20 Best Delta 3D Printer Kit (2023 Updated)

My first foray into 3D printing, and I’m bowled over by how good it is. The assembly instructions are extremely easy to follow, and the print area is superb. Once assembled, you can print right away.

You won’t be alble to tear yourself away as your first print slowly appears in front of your very eyes!! I did notice an issue with the Z-axis motor binding, but I pacaked it with a little bit of cereal packet card, and the job’s a good ‘un! It IS built down to a price, but don’t let this put you off.

I guarantee you’ll start your printing life by making enhancements for it, and that’s half the pleasure of owning one. You’ll be bashing out filament guides, fan covers, cable chains, tool holders, and control covers to your heart’s content, as well as designing your own bits and pieces.

You only get a tiny bit of filament with the printer, so order yourself some PLA on the same day you buy the printer, otherwise you’ll be tearing your hair out wasiting for it. I also advise paying a little extra for the filament.

Forget the stuff sold by these guys at around a tenner; it’s too brittle and you’ll waste time printing things that break in your hands. There’s a UK seller who knocks out PLA at about 12. 50 a Kilo, and the difference in quality is palpable.

THere’s only one real downside (in my opinion) and that’s that there aren’t enough hours in the day to play with my new toy!!.

This printer is amazing don’t be put off by the lower price! The printed does require some construction as it comes in parts. But the main bed is already built, the instructions a very easy to follow.

Videos are available if you are a visual learner. When I printed my first 3d model I was blown away from the quality. A solid model, extrusion lines are very faint and minimal imperfections. This printer has a huge community around it, alot of YouTube videos, endless forum posts on how to tweak it.

Also the 3d printable parts to upgrade or customize the printer makes quite engagingand and fun owning this printer My verdict is that it is worth the money! Don’t hesitate to buy this one if your are looking for a robust, quality and popular 3d printer.

For the money it’s a good printer. Arrived with warped print bed, flat spot on the bed guide wheels, this bit was pre-assembled and I think they’d over tightened the adjusting nuts for the wheels. Creality sent a new glass print bed.

warped!!! If only they’d up their game with “Quality Control” Build. it is a sort of kit. Take your time. Instructions show the assembly of the X axis gantry brackets and guide wheels before sliding it onto the Z Axis uprights.

I’d suggest adjusting the brackets wheels one bracket at a time on the Z Axis uprights before assembly. Easier to get a feel for the tightness of the wheels. Use a set square and check the X is square with the Z and make sure all the screws holding the brackets to the X Axis gantry are tight.

you can only reach them while it is off the machine. Get some feeler gauges. stop messing about with bit’s of paper for the nozzle gap to the bed. Get it running smoothly before banging bits of upgrades on.

Hopefully this will help someone.

Purchased yesterday and assembled immediately. Assembly takes some time, if you rush it may take a lot more time to back up and repeat steps. Written instructions are good but 2D images of a 3D thing can be misinterpreted.

Probably should watch video as well as reading. The tool kit quality is great. The first 2 rails for the Y axis are critical, without correct placement the print head will smack into the print bed during z axis calibration.

Operation is extremely quiet, quieter than ink jet printers. Quality of first print was better than expected. As a first time owner/operator of a 3D printer I am impressed with the machine and excited to learn what it can really do.

Things I would improve: – Include a more reasonable test file, no one wants a black vase that take 4 hours to print. – In the manual (or online) include a list of If this, Then that problems and solutions.

If the print head smacks the print surface then revisit the placement of Y axis rails. – Include a small glue stick to simplify getting the first prints off the surface. You gave me enough PLA to play with but without glue stick it’s like sneakers without laces.

I purchased the Snapmaker 2. 0 directly from the website; however, I find it important to spread the word that this product does not live up to expectations. 1. ) The device itself is a jack of all trades, but master of none.

There are specific machines out there that can do each individual task far better. You can spend $1800 on 3 machines and get better results than you can with the Snapmaker. Obviously, the big draw here is the space saving; however, you have to ask yourself, is it truly worth the poor experience to save 16 sqft of shop space? 2.

) The machine is noisy. Like really noisy. I expected noise during the CNC process, but I have to be in the other room with the doors closed to get away from the milling sound. 3. ) The software is utterly unusable.

