GOOD – Strong force-feedback drive – Well constructed, comfortable wheel – Very customizable on PC BAD – Wheel clamp doesn’t work on desks with lips and ront support beams – Pedals don’t stay still on floor – Very limited PlayStation compatibility – Short USB cable for living room use – Loud shifting paddles – Poor documentation As a product in itself, the T248 is pretty good.
The wheel is constructed well, has a comfortable grip, and the buttons are placed smartly for quick and easy actuation. The paddle shifters have a nice, crisp magnetic actuation, but are very clacky and loud.
The wheel does have a display unit, which isn’t common on the less expensive wheel controllers, and can be used to display various things like speed, RPMs, and other info. More on that display later.
The pedal base and arms are plastic, but pretty sturdy, and the pedals themselves are a nice brushed aluminum. You can adjust the pedal face spacing on the arms and the brake pedal has an adjustable spring ( two different springs with a spacer for four stiffness levels.
The throttle and clutch pedals can’t be adjusted unless you do some rudimentary modding yourself. It’s fairly straightforward to setup. The steering wheel has its own wall power brick and connects to your PlayStation or computer with a USB cable.
The pedal unit connects to wheel using a proprietary cable, and the wheel unit has an additional DIN connector so you can add a shifter or e-brake module to the system. The wheel then clamps to a table or desk and the pedal unit sits on the floor.
All the cable connectors on the wheel are un the underside, so you must wire everything up before mounting it, which is annoying. However, to use the system well requires a lot more time and money than one might originally think.
Logitech claims the drive system is 70% more powerful than their previous model, and that seems true as it can generate some very strong force feedback effects. However, that also means the wheel needs to be mounted very sturdily.
A typical computer desk or kitchen table will suffice, but if you want to clamp this on folding table or TV tray so you can play on your couch, forget it. The clamp won’t work well on desks or tables that have a roll lip or support boards on the edge.
The pedals are, frankly, unusable just left on the floor. Even when adjusted to the lightest resistance, the brake pedal is very stiff. The pedal unit will move around more than your Rock Band drum kit.
The base has rubber feet, but isn’t heavy enough to stay put on its own on hard floors. It doesn’t have any sort of hooks or claws to grip carpet. Bracing it against a wall helps a little, but the unit will still rock back and lift up at the front when you press the pedals.
Like the wheel, they need to be securely mounted to actually use. The frames on both the wheel and pedals have standard M6 threaded holes for bolting them to other surfaces, and that’s the real crux of the T248.
Though it’s supposedly marketed as an “entry-level” or “low-budget” FF wheel, it’s designed to be used in sim racing frames and cockpits. Even if you don’t go for a full simulation setup with surround displays and a 5-point harness seat, you’re still looking at a couple hundred dollars to buy a basic frame for the wheel and pedals.
If you’ve got carpentry or welding skills, you can make yourself one for less, but that’s still costly in materials and especially time. Gaming compatibility can be a mixed bag, depending on platform.
On PC, you can use it pretty much however you want since you have full access to the device’s control panel and configuration. Sadly, the documentation explaining things is practically non-existent. Case in point, the manual uses “encoders” in different ways, talking both about settings for FF encoder strength curves, and again in talking about four different encoders.
The first one made sense to me, as I know an encoder is a circuit that interprets FF commands and converts it into instructions to the FF motors. The second I thought meant the wheel had four different encoder units that would change the feel ( not just the strength ) of the various FF effects.
After much searching on YouTube and Reddit, they’re just four different profiles for programmable buttons. Some PC games have native presets specifically for the T248, making configuration for the game easier.
Other games will require you to manually map the various axes and buttons to the controls. Some people have reported problems with some game compatibility ( often Forza Horizon 4 ), but I haven’t seen any in the few games I’ve tried, including FH4.
I did immediately upgrade to firmware 2. 0 after getting the wheel, so perhaps that solves some of the earlier issues. However, just because a game supports the wheel doesn’t mean it supports the wheel’s display ( the Thrustmaster site has a list ).
On PlayStation 4, compatibility is rather limited. The PS4 itself will recognize the T248 as a controller and you can use it normally in the main system menu to select and launch your games. As on PC, Thrustmaster lists games that support the controller, and a subset of those games that also support the wheel display.
I tried it with DiRT 2. 0 and had no problems. Sadly, the T248 doesn’t work with any game not on Thrustmaster’s list ( at least the ones I’ve tried ). I don’t mean you don’t get FF effects, other games don’t recognize it AT ALL.
I was hoping for some kind of generic control mapping, like the steering wheel mapped to the left thumbstick, throttle to R2, brake to L2, etc, with no FF effects, but at least normal wheel centering.
But not even the steering wheel face buttons will work when in a non-supported game. I understand the wheel is mainly meant for in-depth simulation racers, but it’d be nice if it could also work with more casual games like Burnout Paradise, Wipeout, even Horizon Chase.
Gaming performance and FF fidelity largely depends on the game you’re playing. On Forza Horizon 4 on PC, I had no problem. Some minor tweaks and most things felt right, if a bit squirrelly. Also keep in mind on PC it will be a combination of how you configured the device in its own control panel and the game’s own settings.
In DiRT 2. 0 on PS4, it felt very rough and stiff. Even after lowering the FF settings in game, I still felt I was wrestling the wheel the entire time. It’s good to know the wheel’s drive is strong enough to do that, bad that games specifically meant to support it don’t have better default configurations for it.
As to whether I’d recommend this to someone else is very situational. For someone looking for a fun peripheral for living room gaming, absolutely not. The cost of the T248 itself is almost as much as the gaming console you’re playing on.
The supplied USB cable is rather short, only 2m, so reaching from your TV to a chair or couch is iffy ( at this price I don’t know why there isn’t a wireless option ). Add in the cost for some kind of basic frame and mount and that’s a lot of money.
Such a frame also makes it a semi-permanent fixture in a room, not something you can easily pull out of the closet when you want to do some racing. And considering the limited compatibility for console racing games, I can’t see that being worth it.
For someone looking to get into more dedicated sim racing on PC, it’s a different matter. The wheel can mount well enough to most computer desks and it wouldn’t be difficult to frame up a simple brace to secure the pedals to the floor or desk legs.
Compatibility and flexibility on PC is much better than console, so you can use it on many more games. Its current price is fair, but if Thrustmaster dropped it by $50 ( or if you can find it on sale ) it’s much more compelling.
If you’re already deep into sim racing and you’re considering a dedicated racing setup, I would say the T248 might not be enough. Even a basic cockpit setup, including the cockpit frame, wheel, shifter, pedals, and other accessories is going to run you $600ish or more.
If you’re already spending that much, rather than buying a T248 now and then spending more to upgrade shortly down the road, you might be better off paying a little more upfront for a more premium wheel, one that’s larger and features a quick-disconnect.