you’ll need unless your a professional that crops to insane pixel peeping levels.

This was my main camera for years. The only place it’s starting to show it’s age is with live view feeling a little clunky compared to new mirrorless cameras. On commercial shoots I something have to use d810 or d850 or Canons but aside from some extra resolution I’m just as happy with the 750.

I think the weight and balance are perfect. With battery grip and zoom lens it’s a real studio camera, with no grip and small prime lens (35/2 AFd) it’s as light and compact as new mirrorless cameras.

AF in the dark in insanely good. Files are very easy to manipulate. DR absolutely creams fujis crop sensors. I’d say at least a stop better for DR, less noise, etc. Even though I use other cameras (mirrorless and MF) now, I’ll never get rid of this because if you are strobing there’s nothing better that OVF and fast AF.

Battery life is endless.