Check reddit and the snap maker forums. The provided software is the chief complaint. You can find other slicers, but compatibility is iffy. Ask yourself if you’re ok with the headache of a crafting machine being a chore to use instead of a joy.

4. ) This is a half-baked product. The printing bed is easily warped resulting in botched 3D prints. The calibration only works sometimes so you’re never really sure if it will be a success. Expect lots of wasted material.

I cannot abide that level of unreliability. Lastly, the company doesn’t stand by its product. Based on my interactions with customer service, you’re pretty much on your own once it arrives at your door.

They don’t honor promotions and they don’t support the customer. That’s a big no from me.

easy to assemble printing Is easy. make sure you clean the nozzle out real good before using it a 2nd or 3rd time. was making a clicking noise so I thought maybe something was loose but it was just the nozzle being clogged.

took some time to figure out how to upload and splice or however you call downloading the models you want to print. after being patient and learning more I was definitely satisfied. these machines are mind boggling how perfect they can make things.

THANKS.

Printer is in good condition. Heat Bed has some ware spots, which were indicated on photos but still works well. Prints as good as or better than my highly modified Ender 3 Pro.

If you use 3D printers you know there will be ups and downs, if you’re a first time user you need to do a little research into what you’re buying. This is a fantastic machine and performs effortlessly with all my printing needs.

I am more than satisfied with the delivery and service at buybestgear (the printer was with me in 3 days). The only point of criticism is the faulty operating instructions with regard to bedleveling.

Point 17 with reference to M420 S1 Z10 is missing. For this reason, the nozzle left me with slight scratch marks in the middle of the plate during the first print. Nevertheless, I give 5 stars. I will certainly order again from buybestgear and can only recommend this company.

Greeting Dietmar.

It works perfectly like a machine should do out of the box not a bad thing to say about it I love it

Picked this up late on Black Friday. Assembled it over the weekend using both the instructions and the 3D Printing Canada YouTube video. Getting it dialed in is still ongoing. With a less sturdy printer I’d probably never get there.

The struts make it rock solid and the included BLTouch is a huge time saver. Better than the CR-10 5S for those new to 3D Printing with nearly the same build area.

I cannot say enough bad things about this printer. Worked great out of the box. Printed about 15 hours fine. Then everything went south. The filament started backing up into the extruder. So I cleaned it.

And it happened again. And again. And again. Finally I got a couple more solid prints in and the bed just magically became unleveled. Re-leveled just fine and the prints wont stick to the bed. Re-leveled four more times and the same problem each time.

Bought an auto bed-leveler (CR Touch). Installed and upgraded the firmware and now my printer won’t turn on. Leave this trash behind and get something better. I would throw this in the garbage where it belongs except I spent money on it and don’t want it to go to waste.

F this B.

I want to be positive– really I do. After purchasing a CR10S printer and having the extruder quit, returned it for another CR10S, same faulty extruder, I finally settled on a CR10v3, with an all metal hot end.

Just set it up and could not get it to run. Seems the “filament detector” sensor is very poorly designed and a common problem with the v3. I actually jammed a toothpick inside to fool the sensor into allowing filament to pass through it.

Hardly a “milestone” in my book. We’ll see how long this one lasts. Each time I replaced a faulty printer it cost me $100. 00 to purchase new warrantee.

The printer worked great for a week and then the extruder gear suddenly stopped working. After extensive troubleshooting I determined that the extruder’s stepper motor was toast and returned the printer.

Shame that it lasted only 7 days while my Ender 3 Pro has been going strong for 2 years.

OK, so I am new to 3D printing and a novice to the whole process and have only been doing it for a month, so that is my extent of time for this review. My adult son and I each decided to get this printer and picked them up on a special deal.

We physically drove 1 1/2 hours to go to a Micro Center to purchase the printers as the sales price was an instore only purchase. The sales rep we dealt with was great and took his time in explaining the process, the different filaments, some of the challenges to expect, as well as future upgrades we may want to consider for the printer.

He did not use any sales pressure and was patient and very knowledgeable in answering all of our questions. Once starting to put it together there are printed directions included and they were pretty straight forward and all the tools necessary came with the printer.

Of note, there are no printed instructions for the actual operating of the printer. The instructions on operating the printer are on the thumb drive provided. I did not see any notes on that anywhere and that would have been nice to have known as I did not figure this out until later when I went to use the thumb drive.

The small test filament provided is not very good. In fact, I would chuck it and load different filament and not waste my time with it. Also, there is a bed leveling program by Cura that works great.

I recommend using that as well. Once put together and getting bed leveled I was 3D printing. I did have one minor print flaw on one of my first prints when the filament started stringing like spaghetti but I attribute that to the provided filament and it not being on a spool.

I suspect as I do more complex printing this probably wont be my last flaw and there will be more to come. There are a ton of videos out there to assist in putting the printer together as well as ideas on printable upgrades for the printer.

I have already recommended this printer to some friends that are starting out in 3D printing and they went out and bought the printer as well. The service at Micro Center was great and we like the printer so far and would recommend it.

The Ender-3 Pro I bought from Micro Center was well packaged and easy to assemble. However, it had some issues out of the box: 1. It would under extrude due to the extruder motor skipping. 2. The bed was a little warped (expected for most printers).

3. Some preassembled components were assembled incorrectly from the factory (one of the extruded base rails was mounted backwards – easy fix). The first issue was primarily due to a low Vref setting on the stepper driver.

The control boards for these printers uses A4988 drivers and a 0. 15 ohm current sense resistor. Using the Vref = R x 8 x Current Rating of motor formula from the A4988 datasheet yields a Vref of 1. 2V for the 1A extruder motor.

Mine was set to 0. 73V. The X, Y, and Z motors are rated for 0. 8A each, so they each would require a Vref of 0. 96V. The Vrefs for these are easily set via the small potentiometers on the control board (RP4 is the reference designator for the extruder, for example).

The center of the potentiometer is conductive, so you can measure the Vref voltage by touching the probe there and referencing it to DC – (black wire) coming in from the power supply. My X, Y, and Z were all set to less than 0.

55V. I bumped these all up to their proper values and experienced no more extrusion or skipped layer issues due to low drive strength of the stepper motors. At these settings, the stepper motors ran at a comfortable temperature (not at all too hot to touch).

The second issue is common as printer beds tend to warp a bit during heating/cooling cycles. Usually, this is not much, but even a tenth of a millimeter can make a difference. To address this, I purchased a CR Touch Z-axis probe and connected it to the 5-position socket on the control board meant just for this purpose.

These sensors allow you to use this probe to home the Z-axis and generate a bed level mesh to compensate for warped beds – this works very well once you can get it to work. You have to update the firmware on the printer to enable the CR Touch probe.

However, I found the firmware to do this on Creality’s website to be VERY buggy – the Z-offset and bed leveling did not work at all as they gave highly erroneous values to these parameters. To correct this, I had to download Marlin bugfix 2.

0. 9. 3 and compile it with the features used for this 3D printer in configuration. h and configuration_adv. h files (there are specific ones pre-generated for the Ender-3). I found this to be a somewhat complex/tedious process.

I (H5Labs) posted compiled binaries at https://github. com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/issues/23806 in case anyone wants to just download, update, and go. I provided two versions there; one that supports a CR Touch/BL Touch probe and one that is completely stock as the Creality stock firmware is quite buggy.

There is also information at this link that tells you how to set your Z-probe offset when using a CR Touch/ BL Touch. These changes alone get this printer working very well. Additional changes that improve it further making it a true “diamond” include: -Dual-Gear extruder: The factory extruder is plastic and is prone to breaking or losing its tension over time.

An ideal extruder is the Bondtech extruder, which gears down providing more than 3x torque (I implement these on all my 3D printers – I never have extrusion issues afterwards). But, there are other less expensive dual-gear options out there I’ve tried with great results.

If you DO change out to a dual-gear extruder, you will likely need to change out your extruder motor to a Creatlity 42-40 stepper motor without the gear installed as these tend to have a shaft length of about 20mm.

The one that comes stock on these printers has a press-fit gear on them and the shaft is only about 15mm, which is too short on which to install the dual-gear drive gear. -Enclosure: a nice enclosure such as the Creality 445x565x685mm enclosure helps to prevent warping on larger (X/Y) prints as it retains heat in the enclosure.

-Z-axis support rods: These attach to the base legs and the top of the Z-axis extrusions to make the structure a lot more rigid. This helps minimize vibrations for taller prints. -Silicone Bed Mounts: The bed springs that come with the Ender-3 are not great – their spring constant tends to change over time/use.

Silicone bed mounts are inexpensive and implement a semi-rigid bed mount. You can still adjust to get it roughly level and it is more likely to stay consistent with these. -3D printed parts: You can find lot of upgrades on sites like www.

thingiverse. com that you can 3D print yourself. Personally, I like the cable chains – helps tidy up all the wiring. Other items to consider: • Route signal wires away from motor wires as much as possible to minimize noise induction.

• The dual-gear extruder drive gear has a smaller diameter than the original drive gear that comes with the 3D printer. This is a good thing as it results in higher torque capability to apply more force to push the filament.

However, this also requires adjustment of the Extruder steps/mm. For the stock motor/extruder, this value is between 93 and 100 steps/mm. For the dual-gear extruder, this needs to be increased to about 135 steps/mm.

Use the LCD control to set the steps/mm (Configuration -> Advanced Settings -> Steps/mm -> Extruder). o To properly calibrate this setting, use a G Code sender program such as Pronterface (connect PC to Printer via USB).

 For the dual-gear extruder specified above, start with 135 Steps/mm. For the stock extruder, start with 93 Steps/mm. For a Bondtech type (3:1 geared) extruder, start with 415 Steps/mm.  Preheat nozzle to ~200C  Measure 120mm of filament from the extruder inlet – mark this point on the filament  Extrude 100mm of filament using the following G Code commands: • M83 ;This sets relative positioning mode for the Extruder • G1 E100 F100 ;This makes the extruder move ~100mm over about a minute.

 Once done, measure the distance between the extruder inlet and the mark on the filament – this should be 20mm if the steps/mm is set correctly. If it is less than 20mm, the steps/mm is too high. If it is more than 20mm, the steps/mm is too low.

You can calculate what the steps/mm should be based on your measurement via the following: • Steps/mm = (Total steps) / (100 – Actual extrusion length) where: o Total steps = your steps/mm value x 100 (i.

e. for 135 steps/mm, this would be 13,500). o Actual extrusion length = 120 – the distance you measured between the extruder inlet and the mark on the filament (i. e. if you measured 18mm, this would be 120 – 18 = 102mm).

 Change your Extruder steps/mm based on your calculations, if needed. Store settings to EEPROM using the LCD controls (Configuration -> Store Settings), otherwise the old settings would be restored at the next power up.

• I recommend using Prusa Slicer for the slicer software. The Ender-3 comes with an SD Card containing Cura, which is also a slicer. But, I find Prusa Slicer to be better supported and easier to get going.

Plus, it has pre-configured machine settings for the Ender-3 with a BL Touch sensor (BL Touch and CR Touch are interchangeable and are essentially the same thing – however, the CR Touch has a more robust metal probe as compared to the plastic probe of the BL Touch).

• Also note, when printing with PLA (the most common plastic), the extrusion multiplier should be set to about 0. 9 if the extruder steps/mm is calibrated properly (if set to 1. 0, this can cause over extrusion, which can result in shifted layers during printing).

For ABS (a higher shrink-rate plastic), this would be closer to 1. 0. • If the 3D printer is configured for using a CR Touch, BL Touch, or EZABL bed leveling sensor, the starting G Code script in the slicer software should include the following two G Code commands: o G28 ;Auto home all axes.

o G29 ;Generate a bed leveling mesh – this should be done after preheating the bed and nozzle. The starting G code script is added to every single sliced G code file. Hope this helps. -D. J.

Is this the absolute latest model printer by Creality? Definitely not. But is it still a reliable entry machine for those looking to begin 3D printing? You betcha. I’ve owned four different printers since I joined the hobby, and while the Ender 3 Pro isn’t going to stand out much from a crowd of more expensive printers in terms of functionality, there’s absolutely no denying that once you’ve got the printer dialed in properly and you feel comfortable with what you’re doing, the Ender 3 Pro is going to serve as a total workhorse.

Pros: -Very well priced, especially if you catch it on sale -Quite a large print area, even compared to much more “premium” printers -Can easily handle PLAs and PETGs -Lots of opportunity for upgrading to make the machine feel personal -Aluminum extrusions make for a solid machine -Literally one of the most popular printer lines in the world, so there’s tons of support videos and articles out there -Constructing the printer is easy and relatively straightforward Cons: -Bed leveling can be a little daunting for someone new -Upgrades are almost essential if you want to do substantial printing –Specifically, there’s a motherboard upgrade that makes the printer whisper-quiet (except for the fans), and you may want to add an automatic bed leveling device, like a BL-touch, or change out the springs on the bed to something that keeps your level longer -Potentially some QA issues if you’re unlucky -No included filament beyond the customary sample for printing a sample print or two My personal experience: I enjoyed the set up process, and I was printing almost immediately after assembly with no issues.

Everything worked fine out of the box. I’d recommend it for both newbies and those looking for a workhorse, with the caveat that you should be willing to get at least somewhat comfortable with tinkering with it.

To be fair, I’m not a novice, I’ve been printing for 6 years and have run everything from enders to anycubic and everything in between. I was looking for a new large format FDM printer and settled on this one.

Picked it up and even out of the box the red flags started showing themselves. Both Z axis screws were bent and the grinding and squealing noise they made should have stopped me in my tracks. Once fully assembled and leveled I decided to really try and make this work.

I greased the screws thoroughly but this eventually proved useless. Leveling the bed wasn’t terrible aside from the noise. The Z offset is easy to manage and the aux and auto leveling works quite well.

That’s about all I have to say that’s nice about it. I changed the bowden tube to Capricorn tube and ensured it was contacting the back of the extruder at operating temperature. The extruder motor is where the issues really made manifest.

It constantly leaked from the nozzle even when retracted. This told me there was a gap between the extruder and tube. Cooled down and cold pulled, and no tell tale blob indicating a gap. Reassembled and still oozing.

I found there’s no reliable way to calibrate the extruder like on other creality machines via the estep formulas. The excessive oozing caused filament to pool around the tip and every attempt to print, with rafts, skirts, brims, anything lead to every single print detaching when the excess filament oozed, cooled and snagged on the object.

I found absolutely no way to combat this, even reports that it’s normal, and while yes I have this behavior with other machines, it’s no where near as bad as this was. I had the printer for a grand total of 24 hours before giving up and returning it.

I know these things are hit and miss out of the box, some work flawlessly, others will be nothing but problematic forever. I don’t have the time to fuss over this, especially considering the pricetag.

I really feel like it could be a good machine and I just got a lemon, not the first one I’ve gotten from creality. They have some serious quality issues and until they’re really addressed I’ll be avoiding another ender or creality product for the foreseeable future.

This printer immediately allowed me to begin printing larger pieces and decreased modeling time by not having to split apart pieces. I am considering buying another. Here’s the good and not so good. Let’s end on a good not and start with the less than wonderful: It takes up quite a footprint.

I suggest having access to all four sides to ensure ease of maintenance and filament changes. I am so used to silent stepper boards and fans that I was a little taken aback by how loud the machine is without upgrades.

Lastly, I am still working out the use of Octoprint. I expect some firmware tweaks and additional configuration in Cura to get the remote printing to function as expected. But the good so far outweighs the other: It has a huge bed and allows for many more printing possibilities.

The machine is extremely stable and stays very level. It prints consistently well with all original parts. The quality out of the box is as good as my Ender 3 that is a completely overhauled/upgraded machine.

The ports and screen are easy to access so even if printing locally from a card, it isn’t a problem. The bed also heats consistently from corners to corners. If you find yourself gluing pieces together or scaling down to make things fit, this is a wonderful upgrade.

I just completed a 92 hour print and it performed just as expected without a single glitch.

had this a couple days now and the prints are decent so far. on initial setup 2 things came up that were annoying. 1. small bolts used to mount the bed and filament spool are non magnetic. not as much of a problem for the bed but the filament spool installation is fiddly because the nut will spin freely unless your pulling on the bolt when tightening it down.

2. there is a setting VITAL to leveling which can only be noticed in the print menu its not in the leveling menu. its a vertical offset setting which starts at 2mm or so. so every time i leveled it it got higher and high more distant from the bed.

this setting is not mentioned in the setup brochure. it is mentioned in their setup video which i found but if its so important as to be mentioned in the first minute of the leveling portion of the video, WHY IS IT NOT IN THE BROCHURE? may pick up the quiet board for this, though not sure what it will do about the entire frame humming and thrumming every time the hot end moves.

Easiest 3D printer to set-up and use. Unbox, load filament, auto level, select an item and print. Very high print quality, fully enclosed so very safe, removable bed so prints are easy to remove. Very reliable printer.

So far I’ve been very pleased with this printer. Resolution is decent, accuracy is good, and ease of use is second to none. Definitely would recommend, especially at the clearance price.

Simply Amazing. Little to no hassle 3D printing. Basic-ish software for better or worse. Print quality is top notch. Prints quietly.

Came with a detailed assembly book (written in understandable English) and that coupled with online videos removed any initial intimidation I had. All parts very well packaged and organized. The onboard programmer and software communicate very well with each other.

Again- the instructional videos and directions that come with the product are sufficient. There’s a little bit of a learning curve- mostly getting comfortable with the workflow- but given that it offers a variety of CADCAM modalities- I think that’s to be expected.

Tried all 3 functions- 3D printing- successful- nice finish—comes with a generous amount of black shiny PLA. You can use other types of filament as well. No smell. Only issue encountered was initial layers sticking to platform.

I will be looking into enhancing that with polyimide tape which is pretty economical at Microcenter. The CNC carving worked really nice so far. Pretty fast- minimal smell, minimal dust. The laser engraving looks like it will be able to give amazing results but if you are using wood it will of course result in a significant burning smell- so you need ventilation if your project is going to take some time to complete.

I will be either buying their enclosure or a HEPA vacuum or fan to remove the odor. Changing from one modality to another is not that hard. The most time-consuming part is the removal and replacement of screws that affix the platforms- but even that only takes a few minutes.

Overall I am very pleased with the purchase and it’s certainly a piece of technology that I can grow with for a while and learn how to capitalize on the features contained in the software.

I cannot give it 5 stars because one of the axis modules failed after only 10 days. Their warranty is good and they stand behind their product. The Lubon software included is rather tinker toy and does not work that great.

It has its issues but works well enough. I could not get the image overlay to ever work so placement with the laser was guesswork. On a much brighter note, the packaging is the best I have ever seen on a product like this.

The setup instructions are second to none, and the craftsmanship is superb. It is a little loud but I am under the understanding that the new units will all come with the upgraded quiet drivers. The original 2.

8?W laser is quite interesting to use but the new 10W unit is phenomenal!!! It does NEED an e-stop but one is available as an addon.

Prints out of the box or with minimal adjustment. But only if you don’t get wrong parts inside. Directly from factory. My threaded Z-axis didn’t work with nut – had to wait 1+ month for replacement. Enjoying prints since then.

very pleased with the ender 3, very easy to assemble and worked straight away, no issues at all.

Top banana

Super.

Now that I have had this machine for a few weeks and have printed on it quite a bit, I can say I am greatly impressed. It is easy to set up and get printing right out of the box. CAUTION: I did watch a bunch of videos about 3D printing and of the Ender 3 so I was quite familiar with the machine when it arrived.

I am also learning about the slicers, and other print prep programs that you really need to know to have less stress printing. Leveling the bed is the hardest thing about it and if I can do it, anyone can.

Once the bed is level and the temperatures are set right, this printer will do anything you ask it to do. The only complaint that I would have is the size of the build area. If you want to print fairly large prints for CosPlay, you will have to cut them up into smaller parts which brings in the aggravation of getting all those parts to fit together.

Also, be sure to order filament as the printer does not come with it. It has some test filament but I would not recommend setting the printer up with this as it may be different from the filament you will be running.

If you want to print with PLA or PLA+, this printer will print with that right out of the box. I actually want another one. There are many upgrades and add-ons that are available for this printer, but they are notneeded immediately.

One caveat: I have upgraded the boden tube to a Capricorn and the extruder to an aluminum one. I would recommend doing that ASAP.

I purchased this printer used at about 75% of the cost of a new unit. This was as a replacement to a cheaper (Labists) mini printer once I knew this was a hobby worth pursuing. It has all of the features you should be looking for if you want to get into 3d printing without major hassles: a heated bed, control board, and a community of modders and manufacturers with upgrades.

I was left high and dry with the Labists; I couldn’t get good adhesion, had no real time control of temperature, and the print area was small to boot. Plus, there was hardly any support online. Enter the Ender! This thing is worth the hype.

It’s amazing what features you can get for the base price of $160, let alone the $120-ish you can get this for used. I already had filament so I was up and running in just a few hours. It looked brand new when assembling.

It wasn’t until I tried my first print did I discover existing filament in the hot end, otherwise I would have never known. First tip: watch setup videos. Pay attention to the areas where you need to be precise and align well.

Notably, the angle of the X axis bar has some play to it, so align it as well as you can to the bed so the bed can level with minimal adjustment. Pay attention to the Z stop and know how it works. Make sure the printer is on a level surface and has no wobble.

Leveling is pretty easy but finicky. You’ll have to level every few prints just to make sure something hasn’t moved. In stock, the printer prints with high precision and I was excited to have a few great prints pretty quickly, and I learned more as I used it.

I’m now at a point where I understand issues as they pop up and how to fix them. Luckily, in 3d printing, you know pretty quick if there will be a more common issue, so there’s not much waste. Once you are happy, you’ll find yourself wanting to get more out of it, but at stock this works amazingly well.

Most of the upgrades are not critical but make the process easier. My top 3 recommended upgrades are: 1. ) Tempered glass build plate- better adhesion and release. The stock plate sticks well but almost TOO well, and I hate jabbing at the print with a scraper to get it to release.

2. ) Auto-bed leveling kit- leveling isn’t hard and it gets better the more you learn, but an AL kit just makes the whole process easier. You k kw you will get consistent first layers every time. 3. ) Silent board- I got this because I wanted compatibility with the AL kit without needing an adapter but I ended up loving how quiet the printer becomes as a result.

ALL of the high-pitch whines are gone. It’s almost all fannoise now. It’s great, especially since the printer is in my office where I’m often on Zoom calls. 4. ) The rest are low priority, but you can get a bigger print space with extenders, change to laser cutting/engraving, better extrusion, etc.

Great upgrades but this far unnecessary. The point is that you CAN do those upgrades because they are all available. Buy with confidence. You’ll be printing in no time!.

The printer came in with original packaging (at least for me) with additional bolts, fittings and an instruction manual. The hot end fan burned out however, but it was no hassle to replace and was like 5 bucks on amazon for an OEM part.

Printer was easy and fast to set up and prints great. It is easy to operate and maintain. Printer came in well tuned, so requires little adjustment. The included TF card & USB adapter means you can start printing right away! The card has a few test prints along with the digital copy of the instruction manual and troubleshoot guide.

I use Cura slicer and never had G-Code problems. Fans and motors are rather quiet which is good. Some upgrades I would recommend would be a duel gear extruder and a few 3d printed parts like a motherboard fan guard.

The extruder comes with the “press fitted” gear. You can remover it by holding down the gear from the bottom with a vise or pliers and punch out the shaft with a hammer and a flat rod like a screwdriver.

For $130, you get a great printer that costs way less than a brand new one, that is very reliable and easy to use. You can see in the picture, it can make highly detailed prints (some prints got sanded or painted so they look kinda bad).

Highly recommend while they still last.

I purchased it about a year ago and basically it is a very expensive paperweight! I’ve watched countless videos and read the very minimal instruction manual and yet have not been able to make anything but the one test piece! Every time I think I’ll give it another try it starts the project I put in but craps out halfway through the program! It says it’s user friendly right out of the box but albeit I am very much a novice but i did not agree with that! I had big hopes for this device only to regret buying it.

It is worth noting that in the complete set from the manufacturer there is no stylish suitcase for the tool and spare nozzles. Also there was no glue, although it is listed on the website. Printing from the box with a regular slider with default settings was successful from the first time without any problems.

I did not apply glue to the surface, printed with a backing-it sticks perfectly. After cooling, the model can be moved without problems. I bought at a discount 599 so for the price is really good printer.

Excellent thing, works from box. blue and white PLA were included. I have just some small issues – left nozzle is a little lower than right nozzle and scratches the previous layers on the left side of plate.

Wii-fi connection to access point sometimes does not work without restart, but it seems to me that it is firmware problems and may be fixed soon. It is very comfortable to print via Wi-Fi (printer is connected to wi-fi router).

I paid $1200 for this from an authorized reseller, and it was a good buy at that price. This is awesome for this price. I am seriously thinking about another, though I already have 8 printers.

It works great